Front Cam Seals

[jdlc]

Hey guys, I personally had a failed rear exhaust cam seal that caused leak at the back of the engine which I have since addressed in my 94 855T wagon. Noticed that the rubber of the seal replaced have already hardened and showed signs of wear at 162k+. I'm thinking, the front seals are no better than that one.

Wouldn't it be a good idea to replace the front cam seals when I do my leaky waterpump?

It's a shame the Volvo waterpump failed already when it looks 'new' and probably replaced about 42k/3 years ago judging from it's still 'shiny' appearance. I have records showing t-belt was done twice already for this car but it's unlikely it was replaced in the firs t-belt service based on its look. In fact, even the tensioner looks newer, compared to the visual condition of the one installed in our 98 V70 NA w/ 113k. I only had the belt changed at 70k on the V70, so everything else is still factory as far as t-belt 'accessories' are concerned, so I have good visual reference. Also noticed that the leaky Volvo pump in the 94 has full teeth as opposet to what is currently installed on our V70 which has missing teeth, similar to the Bay 13 picture in the t-belt write-up. I'm assuming factory waterpump have the missing teeth, Volvo replacement have full-teeth but I guess I could be wrong on that one.

Btw, I'm 100% sure the coolant leak is from the waterpump, thermostat housing and expansion tank have no leaks, and the coolant leak is in the timing-belt cover area directly below the waterpump. Is it wishful thinking to hope it's just the waterpump gasket?

Also, is it necessary to make the DIY cam-lock tool that installs at the back of the engine? Or can it be done without locking the cams. IPD cam-lock would not be useful since I will be removing the sprockets of the cams to access the front seals (I was told before that like the rear cam seals, front cam seals can be taken out without removing the cam cover, pls let me know if this is not true).

Hoping for inputs fro those who did t-belts, or better still, for those who have replaced front cam-seals.

Thanks

- OrleeC

[Ozark Lee]

Changing the seals is a snap. Timing the cam back is a prick. Take a can of spray paint and mark the intake and exhaust cams where they are before you even pick up the socket set so that you can get the cam timing at least close. If you paint the front of the cam sprockets you can see the lines when you are done.

...Lee

[pfeener]

The cam locking tool is not necessary and if you carefully mark the cam pulleys before you remove them, getting them back in the same place is not a problem.

[troyhyde]

Agree, the cam seals are not difficult to replace when doing a T-belt or water pump. Its best to loosen the bolts slightly for the cam pulleys prior to removing the T-belt.

Note, I would suggest removing both pulleys, pulling one seal at a time, and visually using the other cams "original" seat location of the seal to index the other. If I remember right, there is a pinhole at the top of the camshaft housing/bearing where the oil enters, and a slot at the bottom where it exits. This pinhole at the top can easily become gunked up restricting oil flow to the seal. Might want to run a piece of wire through it or spray it with some carb cleaner. This will ensure trouble free life for the new seal.

You can use the old seal against the new seal to hammer it in evenly. You'll need a little hammer as clearance is small.

[jdlc]

Thanks for the tips.

I couldn't access one of the bolts of the waterpump and ended up removing the tensioner pulley. To give me more room, I also removed the serp tensioner, then used an L-shaped 45 Torx to remove the t-belt tensioner pulley, with the aid of a small pipe as cheater bar. The torx which caused much pain on others was indeed tight, but with all the space I have and proper tool, I was able to take it out without rounding the torx off (whew, thanks heavens). The 3-quarter and vise-grip tool worked like a charm in springing-up the serp tensioner which I have secured/locked using a small allenwrench.

I now have the waterpump out, and it is indeed a replacement part (Aisin-Volvo), not the original one that came with the car, because it's fairly new, same thing with the Aisin tensioner. And it's leaky, not from the gasket but from the impeller bearing thru the weep hole. So much for original Volvo parts longevity . I will just replace it with the Hepu waterpump and throw in new tensioner pulley and idler pulley which both look original from factory, and already with little plays.

Drove to fcp in Groton, CT but didn't make it in time because of traffic, will get my parts tomorrow, I believe they will be open until 2:00pm.

With the passenger fenderwell open, I noticed that the front engine mount is totally FUBAR, so will replace that as well.

