Need Help To Trouble Shoot Faulty Power Window Switch

[SWM]

I searched and didn't find any help, though im sure its been asked before.

My rear passenger power window is not working. It wont work from the master switch at driver seat, or directly on the door of that window. Can i get some ideas on where to start troubleshooting? It worked fairly recently, but being winter and all, i havent put the windows down in a bit...

[Dmsee]

Look if the power going to that window. Test the motor

[SWM]

whats the best way to go about this...just listen to see if the motor is trying to work? Listen for a clicking or any sign of life at that door? Or would i need to take the door panel off and test motor?

Look if the power going to that window. Test the motor

[Dmsee]

Try to take the door panel off its easy and will make the repair easier.

[BEJinFBK]

Try to take the door panel off its easy and will make the repair easier.

It could be:

Master switch

RR Door switch

Motor

Most likely, it's one of the switches.

Starting at the master and moving towards

the motor with a meter is the smart money.

You can pop the switches out from the top. Two well placed butter knives will do the trick.

The flat springs that hold the switch assemblies in are at the top and bottoms of the switch housings.

Insert the knives to release the springs, DO NOT pry with the knives. Be careful not to mar the plastic that they snap down into.

Lift up carefully on the switch lever after you have released the springs and the switch will pop right up.

Now get your meter out and get to testing!

[JBVolvo]

Try to take the door panel off its easy and will make the repair easier.

Most likely (if neither the front, nor rear buttons work for just that window) it's motor related, as all the windows are on the same 20amp fuse (#37).

But you can confirm this by removing the switches at both locations and checking them with a meter for power (with the key on). If they both have power, start looking at the motor. If the motor isnt working with the switch, it's probably burnt.

If the motor is trying to move the window, their could be a problem with the linkage being broken, or binding somewhere.

Or it could be broken inside the motor itself (which is pretty much the same thing as being burnt...time for a new one).

[JBVolvo]

Not sure what year you have...but....

If its the motor, check it out: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Volvo-850-P...Q2em118Q2el1247

If its the regulator: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1996-Volvo-...Q2em118Q2el1247

If its the switch: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/VOLVO-850-C...sspagenameZWDVW

I got nothing for ya if its the actual door switch.

FYI - check theres no issue with the REAR window lock within the master console switch.

Its the button that restricts power to the rear door window switches, when kids in the back seat are pissing you off.

Look on the bright side....at least your problem is that it wont go DOWN as opposed to up! Pain in the ass when it rains.

[switch doctor]

It is most likely your master switch -- if so you will need to clean the contacts for that rear window at least in the master switch -- go to my website https://www.switchdoctor.net for removal instructions and partial instructions on cleaning the contacts (still working on it!)

[SWM]

thanks for the feedback, this is for a 98 S70 T5M as my sig says. The switch at the door does not operate the window, nor does the master switch, so for those indicating a switch issue, does it STILL sound like a switch issue? Ill see if i cann approach the door panel and test the motor, but im not real technical with cars, so i was looking for the least invasive tests first.

[JBVolvo]

thanks for the feedback, this is for a 98 S70 T5M as my sig says. The switch at the door does not operate the window, nor does the master switch, so for those indicating a switch issue, does it STILL sound like a switch issue? Ill see if i cann approach the door panel and test the motor, but im not real technical with cars, so i was looking for the least invasive tests first.

it depends if power has to run THROUGH the master switch to the door switch.

If so, it could be the master switch. It's not a difficult thing to check. Pop the master switch out and removed the connector.

Then clean the contacts especially those for the right rear. Then check it again.

I'd work my way back though. Pop the door switch out and check it for power. (Make sure the key is on)

If theres power coming to the switch and it changes when you activate it - its the motor.

I couldnt see your sig because wherever its hosted from, is blocked at my work.

[BEJinFBK]

Here's a rough overview:

This is a very typical power window setup that many (especially older) cars use.

It's based on the concept that a DC motor turns the other way if you reverse power polarity.

