Time For Pcv Service?

[jdlc]

As stated, this is for non-turbo motor. The car is a keeper.

I have 111k+ and a few months shy of ten years, no RMS leak, no cam seals leak, no excessive oil use (no more than 1/2 qt between oil-change @ 4k interval using Mobil1 since new), replace/clean oil trap regularly, including the housing and never let it clog.

Should I go ahead and service the PCV system? (Funny thing is, FCP has it as PVC in their website, re "Oil Trap/Breather System/PVC Non Turbo Models 98-2000").

I'm thinking this is a worthwhile endeavor to prevent RMS leak, am I correct? Any performance/MPG improvement to be gained as well?

I want your expert opinions guys, so keep 'em coming.

Thanks

- OrleeC

[7 VII 7]

You should do a PCV anyways with 100K+

I did this on my car.. and it soo much easier to do with the fan shourd out.... (2 T25 torx, 2 8mm bolts) and then electrical connections... it is an easy job, I thought.... You can get the full kit from FCP... but the intake gasket is pure crap... go to a dealership and buy the intake gasket.. its under $20. if you do not have access to a dealership the gasket will be fine.

if you need help with your NA give me a PM

it will help keep the RMS healthy... and you might see a MPG increase

I get 18mpg around city and hwy driving.. is that bad?

[Fudge_Brownie]

I get 18mpg around city and hwy driving.. is that bad?

Depends. Do you drive like a dumbass? If you're tryin hard, then sounds not so great. I get ~23mpg mixed highway and backroads (but I am trying to get the best gas mileage possible, driving like grandma)

[jdlc]

Thanks for the reply Dave.

Yeah, I think 18mpg is not optimal. We do at least 20 city/hwy, and we do a lot of city drive that are really short (under 3mi) to send and pick-up kids to school and such. Whenever the drive is mostly hwy, we get 23-24. And my wife is not exactly light-footed.

Anyway, thanks for the tip about fan shroud, anything that can help to make this as easy as possible is appreciated.

What surprises me is that it seems this PCV job does not involve the flame trap based on the pix from FCP groton, is that correct? I know all along that the pcv valve is the flame trap, this is the first thing I learned in my car because I was trying to buy one long ago and the counter guy was giving me the trap, totally unfamiliar to me because all other car I owned before have the 'conventional' pcv valve.

I just read the pinned thread and the guy just cleaned the trap and the 'main' hose, the two most expensive parts for the project - any reason I just order them? Do they deteriorate?

I know I'm going to get flamed for cheaping-out, but I'm over-budget already for my planned maintenance (did full suspension if you recall my thread in the last few days) and will need a new set of tires, at the very least.

And yes, I might take you on your offer if I run into problem doing this.

- OrleeC

You should do a PCV anyways with 100K+

I did this on my car.. and it soo much easier to do with the fan shourd out.... (2 T25 torx, 2 8mm bolts) and then electrical connections... it is an easy job, I thought.... You can get the full kit from FCP... but the intake gasket is pure crap... go to a dealership and buy the intake gasket.. its under $20. if you do not have access to a dealership the gasket will be fine.

if you need help with your NA give me a PM

it will help keep the RMS healthy... and you might see a MPG increase

I get 18mpg around city and hwy driving.. is that bad?

[7 VII 7]

Thanks for the reply Dave.

Yeah, I think 18mpg is not optimal. We do at least 20 city/hwy, and we do a lot of city drive that are really short (under 3mi) to send and pick-up kids to school and such. Whenever the drive is mostly hwy, we get 23-24. And my wife is not exactly light-footed.

Anyway, thanks for the tip about fan shroud, anything that can help to make this as easy as possible is appreciated.

What surprises me is that it seems this PCV job does not involve the flame trap based on the pix from FCP groton, is that correct? I know all along that the pcv valve is the flame trap, this is the first thing I learned in my car because I was trying to buy one long ago and the counter guy was giving me the trap, totally unfamiliar to me because all other car I owned before have the 'conventional' pcv valve.

