HoustonT5-R Posted February 29, 2008 Report Share Posted February 29, 2008 what do you mean? i see you have a 95, but why would you want to go to a 96 if you deleted the EGR? My 96 has an EGR, so if you wanted an ECU that wouldn't look for it, a 96 wouldn't work. I'm not sure i'm picking up what you're putting down.http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/index.php?showtopic=28681 My plugs are in good shape, pulled em a couple months ago to check compression. Not sure if they're gapped properly (i know one probably isn't, don't ask why ) what gap should i be running on my stock tune? I've seen tons of numbers for people pushing 15-17+psi, I think now my plugs are gapped at .033 or .032 or so (could be wrong my memory doesn't do numbers too well) should i go as low as like .028 or do i want to go bigger?Factory gap is .028", which mine all are. I checked them less than 2 weeks ago. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sconeman Posted February 29, 2008 Report Share Posted February 29, 2008 Factory gap is .028", which mine all are. I checked them less than 2 weeks ago.that's something I need to do. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seagrams Posted February 29, 2008 Author Report Share Posted February 29, 2008 so a 96 855R has no EGR? I was totally convinced that it did! that's good to know, one less PITA part to get to and test to see if it's boffing up my performance :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HoustonT5-R Posted February 29, 2008 Report Share Posted February 29, 2008 so a 96 855R has no EGR? I was totally convinced that it did! that's good to know, one less PITA part to get to and test to see if it's boffing up my performance There is a block-off plate in place of the EGR with a gasket sealing it. It is possible that the gasket is leaking, so don't rule it out 100%. However, I just put my block-off plate w/gasket on the car last week, so I an rule that out for me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seagrams Posted March 1, 2008 Author Report Share Posted March 1, 2008 There is a block-off plate in place of the EGR with a gasket sealing it. It is possible that the gasket is leaking, so don't rule it out 100%. However, I just put my block-off plate w/gasket on the car last week, so I an rule that out for me.great so i still have to get in there and check it out..... oh well, hopefully it won't be snowing too hard tomorrow and with the alfa in the shop, i have an extra bay, all i'll need is a propane heater and i can practically live in there! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seagrams Posted March 1, 2008 Author Report Share Posted March 1, 2008 well it's not the plugs, all are at .028 on the button. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HoustonT5-R Posted March 3, 2008 Report Share Posted March 3, 2008 so a 96 855R has no EGR? I was totally convinced that it did! that's good to know, one less PITA part to get to and test to see if it's boffing up my performance Well, after talking more with pops, it seems some of the '96 & '97 models can have EGR depending on which market they were originally intended for. If the car was destined to be sold in a place such as California, then it had EGR. I guess the only way to really tell is to reach underneath the throttle body and see if it's there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seagrams Posted March 9, 2008 Author Report Share Posted March 9, 2008 Well i think i have a lead.... While up at my indie the other day pulling the codes after i got my car running, i stumbled across an interesting one 4-1-4 boost pressure regulator.... perhaps my problem has been ECU related all along... i need to reconnect the BCS and see what my boost is at....Will Advise Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TRACStar Posted March 9, 2008 Report Share Posted March 9, 2008 if you have had this boost issue since you bought the car is it completely far fetched that you got shafted and whoever you bought the car from kept the R ecu for themselves?possibly gave you a t5 9.7 psi or maybe even a glt ecu 8 psi?check the number on your ecu but even if its right its really not hard to swap covers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seagrams Posted March 9, 2008 Author Report Share Posted March 9, 2008 if you have had this boost issue since you bought the car is it completely far fetched that you got shafted and whoever you bought the car from kept the R ecu for themselves?possibly gave you a t5 9.7 psi or maybe even a glt ecu 8 psi?check the number on your ecu but even if its right its really not hard to swap coversyea that was one of the first things i checked... and it's correct for an R.... i'd say it is fairly far fetched in that the guy i bought the car from is 150% trustworthy Suppose the covers were swapped as you say, how would i verify this? