Jump to content
Volvospeed Forums

Car Making Too Much Boost?


Noahkk19

Recommended Posts

I have had no check engine light of late, but I was wondering if say my wastegate was not working properly or something like that, would that cause a check engine light? My problem must be the wastegate.

On the highway, my stock boost gauge goes to the end of the white on the simplest amounts of gas pedal. I wouldn't say SIMPLE, but deffintely not enough pedal for boost near my max output. Sometimes it feels like the car wants to go, then detects big boost and cuts back on the gas hard as a safety thing. This has happened ever since I got all my boost leaks straightened out, seems I was better off WITH the leaks, not that I mind seeing my boost gauge go all the way to the end. :ph34r:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

NoahKK17, have you been a naughty boy, and shortened your actuator rod? How many turns did you put in it? :P:lol:

None? OK, then your problem is something else, and you can ignore me :o

If you have put a few turns on, take it back, say four full turns, and see how it goes then. If that makes a difference, then you should get a bike pump and gauge and set the wastegate properly.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

check WG line. and if you're smart you'll mind if you don't have the extra fuel....if you dont now you will soon

OK, will do thanks. I didn't quite get what you were saying with the whole if you're smart you'll mind if you don't have the extra fuel thing???

Are you saying possibly not having the WG line attached is bad for my gas mileage and since my car is actually getting pretty crappy mileage right now that I'd be smart to get the WG line sorted out to save my gas? :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

NoahKK17, have you been a naughty boy, and shortened your actuator rod?  How many turns did you put in it? :P  :lol:

None?  OK, then your problem is something else, and you can ignore me :o

If you have put a few turns on, take it back, say four full turns, and see how it goes then.  If that makes a difference, then you should get a bike pump and gauge and set the wastegate properly.

haha, I guess I should ignore you :P

But thanks anyways B)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Noah what I was commenting on is having no line to the wastegate means that the boost is not being controlled properly by the wastegate. A wastegate works like this: There is a diaphragm inside the actuator where the vacuum line runs to. When a certain amount of boost is reached, this diaphragm is pushed out. The diaphragm is connected to a rod that connects to the wastegate. When the diaphragm is pushed out by the boost level when it is reached, the wastegate is swung open making the exhaust gasses bypass the exhaust turbine, controlling the amount of exhaust flowing by the turbine therefore controlling the speed of the turbine driving the compressor which meters the boost level. Fortunately, stock 850's have very loosely set wastegates meaning that when the exhaust gases build up a certian amount of pressure its quite possible for them to actually force the wastegate open and pull on the diaphragm, which is called "wastegate drift", a problem you'll hear referred to sometimes by people attempting to run high amounts of boost on a car with a loose wastegate.

My comment was referring to the safety of your engine, since you essentially have unmetered boost right now. Too much boost will cause predetonation, which will lead to an early and grim demise of your engine.

It sounds as if you're wastegate line is gone and perhaps the knock sensors are cutting back timing HARD when it flies the boost up causing the cut you're feeling, but its hard to tell without experiencing it firsthand or checking out the car its self.

-Andy

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Under the air hose that goes from the filter to the turbo, there will be a valve, with three vacuum hoses connected to it. This is the Turbo Control Valve (TCV) or Boost Solenoid (various names for the same part. I think Volvo parts guys call it a pressure regulator). This is in the picture below:

vacuum2.JPG

The top vacuum hose (yellow dot) should connect to your wastegate actuator. This is shown in the picture below, with the vacuum hose marked with yellow tape.

vacuum1.JPG

The middle vacuum hose, "bleed line", blue dot, should connect to the air intake pipe, somewhere pretty close to the TCV.

The third vacuum hose, on the bottom in the manifold pressure line. It is the middle hose in the picture, and connects to the turbo on the pressure side of the turbine. You can't see where it connects in this picture.

vacuum3.JPG

If these hoses, especially the yellow hose to the wastegate actuator are fine, then for some reason your wastegate isn't opening. I would suggest taking the heat shield off the turbo (four bolts), and lengthening the rod maybe five full turns (make sure you only turn the piece on the end, twisting the rod will damage the spring in the wastegate acuator). I know you said you didn't shorten it, but your symptoms are those of a turbo which is spooling up way too quickly, then having to react by opening the wastegate, letting off a lot of your boost, and cutting off fuel. If this works, you can always get back in and shorten the rod. Very quick, and could save you an engine rebuild.

Have a look over these things, and try lengthening the rod (shouldn't take more than 30 minutes, and for the love of god, do it when the car is cold!!).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

×
×
  • Create New...