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Brake Vibration


jdlc

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A have a slight vibration when braking at high speed in my 94 855, no pulsating on the brake pedal but the steering vibrates a little. Replaced the badly worn front pads and still the same. Checked the rears and they are fine with plenty of pads left. The shims at the back are not the cut-out type, so the pad wears are even. The rotors look fairly new, measured the front and they are almost 26mm, which I believe is the specs for new. Rears are very smooth (forgot to measure). No issue with stopping the car.

Is it worth trying to have the fronts turned since they are not very smooth anyway? Will this correct the issue (I'm thinking they maybe slightly warped?). The rears came off easily btw and so I checked and adjusted the park break shoes which look fine, but the fronts are stuck in the hub. Any tip on removing them without trashing them if I wish to give it a try to be turned?

Thanks

OrleeC

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Turning the rotors will help for sure. Replacing them will help even better.

I had some real bad rears that I had turned and it improved my situation big time. The braking vibration then get worse again after a few months and I just replaced the fronts with some drilled rotors off of eBay and the braking is as smooth as silk. I bought a replacement set for the rears as well but my son hijacked them for his car last night. His car now stops great too.

I guess I need to buy another set of drilled rotors so that my son can have the fronts and I can have the rears. :D

...Lee

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Turning the rotors will help for sure. Replacing them will help even better.

I had some real bad rears that I had turned and it improved my situation big time. The braking vibration then get worse again after a few months and I just replaced the fronts with some drilled rotors off of eBay and the braking is as smooth as silk. I bought a replacement set for the rears as well but my son hijacked them for his car last night. His car now stops great too.

I guess I need to buy another set of drilled rotors so that my son can have the fronts and I can have the rears. :D

...Lee

What seller. I'm afraid to get rotors off of ebay but if they worked for you it sounds good.

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I picked a set of 4 drilled and slotted rotors from a place called "Raceconcepts" I found on E-Bay and they only cost $103.00 but I picked them up in Garden Grove at the place they manufacture them. Have had them on my 855 for about 6 months and am very happy with them. If you can't find them, you can PM me and I will try to find the address for you.

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I think that's where I got my rotors for my V70 NA too, love the looks and I swear the braking is much improved (kind of noisy though, isn't it). It cost me $150 shipped. Would definitely consider them if I decide to replace the rotors.

It's just that my rotors are all still 'thick' and was hoping a simple turning could solve the vibration issue. The challenge is removing the fronts without thrashing it. I'm open to ideas. Anyone removed the pin that bolts to the hub, and drive it around @ low speeds until it's loose? (Obviously for the purpose of loosening the rotor, not for regular use).

I don't know the rationale of Volvo regarding their position about not turning the rotors, other makers do it.

I'll try to rotate the tire next time I have the car jacked-up.

Appreciate all the suggestion guys.

btw, my car is all set (94 855), I just need to get a boost gauge to see what I'm boosting - I'm hoping to get 14psi w/ stock ecu for now with the 16T installed on her.

I picked a set of 4 drilled and slotted rotors from a place called "Raceconcepts" I found on E-Bay and they only cost $103.00 but I picked them up in Garden Grove at the place they manufacture them. Have had them on my 855 for about 6 months and am very happy with them. If you can't find them, you can PM me and I will try to find the address for you.

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What seller. I'm afraid to get rotors off of ebay but if they worked for you it sounds good.

I got them from a seller called ucautoparts in Canada. They were $109.00 for the set (front & rear) +$45.00 for freight. The poor UPS guy about got a hernia carrying them up to the door so the $45.00 in freight is fair enough.

I'm very pleased with them other than that they rust in the holes. I see some other sellers that paint them so that the holes don't rust. I drive the car very hard on the way back and forth from the cabin and I haven't been able to warp them yet.

...Lee

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I'll call Volvo and see if they sell the cut shims. The one I got (for spare) from fcp grotons are the non-cut style ones too. The ones installed on our V70's which I was able to re-use a couple of times already are the cut-types. I think this is worth a try, considering the issue of front rotor removal.

Now that I think about it, let me see if I can just trim my spare rear shims to make them 'cut'type'.

Thanks

If you're not getting pulsing there's nothing wrong with the front rotors. Pads maybe, but I'd be more inclined to blame it on the rears not having cut shims. That is a place where a vibration would come from.

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if you're not getting pulsastion in the pedal when braking I'd be more inclined to have the tires professionally balanced and rotated. see if there is any change first. it's inexpensive and and should be done first before assuming rotors if you're not getting pulsation.

also make sure the pressure isn't jacked up high, is checked and adjusted cold after not driven with a digital gauge. pop up gauges suck and are generally very inaccurate.

if you're tire pressure is jacked up you'll definately have an increase in any slight vibration there might be. I wouldn't run any more than 36PSI cold. FWD vehicles with my experience seem to be pretty sensitive to high tire pressure that will create vibration.

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Thanks, will check that as well.

EDIT: Checked Bay13 and I can in fact cut my shims to make it the cut-type. Without disassembling my V70 rear brakes, I don't remember the orientation of the shims when it's the cut type. Anybody has done one recently, could you describe the shim positioning? Should the cut-shim make the bite more on the 'front' of the rotor or at the 'back' (picturing the rotor turning - the direction it's taking is the 'front' for clarity).

Thanks

OrleeC

if you're not getting pulsastion in the pedal when braking I'd be more inclined to have the tires professionally balanced and rotated. see if there is any change first. it's inexpensive and and should be done first before assuming rotors if you're not getting pulsation.

also make sure the pressure isn't jacked up high, is checked and adjusted cold after not driven with a digital gauge. pop up gauges suck and are generally very inaccurate.

if you're tire pressure is jacked up you'll definately have an increase in any slight vibration there might be. I wouldn't run any more than 36PSI cold. FWD vehicles with my experience seem to be pretty sensitive to high tire pressure that will create vibration.

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