Gilhuly Posted February 9, 2008 Report Share Posted February 9, 2008 Excellent advice. Be prepared to use heat if necessary. If you have a ball peen hammer they work well against the axle end while hitting the BP with another hammer so as not to hit the hub/bearing.Yes sir, I have suffered greatly having to remove my axle. Driver's side was a breeze, a year later I had to do my passenger side and I was in for a fight.Go to any home improvement store or hardware store and get yourself a propane blow torch for $15. It'll be your new best friend. But before that, try the following:* Soak the spline (part that goes into the wheel hub) with PB Blaster and a paper towel overnight. That may help loosen it up.* Use a large hammer, don't be afraid to hit it hard.If those don't work, take the propane torch and put it right where the axle spline is in the wheel hub. Let it get really hot. I got mine to nearly glowing red (took about 5 minutes). Then take your sledgehammer or another large hammer, and start hitting it. You will notice the tone of the impact start to get higher, that means it's coming out. A few more hits and it'll definitely pop out.Once it's free and clear, drop the control arm and the axle should be free (if it's the passenger side, remove the bracket that holds it mid-way, much easier to access from under the car than from the wheel well).Before putting your new axle in, remove all the rust and glue in the wheel hub. Use a small screwdriver to scrap out the gunk in the grooves. Prior to shoving the new axle in, put a good amount of antiseize grease on the spline. In the event you'll ever have to remove the axle again, it will easily slide out.Best of luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
poot850t Posted February 9, 2008 Report Share Posted February 9, 2008 I can't even remember what axles I got from FCP but I went to start taking them out and that's when it went downhill. First didn't have a 36mm socket and then my torch ran out of gas and didn't have any wd-40 or pb blaster. Then I couldn't get the damn nut off the axle no matter how much I cranked on it. Hit it with my impact gun, then busted out the breaker bar and some left over roll bar tubing that gave me about 3 feet of leverage. Only thing that moved was the breaker bar flexing. I just stopped cause I didn't want to snap my breaker bar. It's still on there to this day. Just curious if your changing your wheel bearing, can you just leave the axle in the hub and pull it out from the tranny and be done with it instead of beating it out of the hub? I realize you'll have to unbolt the lca to be able to get the room to slide it out but will it work? Both my axles and bearings are getting changed along with the lca's. Have all the parts just getting those nuts off is holding me back. I don't get home soon enough from work at night to quick run by a garage and have them hit the nut with a stronger impact gun to loosen it up for me. Anyone else have this kind of nightmare? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Guest Posted February 9, 2008 Report Share Posted February 9, 2008 autohaus az sells FEQ axles for 64 with free shipping. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt C. Posted February 10, 2008 Report Share Posted February 10, 2008 I spent most of the day wrestling with replacing my passenger side axle on my s70.Picked up a Chinese (GS-P) axle at Advance Auto Parts for $80.Every single friggin nut was like pulling teeth. It took me HOURS and PLENTY of PB to get the hub nut off! What finally did it for me was my impact wrench...with a 1-7/16" (3/4" drive reduced to 1/2" with an adaptor). I just held it in place for literally 5-10 minutes and let it rip...stopped...soaked with PB...waited 5 minutes...and repeated. IT WILL COME OFF EVENTUALLY. I have a nice breaker bar...but that didn't seem to be doing the trick.The bracket that holds the axle in place about halfway between the wheel and trans-axle came off fine. I also got the control arm (ball joint) retaining bolt off okay. The only think left (I think) is the sway bar. I cranked the wheel around as if I were making a sharp left turn and this gave me leeway to whack on the axle and pop it loose from the hub so I've got that done. How do I get the control arm detached - do I even need to? Can I just bang on it (downward) with a rubber mallet? Do I need to detach the sway bar? The top swaybar attachment is what I tried first and I got it to spin but it seems to be spining free now...and the backside is some kind of funky plastic cap so I have no way of bracing it. The lower sway bar nut is being very difficult.I'm hoping I can pry the end of the axle out of the trans-axle and get everything clear by pulling under the car and out the driver's side. Let me know if any of you can offer any advice!Here's another HOW-TO I referred to (also used a Chilton's).Purist Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scarywoody Posted February 11, 2008 Report Share Posted February 11, 2008 Hey I need new axles too After reading I'm kind of hesitant to buy the FEQ's from FCP. They are however seem to be the cheapest and the most accessible.The only issue with Eeuroparts is it states usually ships out between 10-14 days. I'd like them by this coming weekend.Does raxles.com get them out pretty quick? Anyone know how much these cost? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fudge_Brownie Posted February 11, 2008 Report Share Posted February 11, 2008 Autozone has both the tools below for free 'rental'These tools might help you avoid bringing a blow torch into the solution. They also rent the pickle forks you'll want to remove the tierods and balljoints with. Just make sure you don't shred up the boots if you plan to reuse them again. check for play in them before removing in case you want to replace those while you're in there. I've got CarQuest axles in my front, but I've only got ~6 months, maybe 5000 miles on them. So I can't vouch for their quality. I can say that I received two that were out of spec until finally getting one that fit VERY tightly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erikv11 Posted February 11, 2008 Report Share Posted February 11, 2008 Does raxles.com get them out pretty quick? Anyone know how much these cost?raxles.com is fast turnaround and high quality and you pay for it: $150 per axle. Call them up and ask is the best way to go if you want to by from them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DelawareT5M Posted February 14, 2008 Report Share Posted February 14, 2008 i just had this done about 2 weeks ago. my mechanic i go to told me that both my CV's were done and needed to be replaced. I went with a rebuild axel with new seals, lube and all the good stuff for $850.04. When i saw the bill my jaw dropped, and i kinda laughed too. $850 for a volvo 850 axel... imo 850 is too high a price, i realize i got ripped off to some degree, and listen to the guys on here go to the FC Groton site. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bum2kev Posted February 14, 2008 Report Share Posted February 14, 2008 even my dealership in the bay area charges half that price....for rebuilding both axles.....and this is the bay area. everything is expensive. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
akskibum82 Posted February 19, 2008 Author Report Share Posted February 19, 2008 Went with Raxles after much debate. Marty seems like a solid guy, the axles arrived quickly. Will see how the install goes this week. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chilled man Posted February 19, 2008 Report Share Posted February 19, 2008 Personally i think your all little girls for having such a problem getting the axle out . All it takes is a little tub and they fall out. Just pulled then ones in the car I am parting and they came out in two seconds. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
akskibum82 Posted February 20, 2008 Author Report Share Posted February 20, 2008 Final update:Raxles arrived, they appear to be a HD product and they fit perfectly on the car. This is a solid dealer, he even gives you gloves to work with and directions to the nearest UPS store for the core return. I'd go with this guy again, even for the price.on a side note: "Goat sucker" pinche puto baboso si no tienes algo para anadir a la conversacion no hay k escribir, mamon! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chilled man Posted February 20, 2008 Report Share Posted February 20, 2008 on a side note: "Goat sucker" pinche puto baboso si no tienes algo para anadir a la conversacion no hay k escribir, mamon! English man English . :D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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