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Battery Drain


TurboS60

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So i was having a rough time starting my car when left for a few days so i took it to the dealer and they said my aftermarket amp is draining my battery. I dont know how true this is or if its just an excuse but i know for a fact that when i turn the ignition off the amp does shut down as the LED for the power shuts off. Is there any way its drawing power even if the amp shuts off? Btw it has a brand new battery

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your dealer = :arob:

sorry amps do not draw power when the 12v 16 wire to it is off.

only thing is what are you useing to power the amp ? and what are you using to power that 12v 16wire to the amps

some sort of switch or something that turns off when the car is off.

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or one other thing is .. when you start your car your amp is off.. but once you start it your amp tries to draw A LOT of current cuasing stress on the alternator an easy fix is just wire a power switch into your dash for your amp so that you can turn your amp on and off (more so when you get in and out of your car) thus allowing the alternator to give its power to starting your engine .. anothe thing that will also help if your boasting a pretty decent systm is a capacitor.

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Here's the skinny...

Any amp that's installed correctly shouldn't drain your battery in just a few days.

It really shouldn't draw squat when the stereo is off. BUT- a defective amp could do it.

The way to check is to put an ammeter on the B+ lead and see if it's pulling juice when

it's not on. You may see a few milliamps, but there shouldn't be any significant current

going through that big, fat cable when the amp is asleep.

A GOOD shop might tell you it's the amp if it really IS the amp.

Was your amp new or has it been around. They do fail. Especially

if they haven't been installed incorrectly or get just plain overdriven.

Any decent wrencher is gonna know how to use the right meter and sure,

they're gonna look at after market stuff 'cuz a lot of it gets put in by people

that may give a damn, but just don't really know what they're doin'.

So when the service writer tells you "It's the amp, dude", ask to talk

to the guy who actually worked on the car and told him that.

If the mechanic's not spouting BS, he'll be happy to tell you how he got those results

and you can take care of the problem and know who to take it to next time.

Some shops have been at this long enough to know what they're doing. Remember them!

When the amp sees 12 volts on the remote turn-on lead then it might show some

current draw for just a second while the internal caps charge, but until you really

put the volume knob to it and start hitting with some heavy bass, it shouldn't go too high.

And a capacitor is not gonna fix this... Big power caps will keep the voltage up for very

short periods ( milliseconds ) between heavy bass hits when you're really bumpin', but they

will do absolutely nothing for a battery going flat over several days.

And finally, the way the remote really oughta be hooked up is to the remote-on at the HU.

That brings up the amp whenever you turn on the HU. Automatically. No switch neccessary.

Save the dash switches for the fog lights, autostarts and under body neon...

Good Luck!

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And finally, the way the remote really oughta be hooked up is to the remote-on at the HU.

That brings up the amp whenever you turn on the HU. Automatically. No switch neccessary.

Save the dash switches for the fog lights, autostarts and under body neon...

Good Luck!

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Cut the wire to the rear fog light .

Extend that wire to your 12v in for the amp

Done.

Now to turn the subs on you click the rear foglight switch and your golden.

I do that on every car I own and it works perfect.

Not like you really ever use the rear fog anyhow.

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I dont have any way to connect it to the HU itself, i was wondering what would be the best place to wire the remote line in the dash fuseholder.

Whatcha got for an HU?

I haven't seen very many that

haven't got a remote turn on output.

Most of the Volvo stockers have a

6 pin DIN AMP output. There's one in there.

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Yep that's what i used to use. try it out, as long as it switches on with the ignition, should be fine.

Also,with the power wires to the amp, i suggest getting 4GA or 8GA, 4ga will be better if u plan on adding stuff later and also i'd change the power to the amp by getting a fused wire, the wiring is pretty cheap, the inline fuse and holder should not be more than 10-15 bucks, also since our batteries are in the back the power run to ur battery is much shorter thus aloowing less drop out and battery drainage, use gold plated lugs for the power cables and make sure u give the ground connection a bit of a filing so that the neg has a better connection.

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