lookforjoe Posted March 4, 2008 Report Share Posted March 4, 2008 HiVolvo has the connectors - they're a buck or so... the blue boot is a rubber seal that is crimped with the wire to keep moisture out.9168948 boot30656686 connectorthis is what the crimp tool jaws look like..I would go this route rather than use a pigtail. If you look @ my pic, you can see the volvo connector has a reinforcing spring steel sleeve that the generic Wurth ones don't have, you need to be sure to have the optimum connection. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cal3thousand Posted March 4, 2008 Author Report Share Posted March 4, 2008 HiVolvo has the connectors - they're a buck or so... the blue boot is a rubber seal that is crimped with the wire to keep moisture out.9168948 boot30656686 connectorthis is what the crimp tool jaws look like..I would go this route rather than use a pigtail. If you look @ my pic, you can see the volvo connector has a reinforcing spring steel sleeve that the generic Wurth ones don't have, you need to be sure to have the optimum connection.OMG, you are the MAN!just called the dealership and they have to order it. At least with the number (thanks again!) they know what we are looking at.And the pic of the crimper is KEY. I'm such a visual learner. I'm going to find one online right now.Jeez, now I hope this connector was really the problem. If not, I'll feel like a major :monkey: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted March 4, 2008 Report Share Posted March 4, 2008 OMG, you are the MAN!just called the dealership and they have to order it. At least with the number (thanks again!) they know what we are looking at.And the pic of the crimper is KEY. I'm such a visual learner. I'm going to find one online right now.Jeez, now I hope this connector was really the problem. If not, I'll feel like a major With resistance value differentials that you gave from the connector, and then from the backside, there definitely is a problem with yours. Hopefully that's all it is. Just pull one at a time, to make sure they go back in the correct order, or take a clear picture of the color wire/sequencing in the connector to work from. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cal3thousand Posted March 4, 2008 Author Report Share Posted March 4, 2008 Just have to add this for any future searchers in the LA area:Volvo Santa Monica: very nice, WAY over priced, wanted twice as much as othersVolvo Culver City (Formerly Westside Volvo), bunch of douches in the parts dept won't take my credit card to order it, said I HAVE TO come in to order it and prepay. I'm at work, now my pregnant wife has to waddle (j/k) over there and order it.EDIT: wife's off the hook for now: Power Volvo South Bay, nice guys, good price, worked hard to earn my piddly $15 and $5 of that was freight. My hat's off to them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cal3thousand Posted March 5, 2008 Author Report Share Posted March 5, 2008 I still can't find a source for a crimping tool Anyone got a source for me? ... please? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cal3thousand Posted March 6, 2008 Author Report Share Posted March 6, 2008 Update:Found a crimping tool and ordered it. These crimps are referred as open barrel and the cheapest tool I found was called a T-11. Hope it works.On another note, I pulled the ECU out to test the resistance in the line to the MAF connector #1 from the ECU A3 connector and saw a .1 Ohm resistance. Does that conflict with my suspicions? Anyone?Now, if this shows that the connections are OK, does that mean my ECU is shot?Anyone got a spare turbo ECU they want to loan (read: rent out) or sell? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted March 6, 2008 Report Share Posted March 6, 2008 .1 ohm from the backside of the maf connector to the ECU connector? That's fine - there will always be some resistance in the wiring. As a cross-check, take a 2 foot piece of small gauge wire & see what you get resistance -wise on that. Every meter can have a minor discrepancy, too.The measure you need to stick with is the resistance differential between ground & the front side of the pin connector, and the ground- to back side of the connector. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cal3thousand Posted March 6, 2008 Author Report Share Posted March 6, 2008 .1 ohm from the backside of the maf connector to the ECU connector? That's fine - there will always be some resistance in the wiring. As a cross-check, take a 2 foot piece of small gauge wire & see what you get resistance -wise on that. Every meter can have a minor discrepancy, too.The measure you need to stick with is the resistance differential between ground & the front side of the pin connector, and the ground- to back side of the connector.No, I got .1 ohm from the front side of the MAF connector and the ECU connector. That's what stumped me. Somehow, I feel that this contradicts the .5 Ohms I was getting in the whole circuit from front of MAF connector to battery ground with the ECU in place. I may be missing something here though.Can this mean that the resistance found was in the ECU somewhere? I am so confuxed now. EDIT: I have some time to do more stuff tonight, I will try to slip the connector out the back again tonight. This morning, I couldn't figure out how to use the safety pin to release the mechanism. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted March 7, 2008 Report Share Posted March 7, 2008 No, I got .1 ohm from the front side of the MAF connector and the ECU connector. That's what stumped me. Somehow, I feel that this contradicts the .5 Ohms I was getting in the whole circuit from front of MAF connector to battery ground with the ECU in place. I may be missing something here though.Can this mean that the resistance found was in the ECU somewhere? I am so confuxed now. EDIT: I have some time to do more stuff tonight, I will try to slip the connector out the back again tonight. This morning, I couldn't figure out how to use the safety pin to release the mechanism. The way you check has to remain constant, that's all I'm saying. If you're checking at one end of the harness, it may not be the same resistances as at the other end, and it certainly won't be the same if the ECU is plugged in.My understanding of what you were doing was checking from the front of the connector to ground vs back of the connector to ground. Checking from the front of the connector vs. checking from the ECU pin to ground is not the same thing, neither is checking the resistance of the the harness wire from pin to pin. If that was your last test, you would need to check from the backside of both pins on the same wire to determine if there is a variation in resistance in the wire vs. wire +pins. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cal3thousand Posted March 10, 2008 Author Report Share Posted March 10, 2008 The way you check has to remain constant, that's all I'm saying. If you're checking at one end of the harness, it may not be the same resistances as at the other end, and it certainly won't be the same if the ECU is plugged in.My understanding of what you were doing was checking from the front of the connector to ground vs back of the connector to ground. Checking from the front of the connector vs. checking from the ECU pin to ground is not the same thing, neither is checking the resistance of the the harness wire from pin to pin. If that was your last test, you would need to check from the backside of both pins on the same wire to determine if there is a variation in resistance in the wire vs. wire +pins.This weekend, I got in there and tested the back sides of the wires to ground and got the same readings as the front, so I don't think that it was the connector now. I also put in what was supposed to be a new MAF. The old MAF, as you may remember, was putting out 208.39 gm/s (I can get this number to repeat) while the new one reads 60-100 gm/s fairly consistently. What does that mean with these MAFs? Old one is real bad and the new one is "less" bad? Or old one is bad AND I have a wire issue? BTW, the repair terminals came in and they are already crimped to a 8" section of blue wire. Weird. And all of this after I bought an open barrel crimper. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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