Engine Knocking - What's Failed?

[Matts 850 GLT]

So freakin knarkkked!! I got my RMS done 2 months ago.

My engine is knocking - 2.5 10v no turbo 101,000 miles, here are the symptoms:

I can hear mettallic knocking sound on drivers side of motor block, when I put it in drive it goes away.

It knocks when its both warmed up and cold. No loss in power.

What am I looking at here and why does it stop knockin when I put it in drive? Could it be the tranny or does it just drown out the noise of the knocking.

Any help if greatly appreciated.

Matt

[prasamin]

sounds like a trans issue, not quite sure what though....torque converter maybe.

[Guest Guest]

Are you right or left hand drive? If RHD check your timing belt tensioner, that could be knocking.

[Matts 850 GLT]

Are you right or left hand drive? If RHD check your timing belt tensioner, that could be knocking.

Its the opposite side of the engine where it joins the tranny.

Thanks, Matt

[Ozark Lee]

The transmission had to come out when they did the RMS. I wonder if they didn't get all of the bolts on the torque converter tight?

...Lee

[Matts 850 GLT]

The transmission had to come out when they did the RMS. I wonder if they didn't get all of the bolts on the torque converter tight?

...Lee

Was back in the shop on Friday, they said engine was fine and sweet and as it isn't leaking they aren't taking responsibility for the knock!! SO I went to a auto specialist who said there was a probem with the torque convertor. It could be either loose on its bushings or broken or a failed autobox pump!

Lee, I wanted to let you know that your diagnosis was closest. If the auto guys take out the tranny and find the tc loose I will have a case against the guys who did my rms, if the tc is bust I will stick in a s/hand tranny and sell the lot.

In any case thanks for your reply.

Matt

[turbomoose]

For some reason I bet it's the flywheel to crank bolts. When I had my RMS done the shop reused the "stretch" bolts on the flywheel. They had come loose and made a knocking sound when the car was in Park or Neutral. They removed everything and replaced the bolts with new stretch bolts, and it's been silent since. Going on 5 years now.

[Matts 850 GLT]

For some reason I bet it's the flywheel to crank bolts. When I had my RMS done the shop reused the "stretch" bolts on the flywheel. They had come loose and made a knocking sound when the car was in Park or Neutral. They removed everything and replaced the bolts with new stretch bolts, and it's been silent since. Going on 5 years now.

Now that is encouraging!! Did you get the bolts from your Volvo dealer or some other??

Matt

[Keaton85]

For some reason I bet it's the flywheel to crank bolts. When I had my RMS done the shop reused the "stretch" bolts on the flywheel. They had come loose and made a knocking sound when the car was in Park or Neutral. They removed everything and replaced the bolts with new stretch bolts, and it's been silent since. Going on 5 years now.

You dont need to replace these bolts, ive replaced dozens of trannys and never had to replace the bolts. It probably improper torquing of the bolts or the TQ to flywheel bolts are not tight enough which can cause this sound if one backed out, these bolts are easy to check too.

[turbomoose]

You dont need to replace these bolts, ive replaced dozens of trannys and never had to replace the bolts. It probably improper torquing of the bolts or the TQ to flywheel bolts are not tight enough which can cause this sound if one backed out, these bolts are easy to check too.

If Volvo states in a workshop procedure manual to not reuse something, but to replace it, you should replace it. Those bolts are not expensive. And even if the reused bolts may never back out or fail, the new bolts will always provide you with added peace of mind that the job was done correctly, at least according to Volvo. But then, that's just me. I'm not one to risk faulting my own car, and especially not another persons car. All in an effort to save a few dollars and a trip to the Volvo dealer. I've found that whatever the reason may be to not take the effort to replace a part that specifically is stated to not be re-used, usually causes much effort in the long run to correct that initial lack of effort. And think of it this way, following procedure for toque specs, bolt replacement, etc. is usually the best way to avoid these types of problems after the job is done.

