Brake Fluid Flush/re-fill

[potroast]

My Brembo rotors and new brake lines came in today. YAY!

My current rotors are warped, and I noticed the front brake lines were cracking, so I'm just gonna do it all at the same time. I figure that if I have to replace my lines, then I'll loose my fluid, and have to re-do that, too.

Now the question : How much brake fluid is held in the system, including the resivior to the "full" line? Obviously I will need more so that I can bleed the brakes, as well. Anyone know a safe amount of brake fluid to purchase for this, without buying a lot more than I need?

thanks. I plan on doing this tomorrow since I have a day off work.

[ChrisStapleton]

My Brembo rotors and new brake lines came in today.  YAY!

My current rotors are warped, and I noticed the front brake lines were cracking, so I'm just gonna do it all at the same time.  I figure that if I have to replace my lines, then I'll loose my fluid, and have to re-do that, too.

Now the question : How much brake fluid is held in the system, including the resivior to the "full" line?  Obviously I will need more so that I can bleed the brakes, as well.  Anyone know a safe amount of brake fluid to purchase for this, without buying a lot more than I need?

thanks.  I plan on doing this tomorrow since I have a day off work.

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I replaced mine with ss line... I lost very little fluid when putting the new lines on. I used 2 quarts of blue racing fluid but only because I left one of the bleed screw loose and lost some fluid. I would think a quart would do it if you are careful.

[ChrisStapleton]

My Brembo rotors and new brake lines came in today.  YAY!

My current rotors are warped, and I noticed the front brake lines were cracking, so I'm just gonna do it all at the same time.  I figure that if I have to replace my lines, then I'll loose my fluid, and have to re-do that, too.

Now the question : How much brake fluid is held in the system, including the resivior to the "full" line?  Obviously I will need more so that I can bleed the brakes, as well.  Anyone know a safe amount of brake fluid to purchase for this, without buying a lot more than I need?

thanks.  I plan on doing this tomorrow since I have a day off work.

←

PS... be sure to completely flush out all the old fluid with new.

[potroast]

yes, I planned on completely flushing the system.

Would it be a bad idea to remove the resivior cap, then open all the bleed lines and let it bleed dry... Then re-fill and bleed each until fluid comes out steady (no air left in system)

or would damage result from draining the system dry?

[DEWFPO]

I recommend pressure bleeding it. That way you will not be introducing any air into the system.

DEWFPO

[Guest 850rr]

Get a pressure bleeder, but prior to hooking it up, use a syringe to suck out as much old fluid as you can from the reservoir. The pressure bleeder works like a gem once hooked up, it would purge the old fluid in seconds. Good luck!

[Entuscan]

How much pressure should be put on the pressure bleeder for our cars?

Also I read somewhere to keep te brake pedal depressed while pressure bleeding the brakes. Something to do with releaving stress on the cylinder ???

[DEWFPO]

Pressure in the power bleeder should be between 20-30(max.) psi.

Haven't heard of needing to keep the pedal depressed. The Volvo green book doesn't mention it.

DEWFPO

[PGevanthor]

Pressure in the power bleeder should be between 20-30(max.) psi.

Haven't heard of needing to keep the pedal depressed. The Volvo green book doesn't mention it.

DEWFPO

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What is the Volvo green book? Have I missed some basic information? I am new to Volvo with a 2003 V70.

[DEWFPO]

The volvo 'green' books are the official Volvo Repair manuals.

I do not know if they are available for the 2003 MY but you can check out the Volvo website.

DEWFPO

[Entuscan]

Well check this tech info out, It's got everything that's to do with Volvo brake bleeding

Bleeding brakes

Conditions

Note! Bleeding the braking system with ABS takes longer than bleeding a conventional braking system.

Bleeding guidelines

When overhauling or replacing the brake caliper, mechanical bleeding in the usual way will normally be enough; but the brake pedal must be kept held down during the procedure, so braking system is not drained of brake fluid. If the braking system has been completely or partly drained, use the bleeding unit.

For other bleeding and when replacing brake fluid, use equipment which pressurises braking system to 2–3 bar (34–43 psi).

Brake fluid

Use only genuine Volvo brake fluid marked DOT 4+. Never reuse brake fluid. Always keep brake fluid in original pack and well sealed.

Preparations

-Check that ignition is switched off.

-Jack car up.

-Clean brake fluid reservoir filler cap and area around it.

-Remove filler cap.

Connecting bleed unit

-Connect bleed unit to brake fluid reservoir. Follow manufacturers' instructions for connecting and using bleeding unit.

Bleeding

-Depress brake pedal a few times to remove any air bubbles in the master cylinder.

Note! This step must be carried out between bleeding each brake caliper concerned.

Note! Start bleeding at one of the rear wheels.

-Remove protective cap from bleed nipple and connect hose from collecting bottle.

-Open bleed nipple and close it again when no further air bubbles are visible in the emerging fluid.

-Tighten bleed nipple.

-Remove hose from bleed nipple and install protective cap again.

Bleeding other wheels

-Continue bleed as per Bleeding in the following order:

-the other rear wheel

-RH front wheel

-LH front wheel

Checking

-Remove bleed unit connector from brake fluid reservoir.

-Check if there is any air left in the system by depressing brake pedal as if braking sharply.

-With engine off and brake pedal depressed 3–4 times, pedal travel should not exceed 40 mm (1.57").

-If pedal travel exceeds 40 mm (1.57"), bleed again and check pedal travel once more.

-Check that fluid level is not over MAX mark.

-Let car down.

Might be some Sticky material?

Since it's the official way to do it

But 34-43psi, that's a lott of pressure. I guess they want to do it realy fast

[BeachRat]

Hate to revive an older topic, but tengo una pregunta. I have some free time tomorrow, so I was going to put my SS lines on. I was going to do just the fronts tomorrow since it's only the front left line leaking; I don't think I'll have time to replace the rear lines also. My question is whether I'll have to bleed all four corners if I'm only dinking around in the front? I don't know if the front hydraulic hoses are separate from the rear ones and there'd be a risk of running air to the rear or not through the front.

Edit: Now I'm seeking to proove a point. I just got into an argument with my dad over this issue, since he has agreed to help me bleed (I = too poor for power bleeder). He feels I should just replace the one leaking line with my SS line and bleed it out (left front). I think it would be better to at least do both fronts, since one SS line and one rubber line might lead to an imbalance in brake pressure on the front end. He wants to just make sure we can successfully bleed the system one at a time, while I don't see the difference between opening up one side or two. Would running one side SS and one side OEM rubber make a noticeable difference in brake feel?

[Bay13]

Note! Start bleeding at one of the rear wheels.

On FWD cars you don't start at the rear. The bleed pattern is LF, RF, LR, RR.

[Guest Guest]

really? I thought you always start at the wheel farthest from the booster? Which would be the rear passenger, no?

I did it that way and everything is working great -- but should I go re-bleed them, then?

[Bay13]

If everything feels OK in the pedal then I wouldn't re-due the bleed. I also can't tell you why on the Volvo FWD it's done that way, I just know thats the procedure listed.