Man, with all the work I put in this car, it would be hard to let go of this - PCV/pan-drop & o-ring replacement/t-belt et al including cam seals/control arms/pass-side axle - these are major $h!+. Nevermind stage 0 which I did as well - ignition wire, seafoam, fuel filter, ATF flush with Mobil1, and of course coolant flush because of the waterpump removal which would also include coolant hose replacement (have the parts already), with the thermostat and CTS earlier replaced (plugs/cap/rotor by prev owner recently). Already have Bilstein HD for rears, Bilstein TC in front will be next, as well as rear stabilizer bar. Keeping an eye for used IPD stabilizer bars, as well as good front strut brace (that would be nice ). As soon as she's up again, will settle for 14psi boost w/ stock ecu untill a good deal on chipped ecu comes around (somebody beat me on a $300 ecu applicable to my 94 the other day ). Will just settle for K&N dop-filter as this is good enough for my 18psi goal as I was told, and contemplating on removing the rip-kit and do the Samco with original piping since I have the original metal intercooler piping. Sorry if I got carried away, but I'm excited already, this will be one fun ride - will have her up and running (and registered) before winter.

BTW, I still feel that the ride and handling on the 850 is not as tight as our V70 - I know I have rear stabilizer bar & Bilstein TC struts on the V70 (stock), but like I said before, even before I 'overhauled' the suspension of our V70, she was tight and solid - the 850 is mushy and just not solid. Are there frame rigidity differences on 94 850 wagon and 98 V70, was the latter improved somewhat?

Agree, the cam seals are not difficult to replace when doing a T-belt or water pump. Its best to loosen the bolts slightly for the cam pulleys prior to removing the T-belt.

Note, I would suggest removing both pulleys, pulling one seal at a time, and visually using the other cams "original" seat location of the seal to index the other. If I remember right, there is a pinhole at the top of the camshaft housing/bearing where the oil enters, and a slot at the bottom where it exits. This pinhole at the top can easily become gunked up restricting oil flow to the seal. Might want to run a piece of wire through it or spray it with some carb cleaner. This will ensure trouble free life for the new seal.

You can use the old seal against the new seal to hammer it in evenly. You'll need a little hammer as clearance is small.

[troyhyde]

You ought to be able to get a spare ECU for about $50-$75. Not sure what is compatible with '94 but if fully compatible I'd suggest a '96-'97 computer.

Then get an Inmotion chip from Ebay for $180. It's a good tune and very inexpensive.

Say hi to the guys at FCP, they've sent me many a box.

[jdlc]

Will do. The guys at their store counter are not the on-line/tel guys though, but they are as helpful.

Yeah, I'm told 96-97 is fully compatible w/ extra 'upgrade' of disabling the EGR.

Will look into this Inmotion offering, sounds like a good alternative.

I guess you're suggesting to keep my stock ecu, and get another one to fiddle with...

BTW, my goal is really simple, to get the car to boost to 18psi, which from what I'm hearing would give me at least 240whp with the necessary ecu upgrade (or chipped ecu, whatever the case may be). Don't intend to invest on down-pipe, and was told my fuel pump and stock injectors, as well as stock intake are sufficient, although k&n drop-in filter is recommended.

My car has used 16T 'replacement' turbo (not exactly sure if straight or conical), 2.5 dual after-cat, and I have AT from '98 T5. As it is, it's boosting strong and there seems to be no issue with the engine at 162k (no blue smoke, no funny sounds/knocking). I'm okay with AT with this car, and there seems to be no issue with the tranny. Plus I did the PCV already & dropped the pan after doing crank seafoam, and took care of the pick-up o-ring et al. Took care of all oil leaks (cam seals, axle seals, turbo return line, oil cooler lines), and now working on leaky waterpump - I'm getting there...

When I'm all set doing 'stage 0 plus', I will get compression readings and move from there if result is satisfactory.

You'll hear from me again in the perf section, I see you actively post there. Excited about this turbo, have the NA for ten years now and it's a fine car, just no omph. Got the 850 cheap, knowing there are issues, but I worked it one at a time. Been fun

You ought to be able to get a spare ECU for about $50-$75. Not sure what is compatible with '94 but if fully compatible I'd suggest a '96-'97 computer.

Then get an Inmotion chip from Ebay for $180. It's a good tune and very inexpensive.

Say hi to the guys at FCP, they've sent me many a box.