Stage 0 Complete Now Problems

[DB855R]

Six months ago purchased a 96' Volvo 850 R with 103,XXX miles on her. Ran and drove excellent not one problem. Started in March a complete stage 0 tune up because I didn't know the service history. Here is my tune up list:

Bosch Distrib.

Bosch Rotor

IPD plug wires

Denso Iridium Plugs

Bosch Fuel Filter

oil/filter change

K&N panel filter

New Bosch front and rear O2 sensors

Coolant flush

fuel injector cleaner and only filled up w/ 92 or 93 octane

I didn't change trannny fluid or replace rad and intercooler hoses visual inspect looked good

The car drove better then when it was first purchased I took it to the local Volvo dealer told them what I did and please do a complete insp. of everthing (because i recently got car) and let me know what's wrong I'd like it fixed. They replaced my turbo seals and said I needed a timing belt which I knew about before, besides that car is solid. Drove for 2 months no CEL no problems.

On May 1st saved up money and drove to dealer for timing belt replacement (only item that I don't want to do myself). I picked up car STEADY MISS AT IDLE but tach doesn't move nor do I have a CEL for anything

Daily driving even at WOT runs great ONLY miss is at idle and ONLY after dealer replaced timing belt. So i got paranoid thinking maybe it's the Denso plugs after veiwing some posts so replaced them with champion copper cores still same problem when to a mechanic friend he inspected EVERTHING VAC lines ect. found no reason for the miss.

Last week went to dealer had them look over car again they said runs great and no codes, this car should throw a code!

SO my question is I know the dealer had to remove the fuel rails ect. do you believe they did a sloppy job and knocked something loose or not set the belt to exact specs?

Or could something else have failed that would cause this?

This problem only occured once vehicle was picked up and has continued for 2 weeks now.[

[DB855R]

Six months ago purchased a 96' Volvo 850 R with 103,XXX miles on her. Ran and drove excellent not one problem. Started in March a complete stage 0 tune up because I didn't know the service history. Here is my tune up list:

Bosch Distrib.

Bosch Rotor

IPD plug wires

Denso Iridium Plugs

Bosch Fuel Filter

oil/filter change

K&N panel filter

New Bosch front and rear O2 sensors

Coolant flush

fuel injector cleaner and only filled up w/ 92 or 93 octane

I didn't change trannny fluid or replace rad and intercooler hoses visual inspect looked good

The car drove better then when it was first purchased I took it to the local Volvo dealer told them what I did and please do a complete insp. of everthing (because i recently got car) and let me know what's wrong I'd like it fixed. They replaced my turbo seals and said I needed a timing belt which I knew about before, besides that car is solid. Drove for 2 months no CEL no problems.

On May 1st saved up money and drove to dealer for timing belt replacement (only item that I don't want to do myself). I picked up car STEADY MISS AT IDLE but tach doesn't move nor do I have a CEL for anything

Daily driving even at WOT runs great ONLY miss is at idle and ONLY after dealer replaced timing belt. So i got paranoid thinking maybe it's the Denso plugs after veiwing some posts so replaced them with champion copper cores still same problem when to a mechanic friend he inspected EVERTHING VAC lines ect. found no reason for the miss.

Last week went to dealer had them look over car again they said runs great and no codes, this car should throw a code!

SO my question is I know the dealer had to remove the fuel rails ect. do you believe they did a sloppy job and knocked something loose or not set the belt to exact specs?

Or could something else have failed that would cause this?

This problem only occured once vehicle was picked up and has continued for 2 weeks now.

[

I clicky wrong forum place this in maintenance

[Hoosier Daddy]

check that the crank and cams are properly aligned. sounds like you might be off by a tooth or two.

[Chilled man]

I would say intake came might be off by a tooth , that and get volvo OEM plugs :)

[prasamin]

timing is off probably...just a bit.

and as for plugs, the Bosch coppers are fine, but did you gap them down properly?

AND, did you make sure the plug wires are seated properly?

[DB855R]

The 1st install of Denso plugs just installed no gapping and had no problem, with the coppers they where all gapped to .028 are wires are seated well. I've went over these twice it's what I first thought

But if the dealer has the timing off a tooth won't that ruin my valves or cause any damage i've put 200 miles on since then

[prasamin]

The 1st install of Denso plugs just installed no gapping and had no problem, with the coppers they where all gapped to .028 are wires are seated well. I've went over these twice it's what I first thought

But if the dealer has the timing off a tooth won't that ruin my valves or cause any damage i've put 200 miles on since then

if it's off by just a tad, then no, unless you're driving pretty hard....

i forget, but do you have an ECU tune also?....if you do, then you should gap those plugs down just a tad more to about .026 or .025

[DB855R]

if it's off by just a tad, then no, unless you're driving pretty hard....

i forget, but do you have an ECU tune also?....if you do, then you should gap those plugs down just a tad more to about .026 or .025

I have driven it hard to see if I still had full boost/vac leak and if I got a miss at any RMP but no runs great. No ECU upgrade yet possibly after irs stimulus payment....which for some reason has not been deposited :huh:

[prasamin]

I have driven it hard to see if I still had full boost/vac leak and if I got a miss at any RMP but no runs great. No ECU upgrade yet possibly after irs stimulus payment....which for some reason has not been deposited

in that case, I'd have the timing checked.

[Aftermidnight]

have you checked the IAC valve? <_<

[Y2kV70R]

Being off "a tooth or two" will make a huge difference in drive ability. If i remember correctly, each tooth equals about +/- 11 degrees. That is a HUGE difference when it comes to cams. I highly doubt that is your problem.

Check the connections at the coil, and at the distributor input. Sounds ingnition related

[mune237]

sounds like an ignition miss, usually a plug wire leaking

[DB855R]

Being off "a tooth or two" will make a huge difference in drive ability. If i remember correctly, each tooth equals about +/- 11 degrees. That is a HUGE difference when it comes to cams. I highly doubt that is your problem.

Check the connections at the coil, and at the distributor input. Sounds ingnition related

New ipd plug wires and coil wire (with other tune up parts) were installed 2 months ago i was so pleased with overall driveability. Once I turned the car over at the dealer after timing belt install my tach jumped between 2000RPM's and 500RPM twice VERY QUICK then ran rough then rested at 900RPM's with no movement (steady), but harsh bucking feeling at a parked idle i thought it's just cold so i drove to work, next day went over everything shocked all good, called dealer explained problem they stated "car runs good for mileage".....but this ran much better prior to belt replacement. within the week i'm going to swap out ignition coils just to see im lost everything is new and no CEL.

[ErikS]

Consensus seems to be the TB ... have said dealer check again. If they are unwilling, go to a good indy in your area, if you can find one.

[Black Betty]

i would say have the dealer do another inspection and make sure they check the timing, also if they wont start to get angry, bottom line is your car ran better before than it did after they touched it, mechanics are supposed to leave no sign that any work was done other than a positive change

if all else fails have another shop do an inspection and check the timing if they are able to diagnose i wouldnt use the first place again