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The Haynes step-by-step for intake manifold removal and installation is excellent and covers most of the disassembly for the PCV job, except the oil trap and hoses themselves. Basically you follow the IM removal instructions (your choice on removing the fuel rail though), then the oil trap system is staring you in the face. Replace those parts, clean out the passages in the block, follow the reinstall instructions for the IM.

While you don't have to remove the throttle body either, this may be a great opportunity to take it off, remove the TPS and clean out the TB. You're in there anyway.

If you don't have a Haynes you can PM me, I have an image of the IM pages on my computer.

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I just did mine this past weekend (93 850 GLT) and found the following post. You have to translate pieces of it from BRenglish but it was nice to have some instructions with the pictures.

http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.p...highlight=boost

I followed the Haynes manual for most of it, and I did the sandwich baggy/black marker thing... every time you remove bolts from a particular component, number the bag and write the component on it. I had 5 bags, and everything went back together easily... one broken vaccuum hose.

Why wouldn't you want to pull the throttle body off?... No, you don't have to, but the gasket was $4 and 4 bolts, and I was surprised at the buildup on the back side of the flap. I regularly use a throttle body cleaner but it doesn't get to the back side nor the passage. I was ultimately able to run a couple of cans through the whole thing, cleaning the (can't remember exactly what its called... )cold air flap inside the manifold and the fuel injector ports.

Take the radiator fan off... easy to do and makes a big difference in working space. Two T-25's up top must be removed, the bottom ones only loosened. Access the bottoms from underneath to save your knuckles.

That far left 10mm bolt on the manifold was a PITFA. I located a flex-shaft extension in 1/4 drive at a tool shop (Princess Auto)(basically a reinforced piece of metal cable so it's flexible). This worked awesome. I had a 3/8 drive swivel socket and a regular socket with a swivel extender, neither of which would fit. I could not find a tool shop in town that sold the recommended 1/4 drive swivel socket. I could not have reached this bolt without the flex-shaft. I had to pry up on the radiator hose but did not have to take it off.

Fuel rail can stay attached, but undo the T25 on the top of the engine and the 10mm on the back side of the engine which holds the metal fuel lines in place, and then just move the fuel rail up on top of the valve cover. You may want to consider for $18 replacing the 5 rubber o-rings holding the fuel injectors into the manifold... I just did it because I was in there anyway.

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Why wouldn't you want to pull the throttle body off?... No, you don't have to, but the gasket was $4 and 4 bolts, and I was surprised at the buildup on the back side of the flap.

Depends. I had a NA version before and the oil from the PCV really gums up the throttle body but I've noticed the turbo versions are much cleaner. I guess the intercooler also makes a great oil separator. :lol:

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Don't forget to clean/unclog the PTC nipple, and if yours still has metal tubing on top of the engine under the plastic cover, check to see if it's clogged.

Recent thread about these: http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/index.php?showtopic=83544

Is there a writeup for PCV replacement anywhere? I've seen lax01's pics, but can't find an actual write up.

Thanks

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Is there any way to get the bolt connected to the dipstick off without jacking the car up?

I just did the job this past Sunday. I have small hands and could have reached around and unscrewed the bolt from topside using a box wrench but it was tight and awkward! It would have taken me forever at about a 1/4 turn at a time with delays for dropped tools and cramps in my arms. It took me a fraction of the time just going in from underneath with the extensions on the socket......no scuffs, cramps or swears!

Good Luck!

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