Cal3thousand Posted March 3, 2008 Report Share Posted March 3, 2008 Ok,So this stalling issue that I have been dealing with has led me to believe that MAF sensor wiring is faulty:1) Code P0103 - MAF signal high (persistent)2) Used Scan tool (Auterra Dyno-Scan) and read live parameters, MAF was reading 200 gm/s at idle, WAY too much. New MAF, same thing.3) Tested MAF connector #1 to ground and found resistance above zero Ohms, (about .5 Ohms but fluctuated higher up to 100 Ohms)So,My question is... What is involved in testing the whole wire back to the ECU (or should/can I test ECU?), AND how would i replace such a beast?ANY SUGGESTIONS/IDEAS ARE WELCOME AND APPRECIATED. At this point, I'll even take smartass conjecture Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted March 3, 2008 Report Share Posted March 3, 2008 Ok,So this stalling issue that I have been dealing with has led me to believe that MAF sensor wiring is faulty:1) Code P0103 - MAF signal high (persistent)2) Used Scan tool (Auterra Dyno-Scan) and read live parameters, MAF was reading 200 gm/s at idle, WAY too much. New MAF, same thing.3) Tested MAF connector #1 to ground and found resistance above zero Ohms, (about .5 Ohms but fluctuated higher up to 100 Ohms)So,My question is... What is involved in testing the whole wire back to the ECU (or should/can I test ECU?), AND how would i replace such a beast?ANY SUGGESTIONS/IDEAS ARE WELCOME AND APPRECIATED. At this point, I'll even take smartass conjectureI'd start by replacing the pin terminals. Just as likely that the issue is right there - unless your harness is exposed/chafing, it's the terminals that usually go bad. Volvo sells the correct pins, you just need a euro-style crimp tool, then solder the connections. When you're checking resistance, you should peel back the rubber boot & check on the backside of the connector where it's crimped to the actual wire for comparsion. When you're done, use some Volvo lo-temp electric contact grease on the terminals. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cal3thousand Posted March 3, 2008 Author Report Share Posted March 3, 2008 I'd start by replacing the pin terminals. Just as likely that the issue is right there - unless your harness is exposed/chafing, it's the terminals that usually go bad. Volvo sells the correct pins, you just need a euro-style crimp tool, then solder the connections. When you're checking resistance, you should peel back the rubber boot & check on the backside of the connector where it's crimped to the actual wire for comparsion. When you're done, use some Volvo lo-temp electric contact grease on the terminals.Alright! Feedback! My harness doesn't look bad... the outer jacket is without external signs of damage... Ok So, I will peel back the boot and check the resistance before the crimp when I get home.What is a Euro-style crimp tool and how do i get one? fleabay?Thanks again for the advice... now I know, and knowing is half the battle :lol: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 850T-5 Posted March 3, 2008 Report Share Posted March 3, 2008 might sound kind of silly but maybe try cleaning the connector with some electronics parts cleaner and a toothbrush. also, if you used dielelectric grease, DONT. believe it or not it, although it is "not supposed to", it can cause conductivity issues. maybe try taking a tiny tiny flat blade screw driver and carefully bend each terminal side inward some so you get a good tight connection. the cleaning and tightening up the terminal connections never hurts. also make sure ALL of the grounds are clean and tight (battery grounds, grounds near the battery, engine grounds), probably not related but strange things can happen when things aren't grounded properly. "generally" the wiring just doesn't go bad unless someone thrashed it. also, also sounds silly but make sure your coil wire and cam sensor wire DO NOT cross the AMM wire because I've heard they can cause some interference in some cases. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cal3thousand Posted March 3, 2008 Author Report Share Posted March 3, 2008 might sound kind of silly but maybe try cleaning the connector with some electronics parts cleaner and a toothbrush. also, if you used dielelectric grease, DONT. believe it or not it, although it is "not supposed to", it can cause conductivity issues. maybe try taking a tiny tiny flat blade screw driver and carefully bend each terminal side inward some so you get a good tight connection. the cleaning and tightening up the terminal connections never hurts. also make sure ALL of the grounds are clean and tight (battery grounds, grounds near the battery, engine grounds), probably not related but strange things can happen when things aren't grounded properly. "generally" the wiring just doesn't go bad unless someone thrashed it. also, also sounds silly but make sure your coil wire and cam sensor wire DO NOT cross the AMM wire because I've heard they can cause some interference in some cases.I checked the MAF connector initially and did find dirty old dielectric grease. Cleaned it out and even lightly filed the connections. which led me to testing and finding too much resistance in connector #1.Good to hear that the wiring generally doesn't go bad unless monkeyed up. So, next step i guess is to do what 'lookforjoe' said.But where do i get a crimper? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cal3thousand Posted March 3, 2008 Author Report Share Posted March 3, 2008 I'm just linking the other thread I had about this issue during its infancy for future searchers.Click for link to P0103 backstory Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cal3thousand Posted March 4, 2008 Author Report Share Posted March 4, 2008 Back for an update, I moved the rubber boot down and backprobed the connector and tested the #1 slot again, I got a resistance of .1 Ohms, thats way less than at the connector terminal. But that could be that I am doing it wrong. I just stuck a probe as far as it would go under the blue "stuff" along the wire. Is that the way to do it?If so, and the connector is bad, how do I replace it? Any ideas? