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Maf Sensor Cleaning


RockyXL

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Reading about what pawn256 did to clean the MAF sensor, I was motivated to do mine once I noticed a slightly rough idle. (I think I over-oiled my K&N a few thousand miles ago.)

His tutorial may be found at http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/index.php?showtopic=46991. It is a maintenance topic that is included in a sticky in this forum.

When I was removing my MAF, I noticed a couple things that I thought i should share:

Firstly, because the MAF sensor itself is bolted in by what looks like a torx, but is actually a 5-armed star similar but unlike a torx, I was forced to remove the whole piece of tubing that held the MAF sensor:

maf2.jpg

In the above photo, you will also notice that the MAF sensor does not contain a "delicate wire" as shown by pawn256; my MAF sensor was instead (what looked like) an electronic chip. I was taking pictures with my iphone so it was difficult to get the lighting right to take an angled shot of the chip. I guess the point here is that you don't have to be as cautious with these newer/different MAF sensors.

maf.jpg

Anyways, once that piece was removed from here:

openfilter.jpg

I proceeded to clean it with this:

mafcrc.jpg

and by clean i pretty much just mean spray, spray and walk away...to let it dry for about 10 minutes.

Anyways, just wanted to share two key points:

1. The MAF sensor may not be a thin-wire as previously mentioned, and may not have to be dealt with with such TLC.

2. Instead of removing the sensor itself, you can clean it effectively by removing the piece of tubing that it is nested in.

post-15999-1205366417_thumb.jpg

post-15999-1205366441_thumb.jpg

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Firstly, because the MAF sensor itself is bolted in by what looks like a torx, but is actually a 5-armed star similar but unlike a torx ...

Unless someone put something bizarre in your car, actually it is a torx bolt, technically it is called a "security torx". It is modified (there is a pin in the middle) to prevent people from accidentally removing and ruining sensitive parts.

The sockets for removing these are appropriately called security torx bits. If you buy a good quality security torx set, you can also use it for regular torx bolts and have yourself covered. Or just get regular torx bit set and add in security torx that fit the MAF and ABS, those are the only ones I know of on these cars.

... The MAF sensor may not be a thin-wire as previously mentioned, and may not have to be dealt with with such TLC.

just want to add to this in case people misunderstand you: While the flate plate is sturdier than the wire, even if the MAF is the flate plate style you should be extremely careful with it - don't touch the plate or let it get scratched by anything etc. Just spray and allow to air dry, then put it back in.

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Unless someone put something bizarre in your car, actually it is a torx bolt, technically it is called a "security torx". It is modified (there is a pin in the middle) to prevent people from accidentally removing and ruining sensitive parts.

The sockets for removing these are appropriately called security torx bits. If you buy a good quality security torx set, you can also use it for regular torx bolts and have yourself covered. Or just get regular torx bit set and add in security torx that fit the MAF and ABS, those are the only ones I know of on these cars.

just want to add to this in case people misunderstand you: While the flate plate is sturdier than the wire, even if the MAF is the flate plate style you should be extremely careful with it - don't touch the plate or let it get scratched by anything etc. Just spray and allow to air dry, then put it back in.

Funny thing, cuz my MAF has a tighten (clockwise) only fastener. I had to dremel a slot in each one for some flat head action.

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Reading about what pawn256 did to clean the MAF sensor, I was motivated to do mine once I noticed a slightly rough idle. (I think I over-oiled my K&N a few thousand miles ago.)

His tutorial may be found at http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/index.php?showtopic=46991. It is a maintenance topic that is included in a sticky in this forum.

When I was removing my MAF, I noticed a couple things that I thought i should share:

Firstly, because the MAF sensor itself is bolted in by what looks like a torx, but is actually a 5-armed star similar but unlike a torx, I was forced to remove the whole piece of tubing that held the MAF sensor:

maf2.jpg

In the above photo, you will also notice that the MAF sensor does not contain a "delicate wire" as shown by pawn256; my MAF sensor was instead (what looked like) an electronic chip. I was taking pictures with my iphone so it was difficult to get the lighting right to take an angled shot of the chip. I guess the point here is that you don't have to be as cautious with these newer/different MAF sensors.

maf.jpg

Anyways, once that piece was removed from here:

openfilter.jpg

I proceeded to clean it with this:

mafcrc.jpg

and by clean i pretty much just mean spray, spray and walk away...to let it dry for about 10 minutes.

