--Aaron-- Posted May 16, 2008 Report Share Posted May 16, 2008 find out if the dealer was in anyway responsible for the rough running, save evidence to support the theory n start the legal procedings....i just went through this about 2 months ago and it works! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
troyhyde Posted May 16, 2008 Report Share Posted May 16, 2008 "steady miss at idle"This sounds like the crux of the problem and is not going to be related to the T-belt change. The only thing that sounds potentially problematic to me is the "IPD wires". I wouldn't trust anything but the OEM Bougicords. Your champion plugs should be fine, same as OEM at 1/5 the price.Might also check the connectors for the MAF, IAC, and TPS, just unplug and replug a few times. Doesn't sound exactly like your issue but these can cause strange problems. A clean IAC and clean throttle body make for a smooth idle. Ditto good engine upper/lower mounts.You can likely continuity/resistance test the plug wires and see if there is an obvious problem. If you still have the old ones, might pop back in and see if you get improvement. I'd place a bet on the wires. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DB855R Posted May 16, 2008 Author Report Share Posted May 16, 2008 would say have the dealer do another inspection and make sure they check the timing, also if they wont start to get angry, bottom line is your car ran better before than it did after they touched it, mechanics are supposed to leave no sign that any work was done other than a positive change if all else fails have another shop do an inspection and check the timing if they are able to diagnose i wouldnt use the first place againfind out if the dealer was in anyway responsible for the rough running, save evidence to support the theory n start the legal procedings....i just went through this about 2 months ago and it works!Thanks guys Friday I have an appt. w/ the dealer again...only thing, all they said they'd do was remove the timing belt cover and show me that the work was done and new parts placed in anything else IE their labor to fix anything will cost $$ and stated "I then can check the timing and alignment then (at their business) to see if theres a problem." This I have a big problem with, I DONT KNOW THE CORRECT POSITION this is why I went to a certified Volvo dealer... yes i'm mechanically inclined but no expert .. I've seen Bay 13's timing belt post and the Haynes manual for proper alignment of everything but to me it's like trying to grasp Trigonometry for the first time. If i get no love from them I'll take it to an indy & spend more $$ again. I'll post updates! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
--Aaron-- Posted May 16, 2008 Report Share Posted May 16, 2008 "steady miss at idle"This sounds like the crux of the problem and is not going to be related to the T-belt change. The only thing that sounds potentially problematic to me is the "IPD wires". I wouldn't trust anything but the OEM Bougicords. Your champion plugs should be fine, same as OEM at 1/5 the price.Might also check the connectors for the MAF, IAC, and TPS, just unplug and replug a few times. Doesn't sound exactly like your issue but these can cause strange problems. A clean IAC and clean throttle body make for a smooth idle. Ditto good engine upper/lower mounts.You can likely continuity/resistance test the plug wires and see if there is an obvious problem. If you still have the old ones, might pop back in and see if you get improvement. I'd place a bet on the wires.ive heard alot of bad things about aftermarket plugs wires ect......ipd's very confident and ive grown to trust them so after speaking with them about the topic.......i went with NGK Iridium VI's, cap n rotor of course IPD's wires n IPD's MSD Ignition n I cant say anything but good things about the combination Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keaton85 Posted May 16, 2008 Report Share Posted May 16, 2008 WTF is with you people and stage-0 anyway? stop throwing parts at these cars and learn what they need instead. I'm not trying to take it out on you but ive seen to many people throw good money at all these stage-0 parts and come back with issues once again! You have to learn to be right between "if it aint broke dont fix it" and "preventative maintenance". Not the extreme of either or your going to waste your money or wear out a lot of parts.If i were you and i had bought the car i would have done this...- checked wires for resistance, replaced with Bougicord wires if need be.