AGBullit235 Posted August 13, 2007 Report Share Posted August 13, 2007 Okay, I've done allot of searching and I need some help. I can't seem to find a post that has my situation.My 1999 V70 R has a long cranking issue pretty much ONLY when the engine has been on already or warm. When it has sat all night it usually starts up fine when cold. It also doesn't always like to start right away when the tank is low or completely full.The dealer says its my fuel check valve in the fuel pump, and that this valve isn't keeping pressure in the lines when sitting. But if that were the case wouldn't do it if the car has been sitting for a while? My other car needs a check valve and it cranks for a while if its been sitting, and starts right away if it was just running a minute ago. (not my volvo)I put in a brand new fuel pump relay today, and the same thing. I can hear the pump prime in position II.I've seen the suggestions that it may be the ECT.. but wouldn't that also affect idle speed, etc? The car runs fine, no hiccups, just the long crank time.O2 sensors are old I believe, new Cat a year ago. It has direct ignition, so no cap and rotor.Any ideas? Thanks guys in advance, I appreciate it.1999 Volvo V70 R 144,000 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
starfish Posted August 14, 2007 Report Share Posted August 14, 2007 Okay, I've done allot of searching and I need some help. I can't seem to find a post that has my situation.My 1999 V70 R has a long cranking issue...The dealer says its my fuel check valve in the fuel pump, and that this valve isn't keeping pressure in the lines when sitting. I put in a brand new fuel pump relay today, and the same thing. I can hear the pump prime in position II.Any ideas? Thanks guys in advance, I appreciate it.1999 Volvo V70 R 144,000If there is a long cranking time and the dealer tested he fuel pressure and told you IT IS NOT MAINTAING PRESSURE AND IS BLEEDING BACK INTO THE GAS TANK WHILST THE ENGINE IS OFF, why did you replace the fuel pump relay? I don't think that was the part that was recommended to be replaced?An 8 year old car with 144,000 miles surely might need a fuel pump AND filter to fix this problem.Good luck! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AGBullit235 Posted August 14, 2007 Author Report Share Posted August 14, 2007 If there is a long cranking time and the dealer tested he fuel pressure and told you IT IS NOT MAINTAING PRESSURE AND IS BLEEDING BACK INTO THE GAS TANK WHILST THE ENGINE IS OFF, why did you replace the fuel pump relay? I don't think that was the part that was recommended to be replaced?An 8 year old car with 144,000 miles surely might need a fuel pump AND filter to fix this problem.Good luck! Not sure where you got that but ok. They said it is most likely the fuel line check valve, but it is inconsistant with the usual symptoms that I've encountered with that diagnosis. Not saying it isn't it but it leaves doubt.Why did I replace the relay? Before I couldn't always hear the pump turn on, so I figured it was worth the $85 bucks to spot for a new relay if it saves me the arm and the leg of the fuel pump. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrWinkey Posted August 15, 2007 Report Share Posted August 15, 2007 Clean the ETM...also possibly a FPR(fuel pressure regulator) . Your assumption is correct on the check valve IMO ...You only have a hot restart issue not cold start. So if the car sat overnight you would lose all your residual pressure resulting in a long crank cold as well(actually longer) The FPR is a very common issue on the 40 series and your vehicle has the same symptoms. However it is not a common issue with your model and I personally have never replaced one? When it does finally start is it a rough start like it's fat(rich) if so once again FPR. It is not located on the rail though. It's midway between the tank and rail. It very well could be a dirty ETM though. Just my thoughts and perhaps this may help . ;) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AGBullit235 Posted August 15, 2007 Author Report Share Posted August 15, 2007 Clean the ETM...also possibly a FPR(fuel pressure regulator) . Your assumption is correct on the check valve IMO ...You only have a hot restart issue not cold start. So if the car sat overnight you would lose all your residual pressure resulting in a long crank cold as well(actually longer) The FPR is a very common issue on the 40 series and your vehicle has the same symptoms. However it is not a common issue with your model and I personally have never replaced one? When it does finally start is it a rough start like it's fat(rich) if so once again FPR. It is not located on the rail though. It's midway between the tank and rail. It very well could be a dirty ETM though. Just my thoughts and perhaps this may help . Thanks so much on the input. I'll have the ETM cleaned, although it was replaced very recently. I know when it cranks for a while it almost catches a few times before firing up. I'll look into replacing the FPR, I'm crossing my fingers that is it! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrWinkey Posted August 15, 2007 Report Share Posted August 15, 2007 Simply a guess? But the theory is all there? ;) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
