Rear Sway Bar 850/x70

[jdlc]

My 98 V70 NA has rear sway-bar.

Surprised my 94 850 Turbo Wagon does not have it.

When did it become standard equipment?

Could it be that my 94 had it and somehow removed by previous owner? I noticed that there is very little room under the car right now for it because of installed muffler that comes with dual exhaust.

Any response appreciated it.

Thanks

OrleeC

[prasamin]

it came on the R's, and then 98 and up.

[jdlc]

Okay, belated thanks Prasamin

Is there a difference between rear sway bar from non-awd x70 98 and up and the 850-R sway bar?

Done with all issues with my 94 855T 'project' and will now rehabilitate the suspension some.

IPD would be nice, will give them a call to see how much they would want for rear only. Used stock ones only cost around $35-40 +shipping, so I'm leaning towards stock rear sway-bar 'upgrade' (since my 94 didn't come with one at all), with Bilstein HD on rears already installed.

No funky sounds from front, so I'll leave it alone for now and instead get a chip for ECU to do 18psi boost (yeah baby!).

it came on the R's, and then 98 and up.

[NyteMusic]

I wouldn't recommend doing the rear only, if you are upgrading to the larger ipd bar(s).

Stockers are easy to find, and cheap.

Chips are fun, but remember the rule: handling and braking first, then power.

(the good news is you don't nec have to upgrade the brakes on an 850, just make sure they are in good working order)

It's also a good idea to make sure you are at stage zero first (before chipping).

I know, I know... patience sucks!

:D

[jdlc]

I wouldn't recommend doing the rear only, if you are upgrading to the larger ipd bar(s).

Stockers are easy to find, and cheap.

Chips are fun, but remember the rule: handling and braking first, then power.

(the good news is you don't nec have to upgrade the brakes on an 850, just make sure they are in good working order)

It's also a good idea to make sure you are at stage zero first (before chipping).

I know, I know... patience sucks!

Hey thanks for the tips.

I'm at stage 0, alright - probably went over and beyond that lol (drop pan to get rid of craps in there & change o-rings while in there, anyone?) Aside from the basics - fuel filter, plugs, rotors, cap, wire, ATF flush w/ Mobil1, also did Seafoam, PCV service including TB and EGR, vacuum hoses & intercooler piping (tightened, checked & replace when necessary), Volvo coolant change w/ new hoses & new CTS & thermostat with new improved t-stat housing bolts to boot , and also replaced the leaky waterpump and replaced the idler & tension pulley, as well as front cam seals while in there. Managed to control the leaks on driver side by replacing exhaust rear cam, as well as reseating the driver-side axle seal. On top of all that, I also replaced the control arms, the top engine torque mount and the front lower engine mount, as well as the passenger side-axle w/ busted inner boot (driver-side axle have been recently replaced). This baby is just about ready to rock!

The only thing I haven't done is to get drop-in K & N filter (don't intend to install CAI) and clean the MAF but the latter looks ok (and it looks newer than the car itself, probably replaced before), as well as intercooler cleaning although the reversed intercooler pipes are not oily at all, specially the one that goes on top of the engine. It would be good to replace the lower torque mount (tranny mount) as well.

The brakes are still decent, but due for front pads. I have a bottle of Super-blue, will probably flush the brake fluid when I change the front pads. Don't intend to upgrade to bigger front rotor since I have a set of 15" Antlia fitted with Mich snow tires, I believe 305mm will not fit in there. Although said snow wheels & tires are for my wife's V70, you never know when I will use it.

I heard differently about rear IPD sway bar, some suggest to do just that, and not to bother with front for balanced handling and comfort (this car is not intended for tracks, just a street car). Why do you say otherwise?

[Big Will]

Sounds like you've done a lot of tune-up items!

The reason for upgrading both bars is because if you get a larger rear bar only, you will increase the possibility of oversteer. When you upgrade the front bar as well the car will be in better balance. I guess it's just whatever you are going for. Volvos are known to understeer, partly for safety reasons.

[NyteMusic]

No arguing, just questioning...

I thought it was the other way around, and that stiffening up the rear only takes some understeer out, maybe even making it a bit tail-happy.

iirc - the track guys like this, but it may not be as good / as safe for the street.

Again, I could be dealing with a faulty memory-chip here (it's a bit old... )

[Big Will]

I don't think we're in disagreement here. Making the car "tail-happy" would be leaning toward the tendency to oversteer. I have not had much experience with cars that tend to oversteer. I suppose some of the older BMWs that I've driven did, but they were such pleasures to drive. Again, I think it comes down to preference. As long as you are ready for what your car will do, oversteer is perhaps preferable/more fun.

[jdlc]

Thanks guys, what you're saying is consistent with what I've been hearing, and in addition to 'curing' the understeer tendency of 850's, stiffining the rears apparently greatly improve cornering by reducing body roll (wagons are a$$ heavy vehicles after all). I guess the fact that non-R 850's doesn't have rear sway bar at all contribute to this 'known' Volvo understeer as mentioned. Our V70 came standard with rear sway-bar, and coupled with lower profile wheels (used to have 17's), I am used to none-or-less understeer handling of our V70. Our V70 has 16" now and she handles pretty well with Bilstein TC/HD fr/rr with stock sway bars and stock springs.

[erikv11]

Is there a difference between rear sway bar from non-awd x70 98 and up and the 850-R sway bar?

Volvo mixed and matched the bars a lot. The best way to tell what a bar is, is by the paint splotches on it:

front sway bar part #s:

9173982 O.Dia 20 mm (marked red)

9173983 O.Dia 21 mm (marked yellow)

9173471 O.Dia 21.5 mm (marked yellow/blue)

rear sway bar part #s, probable O.Diameter:

9191459 (marked green) 19.5 mm

9191461 (marked yellow) 20 mm

9191462 (marked blue) 20.8 mm

9191494 (marked black) 21 mm

Here is a pinned thread with lots of sway bar info

[jdlc]

Pinned

Thanks a lot erikv11.

Volvo mixed and matched the bars a lot. The best way to tell what a bar is, is by the paint splotches on it:

front sway bar part #s:

9173982 O.Dia 20 mm (marked red)

9173983 O.Dia 21 mm (marked yellow)

9173471 O.Dia 21.5 mm (marked yellow/blue)

rear sway bar part #s, probable O.Diameter:

9191459 (marked green) 19.5 mm

9191461 (marked yellow) 20 mm

9191462 (marked blue) 20.8 mm

9191494 (marked black) 21 mm

Here is a pinned thread with lots of sway bar info

[jdlc]

UPDATE:

Checked with ipd , rear only is only $175, part #6B7807R4. I said only because the set is $395, which means front is $220. Of course, it comes with lifetime warranty. Will wait for their free shipping offer and hopefully, everything else have been taken care of with the 94 by then and I'm not broke yet What this means is that for less than $140 (used stocks sells for $35+ + shipping), I will have ipd rears for the life of my cars!