And the Flywheel to TQ is easy to check. Here's the basic idea: Raise your vehicle enough for you to crawl under, leaving the wheels on is fine and probably wise. Secure your vehicle properly with jack stands, etc. With the key OUT of the ignition, turn your engine over slowly by hand using a large spanner on the accessory belt end of the crankshaft. The TQC to FW bolt access hole is in the picture I've provided and highlighted by the yellow dot. I forget what size the bolt is. I think it's an E torx bit you will need. Which you should easily find at any tool or home improvement shop. I would back them all out, and re-torque them to spec.

[Keaton85]

If Volvo states in a workshop procedure manual to not reuse something, but to replace it, you should replace it. Those bolts are not expensive. And even if the reused bolts may never back out or fail, the new bolts will always provide you with added peace of mind that the job was done correctly, at least according to Volvo. But then, that's just me. I'm not one to risk faulting my own car, and especially not another persons car. All in an effort to save a few dollars and a trip to the Volvo dealer. I've found that whatever the reason may be to not take the effort to replace a part that specifically is stated to not be re-used, usually causes much effort in the long run to correct that initial lack of effort. And think of it this way, following procedure for toque specs, bolt replacement, etc. is usually the best way to avoid these types of problems after the job is done.

Its unnecessary, If i listened to everything Volvo and its dealers said i would be up stuff creek with out a paddle. You think if this was a real issue that you wouldn't hear about this part failing? I bet you anything that not even the dealer replaces these bolts, they are perfectly fine to be reused and i can attest to that since its been done for years without a single failure. It's not lazy or a lack of effort, if that was the case then i wouldnt even take the flywheel off to replace the RMS in the first place thus not having to mess with the bolts! Ive dont more tranny jobs then i can count, and so has my old boss with not one issue since these cars originally came out in 93.

Ohhh and you can reused the head bolts one more time before you have to replace them... thats another little trick that has never failed me or any other indy Volvo that ive talked to!!

[turbomoose]

Well you have your proven, preferred method. I have mine. Since you've done this so many times, without fault, that is your peace of mind. I obviously prefer not to take a chance and follow suggestions, which gives me peace of mind and has left me with completed jobs not requiring further attention. That's my proven method, which I won't stray from.

This is similar to oil change intervals. An owners manual may say to change every 7.5K, but I'll still only put 5K on my oil and filter.

It's just what you're comfortable with.

I'm just not comfortable with re-using a stretch bolt when it says not to re-use it. B)

[Robert Rike]

Actually, unless I am mixed up on what an E torx bit is, they use regular torx bits. I think it is a T45. I too reused my flywheel to crank bolts. Put some medium loctite to prevent oil leaks on the threads and it was all fine. Second time around maybe I would change them, probably not. I have talked to too many Volvo Techs who don't and may regret it one day but so far it is all good. Just my .02 on it. It would be nice to replace them and know it was fine per Volvo but when I was doing my RMS and all timing components it was nickel and diming me so I took that shortcut.

Rob

If Volvo states in a workshop procedure manual to not reuse something, but to replace it, you should replace it. Those bolts are not expensive. And even if the reused bolts may never back out or fail, the new bolts will always provide you with added peace of mind that the job was done correctly, at least according to Volvo. But then, that's just me. I'm not one to risk faulting my own car, and especially not another persons car. All in an effort to save a few dollars and a trip to the Volvo dealer. I've found that whatever the reason may be to not take the effort to replace a part that specifically is stated to not be re-used, usually causes much effort in the long run to correct that initial lack of effort. And think of it this way, following procedure for toque specs, bolt replacement, etc. is usually the best way to avoid these types of problems after the job is done.

And the Flywheel to TQ is easy to check. Here's the basic idea: Raise your vehicle enough for you to crawl under, leaving the wheels on is fine and probably wise. Secure your vehicle properly with jack stands, etc. With the key OUT of the ignition, turn your engine over slowly by hand using a large spanner on the accessory belt end of the crankshaft. The TQC to FW bolt access hole is in the picture I've provided and highlighted by the yellow dot. I forget what size the bolt is. I think it's an E torx bit you will need. Which you should easily find at any tool or home improvement shop. I would back them all out, and re-torque them to spec.