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TRACStar Posted March 10, 2008 Report Share Posted March 10, 2008 yea that was one of the first things i checked... and it's correct for an R.... i'd say it is fairly far fetched in that the guy i bought the car from is 150% trustworthy Suppose the covers were swapped as you say, how would i verify this?put your ecu in any other t5 850 and see what it boosts to, shoud work in a glt too i think but i could be wrong Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HoustonT5-R Posted March 10, 2008 Report Share Posted March 10, 2008 put your ecu in any other t5 850 and see what it boosts to, shoud work in a glt too i think but i could be wrongSeagrams has already mentioned that he doesn't have anyone to try swapping ECUs with Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EricF Posted March 10, 2008 Report Share Posted March 10, 2008 I still don't understand why you are racking your mind and resources so hard to fix something that really can be properly bandaid-ed? You can just leave a boost controller inline with the BCS and reach 11 or even 12 or 13 pounds of boost, and have a bigger smile on your face than if you had the stock boost level while still being perfectly reliable and safe. This is the performance forum, after all. I don't think I have ever had a stock turbo car reaching 9.6 psi exactly being just controlled by the ECU, I think there are more factors involved in the boost algorithm than most people here acknowledge. It just hurts my brain to see a bright individual trying to solve a problem that I think generally should be overlooked :P Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HoustonT5-R Posted March 10, 2008 Report Share Posted March 10, 2008 I still don't understand why you are racking your mind and resources so hard to fix something that really can be properly bandaid-ed?I'll pretend you didn't suggest that. <_< Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EricF Posted March 10, 2008 Report Share Posted March 10, 2008 I'll pretend you didn't suggest that. If it can't be positively identified as an actual problem, then it's kind of like chasing your tail. If it turns out that everything is right (I would suggest that you will never be able to properly test EVERYTHING), then you will either feel foolish for investing so much money and effort, or you will take pride in knowing that every small component in your vehicle is right. If this is all being done for the hopes of the latter, it is more of a maintenance issue. That said, I'll start to play the game like everyone else....Let's think about this logically, from the beginning. There is no boost sensor in the car, so it does not see a raw boost signal. Instead, Motronic calculates boost levels by an algorithm that takes into account MAF, TPS, RPM, and a couple of other crucial things which I cannot think of right now because I don't have my Motronic manual sitting in front of me. So, if it consistently boosts the same level which is not 10.5 psi, it either is withholding boost for some reason, or it believes it is actually achieving that boost level and either way is adjusting the duty cycle of the BCS valve accordingly. This assumes (which you have all but confirmed in what for me was a very painfully over-analytical look at a very simple part ) that the BCS is functioning properly. It is a simple device, you have been the first person on this board or in the world who has actually opened one up to examine the individual components within it, let's just say it works.Now, back to thinking about why the ECU is not giving the BCS the duty cycle required to obtain this boost, which is so easily obtained by other boost control methods. The ECU will lower the boost level if knock is detected. Let's start with this (yes yes it has already been addressed once or twice, but I am trying to be methodical in this post, and it will also help curb repetitive questions/suggestions for those who read the first and last post and say "check your hoses" and such). The ECU receives a signal from the knock sensor, this signal is either genuine in its origins or erroneous due to a malfunction or misreading. I am not a big fan of this theory because when the ECU cuts boost levels due to knock it will (pardon the pun) knock the boost down a little in response to a condition presumably caused by the original, higher, boost value. In this case, the 10.5 would be seen initially and then the knock sensors would start bitching and the boost would go down immediately. Knocking at 10.5 psi would indicate something very very wrong also. Again, not a big fan of this idea.I think we can safely say that this is not a corrective measure being put into effect. So rather, the ECU must believe that what it is doing is achieving the desired boost level. It is either being given improper information or is just stupid. Time to go home from work, I'll go through the list! Let's make frustration fun! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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