850 Timing Belt & Headgasket

[Skrill]

I just bought a 1995 850 turbo and it can use a head gasket before it blows and I want to do the timing belt at the same time so I don't have to go back in there anytime soon and to ensure that its done sense I don't know when it was changed last. I ordered a new headgasket, head bolts, timing belt, and timing belt acessories (pulleys etc) from fcp groton and plan to change both the timing belt and head gasket in one shot. I bought the haynes manual to help guide me through this but I am just wondering if you guys have any tips or tricks to getting this job done easily and sucessfully. I am wondering what the failure rate on the oem water pumps is so I can decide if its 100% necessary to swap that out at the same time. Another question is if I have not blown the head gasket to where its overheating or anything is it necessary to get the head resurfaced and if so how much should I look to pay for that service. I am basically just looking for any sugestions on tools I should use or procedures I should follow or things I should avoid or watch out for etc before I dive into this. This is my daily so I would like to get it done in the least amount of time possible. Thanks in advance!

[54MEB]

When I did my head (burned Valve) it was about time for a T belt (120,000) so I did the water pump while I was in there. I don't know of any tips to give you other than good luck. I have the Chiltons book and it was okay but for most of the woork I just went off experience. I didn't need any of the "special" tools they say you need. Just check the head with a strait edge when you get it off to see if its twisted or warped. I'm curious why you think you need a head gasket?

[Keaton85]

You left out the only thing that matters in your whole post! Miles! Also unless you over heated the engine over and over again or that there is some other reason that you know the head gasket is toast its pointless to replace it. Also you really dont need new head bolts if this is the cars first HG. Also you should have bought an OEM HG, as the aftermarket ones are not that great. You SHOULD know everything I'm telling you right now if you did a little research!

[Skrill]

thanks guys, the reason I suspect the headgasket it going is that theres white smoke coming from the exhaust and when I check the oil the dipstick comes up with some white puss looking stuff on it with the oil and the top of the dipstick tube has the same puss like white stuff in it. I really hope its not the headgasket, I mean as long as I have had the car it hasent overheated once and hasent even gotten close to overheating but I didn't want to count it out. I have 147k miles.

[54MEB]

If you're not loosing coolant then my first guess would be to check your PCV system. White smoke is common with a fouled PCV system as well as condensation in the crank case.

[Skrill]

If you're not loosing coolant then my first guess would be to check your PCV system. White smoke is common with a fouled PCV system as well as condensation in the crank case.

ok what should I check on the system in particular?

[7 VII 7]

If you're not loosing coolant then my first guess would be to check your PCV system. White smoke is common with a fouled PCV system as well as condensation in the crank case.

+1

this is all common when you need to get your PCV replaced/cleaned out.... 100k is the magic number for this level

[GP850T]

+1 to the PCV replacement theres a nice write up by Zimbo, secondly do an oil change alot of members have had this so called milky oil (myself included) i just changed the o ring around the dipstick to stop condensation from getting inside the oil, if you do short trips with your car that could be a reason for the milkly residue

Also do a search for stage-0

[Skrill]

+1 to the PCV replacement theres a nice write up by Zimbo, secondly do an oil change alot of members have had this so called milky oil (myself included) i just changed the o ring around the dipstick to stop condensation from getting inside the oil, if you do short trips with your car that could be a reason for the milkly residue

Also do a search for stage-0

I did an oil change last week and I have read up on stage zero already.

[Keaton85]

Ok, just like i said if you had done some research you would have found that the white stuff on the dipstick is just from condensation since you live in a cold climate. I have the same thing on my dipstick when i check my oil up in Maine. These cars dont just blow head gaskets, they rarely ever have an issue with the gasket. As for you timing belt, you need to replace the belt and pulleys every 70K miles and the hydraulic tensioner should be replaced every other belt change thus every 140K miles, same with the water pump. Although you can go more with the hydraulic tensioner and the water pump but thats just up to you.

So right now you are way over due for a timing belt change!!

