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BlackBeast

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I currently have a P1 '97 V70 T5M that is of course pre ME7. Now ive got my hands on a spare engine from a P2 '02 S60 T5 engine kindly donated by Sir Drivealot on T5D5.

At the moment im in the plan stage of the build, but i have a few questions that you guys might be able to answer for me as it will have a very large impact on which direction I will go in.

If I was to use the P2 block, will a head from a pre ME7 T5 engine fit without any problems? I.e will all the water and oil channels line up perfectly? cambelt etc etc.

If I was to use the complete P2 engine, how do I disable VVT but still use the P2 cams?

If I was to use the complete P2 engine, I disable the VVT, could I use P1 cams if i cant use the P2 cams.

I think id have to use the pre ME7 inlet manfiold anyway, so id still have my standard throttle plate.

Thats it for now :)

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You don't have a P1 V70 engine I promise. But anyways, is there any reason you do not want to go ME7? You can disable VVT if you wanted but depending on your goals I would keep it unless you have a reason not to. Take all the flow you can get on these engines.

Hi chuck, having a Motronic 4.4 ECU as standard, I would have thought it would be easier to disable the VVT than convert the car to ME7?

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Hi chuck, having a Motronic 4.4 ECU as standard, I would have thought it would be easier to disable the VVT than convert the car to ME7?

I was just thinking why gimp the car. If you have it all pulled down your looking at some money but not too much work. I assume this would be on a project car. Disabling the VVT would be cheaper. THE short answer is you can block off the VVT and run the engine with just a handful of sensor swaps.

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Although I do not have any experience with it myself the word is that a solenoid blocked but otherwise still fully functional/in place VVT system won't last. It will start wandering over time. Maybe "the swedes" can help you here, they have done this trick before but I think it requires internal blocking of the VVT unit.

About "P2" block and "800 series" head, this will work without problems. Make sure to use the head gasket matching the head, not the block. Old style cam gears will mate with the new style block crank gear. Use new style tensioner and idler pulley's with it. You also need a new crank pulley side engine mount and a new "front" engine mount if they aren't on the new engine. Mounts of the older engine's do not fit the block.

About the cams, old style and new style do not mix, they do not even fit because the axial "bearing" is in a different spot.

Maybe another option disabling the VVT is to exchange the exhaust cam for an NA cam of the same year NA engine. The profile probably isn't that suitable for turbo application so it might need a regrind.

Rebuilding to ME 7 is a complete waste of effort unless you can find someone who can get the ME 7 engine management working as a standalone without the CEM and the whole CAN bus network sht.

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Although I do not have any experience with it myself the word is that a solenoid blocked but otherwise still fully functional/in place VVT system won't last. It will start wandering over time. Maybe "the swedes" can help you here, they have done this trick before but I think it requires internal blocking of the VVT unit.

About "P2" block and "800 series" head, this will work without problems. Make sure to use the head gasket matching the head, not the block. Old style cam gears will mate with the new style block crank gear. Use new style tensioner and idler pulley's with it. You also need a new crank pulley side engine mount and a new "front" engine mount if they aren't on the new engine. Mounts of the older engine's do not fit the block.

About the cams, old style and new style do not mix, they do not even fit because the axial "bearing" is in a different spot.

Maybe another option disabling the VVT is to exchange the exhaust cam for an NA cam of the same year NA engine. The profile probably isn't that suitable for turbo application so it might need a regrind.

Rebuilding to ME 7 is a complete waste of effort unless you can find someone who can get the ME 7 engine management working as a standalone without the CEM and the whole CAN bus network sht.

People I know who have done this swapped the whole network in. I did not think about this earlier but you could also leave the VVT and just built a controller for it. Cost would be a few grand but again cheaper than replacing everything.

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Although I do not have any experience with it myself the word is that a solenoid blocked but otherwise still fully functional/in place VVT system won't last. It will start wandering over time. Maybe "the swedes" can help you here, they have done this trick before but I think it requires internal blocking of the VVT unit.

About "P2" block and "800 series" head, this will work without problems. Make sure to use the head gasket matching the head, not the block. Old style cam gears will mate with the new style block crank gear. Use new style tensioner and idler pulley's with it. You also need a new crank pulley side engine mount and a new "front" engine mount if they aren't on the new engine. Mounts of the older engine's do not fit the block.

About the cams, old style and new style do not mix, they do not even fit because the axial "bearing" is in a different spot.

Maybe another option disabling the VVT is to exchange the exhaust cam for an NA cam of the same year NA engine. The profile probably isn't that suitable for turbo application so it might need a regrind.

Rebuilding to ME 7 is a complete waste of effort unless you can find someone who can get the ME 7 engine management working as a standalone without the CEM and the whole CAN bus network sht.

Thanks Johann and Chuck, you guys really are the font of all knowledge on these things.

The paragraph ive highlighted in the quote above seems to be the easiest and most suitable course of action for myself and by the sound of it the most reliable.

I shall find another head to work on and use the p2 block.

Cheers guys!

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If you want to run the factory CVVT why not use a piggy back to do that?

The signal is a fixed frequency varying duty cycle.

You could control it like a nitrous solenoid (37hz 0-100% D.C.)

I know a few companies make stand alones to run variable valve timing in addition to spark/fuel.

I do not know if they support 5 cyl models. Guess I'll go do some research...

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If you want to run the factory CVVT why not use a piggy back to do that?

The signal is a fixed frequency varying duty cycle.

You could control it like a nitrous solenoid (37hz 0-100% D.C.)

I know a few companies make stand alones to run variable valve timing in addition to spark/fuel.

I do not know if they support 5 cyl models. Guess I'll go do some research...

Ehhhh what?

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Is there any real upgrade to going with the block from a 99+ as opposed to that of the pre98? That being 98+ and pre97 over on your side of the pond.

Unless you blew your block somehow, I don't really see much of a difference to be had between the two blocks. That being said, I'd go with the new motor and convert to ME7. VVT and ETM, it'll be harder to work with, but in the long run you'll have greater efficiency.

I suppose it depends on exactly where your taking the project (as with most builds).

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Is there any real upgrade to going with the block from a 99+ as opposed to that of the pre98? That being 98+ and pre97 over on your side of the pond.

Unless you blew your block somehow, I don't really see much of a difference to be had between the two blocks. That being said, I'd go with the new motor and convert to ME7. VVT and ETM, it'll be harder to work with, but in the long run you'll have greater efficiency.

I suppose it depends on exactly where your taking the project (as with most builds).

Pre 99s had better blocks post 99 had better heads. And I think he is trying to build one engine while the car stay in service then swapping them to maintain min down time.

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Pre 99s had better blocks post 99 had better heads. And I think he is trying to build one engine while the car stay in service then swapping them to maintain min down time.

Figured I was missing something.

So technically if you want to maximize performance. Going with the ME4.4 block at the ME7 head would be the way to go? Interesting. Would the guides line up for that swap as well?

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Figured I was missing something.

So technically if you want to maximize performance. Going with the ME4.4 block at the ME7 head would be the way to go? Interesting. Would the guides line up for that swap as well?

Yes. But again I would, and did, rather just sleeve any old block.

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