scout01 Posted November 9, 2007 Report Share Posted November 9, 2007 I'd say 70-80k.This is preventative maintenance. If your TB snaps, your engine is toast.I am on it. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jippi 855 GLT Posted November 9, 2007 Report Share Posted November 9, 2007 i replace it at 60k and i replace it on all cars i get or the family gets, its better safe then sorry. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chilled man Posted November 9, 2007 Report Share Posted November 9, 2007 Do the belt yourself if you dont your a I did tension pullly on both S belt and T belt along with both belts got the parts from Boston Volvo and paid less then $400 oh and took a afternoon to do it all myself Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stormtrooper1 Posted November 9, 2007 Report Share Posted November 9, 2007 Depends on what model you got850 early was 50Kothers were like 70K S60 V70 and etc 105KV70 AFTER 1999 was 105. 98 is in the "others" at 70k Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedTurbo850 Posted November 9, 2007 Report Share Posted November 9, 2007 V70 AFTER 1999 was 105. 98 is in the "others" at 70kWhat is the difference for these cars that the interval is so much longer? Is the belt a different material because isn't it the fear that over time the belt gets brittle and dry rather than it starts missing teeth or w/e? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jippi 855 GLT Posted November 9, 2007 Report Share Posted November 9, 2007 tensioner design and belt design Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matts 850 GLT Posted November 9, 2007 Report Share Posted November 9, 2007 tensioner design and belt designEarly cars 92/93 were only 50k intervals, they had narrower belts. At 70k 10yrs you need to do it now! Good luckMatt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TBM Posted November 29, 2007 Author Report Share Posted November 29, 2007 VERY SORRY to bump this thread up, but I am just about to order the parts from FCP. However, I'm not sure what exactly to order yet. I don't think I'll replace the water pump. But from this list what should I order? FCP Groton Link BTW, stopped by my mechanic and he's gonna charge me $225 for the belt change inlcuding the serp. belt.EDIT: BTW, my car has an Automatic Tensioner. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
troyhyde Posted November 29, 2007 Report Share Posted November 29, 2007 Order the belt from FCP. I'd also get a serpentine drive belt.Don't think it would be necessary to bother with the seals or water pump till the next Tbelt. While the belt is off, clean the rubber cap of the tensioner and rest it upside down. You will not want to re-use it if it is leaking (doubtful). Spin the bearings and make sure they are not noisy.Get a cheap ductile iron (c-clamp), it is the only thing you need to compress the tensioner. You might check your lower engine mount while you are working in there, they don't stick around all that long. Take your time and you'll be fine. The second one you do will be much easier. Squeezing the belt on the lower crank gear is a pain in the neck. Alignment is finicky. Remove the water tank and rest on the head, it will give you a better sight line to all the marks. Keep a flashlight at the ready.Have fun! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arbelac Posted November 29, 2007 Report Share Posted November 29, 2007 Anyone in the Lower Mainland area in BC want to help me change mine ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TBM Posted November 29, 2007 Author Report Share Posted November 29, 2007 ^ LOL, I won't be doing it. Taking it to a mechanic. ;) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TBM Posted November 30, 2007 Author Report Share Posted November 30, 2007 Alright guys...I just spend like an hour searching on here about timing belt changing. Since my car has 70k and has the automatic tensioner (not the mechanical one), I guess all I have to replace is the belt itself, and that's all. Right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jdlc Posted November 30, 2007 Report Share Posted November 30, 2007 Alright guys...I just spend like an hour searching on here about timing belt changing. Since my car has 70k and has the automatic tensioner (not the mechanical one), I guess all I have to replace is the belt itself, and that's all. Right?EDIT: didn't read it right , automatic tensioner = hydraulic, silly me.Definitely reusable if not leaking. If the shop is volvo specialist, they would know better than compressing it in haste.Also, get the used serp-belt and put it in your trunk as back-up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike_P Posted November 30, 2007 Report Share Posted November 30, 2007 Since my car has 70k and has the automatic tensioner (not the mechanical one), I guess all I have to replace is the belt itself, and that's all. Right?Correct, the generally accepted practice here for the hydraulic tensioner (and the idler/tensioner pulleys) is replacement every other tbelt interval provided it is not leaking fluid and the pin is not easily pushed in (you normally need a vise/c-clamp/special tool to compress it) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gr3664 Posted November 30, 2007 Report Share Posted November 30, 2007 i just did mine, never done it before in my life, but i know how to follow directions well - so follow the links for timing belt change and do EVERYTHING they suggest - i particularly liked the idea of two quarters in a vise-grip to back off the tension in the tension arm - i didn't replace the water pump or the rollers, but i did replace the tensioner - the absolute BEST idea i heard was to cut that s*%$ timing belt to get it out - this part alone took me probably an hour and 1/2! getting it in is a snap in comparison - getting the belt tight AND in the right place was more difficult than i would have thought, but the most important instruction is to turn the crank manually at least once to make sure you're unobstructed BEFORE you button everything up - good luck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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