- replaces plugs with OEM or NGK if needed- replace air filter with Mann- oil change to full synthetic with a high micron rated filter- checked cap/rotor and replaced with bosch if need be- full tranny flush with full syntheticAs for everything else i would have left it the hell alone. especially the O2 sensors.... Timing belt - if you were at 140K miles then replace pulleys, hydraulic tensioner, belt, and possibly WP. But if its just the 5 year mark go with a belt.ohh and do i really have to say dont go to the dealer?I know this is no help to you now since you already dropped all the money on the parts but really I know you wanna keep your car going strong and not break down on you but there is a difference between throwing money at it and planning out a wise maintenance strategy. Dont get me wrong you didnt drop all the much on the car but some people have and its pretty sad. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DB855R Posted May 16, 2008 Author Report Share Posted May 16, 2008 binglax09 ur right, but went for belt replacement due to cracks in belt and no stickers of any known replacement. This was my only preventive replacement other stage 0 items were for possible future upgrades all in all my largest charge $550 dealer belt & tensioner install. Aaron IPD excellent products and service my father 2 1970 Volvo P1800E's and 04 S60R almost all products IPD + excellent service once all the pollen is off the trees 2 to 3 weeks I will post pics of all cars together. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mune237 Posted May 16, 2008 Report Share Posted May 16, 2008 Ok I'm saying usually an ignition miss, only really felt at idle, usually relates to a high voltage leak.Most times a plug wire is grounding out. I'm not saying to start replacing parts. Besides you've already done that.Sometimes new parts are defective or not installed correctly.Has anyone run a electronic diagnosis check on your car?It's takes but a few minutes. and should be cheap if not free.Even if it costs you a few bucks, at this point it'd be money well spent.I very highly doubt this symptom is caused by mis aligned cams = timing belt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DB855R Posted May 16, 2008 Author Report Share Posted May 16, 2008 HUGE UPDATE...after 3 weeks of hell with the dealer putting 100% blame on my tune up and not willing to double check their work, i spent 4 hours today in their showroom waiting for their diagnostic...Now i'm going to post their full description of problem for anyone who encounters this during timing belt install."CUSTOMER STATES THERE IS A MISS IN ENGINE, IF IT IS SOMETHING WE DID THERE WILL BE NO CHARGE, IF SOMETHING ELSE CUSTOMER TO PAY FULL DIAGNOSTIC. CHECKED TIMING BELT ADJUSTMENT, REMOVED TIMING BELT COVER AND ROTATED ENGINE TO SEE IF TIMING MARK LINED UP, NOTICED EXHAUST CAM OUT OF ADJUSTMENT BY A TOOTH, CHECKED AND FOUND RETAINER CLIP (PACMAN CLIP) MISSING FROM TIMING BELT TENSIONER, A NEW ONE WAS INSTALLED WITH THE NEW TIMING BELT, CLIP MAY HAVE GOTTEN CAUGHT UNDER BELT AND CAUSED IT TO JUMP NEC TO REMOVE TENSIONER AND BELT, REPOSITIONED CAM AND REINSTALLED BELT WITH A NEW CLIP -CUSTOMER THEN ROAD TESTED TO SEE IF IT IS OK."I am thrilled car idles fine and runs better then when I got it. After spending my free time triple checking everything to no cure I can now sleep. I will now learn how to do everything myself and I don't care if it takes a week. I thank everyone for your support and please CLOSE THIS THREAD...it's now just a bad memory. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plan_B Posted May 16, 2008 Report Share Posted May 16, 2008 Instead of getting all dramatic on yourself by having nightmares, do some research and find yourself a good indie mechanic, dealership mechanics suck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
prasamin Posted May 16, 2008 Report Share Posted May 16, 2008 did you atleast rub it in their faces those bloody bastards?link them over to this thread.....post up the dealer name, phone number, the service manager's name, and whoever worked on your car, and whoever refused to believe that the timing was off.they need to see the impact they have on people by acting like monkeys. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DB855R Posted May 16, 2008 Author Report Share Posted May 16, 2008 did you atleast rub it in their faces those bloody bastards?link them over to this thread.....post up the dealer name, phone number, the service manager's name, and whoever worked on your car, and whoever refused to believe that the timing was off.they need to see the impact they have on people by acting like monkeys.I SOOO TRUELY WANT TO BUT DON'T WANT ANY TYPE OF RECOUSE THEIR IN MY BACKYARD.Funny thing is I asked them after all this fustration if they would give me a nice discount on future maintenance they just apoligized 10 times and said NO because I got the general manager, not of Volvo service, of the entire dealership (multiple franchise dealer) involved and hung up the phone on him and called him unprofessional. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Black Betty Posted May 16, 2008 Report Share Posted May 16, 2008 i would not go back to them but can you atleast say what dealership it was some locals might want to know Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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