AaronD81 Posted July 5, 2008 Report Share Posted July 5, 2008 I think Grant was talking about actually smelling gas, but I agree, there is NO way that you could ever get increased mileage like they advertise. My route to work is 35 miles and it takes 35-40 minutes (i.e. no stop/start (boost), all highway) and I still noticed a few MPG drop. This is compared to my 15psi MBC that I was using before. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leo850T5 Posted July 5, 2008 Report Share Posted July 5, 2008 i'm averaging 23-24 mpg driving normalcity and highway mixed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan A Posted July 5, 2008 Report Share Posted July 5, 2008 I seem to be getting a bit better mileage according to the computer, which still should be accurate. But it's too early to tell on the little bit of cruising I've done.On my new but prolly uncalibrated gauge, I'm hitting close to 19 psi and I haven't yet fully opened her up. Close though. Also, I got a different hose for the boost gauge so it's holding now (they provided some crappy clear vinyl hose). It also seems to have solved the reason why I couldn't seem to hold boost pressure on the first day. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chilled man Posted July 5, 2008 Report Share Posted July 5, 2008 Mine has acutally been going up I am avaraging 18pmg on this last tank I view that pretty good considering I went to manual and a tune at that same time I think once the novelty of a Manual and Tune wears off I know I will see 20 + on this carI have the exact same car to compare against and that AWD and everything only gets 18-22 on highway driving all day so :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pops Racer Posted July 7, 2008 Report Share Posted July 7, 2008 Any input on why my car might start chugging hesitating at 15+ psi? I don't think it is fuel, it feels like my CBV might be letting loose. The boost gauge needle kinda bounces a little but the engine doesnt really do anything except stutter a little bit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oreo931 Posted July 7, 2008 Report Share Posted July 7, 2008 Any input on why my car might start chugging hesitating at 15+ psi? I don't think it is fuel, it feels like my CBV might be letting loose. The boost gauge needle kinda bounces a little but the engine doesnt really do anything except stutter a little bit.How much is the boost needle bouncing? A bad wastegate actuator could cause this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pops Racer Posted July 7, 2008 Report Share Posted July 7, 2008 How much is the boost needle bouncing? A bad wastegate actuator could cause this.It drops back below 15, then I gwet nervous and let off the gas.It kinda goes," du,du,du" then I bail on the throttle. It's not terminal, but when I really want to get on it, I've got watch my throttle to control boost. Other than that all is good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HtownTurboBrick Posted July 7, 2008 Report Share Posted July 7, 2008 It drops back below 15, then I gwet nervous and let off the gas.It kinda goes," du,du,du" then I bail on the throttle. It's not terminal, but when I really want to get on it, I've got watch my throttle to control boost. Other than that all is good.i've been having similar symptoms but mine's led to CEL's and a lot of random misfiring codes. i've spent all weekend replacing and upgrading sparks, wires, cap, msd coil, msd amplifier box all one by one to find the culprit. i'm gonna do the rotor tonight and pray that fixes it cuz nothing else has worked so far. if that doesn't work i'm going to burn my car to the ground. car runs great all the way to 16psi. at 17psi and i get a hardcore miss and timing gets pulled way out. i have no idea left what could cause it once i replace the entire ignition system. which i'm one part away from at the moment. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oreo931 Posted July 7, 2008 Report Share Posted July 7, 2008 i've been having similar symptoms but mine's led to CEL's and a lot of random misfiring codes. i've spent all weekend replacing and upgrading sparks, wires, cap, msd coil, msd amplifier box all one by one to find the culprit. i'm gonna do the rotor tonight and pray that fixes it cuz nothing else has worked so far. if that doesn't work i'm going to burn my car to the ground. car runs great all the way to 16psi. at 17psi and i get a hardcore miss and timing gets pulled way out. i have no idea left what could cause it once i replace the entire ignition system. which i'm one part away from at the moment.Plug gap Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HtownTurboBrick Posted July 7, 2008 Report Share Posted July 7, 2008 Plug gapwent from .028 to .025 plus i have msd blaster coil and msd 6a. no excuse for spark blow out. also went from champion copper's (with 200~ miles on them) to NGK BKR6E's. with a high out put upgraded ignition system along with cold sparks gapped down, nothing else really makes sense. the rotor is the only thing left in question, once i replace that then i'll have to see. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oreo931 Posted July 7, 2008 Report Share Posted July 7, 2008 My plug gap is .024.Try that, who knows maybe it will help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan A Posted July 7, 2008 Report Share Posted July 7, 2008 Well, taking into consideration all the members here who only recommend OEM plugs (and coils), I bought a set of OEM plugs from the dealer at about $10 a pop a few weeks back, with the gap pre-set to standard. I put them in just yesterday after I too was getting misfire/hesitation under higher rpm's and boost. Scares the crap out of you. Replacing the plugs seems to have solved my problem, even though the plugs that came out didn't look all that bad. I have a little different set up than you guys running cap/rotor and single coils, but you might want to think about using the OEM stuff.I've still not opened mine up all the way, but I'm running it harder than before and I'm still coming up with better mileage. So far, so good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oreo931 Posted July 7, 2008 Report Share Posted July 7, 2008 Those plugs do not come pre-gapped. You need to check the plug gap before you install them.I am running NGK coppers with zero problems. I DID check the gap and adjust it before I installed them as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan A Posted July 7, 2008 Report Share Posted July 7, 2008 According to the dealer, they were pre-gapped. I'll double-check. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gmsgltr Posted July 7, 2008 Report Share Posted July 7, 2008 I recently replaced my cap rotor and plugs and did all OEM. The plugs do come pre-gapped. However, you should still check them. My chip still runs a code... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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