Anyways, just wanted to share two key points:

1. The MAF sensor may not be a thin-wire as previously mentioned, and may not have to be dealt with with such TLC.

2. Instead of removing the sensor itself, you can clean it effectively by removing the piece of tubing that it is nested in.

post-15999-1205366417_thumb.jpg

post-15999-1205366441_thumb.jpg

Any difference at idle speed after cleaning the MAF sensor ?

Ching-Ho Cheng

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Unless someone put something bizarre in your car, actually it is a torx bolt, technically it is called a "security torx". It is modified (there is a pin in the middle) to prevent people from accidentally removing and ruining sensitive parts.

The sockets for removing these are appropriately called security torx bits. If you buy a good quality security torx set, you can also use it for regular torx bolts and have yourself covered. Or just get regular torx bit set and add in security torx that fit the MAF and ABS, those are the only ones I know of on these cars.

just want to add to this in case people misunderstand you: While the flate plate is sturdier than the wire, even if the MAF is the flate plate style you should be extremely careful with it - don't touch the plate or let it get scratched by anything etc. Just spray and allow to air dry, then put it back in.

Well, I have a security torx set--it's the only set i have. they are the 6 armed stars with a hole in the middle. the bolts that fastened my MAF in the plastic piece are actually 5-armed stars as mentioned with the hole in the middle like a security torx. I can show you a picture of it once i get home.

and yes, i didn't mean to say that the chip style MAF sensor is indestructable--just wanted to mention that it's not a filament.

Any difference at idle speed after cleaning the MAF sensor ?

Ching-Ho Cheng

Yeah, my idle is a lot cleaner now. I noticed small oscillations between the 0.8K and 1K RPM on my meter previous to my cleaning of it. The car also seems to boost better in 2nd gear as well.

My interest in maintaining the MAF came from my boost being completely cut off during a long road trip from Portland, OR to Los Angeles, CA. I was doing about 80 on the freeway when I suddenly lost all boost. Hopefully regular cleaning of the MAF will lengthen its overall lifespan, and offer a quick-fix while on the road...easier to carry around a $5 can of cleaner than always keep a $150 piece on hand.

For those of you who use K&Ns, how many coats do you put on the filter?

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i have a K&N Cone filter and I do not remember using any OIL..

The filters come preoiled from the factory but when you clean it you need to re oil it using their cleaning kit (the oil on the filter helps the dirt to stick to it and not flow through into your engine.)

If you buy the cleaning kit from K&N it'll tell you how to do it and i think they have instructions on their website...

Without looking, i'd say one coat is enough, but i haven't cleaned mine yet, i'd try not to over oil it tho....

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The filters come preoiled from the factory but when you clean it you need to re oil it using their cleaning kit (the oil on the filter helps the dirt to stick to it and not flow through into your engine.)

If you buy the cleaning kit from K&N it'll tell you how to do it and i think they have instructions on their website...

Without looking, i'd say one coat is enough, but i haven't cleaned mine yet, i'd try not to over oil it tho....

if you follow their directions, they tell you to grossly over oil it. the 'official' directions tell you to saturate the filter until it's pink on both sides, i think. whereas users that i have talked to (mostly volvo drivers) suggest to put 1-2 light coats on the underside of the panel filter (outer side of the CAI).

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yeah.... i never oiled mine... I wash it in water with a hose and let it dry then put it back in :)

It's suppose to be oiled after you wash it out and it dries. If you read the box or instructions when installing it the first time, you would have known this. Or better yet, the box states that it is "Pre-oiled", common sense telling you it would need to be re-oiled once washed.

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lol water? i dont think i'd ever be able to just flush water through it and call it good. i think the solution that they give does a good job of separating all the dirt and grime from the filter...and i think a light coat of oil does a good job of making sure that the fine particulate matter doesn't enter your engine...

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nah, I will keep doing what I am doing

Well, then stop bitching in thread after thread about your car not running right or the idle is messed up. Water alone won't clean the crap caught in the filter, you need to use a cleaner on it. Either the cleaner that comes with the K&N kit or Formula 409 will work, then you rinse with water. A light coating of the oil does help to prevent the small particles from getting through the filter.

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Well, then stop bitching in thread after thread about your car not running right or the idle is messed up. Water alone won't clean the crap caught in the filter, you need to use a cleaner on it. Either the cleaner that comes with the K&N kit or Formula 409 will work, then you rinse with water. A light coating of the oil does help to prevent the small particles from getting through the filter.

the reason I am bitching has nothing to do with the filter and the filter is not causing the idle issue junk face :lol:

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