Jump to content
Volvospeed Forums

2000 V70r


94850tx

Recommended Posts

So anyways if you want help figuring your air ride out let me know. BTW Viair compressors are the way to go and buy a tank twice as big as you think you'll need. Run your switches ground side.

+1. I did a pair of 320 comps and 10 gallons on my truck. Their loud but they seem tough. Mine are even mounted upside down and have yet to overheat in florida heat

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 42
  • Created
  • Last Reply

heres what I have so far :lol:

3gallon tank

DSCN1056.jpg

valir aircompressor

DSCN1057.jpg

airhorns lol

DSCN1058.jpg

The air hose is air compressor hose .

any links to the bags you suggest , I am only doing the rears and using the Eibach springs for the front.

I am just going for up and down with the bags holding a constant hight . Not really looking for that tucked affect, more or less for the non saggy rear end look

thinking something like this

http://www.ridetech.com/productinfo/produc...ice=%24899%2E00

looks like it should fit right in where the Nivos are placed but just a bit expensive , thinking bags welded right to the frame.

With a fill valve in the back of the car near the tank, maybe a electronic switch up front

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I buy a lot of fittings and what not from these people:

http://www.gtsouthwest.com/

They are like 2 blocks from my work.

For your fittings that have to be threaded I recommend to not use tefflon tape, loc-tite makes a red paste (it is NOT red loc tite like for bolts) that is getting somewhat hard to find that works great. If I can find a bottle with the label still on it I will get you the name of it. Also make sure you drain your tank as often as possible and if you can run a one way check valve right before the valves, you cannot have one after the valves (or it won't fill or dump, depending how you have it installed) but at least if it's before the valve if for some reason you have a problem after that you won't loose the air in your tank.

I would buy a single switch gauge panel like one of these on this site: http://www.ridetech.com/productinfo/components.asp and run the valves that way. I like Extreme Valves or GC valves. On this page you can also find DOT air hose, you need to buy this and ditch the air compressor hose. Make sure anywhere the hose runs near sharp surfaces you use a gromet or wrap the hose with rubber hose to protect it. Remember zip ties and hose brackets are your friend, keep the hose away from anything thats hot, sharp, or moves. Air Ride Technologies is expensive but I fell confident that if I send you to them you will get a quality product. I've bought from cheaper sources but I know what I am buying.

So far what you have looks good, I'd caution you about the compressor location, just watch and make sure its not getting too hot. You probabaly won't ever work that compressor as hard as the truck guys do so you should be OK but becareful they do get HOT! I would personally mount it under the vehicle for more air circulation. I personally like to run my own compressor switch and not mess with a pressure switch, I don't trust them and prefer to check them on my own with a manual gauge.

Depending how low you go in the back a back up compressor is nice to have if you can find a deal on one.

Nick

Link to comment
Share on other sites

sweet info

Instead of on the frame just installling bags where the rear springs are instead.

I think that should be the easiest to do and simplest .

yeah my next purchase needs to be a guuge and switches

any place you suggest for just bags ?

I just bought a 400c valir for the other car since the cheap aircompressor that came with that horn setup broke its mounts and vibrated like a fiend

just waiting for it to come in the mail and your correct those guys are expensive I got the same thing for 100 less

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I would call air ride and see what they recommend on the bags, you will need to give them some deminsions. Use their knowledge on that and then buy elsewhere lol. Yes they are expensive but they will work with you on the price. Their fittings and lines are however a good price and you know it's quality product.

I'll go through some of my contacts here in a bit and see who I can source you some backs from. FYI If you want to run the bags between the control arms you are going to have to do some fabrications and use plats/cups to use a convulted bag, I would stay away from a sleeve bag.

Nick

Link to comment
Share on other sites

intresting

same thing I was looking at over at the other site but for less then half the price :lol:

http://www.accessconnect.com/bellows_air_over_shock.htm

this seems to be the easiest just remove nivo and install this instead but still expensive.

might just but bags http://www.accessconnect.com/super_duty_air_bags.htm in place of the rear springs and ditch the Nimovats completely

the question is where is the connect for airline in for that ?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Air over shock is a decent set up and might work well for your needs.

Those are convoluted bags (or bellowed bags) the air line goes into the top (see the 4 holes in the top plate of the bag? The raised one is for the air line the others are for 3 bolts (typically how they are set up) where the bag is bolted to the plate or cup, it will also have 3 bolt holes on the bottom for mounting to the lower plate/cup. You will have to do some fabrication, mostly in making the plates, the correct size cups can be purchased.

This is the set up I prefer but obviously takes more work. This is what we run on the front of most trucks with upper/lower control arms and the rear we do one of many link type set ups.

Air lift makes a decent bag.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Firestone, Slam Specialties and Air Lift all make good bags. 3 Gallons might be enough if you don't plan on doing much adjusting. Everything Nick said is great info :)

Check out s10forums.com as they have LOADS of info on doing airbag setups.

Nick, the F150 looked great, when did you complete the build? I was really big into minitrucks until I sold my S10.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The truck was done July 22, 2005 (it's a 2002 F150)..built in 60 days on the dot (LOL I remember holding the doors open at 7am friday Morning on I35W @ 90mph putting the door panels on on the way to Texas Heat Wave), totaled within 4 months of being done. What a waste. We never got totally done, it needed to have wide whites installed and be pinstriped to be totally done, I wasn't 100% happy with the rear set up but overall it was well built....you couldn't tell we painted it unless you saw the firewall was still black...I took it all apart. I need to find the interior shots, we put some chopped down seats in it, covered in leather, harley truck rear console, dyed all the trim black (no reg cab f150s had an all black interior). It sucks it never got 100% done or shot for anything more than the Dupont ad, I was very proud of the truck at the time as it was the first complete build I had done with almost no help and I was 19 at the time. Basically it getting totalled ruined a friendship and my involvement in the late model truck scene. Me and the owner are back friends again and are talking about busting it out and finishing where we left off better than ever...we'll see what happens. Like I said this go around it'll be a roadster with a navi front clip.

I'm still big into trucks but I've backed out of the late model gig. But...once a 'trucker always a 'trucker.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.


×
×
  • Create New...