Transmission S1 S2

[Luther White]

Hey guys haven't posted here in awhile, because I havn't been driving the brick. It's been parked awhile I've gotten a 07 Tundra so the old beast has been sitting around. Anyway, I need some insight into a problem. I took it out today and the damn arrow statrted flashing again and went into limp mode. I got her home and pulled S2S1 code. I was wondering if it is indeed the sealnoids or could the PNP swtich cause these codes???

I called my local trans guy and he said that he would install the sealnoids for 150.00 bucks if I bought the parts. Do you guys think this is a far deal?? When he changes them do you think I should go back with synthetic, if so, what?

I'm also going to sell it asking 2850.50 do you think this is a good price?

In sum:

1. can S1S2 codes be caused by the PNP switch?

2. Do you think this is a good price? I see that FCP has them for 75.00 bucks x 2.

3. Synthetic or not and if so what?

4. 2850.00 a good price?

Thanks for your help in advance.

[Matts 850 GLT]

Y'know it might just be lack of use. If its been standing awhile the tranny fluid may have degraded and caused the solenoids to stick. Could be worth a flush and see if it frees them off? I think S1 and S2 can be done with the tranny in the car just be removing the sump - not sure but seems a good price.

Matt

[Luther White]

Y'know it might just be lack of use. If its been standing awhile the tranny fluid may have degraded and caused the solenoids to stick. Could be worth a flush and see if it frees them off? I think S1 and S2 can be done with the tranny in the car just be removing the sump - not sure but seems a good price.

Matt

Thanks Matt for your reply!! I will go ahead and order parts and get it done soon. Who ever buys it I want at the very least to be assured that it is in the best possible running condition for its age. Also to forewarn them that old volvos are maintenance demons, lol. Has anyone bought the seal for the pan through FCP? I didn't see it on there web site.

[Robert Rike]

I saw another post about replacing these either here or another forum. They alluded that the subframe has to drop a bit to get to the pan you are refering to that the solenoids are behind. I have the factory AW50-42 manual but it only shows out of car disassembly. No info as to whether there is clearance to remove the pan. Good luck, hope the mechanic sticks to his quote cause if the sub does have to drop in the front that is a nice price.

Rob

Thanks Matt for your reply!! I will go ahead and order parts and get it done soon. Who ever buys it I want at the very least to be assured that it is in the best possible running condition for its age. Also to forewarn them that old volvos are maintenance demons, lol. Has anyone bought the seal for the pan through FCP? I didn't see it on there web site.

[Vitor]

$150.00 to replace the solenoids is a red flag.

I replaced one of the solenoids in the trans. of my wagon and I was almost at the point of dropping the whole transmission, so I did. A clutch pack was burned, extra crispy.

It takes at least 4 hrs. (for a very good transmission shop and a good mechanic) to open the cover and replace the solenoid. 6 hrs. is more likely.

If you determine that the solenoids is not the problem, then the transmission needs to come out, drop the subframe again.

Now some comedy relief.

After the transmision is off the car, carefully pour lots of money in the transmission dipstick tube, I rolled (tightly) a few hundred dollar bils and pushed them into the transmission with a 3/8 wooden dowel, it stopped taking them when it reached about 14 bills. Of course, my labor was not included.

The dealer is much better at this, they gave me a quote for 43 bills into the tranny, that's pretty good, but I don't think that is the record. Some dealers can cram about 55 Benjamins down the tube.

A new transmission will triple the value of the car and if you fill up the gas tank, you are looking at a very expensive car.

[Luther White]

Man, that would really suck. Maybe I'll just drop the selling price and wash my hands. Maybe the next volvo enthusiast will have more stamina and time to get her running again. I love the old brick and she looks good and rides great when she is running. Like my father n law said the other day when I was telling him maybe I would just sink another thousand or so in her and then she would be a great running car. His response, "you've been couple of thousanding that car since you owned that car, denial is not a river in egypt". Pretty funny, lol What do you guys think?

[MrWinkey]

I agree with both matt and vitor.

Usually when you have those codes it means a fried clutch pack

I would try flushing the system first and vitor is correct $150 is waaay too cheap IMO?

Bay 13 has good instructions on how to flush a tranny without a machine. Honestly I have

done this and it works very well. Oh and it's less than $150 ...don't do syn though stick with

dextron III

[Luther White]

I'll try that this weekend, will let you guys know.

Thanks

[Robert Rike]

Speaking of flushing the transmission, anyone have experience with Valvoline high mileage Dextron III? The bottle says it has sythetic base oils but is that bad for these transmissions or is that just for seals on the engines? I run dinosaur oil in the engine and change every 3k miles. A former Volvo mechanic suggested the high mileage stuff. Anyone had any trouble with it. Shifts great since I got the engine back in but then again, it was fine before. The RMS was just blowing out a quart every 100 miles.

Thanks,

Rob

97 850