It does this using 2 pole, triple throw momentary [ 2P3T (on)-on-(on) ] switches

with a center at rest position that provides a connection to ground at rest to both motor leads.

The master is connected to this ground directly, the local sees that ground THROUGH the master at rest.

At the Master switch, you have +12 power, a ground (GRND) coming in and a pair leaving the master that's connected to the motor leads (ML)

through the local switch (Rear Right Door) IF the local switch is OK. With the both switches at rest, both motor leads should see ground.

The master switch and the local switch are run in series to the motor, so if one is open, they're both inop.

Move either switch up and it lifts one ML from grnd and puts power on it. Window goes up.

Move it down and the other ML gets the same treatment. Window goes down.

SO...Check power and switch operation at the master.

Then, do the same at the local.

If you have good power and GRND at the local switch,

then check the motor.

To Recap.

Check power and ground at the master First.

Then check for power and GRND leaving the local switch.

If both of the switches are OK ( Not too likely...), it's probably the motor.

The classic point of failure on these cars is the switches, but you have to

check these switches in order to find out which one it is.

Good Luck, Mr. Phelps!

[64pvolvo1800]

thanks for the feedback, this is for a 98 S70 T5M as my sig says. The switch at the door does not operate the window, nor does the master switch, so for those indicating a switch issue, does it STILL sound like a switch issue? Ill see if i cann approach the door panel and test the motor, but im not real technical with cars, so i was looking for the least invasive tests first.

You should just get rid of that POS car. I'll come take it off your hands for free if you want. :lol:

JK it sounds less like a switch to me since it would have to be both switches bad. Can you operate the other rear window from the master? if not, see the earlier post about the lock button. Otherwise, it doesn;t sound good for a switch.

[BEJinFBK]

You should just get rid of that POS car. I'll come take it off your hands for free if you want. :lol:

JK it sounds less like a switch to me since it would have to be both switches bad. Can you operate the other rear window from the master? if not, see the earlier post about the lock button. Otherwise, it doesn;t sound good for a switch.

If EITHER of the switches is bad, the window won't work.

Series, bubba. Series. ( That means one after the other.)

Good point on the lock switch. I just kinda figured that since

he was only worried about the RR, then the RL was cool.

Again: Power starts at the Master,

Goes through the local,

reaches the Motor.

1,2,3 !

This ain't Rocket Surgery...

Nice move on the car, though. Smoooooth.

Think he'll go for it?

[64pvolvo1800]

If EITHER of the switches is bad, the window won't work.

Series, bubba. Series. ( That means one after the other.)

Good point on the lock switch. I just kinda figured that since

he was only worried about the RR, then the RL was cool.

Again: Power starts at the Master,

Goes through the local,

reaches the Motor.

1,2,3 !

This ain't Rocket Surgery...

Nice move on the car, though. Smoooooth.

Think he'll go for it?

My master for the frnt pass door window will take it down but not up. It still comes up fine with the pass door switch. (and down for that matter). Since we are talking about parallel controls, with a center "neutral" position, you might rethink your assessment, BUBBA!!! No BUbba here DUDE!!!

I can only hope! I would evne be kind enough to swap him my NA for his POS witht he window problem. Hell, it's almost totaled with that serious issue, he may as well pay me to take it.!!!!

Can I turbo my NA for under $100 :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

[BEJinFBK]

My master for the frnt pass door window will take it down but not up. It still comes up fine with the pass door switch. (and down for that matter). Since we are talking about parallel controls, with a center "neutral" position, you might rethink your assessment, BUBBA!!! No BUbba here DUDE!!!

These are switches are NOT wired in parallel. This circuit is just as I described it.

Look at the schematic. It's a circuit layout that 's been used in a ton of cars for decades.

Don't take my word for it. Ask anyone that's ever worked on power windows.

I am not just making this up. Really. Again, it's all there in the schematic.

And I didn't mean to piss you off with the bubba thing, it's just an expression, sir.

SWM? Please let us know what you find.

This should be a pretty easy fix.

Good Luck!