[Skrill]

Ok, just like i said if you had done some research you would have found that the white stuff on the dipstick is just from condensation since you live in a cold climate. I have the same thing on my dipstick when i check my oil up in Maine. These cars dont just blow head gaskets, they rarely ever have an issue with the gasket. As for you timing belt, you need to replace the belt and pulleys every 70K miles and the hydraulic tensioner should be replaced every other belt change thus every 140K miles, same with the water pump. Although you can go more with the hydraulic tensioner and the water pump but thats just up to you.

So right now you are way over due for a timing belt change!!

don't just assume I do not do any research, I have been researching every day and I have met some very helpful people on this site and others but its still alot to take in all at once, I am sorry if I am not up to your personal standards yet but please stop trying to belittle me by making remarks regarding my research, I have alot more going on in my life right now including the passing of my father than a god damn 14 year old volvo. with that said the timing belt was done at 90k so it won't be due until 160k but thanks for your concern.

[7 VII 7]

I think a PCV should be added to a stage Zero

do the Stage Zero and PCV and you will be fine.

an easy way to check your PCV is to turn on the car and let it heat up to normal temp

then pull the dipstick tube and see if there is white smoke coming out of it... or you can put a klennex over it to see if it blows the klennex up

you can also take off your spark plug cover with T30 screwdriver and see if there is oil in your little wells near your spark plugs.

also if you do not fix your pCV you will might have a blown RMS (rear main seal) and start to loose oil.. that is a very expensive process since it costs nothing uncer $700 to fix.

[Keaton85]

don't just assume I do not do any research, I have been researching every day and I have met some very helpful people on this site and others but its still alot to take in all at once, I am sorry if I am not up to your personal standards yet but please stop trying to belittle me by making remarks regarding my research, I have alot more going on in my life right now including the passing of my father than a god damn 14 year old volvo. with that said the timing belt was done at 90k so it won't be due until 160k but thanks for your concern.

Don't assume? you posted a topic that gave no creditable information that what you were getting into even needed to be done. If i was just going to go by what you posted then i would have to say sure you do X and X to replace you head gasket. BUT given that i assumed that you hadnt done all the research you needed it brought up the topic of WHY you even need a head gasket which now you know you dont need. Thus saving you lots of time and money! SO yes i had all the right to assume since my goal was to save your ALL GLORY TO THE HYPNOTOAD from spending money, time and frustration.

Ohh and another word of wisdom, Stage-0 does not mean replace everything on the list, it just means those are key parts to take a look at and/or keep in mind.

[Skrill]

I think a PCV should be added to a stage Zero

do the Stage Zero and PCV and you will be fine.

an easy way to check your PCV is to turn on the car and let it heat up to normal temp

then pull the dipstick tube and see if there is white smoke coming out of it... or you can put a klennex over it to see if it blows the klennex up

you can also take off your spark plug cover with T30 screwdriver and see if there is oil in your little wells near your spark plugs.

also if you do not fix your pCV you will might have a blown RMS (rear main seal) and start to loose oil.. that is a very expensive process since it costs nothing uncer $700 to fix.

awesome, thanks for the information, that was great help, just what I was looking for.

[erikv11]

sounds to me like you should

- consider doing some pcv service. it is a fairly big job, not difficult but long because you have to take a bunch of things off and then put them all back on. pcv service is critical on these cars, e.g. for preserving your car's rear main seal. If you have smoke from the dipstick or gunk in the lines then I'd give this a high priority. they get clogged by about 120k almost for sure, especially on a turbo. it is preventive maintenance at this point, just do it and be glad you're not doing a head gasket. you can buy a kit from fcpgroton. get an intake manifold gasket too.

- not do the head gasket. either return the parts (fcp is very good about returns) or sit on them or sell them here (less $ than you'd get if you return them).

- wait until 160k or so on the timing belt, or whenever it is convenient for you in the next year, unless it has also been a long time (go 5 years max on a timing belt). I'd do the tensioner and water pump at that time. At least the tensioner, people do push the water pump to three T-belts but I wouldn't.