I just read the pinned thread and the guy just cleaned the trap and the 'main' hose, the two most expensive parts for the project - any reason I just order them? Do they deteriorate?

I know I'm going to get flamed for cheaping-out, but I'm over-budget already for my planned maintenance (did full suspension if you recall my thread in the last few days) and will need a new set of tires, at the very least.

And yes, I might take you on your offer if I run into problem doing this.

- OrleeC

The flame trap is included in the KIT from FCP

GET THE KIT AND THE WHOLE KIT!! do not ask about that anymore (they do deteriorate)

I left out the screen in the flame trap... it will only get clogged

[jdlc]

Alright, I hear you man.

When I think about it, 3-6 hours job merits brand new parts.

I'll get the kit, the whole kit, and nothing but the kit!

The flame trap is included in the KIT from FCP

GET THE KIT AND THE WHOLE KIT!! do not ask about that anymore (they do deteriorate)

I left out the screen in the flame trap... it will only get clogged

[skazzunk]

You should do a PCV anyways with 100K+

I did this on my car.. and it soo much easier to do with the fan shourd out.... (2 T25 torx, 2 8mm bolts) and then electrical connections... it is an easy job, I thought.... You can get the full kit from FCP... but the intake gasket is pure crap... go to a dealership and buy the intake gasket.. its under $20. if you do not have access to a dealership the gasket will be fine.

Why is the gasket given by FCP crap? I used that one, any reason for me to immediately replace it?

As stated, with over 100k, you SHOULD do it. Another thing to check is under the spark plug cover... see if any oil leaked in there from the PCV hose or the filler cap.

[7 VII 7]

Why is the gasket given by FCP crap? I used that one, any reason for me to immediately replace it?

As stated, with over 100k, you SHOULD do it. Another thing to check is under the spark plug cover... see if any oil leaked in there from the PCV hose or the filler cap.

I do not think there is anything wrong with the FCP gasket... but a couple people on here said to get the OEM one from the dealership which I did.... it is more durable and a bit thicker (and green) there is no reason to replace it if you already have it on... but OEM is better i think?

[jdlc]

Is the illustration from FCP Groton helpful? Also, I notice how it doesn't include the flame trap housing, o-ring, and the plastic screen as you call it. But if they in fact throw it in the kit, that's cool. I have encountered Bay13(?) column about the matter, and it said to put screen if the car came with it, so I always re-install one whenever I do flame trap. They do clog, which is why it requires attention once in a while.

The flame trap is included in the KIT from FCP

GET THE KIT AND THE WHOLE KIT!! do not ask about that anymore (they do deteriorate)

I left out the screen in the flame trap... it will only get clogged

[skazzunk]

I do not think there is anything wrong with the FCP gasket... but a couple people on here said to get the OEM one from the dealership which I did.... it is more durable and a bit thicker (and green) there is no reason to replace it if you already have it on... but OEM is better i think?

Yea, true, OEM is probably better. However, the last gasket that was on the manifold was at least a few thousand miles ago, looked the same as the FCP one I put on, but it looked untouched. However; I have no idea how old it is.

But your right, dealer parts are trustworthy, but usually you're paying extra for that quality assurance.

[jdlc]

FCP Groton provides oem Intake Manifold Gasket (9146266), so why should this be an issue?

Yea, true, OEM is probably better. However, the last gasket that was on the manifold was at least a few thousand miles ago, looked the same as the FCP one I put on, but it looked untouched. However; I have no idea how old it is.

But your right, dealer parts are trustworthy, but usually you're paying extra for that quality assurance.

[7 VII 7]

FCP Groton provides oem Intake Manifold Gasket (9146266), so why should this be an issue?

the one they put in there was a black gasket... the one I bought from the dealership was green and a little less flexable than the FCP "OEM" one.

