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Control Arms Report


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I got the HT's off E-Bay and installed them myself, tightened when the car was on the ground. Installed them in Jan. of 07. Have approx.18,000 plus on them with no issues at all. But like an earlier post, I live in So. Cal. with pretty decent roads.

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You are going to get thousand of opinions on this. You obviously cant go wrong with OE. I chose not to spend that much and went HT on all 4 of mine. I have had 0 issues in two years with them. I would buy HT again without hesitation.

Gary

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Ok.. started to get some good information here. Especially that we are moving towards location/condition based durability. I live in LA, so the streets are good and bad. But I don't have to deal with the freezing temperatures and salted roads.

I might try the TRW route, many of the beemer guys are trying them with success.

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Ok.. started to get some good information here. Especially that we are moving towards location/condition based durability. I live in LA, so the streets are good and bad. But I don't have to deal with the freezing temperatures and salted roads.

I might try the TRW route, many of the beemer guys are trying them with success.

Where in LA do you live or drive the most?

If you are going with TRW, might as well go with OEM Volvo arms as they are about the same price.

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I wish I had service records to document things but my son and I changed out both of his control arms today and the sway bar end link on the passenger's side. Got the motor mount as well. This was a $500 eBay car that I drug home from Chicago on a Uhaul trailer. When I got it home it wouldn't make it around the block with out dying but after tightening the secondary negative battery cable it hasn't quit since.

The passenger's side arm and the drivers side arm were quite different. The driver's side was an OEM Volvo part and at 135k miles it was a tad sloppy - I'm going to guess it came from the factory. The sway bar end link also appeared to be OEM Volvo and it was in good shape so I just left it. It could have been changed somewhere along the line. I bought both so I have a spare if needed for either car.

The passenger's side was not OEM - I am going to make a guess that it was a ScanTech. The ball joint had at least 1/4" of play in any direction and the rubber in the bushings fell out in pieces as we removed it. The passengers side end link was not OEM (again I have no idea what supplier they came from - but I can guess) and it had come completely apart.

Here is an old picture of the end link. Ignore the massive oil leak - I think we found it today and we at least slowed it down - the oil pan bolts were loose. I am guessing that I need to buy the liquid gasket material and the sump kit and pull the pan next week but at least the Arabs quit fighting over his parking space. :D

swaybarlinkai7.th.jpg

I replaced both control arms with OEM at the higher price from FCP but I was very tempted to buy what is advertised as Febi Bilstein parts at eEuroparts. My fear was that some ScanTechs or something else would show up instead and I would eat the freight returning them.

At the end of the day I can only conclude that the OEM (Original?) part on the driver's side was in much better shape than the unknown aftermarket part after many more miles.

The only other conclusion is that the salt in Chicago on the roads is worse than Kansas City Salt and spraying off the crap under the car is a good idea. My not so small, left guard, son and I were using a 5 foot pipe to bust the bolts free after the corrosion set in.

...Lee

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Where in LA do you live or drive the most?

If you are going with TRW, might as well go with OEM Volvo arms as they are about the same price.

My commute starts in the Marina and ends in Westwood. So the crappiest part of the 405 basically. Where can I get the OEMs for 80 each?

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replaced at 138k

Hamburg-Technic, FCPgroton, I forget how much

I installed, car on ground before tightening.

At 163k, after replacing inner and outer tie rods, I noticed some wander in my steering. So I checked the control arms, ball joints bad on both sides. Bushings are still fine. So are bad at 25k / 2.5 years. Bought OEM replacements waiting for spring to install.

additional comments: savings with HT isn't worth the hassle.

All my steering parts are new (TRW); I considered TRW arms but just went with genuine Volvo to be sure.

Car on ground before tightening, that is key!

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My commute starts in the Marina and ends in Westwood. So the crappiest part of the 405 basically. Where can I get the OEMs for 80 each?

You can't!

This place claims to sell OEM parts and the pricing is great and shipping is free over $50.00. I needed a whole PCV system and some motor mounts as well and wound up buying it all from Groton.

Volvo Parts Club

They claim these are OEM parts but I would make a phone call to make sure.

...Lee

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You can't!

This place claims to sell OEM parts and the pricing is great and shipping is free over $50.00. I needed a whole PCV system and some motor mounts as well and wound up buying it all from Groton.

Volvo Parts Club

They claim these are OEM parts but I would make a phone call to make sure.

...Lee

Lee, I asked them this specific question and I was told that all parts are genuine volvo.

Here is what Greg told me:

"I am on my way out to lunch i have printed your request and i will check all the prices and get right back with you on this.

And yes ALL of our parts are Genuine Volvo parts from Volvo. Not a aftermarket companty.

Greg"

As I mentioned in a few days I will get my order and will give you guys an update.

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