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Axle Replacment


akskibum82

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Greetings,

200K miles 850 turbo developed violent shaking habit under acceleration at 55 mph+

Volvo shop says front right axle has lots o play, totally leaked, left CV is leaking. Want $2500 to replace both hahaha

Anyone who's replaced this what would you go with? IPD and FCP have axles, as does Raxles.

I don't want some Chinese made POS that will give out in another 20K.

Thanks.

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Greetings,

200K miles 850 turbo developed violent shaking habit under acceleration at 55 mph+

Volvo shop says front right axle has lots o play, totally leaked, left CV is leaking. Want $2500 to replace both hahaha

Anyone who's replaced this what would you go with? IPD and FCP have axles, as does Raxles.

I don't want some Chinese made POS that will give out in another 20K.

Thanks.

If you want to save some $$$, goto Pepboys for FEMCO (Canada?) reman, about $75 each with core return, and they usually stock them, so no wait, no shipping. AutoZone has axle puller loaner. Finally, check you lower control arm/bj, this is a good time to replace them, oem is best, HT cost about half of oem but apparently doesn't last as long.

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I had both front assemblies just replaced.CV boots tore, due to age, and threw the grease out. Yes, could have rebuilt them, but so easy to just put in a new shaft. Went with FEQ by FCP Groton. I payed $75.00 each. I have had a few thousand miles on them and have had no negative issues.There is NO core exchange needed .I just ordered from FCP and here in 4 days.Went in fine.

There were earlier posts aboout DSS (Chinese) axles that FCP provided, but they are offering FEQ now.

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I just did my left axle. After a few days of reading on VS and Matthews, I went with FCP's FEQ.

No probs. Only time will tell on longevity

If I lived on the east coast, I probably would've gone with raxles

Are these the original OEM axles? If so be ready for a fight. Only when I got my mini-sledge out and used 2 hands,

did I break the hold the bearing hub had on the axle.

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I just did my left axle. After a few days of reading on VS and Matthews, I went with FCP's FEQ.

No probs. Only time will tell on longevity

If I lived on the east coast, I probably would've gone with raxles

Are these the original OEM axles? If so be ready for a fight. Only when I got my mini-sledge out and used 2 hands,

did I break the hold the bearing hub had on the axle.

I found that yelling "motherfarker" really load every so often helped too.

Gary

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Easiest way to get a driver axle out that you arent repairing is push it in to compress the cv joint then yank. It kinda acts like a slide hammer. Popped out every time for me. Dont worry about damaging a cv joint on an axle that you arent reusing anyway.

Gary

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QUOTE (matt b @ Feb 7 2008, 06:59 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Contact Serge (Liquidkernel), he'll have some good info to share with you, he's just gone through this BS on his 854.

Yes sir, I have suffered greatly having to remove my axle. Driver's side was a breeze, a year later I had to do my passenger side and I was in for a fight.

Go to any home improvement store or hardware store and get yourself a propane blow torch for $15. It'll be your new best friend. But before that, try the following:

* Soak the spline (part that goes into the wheel hub) with PB Blaster and a paper towel overnight. That may help loosen it up.

* Use a large hammer, don't be afraid to hit it hard.

If those don't work, take the propane torch and put it right where the axle spline is in the wheel hub. Let it get really hot. I got mine to nearly glowing red (took about 5 minutes). Then take your sledgehammer or another large hammer, and start hitting it. You will notice the tone of the impact start to get higher, that means it's coming out. A few more hits and it'll definitely pop out.

Once it's free and clear, drop the control arm and the axle should be free (if it's the passenger side, remove the bracket that holds it mid-way, much easier to access from under the car than from the wheel well).

Before putting your new axle in, remove all the rust and glue in the wheel hub. Use a small screwdriver to scrap out the gunk in the grooves. Prior to shoving the new axle in, put a good amount of antiseize grease on the spline. In the event you'll ever have to remove the axle again, it will easily slide out.

Best of luck.

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