Actually, unless I am mixed up on what an E torx bit is, they use regular torx bits. I think it is a T45. I too reused my flywheel to crank bolts. Put some medium loctite to prevent oil leaks on the threads and it was all fine. Second time around maybe I would change them, probably not. I have talked to too many Volvo Techs who don't and may regret it one day but so far it is all good. Just my .02 on it. It would be nice to replace them and know it was fine per Volvo but when I was doing my RMS and all timing components it was nickel and diming me so I took that shortcut.

Rob

If Volvo states in a workshop procedure manual to not reuse something, but to replace it, you should replace it. Those bolts are not expensive. And even if the reused bolts may never back out or fail, the new bolts will always provide you with added peace of mind that the job was done correctly, at least according to Volvo. But then, that's just me. I'm not one to risk faulting my own car, and especially not another persons car. All in an effort to save a few dollars and a trip to the Volvo dealer. I've found that whatever the reason may be to not take the effort to replace a part that specifically is stated to not be re-used, usually causes much effort in the long run to correct that initial lack of effort. And think of it this way, following procedure for toque specs, bolt replacement, etc. is usually the best way to avoid these types of problems after the job is done.

And the Flywheel to TQ is easy to check. Here's the basic idea: Raise your vehicle enough for you to crawl under, leaving the wheels on is fine and probably wise. Secure your vehicle properly with jack stands, etc. With the key OUT of the ignition, turn your engine over slowly by hand using a large spanner on the accessory belt end of the crankshaft. The TQC to FW bolt access hole is in the picture I've provided and highlighted by the yellow dot. I forget what size the bolt is. I think it's an E torx bit you will need. Which you should easily find at any tool or home improvement shop. I would back them all out, and re-torque them to spec.

[Matts 850 GLT]

Thanks for the tip, I could see the inspection gap in the Haynes manual but couldn't work out where it is on my gearbox. I am going back in today with this picture to see if the bolts are loose. I am confident that if Volvo say to fit new bolts and the garage didn't fit them then it strengthens my case against them, so again, I appreciate your posts. All said and done I paid for my rms replacement and within a month I have a knocking tranny. Life!

BTW Turbomoose what is that scoop thing on your engine shield, seems to feed air up to an engine mount?? Wierd??

Matt

If Volvo states in a workshop procedure manual to not reuse something, but to replace it, you should replace it. Those bolts are not expensive. And even if the reused bolts may never back out or fail, the new bolts will always provide you with added peace of mind that the job was done correctly, at least according to Volvo. But then, that's just me. I'm not one to risk faulting my own car, and especially not another persons car. All in an effort to save a few dollars and a trip to the Volvo dealer. I've found that whatever the reason may be to not take the effort to replace a part that specifically is stated to not be re-used, usually causes much effort in the long run to correct that initial lack of effort. And think of it this way, following procedure for toque specs, bolt replacement, etc. is usually the best way to avoid these types of problems after the job is done.

And the Flywheel to TQ is easy to check. Here's the basic idea: Raise your vehicle enough for you to crawl under, leaving the wheels on is fine and probably wise. Secure your vehicle properly with jack stands, etc. With the key OUT of the ignition, turn your engine over slowly by hand using a large spanner on the accessory belt end of the crankshaft. The TQC to FW bolt access hole is in the picture I've provided and highlighted by the yellow dot. I forget what size the bolt is. I think it's an E torx bit you will need. Which you should easily find at any tool or home improvement shop. I would back them all out, and re-torque them to spec.

[turbomoose]

That's the lower engine cover / skid plate / splash guard / etc. I don't know what it's called exactly. And that's exactly what that air scoop is for. It points directly at the rear motor mount.