Serious Stalling Problem And No Warm Restart

[Jippi 855 GLT]

car stalled on market street, wouldnt restart until i gave it gas and and kept trying for 5 minutes. wouldnt stay started unless i kept the pedal on the gas and the revs above 2.5k. i had to drive up the garage with 1 foot on the gas and 1 foot on the brake. parking the car it was fine and didnt stall, when it stalled and i got it restarted there was a it of black smoke. i read that it could be the pcv elbows but they are all new. when i get time i will check all the pcv tubing. im in the middle of a stage zero tuning, i had the obd 2 scanner and i pulled the codes. i get P0172( system too rich (bank 1)) and P0136 (O2 Sensor Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 2)). i will search more into it but i thought i ask. thanks in advance for the help.

Jack.

btw: are IPD performance wires worth it? or should i get Bougecord wires from ipd? or should i get oe volvo wires from volvo dealer?

[Guest Veeru]

I Had similar problem on my 2000 S40 few months back, I ended up servicing it by the dealer.

All I know was that they changed Fuel Pressure Regulator, which got fixed the problem and also they suggested to change Mass Air Flow sensor, which I didn't.

Just my 2 cents.

Veeru

I am not a mechanic

[MrWinkey]

I think your talking about a 96 so I'm gonna move this to eleminate confusion. Hard to say what the issue was, but you have a fuel trim code and an 0/2 code so really hard to say. Doubt it's a FPR as the confusion has started. The above poster has a 40 series and totally diffrent system. The FPR is a VERY common issue with the early 40 series. Honeslty sounds like you blew open an intake hose if it's a turbo. Need more specific info? ;)Ok you have a LPT check your intake hoses....and stay off Market St. it's bad carma?

[Jippi 855 GLT]

its a 1996 855 GLT non turbo, recent work done includes: plugs, cap, rotor, oil trap, flame trap, and all pcv hoses. with in the last 4k it also had a new timing belt, and a complete top end rebuild.

Jack

BTW: for those who dont know the GLTs before 98 didnt have a LPT.

[erikv11]

how do i go about testing the fuel system relay (also called fuel pump relay) and the fuel injection relay?

Did you only get those codes when this started? If so then hold off on the relays, wait for MrWinkey or someone else to post. Because bad relays shouldn't throw those codes. But maybe the codes are old? Clear them, do they come back? If so then focus on the codes, do some searching.

On to answer your question: swap 'em with working ones is the easiest way, but can be expensively reckless. unless you know someone with an 850 or can get relays cheap at the scrap yard. FI relay is up front near the fan/radiator, open the hood it's about front and center tucked under the cowl. FP relay is the red one #103 under the fuse tray.

There are a lot of threads about this but basically:

when the car is bad/stuck/dead, check for fuel pressure at the fuel rail. You can do this by turning the key to position 2, leave it there then go press the Schrader valve, looks like a bike tire air valve with a plastic cap, near the end of the fuel rail. It should spew gas when you press it.

> if the valve spews gas then the pump and FP relay are both fine, you need to check the FI relay and I am not sure how to do that. Search.

> if no gas at the rail then either the fuel pump or the fuel pump relay is bad. Turn the key to position 2 and you should hear the pump hum for about a second. Try it several times it should work every time. You may need to be in a quiet place.

> If it always hums then the FP relay is OK and so is the pump. You have a clog or some other problem, maybe FPR I dunno. Also a working FP relay will click after about a second, you can usually hear it in the driver's seat, that is when it cuts out voltage to the pump and the hum stops back at the pump. But beware a lot of times these relays get flakey before they die.

> If no hum then still, either FP relay or FP itself could be bad.

> ok so next thing to do is check the FP relay by seeing if it gives voltage to the pump. Read the Haynes or this website figure out where the fuel pump cover is, to remove it (CAREFUL you can blow yourself up. no sparks allowed). On your 855 you'll have to pull the boards from the rear compartment, it is slightly behind the seat. The pump sits under the cover, in the gas tank. The wire from the FP relay to the pump is pink. You want someone to turn the key to position II and then you should have 12 volts in the pink wire. If not then the FP relay is bad. If voltage but no hum then the problem is the pump itself. The original pumps go bad around 150k or so.

There is also a Shrader valve under the car between the pump and the fuel filter, you should have pressure there too. If you have pressure there but not at the rail, probably your filter is clogged with 261k of crap!

[Jippi 855 GLT]

Did you only get those codes when this started? If so then hold off on the relays, wait for MrWinkey or someone else to post. Because bad relays shouldn't throw those codes. But maybe the codes are old? Clear them, do they come back? If so then focus on the codes, do some searching.

On to answer your question: swap 'em with working ones is the easiest way, but can be expensively reckless. unless you know someone with an 850 or can get relays cheap at the scrap yard. FI relay is up front near the fan/radiator, open the hood it's about front and center tucked under the cowl. FP relay is the red one #103 under the fuse tray.

There are a lot of threads about this but basically:

when the car is bad/stuck/dead, check for fuel pressure at the fuel rail. You can do this by turning the key to position 2, leave it there then go press the Schrader valve, looks like a bike tire air valve with a plastic cap, near the end of the fuel rail. It should spew gas when you press it.