[jdlc]

Hey Dave,

Couple of questions for you.

1. What mileage did you start leaking the RMS?

2. Were you regularly servicing your flame trap in the 7 years or so you have the car prior to the leak?

3. Are you using synth oil all this time?

There is this guy in the forum who starts to have RMS leak @ 137k, and was surprised because he service his flame-trap/PCV regularly (12k/12 months). He didn't mention about synth oil use.

So at 111k (I think about 112k now), I will do mine, hopefully will prevent my RMS to leak for a long time.

For a while, I toyed with the idea that since I use synth from the beginning and regularly service my PCV/flame-trap, that I'm good and can skip the hassle of PCV job for a while (too much horror stories can be found here for people who tried doing it - well, will try to learn from their mistakes).

Which brings me to rest of my questions below:

4. How many regular hose clamp did you need and what size (to replace the funky Volvo clamp).

5. I don't really need to time this just before oil-change, right? If I should clean the intake 'holes' after removing the manifold, the debris will not go in the crank-case, I suppose. I just changed my oil.

I will prep for the job and will get:

1. tile cutter for Volvo clamps

2. Volvo intake gasket

3. Get dip-stick o-ring/gasket while I'm at the dealership just in case I need it

Anything you can add?

[7 VII 7]

Hey Dave,

Couple of questions for you.

1. What mileage did you start leaking the RMS? (165k-ish?)

2. Were you regularly servicing your flame trap in the 7 years or so you have the car prior to the leak? (I serviced every 20k miles *cleaned out and took off the intake and cleaned the screen out*)

3. Are you using synth oil all this time? (I have always used Eurpoean 0w20ish Full Syn.. but now with the RMS i switched to 10w30 High Mileage Mobil 1)

Which brings me to rest of my questions below:

4. How many regular hose clamp did you need and what size (to replace the funky Volvo clamp). (Go here and count.. it even gives you the size in the table to the mm, then I went to AdvaceAutoParts and asked for those sizes for HOSE clamps.. and thats what I got... they use a flat head screw-driver.. the VOLVO clamps you need another tool to close/tighten the clamps)

5. I don't really need to time this just before oil-change, right? If I should clean the intake 'holes' after removing the manifold, the debris will not go in the crank-case, I suppose. I just changed my oil. (you do not have to do this right before an oil change and you do not have to have the oil drained out of the car, but let it sit over night just to be safe... when you clean the holes pull the debre out of the block and make sure it clean with carb-cleaner.. that should be it)

I will prep for the job and will get:

1. tile cutter for Volvo clamps (not needed if you get the clamps from AdvanceAutoParts)

2. Volvo intake gasket (yes from the dealership under $20 and look into ordering a THROTTLE BODY GASKET from FCP or wherever you get the parts from... this is a good thing to get also)

3. Get dip-stick o-ring/gasket while I'm at the dealership just in case I need it (eh, you do not have to.. but you can get it from FCP also, I did not need any mine were fine after 172k miles.... and if the dipstick tube falls out of the block.. that is fine.. it can do it easily it is held into the block by the bolt into the manifold *I freaked out about this one*)

Anything you can add?

and take the fan shroud out.. it makes everything 100% more easier to do... also when you undo any bolts to take apart the throttle body or even the vacuum tree screw the bolts back in so you do not loose track of them.... like I said get the Intake Gasket from the Dealer... and get the THrottle body gasket from FCP or wherever you order your PCV system replacement.

HOPE THIS HELPS!!

[jdlc]

Thanks man, that helps a lot.

and take the fan shroud out.. it makes everything 100% more easier to do... also when you undo any bolts to take apart the throttle body or even the vacuum tree screw the bolts back in so you do not loose track of them.... like I said get the Intake Gasket from the Dealer... and get the THrottle body gasket from FCP or wherever you order your PCV system replacement.

HOPE THIS HELPS!!