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VolvoS70SS Posted March 4, 2008 Report Share Posted March 4, 2008 Back for an update, I moved the rubber boot down and backprobed the connector and tested the #1 slot again, I got a resistance of .1 Ohms, thats way less than at the connector terminal. But that could be that I am doing it wrong. I just stuck a probe as far as it would go under the blue "stuff" along the wire. Is that the way to do it?If so, and the connector is bad, how do I replace it? Any ideas?Solder a new one, dont know about the euro crimping tool, you could also have issues at the other end of the wire, check the pin-outs on the ecu side Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cal3thousand Posted March 4, 2008 Author Report Share Posted March 4, 2008 Solder a new one, dont know about the euro crimping tool, you could also have issues at the other end of the wire, check the pin-outs on the ecu side1) Where would I get a 'new' connector to solder? Is it feasible to use one from a donor vehicle? and how do I check the ECU pinout? should I check for continuity from the ECU at slot A3 to the MAF connector #1? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted March 4, 2008 Report Share Posted March 4, 2008 Volvo dealer should sell the contact pins. There is a small tang at the base of the connector that retains it in the housing. There are special tools for releasing them, but a straightend paper clip should do. Get the new connectors first, then you can see what I'm referring to.You absolutely DO want to use the appropriate Volvo electric grease, not a generic di-electric compound, it's there for a reason.Euro-style crimp tools roll the crimp tabs in, US-style just flatten the connector, hard to describe if you've not used one before.I got mine from Wurth, don't know if Sears, etc., sell them or not. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cal3thousand Posted March 4, 2008 Author Report Share Posted March 4, 2008 Volvo dealer should sell the contact pins. There is a small tang at the base of the connector that retains it in the housing. There are special tools for releasing them, but a straightend paper clip should do. Get the new connectors first, then you can see what I'm referring to.You absolutely DO want to use the appropriate Volvo electric grease, not a generic di-electric compound, it's there for a reason.Euro-style crimp tools roll the crimp tabs in, US-style just flatten the connector, hard to describe if you've not used one before.I got mine from Wurth, don't know if Sears, etc., sell them or not.Have you bought one of these connectors before? I just called the dealer and they have no idea WTF i am talking about. They want 1400 list for the whole harness . He said he'd give me a break and make it 1200 :lol: . So, I can release that one wire from the terminal end side with a paper clip? What then? Do i just pull on the wire from the back and the contact pin will follow? I see this blue stuff that seems like a dust boot, does that just slide out too?Sorry if I have so many questions, I just want to get my baby back and not destroy anything in the process. Another idea, please validate, can i just get a connector from a wreck and carefully wire solder them? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cal3thousand Posted March 4, 2008 Author Report Share Posted March 4, 2008 Found one online, I think:Check it out... does it look right?Link for larger 'Receptacle Terminal'Link for second image Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted March 4, 2008 Report Share Posted March 4, 2008 Have you bought one of these connectors before? I just called the dealer and they have no idea WTF i am talking about. They want 1400 list for the whole harness . He said he'd give me a break and make it 1200 :lol: . So, I can release that one wire from the terminal end side with a paper clip? What then? Do i just pull on the wire from the back and the contact pin will follow? I see this blue stuff that seems like a dust boot, does that just slide out too?Sorry if I have so many questions, I just want to get my baby back and not destroy anything in the process. Another idea, please validate, can i just get a connector from a wreck and carefully wire solder them?I have to stop @ my dealer - I'll take a look on their system - there should be a page with electrical connectors & housings.Failing that, you could cut the entire housing with pigtails from a wreck, just be sure to solder & shrink wrap the connections. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cal3thousand Posted March 4, 2008 Author Report Share Posted March 4, 2008 I have to stop @ my dealer - I'll take a look on their system - there should be a page with electrical connectors & housings.Failing that, you could cut the entire housing with pigtails from a wreck, just be sure to solder & shrink wrap the connections.PLEASE do... I would immensely appreciate it. Here's a link from Wurth with what looks like some of the the right stuff, now which to order? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cal3thousand Posted March 4, 2008 Author Report Share Posted March 4, 2008 I took a look at Wurth's catalog, they have some "L" Jetronic fuel injector harnesses with a part that looks like it could be the one. Whatcha think (circled)? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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