> if the valve spews gas then the pump and FP relay are both fine, you need to check the FI relay and I am not sure how to do that. Search.

> if no gas at the rail then either the fuel pump or the fuel pump relay is bad. Turn the key to position 2 and you should hear the pump hum for about a second. Try it several times it should work every time. You may need to be in a quiet place.

> If it always hums then the FP relay is OK and so is the pump. You have a clog or some other problem, maybe FPR I dunno. Also a working FP relay will click after about a second, you can usually hear it in the driver's seat, that is when it cuts out voltage to the pump and the hum stops back at the pump. But beware a lot of times these relays get flakey before they die.

> If no hum then still, either FP relay or FP itself could be bad.

> ok so next thing to do is check the FP relay by seeing if it gives voltage to the pump. Read the Haynes or this website figure out where the fuel pump cover is, to remove it (CAREFUL you can blow yourself up. no sparks allowed). On your 855 you'll have to pull the boards from the rear compartment, it is slightly behind the seat. The pump sits under the cover, in the gas tank. The wire from the FP relay to the pump is pink. You want someone to turn the key to position II and then you should have 12 volts in the pink wire. If not then the FP relay is bad. If voltage but no hum then the problem is the pump itself. The original pumps go bad around 150k or so.

There is also a Shrader valve under the car between the pump and the fuel filter, you should have pressure there too. If you have pressure there but not at the rail, probably your filter is clogged with 261k of crap!

i cleared them on wednesday night after the whole taking my intake apart thing and it stalled when i left the garage turning onto market st, that time there was no cel or codes in the cpu.

[erikv11]

i cleared them on wednesday night after the whole taking my intake apart thing and it stalled when i left the garage turning onto market st, that time there was no cel or codes in the cpu.

so if the problem is zero compustion, ie not "I can keep it going with one foot on each he gas and brake," then check the fuel relays, fuel pump etc. Let us know what you find.

[MrWinkey]

i cleared them on wednesday night after the whole taking my intake apart thing and it stalled when i left the garage turning onto market st, that time there was no cel or codes in the cpu.

You just had it all apart? What intake off? Problem wasn't there before doing your work? Re-check your work.

[Jippi 855 GLT]

You just had it all apart? What intake off? Problem wasn't there before doing your work? Re-check your work.

i had the whole intake manifold out long story, basically what happened was that i got paranoid and thought i had the oil trap hoses in backwards and i pulled them off and i was right all along and i thought i could put it back on with the intake on. lesson here is to trust your innstincts and the way it was originally..

[Jippi 855 GLT]

i had the whole intake manifold out long story, basically what happened was that i got paranoid and thought i had the oil trap hoses in backwards and i pulled them off and i was right all along and i thought i could put it back on with the intake on. lesson here is to trust your innstincts and the way it was originally..

well... heres an update, i changed all the vac hoses and the the dealer that i orig got the pcv hoses from are the wrong hose so i put the orig one back on. i flushed the tranny, changed the plugs, wires, cap and rotor, fuel filter and the fuel pump relay. thats a complete stage zero and the car still stalled just idling on the drive way. but this time it restarted unlike last time it wouldnt restart or restall. the car restarted and attempted to restall but the cars idle went back to 1k and it stayed on. i replaced jus about everything in the fuel system. plugs are new. i think its the fuel pump. any ideas? when it stalled there were no codes no lights. im iffy about driving it back to school bc i dun want it to stall on me. this is the weirdest stalling issue i ever came across. thanks in advance

Jack

[MrWinkey]

Yes ...but was your problem there before you tore it all back apart or after?

[Jippi 855 GLT]

Yes ...but was your problem there before you tore it all back apart or after?

yep before and after. so it did jack squat to the car. the fuel pump is the next thing to get changed. i have one from fcp and its in a few pieces and requires assembly. should i assemble it or spring for a fully assembled volvo one?

[*Officine Panerai*]

car stalled on market street, wouldnt restart until i gave it gas and and kept trying for 5 minutes. wouldnt stay started unless i kept the pedal on the gas and the revs above 2.5k. i had to drive up the garage with 1 foot on the gas and 1 foot on the brake. parking the car it was fine and didnt stall, when it stalled and i got it restarted there was a it of black smoke. i read that it could be the pcv elbows but they are all new. when i get time i will check all the pcv tubing. im in the middle of a stage zero tuning, i had the obd 2 scanner and i pulled the codes. i get P0172( system too rich (bank 1)) and P0136 (O2 Sensor Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 2)). i will search more into it but i thought i ask. thanks in advance for the help.

Jack.

btw: are IPD performance wires worth it? or should i get Bougecord wires from ipd? or should i get oe volvo wires from volvo dealer?

Got the same exact problem with my 95 850T5. Let me know when you figure out what the problem was.

[Jippi 855 GLT]

Got the same exact problem with my 95 850T5. Let me know when you figure out what the problem was.

right now im leaning toward the fuel pump. after the gas tank recall was done on my car by wynn volvo in norristown i had a gas leakage scare and it turned out to be the pump gasket, they said i might need a new fuel pump soon whatever that ment.

[Account_Deleted_T5M]

If it stalls out randomly at any speed highway, etc, it's a fuel pump relay. My car would stall, i couldn't start it for 5 minutes, and then all it would start right up.