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Replacing Front Hub Bearing Stipped T0rx Head... Ideas?


jnderr

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I am in the process of replacing the passenger side front hu on my 98' S70.

3 of the 4 bolts came out no problem.

The 4th and last was damaged and I could not get the E14 T0rx socket onto it.

So I tried a variety of methods including a 12 point socket, vice grips, larger t0rx plus liberal amounts of PB blaster. All to no avail and admittedly made the situation worse.

I then put it all back together ran out and purchased a bolt out extractor set from Sears (see link below)

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00952060000P?filter=Price%7C%240-60%5E&vName=Tools&cName=Mechanics+Tools&sName=Taps+%26+Dies

I could not get the extractor set to bite down, I don't know if it is because I was using hand tools and if an impact gun would have made the difference or if its a result of the bold head being somewhat tapered.

Other options I have considered after doing a fair amount of searching.

-Cut a slot in the head and try to get it out with a large flat blade screw driver.

-I am not sure as do not have the front assembly apart at the moment, but anyone know off hand if the spindle even has any threads in it and maybe just the hub. That being the case I could cut the head off the bolt and the hub would come away no problem.

-Try the bolt out extractor using an impact gun, I don't have one myself but can probably access one.

-Admit defeat and seek professional help.

As always any help is greatly appreciated.

Thank you in advance,

-John

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For future reference, it's a good idea to hammer the Torx socket on to the bolt to get it seated fully, especially if the bolt is a bit rusty.

Here's what you can do now. Keep in mind the stuck bolt and the hub assembly are "throw-aways" because you have new components to replace them. If I were you I wouldn't do anything with the Torx head of the bolt, I would attack it from the other side and drill out the bolt from the "wheel side" of the hub. I would use a drill bit large enough to take out the threads and all. Just be careful not to drill through the spindle hole.

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For future reference, it's a good idea to hammer the Torx socket on to the bolt to get it seated fully, especially if the bolt is a bit rusty.

Noted, good idea.

Here's what you can do now. Keep in mind the stuck bolt and the hub assembly are "throw-aways" because you have new components to replace them. If I were you I wouldn't do anything with the Torx head of the bolt, I would attack it from the other side and drill out the bolt from the "wheel side" of the hub. I would use a drill bit large enough to take out the threads and all. Just be careful not to drill through the spindle hole.

I'd prefer not to do it from that end as I am not convinced its a bad hub. I hesitate only because it was replaced 15 months ago, it certainly sounds like a bad hub and left turns definitely increase the racket its making.

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pfeener has some very good advice.

However you got your panties in a jamb here and drilling sucks.

Have you applied any heat to the bolt? I would put the other three bolts back in tight(to take the load off the stuck bolt) then apply heat to the stuck bolt with a small torch. Use a LARGE pair of GOOD vise grips and try and back it out. If you drill it, your only going to end up with a nightmarish mess unless your real good, have very sharp bits and totally on center. If you can get it to break loose then your fat city. Keep applying heat and work it out. Just my insight

;)

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To add to pfeener and MrWinkey's advice, I feel you need to accept the fact that the hub IS toast, and will need replacing. Trying to save it at this point is an excercise in futility. The heat may damage the bearing and CV boot if you're not careful. Overtightening the axle nut could damage the bearing.

I'de grind the head off myself

The OEM hub would've came with new bolts...were these new bolts in there?

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To add to pfeener and MrWinkey's advice, I feel you need to accept the fact that the hub IS toast, and will need replacing. Trying to save it at this point is an excercise in futility. The heat may damage the bearing and CV boot if you're not careful. Overtightening the axle nut could damage the bearing.

I'de grind the head off myself

The OEM hub would've came with new bolts...were these new bolts in there?

Yes they appear to be pretty new.

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I would like to add my experience with Sears' bolt-out - I would give it a thumb up. The thing is you need to tap it so that it bites on the bolt head. Use an extension to help tapping it. Keep pressure when you unscrew it.

Of course, blast it with PB before tackling it.

Good luck.

I am in the process of replacing the passenger side front hu on my 98' S70.

3 of the 4 bolts came out no problem.

The 4th and last was damaged and I could not get the E14 T0rx socket onto it.

So I tried a variety of methods including a 12 point socket, vice grips, larger t0rx plus liberal amounts of PB blaster. All to no avail and admittedly made the situation worse.

I then put it all back together ran out and purchased a bolt out extractor set from Sears (see link below)

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00952060000P?filter=Price%7C%240-60%5E&vName=Tools&cName=Mechanics+Tools&sName=Taps+%26+Dies

I could not get the extractor set to bite down, I don't know if it is because I was using hand tools and if an impact gun would have made the difference or if its a result of the bold head being somewhat tapered.

Other options I have considered after doing a fair amount of searching.

-Cut a slot in the head and try to get it out with a large flat blade screw driver.

-I am not sure as do not have the front assembly apart at the moment, but anyone know off hand if the spindle even has any threads in it and maybe just the hub. That being the case I could cut the head off the bolt and the hub would come away no problem.

-Try the bolt out extractor using an impact gun, I don't have one myself but can probably access one.

-Admit defeat and seek professional help.

As always any help is greatly appreciated.

Thank you in advance,

-John

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