starfish Posted August 15, 2007 Report Share Posted August 15, 2007 Not sure where you got that but ok. They said it is most likely the fuel line check valve, but it is inconsistant with the usual symptoms that I've encountered with that diagnosis. Not saying it isn't it but it leaves doubt.Why did I replace the relay? Before I couldn't always hear the pump turn on, so I figured it was worth the $85 bucks to spot for a new relay if it saves me the arm and the leg of the fuel pump.You were the one that said that the fuel line check valve in the fuel pump isn't keeping pressure in the line when the vehicle is sitting. I asked why would you replace everything BUT what was told to you to be the bad part. When trying to save an arm and a leg as you put it, you generously are giving up a left testicle too! The check valve comes free with the fuel pump is all I was getting at. Replacing relays, engine sensors, secondary ignition system components would not be what I would replace first knowing that I had a known fuel pressure problem. Clear as mud? B) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AGBullit235 Posted August 15, 2007 Author Report Share Posted August 15, 2007 You were the one that said that the fuel line check valve in the fuel pump isn't keeping pressure in the line when the vehicle is sitting. I asked why would you replace everything BUT what was told to you to be the bad part. When trying to save an arm and a leg as you put it, you generously are giving up a left testicle too! The check valve comes free with the fuel pump is all I was getting at. Replacing relays, engine sensors, secondary ignition system components would not be what I would replace first knowing that I had a known fuel pressure problem. Clear as mud? I may be old fashioned, but I like the the T's to line up ona a diagnosis that is expensive. I've worked on older euros, granted they are older and different, and had to replace the check valve and the symptoms were always consistant. I've been given a wrong diagnosis by a dealer before, not saying it isn't right, but I'd rather spend a little before I spend allot. To be honest, it just doesn't make sense.It should crank for a while when its been sitting, but starts right up. Also.. if the car has been running, I shut it off, then restart.. it cranks for a very long time. Not enough time for the pressure to drop IMO, but it could be the valve, ya never know.I've heard the ETC can cause issues with starting, I'm tempted to have it replaces as I have no idea when it was last changed. Again like you are saying.. those parts add up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AGBullit235 Posted August 16, 2007 Author Report Share Posted August 16, 2007 Found out today that on the 1999-2000 V70 AWD Turbos.. no FPR, just an fuel "absorber" on the fuel rail. I noticed that FCP and Eeuroparts has an FPR listed for the '99 and 2000, same p/n as the 850. And the search continues! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pauloil Posted August 16, 2007 Report Share Posted August 16, 2007 i've had this check valve problem for some time, 99 V70xcwhat i do is turn the key to pos.II and wait, and maybe do this again on very hot daythis pressurizes the line and the car starts betterin my owner's manuel it say it is normal to take 10 sec. to start the turbo motor!i put up with this because the pump is $800 on this car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AGBullit235 Posted August 16, 2007 Author Report Share Posted August 16, 2007 i've had this check valve problem for some time, 99 V70xcwhat i do is turn the key to pos.II and wait, and maybe do this again on very hot daythis pressurizes the line and the car starts betterin my owner's manuel it say it is normal to take 10 sec. to start the turbo motor!i put up with this because the pump is $800 on this car.I know its PITA isn't it? I put it in Position II each time, like starting a diesel. The pump primes and everything.. but still doesn't start well when hot. No problem when cold though, I usually don't even have to put it into pos II. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caliwagon Posted August 16, 2007 Report Share Posted August 16, 2007 Alex, I have some more thoughts on this. Tried calling you today, but I was pretty swamped anyway. Maybe I'll catch you tomorrow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
starfish Posted August 16, 2007 Report Share Posted August 16, 2007 I may be old fashioned, but I like the the T's to line up ona a diagnosis that is expensive. I've worked on older euros, granted they are older and different, and had to replace the check valve and the symptoms were always consistant. I've been given a wrong diagnosis by a dealer before, not saying it isn't right, but I'd rather spend a little before I spend allot. To be honest, it just doesn't make sense.I've heard the ETC can cause issues with starting, I'm tempted to have it replaces as I have no idea when it was last changed. Again like you are saying.. those parts add up.I understand now, you have a mistrust that needs to be verified, or maybe you just have a Missouri heritage?Do you have any tools?Do you own a fuel pressure guage or an electrical multitester? If so, you can verify whether or not it is a fuel related problem.On a FI engine the ETC sensor simulates a choke like what is found on a carbureated engine. You would need that volt/ohm meter to monitor it, Is the coolant bottle low? The ETC will not read air temperature if the engine is low on coolant. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AGBullit235 Posted August 16, 2007 Author Report Share Posted August 16, 2007 Alex, I have some more thoughts on this. Tried calling you today, but I was pretty swamped anyway. Maybe I'll catch you tomorrow.Cool John. I might be pretty swamped today, so if I miss your call I'll get back to you when I can. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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