aikitect Posted September 29, 2007 Report Share Posted September 29, 2007 All,My 2000R will not start although the engine turns over fine.It did not start immediatly a few weeks ago so I replaced the battery (it was in bad shape and I knew it was on its last leg). I pulled a plug and I am getting gas and spark - at least to the cylinder.I think it may be related to the ETM issue, but I do not know how to narrow it down.Some background on my car and the ETM recall:According to my Volov dealer the ETM recall is done in stages. First they reprogram. If that does not fix the problem, then they clean the ETM. If that does not fix the problem then they finally will replace the ETM. So far I have only had the reprgram.I had the ETM reprogram done about two months ago when my ETS light kept coming on (the reprogram wipped out my Upsolute chip tunning). They said that it would also stop the "Check Engine" light from constantly coming on.For a long time my "Check Engine" light did not come on, then it started coming on (and I would reset it by removing a fuse for a few minutes). I was waiting for teh ETS light to come on again before taking it back for stage 2, but it never came on.Any advice is appreciated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrWinkey Posted September 29, 2007 Report Share Posted September 29, 2007 Hard to say, you really shouldn't pull the ECM fuse to clear the code or codes without reading them? You could have given away the answer for your no start by doing so. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dmsee Posted September 29, 2007 Report Share Posted September 29, 2007 Did you pull the codes when you had CEL? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dmelviØØ7 Posted September 30, 2007 Report Share Posted September 30, 2007 Antenna ring? It picks up the transponder signal from the key. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leurven Posted October 1, 2007 Report Share Posted October 1, 2007 Could be a MAF problem - exact thing happened to me and a new MAF solved it. I didn't get a CEL for it either :( Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aikitect Posted October 1, 2007 Author Report Share Posted October 1, 2007 The dealer just called and said it was a slipped timing belt and that I need an engine rebuild.I had the belt replaced in 2004 and evidently the shop to which I took it (not a Volvo dealership) did not properly tighten the tensioner.$4,500 to fix. I am not sure if I am going to have it fixed or not. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mogatu'r Posted October 1, 2007 Report Share Posted October 1, 2007 The dealer just called and said it was a slipped timing belt and that I need an engine rebuild.I had the belt replaced in 2004 and evidently the shop to which I took it (not a Volvo dealership) did not properly tighten the tensioner.$4,500 to fix. I am not sure if I am going to have it fixed or not.ouch man! I remember talking to you about your ECU sometime ago on V70R.com, sorry to hear that!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2001T5 Posted October 1, 2007 Report Share Posted October 1, 2007 Did the pulley get replaced when the belt was changed? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dmsee Posted October 1, 2007 Report Share Posted October 1, 2007 The dealer just called and said it was a slipped timing belt and that I need an engine rebuild.I had the belt replaced in 2004 and evidently the shop to which I took it (not a Volvo dealership) did not properly tighten the tensioner.$4,500 to fix. I am not sure if I am going to have it fixed or not.Do a rebuild yourself or drop the other engine in Shouldnt be more than $1500$4500 is a complete dealer ripoff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrWinkey Posted October 2, 2007 Report Share Posted October 2, 2007 The dealer just called and said it was a slipped timing belt and that I need an engine rebuild.I had the belt replaced in 2004 and evidently the shop to which I took it (not a Volvo dealership) did not properly tighten the tensioner.$4,500 to fix. I am not sure if I am going to have it fixed or not.Huum really? 3 yrs later and now it happens? Did they set it back up on time and try it? Volvo does have issues with their manual tensioners? I'm personally not buying it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dmsee Posted October 2, 2007 Report Share Posted October 2, 2007 Dealers will always try to rip you off unless you let them know that they telling you B.S. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garbergtsi Posted October 2, 2007 Report Share Posted October 2, 2007 lol. i doubt that....but im guessing the tensioner let loose. most indy's wont replace it unless they work on a lot of volvos... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dmelviØØ7 Posted October 2, 2007 Report Share Posted October 2, 2007 Where is the car located? I need a new R. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aikitect Posted October 9, 2007 Author Report Share Posted October 9, 2007 Thanks everyone for your responses.Here is the update:Total costs: $3.900. New head and all that goes with it, new tensioner and pulleys, new belt. I was told to drive it gently for about 1,000 miles until the parts had a chance to seat.I had the timing belt replaced at 66K in 2004 and the car now has 88K. The bolt that holds the tensioner had backed out and let the timing belt slip. The original work was done by MBV in Charlotte NC. Evidently they did not properly torque the tensioner bolt.I had the head replaced with a new one. It turned out to be cheaper than having mine rebuilt. It is in two halves, an upper and lower half. The cam shafts sit between the two halves. I am used to working on older cars and it was interesting to see that there were no cam bearings – they integral with the case. I got to examine the original head and there were dings on all 10 exhaust valves. The mechanic said that when he filled the head with water that all 10 valves leaked. I said that one of the pistons had a small ding in it and that he smoothed it out so that there would not be uneven heat distribution that could possibly cause pinging.I also had an exhaust leak at the manifold, of which I was unaware. There was evidence of this on the head. That got fixed.The car runs great. It has incredibly more low end torque than before. It used to be that I was scared to pull out in traffic as I had to have enough time for the engine to get into the high RPM range before I started really moving. Not now – it scoots right off the line. It used to be that I could not back out of my steep uphill driveway until the car had warmed up – the car would just stop moving even though the engine was trying to go. No problems now. I really think that MBV got the timing off when they replaced the belt, but at the time I lived in an area where low end torque was unimportant so I guess me and my lead foot didn’t notice that something was amiss.The Check Engine Light has come on a few times (P0422 – Main Catalyst Below Threshold). The mechanic checked the code and said that perhaps I got some raw gas into the catalytic converter when I was trying to start it after the timing got whacked and that it should clear itself out over a period of several days. After I had the belt changed in 2004 (and about the time I had the car chipped), the CEL would come on fairly regularly during hot weather when driving in slow moving traffic. It was always code P0422. It went away for a long time after I had the ETM re-program (which also wiped out the Upsolute chip programming). Hopefully it will soon go away for good. Maybe one day I will get the Upsolute programming again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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