Jump to content
Volvospeed Forums

Front Brakes Dragging When Brake Not Applied


Recommended Posts

Title says it all. After a hard rain last night, I drove to work this morning. After the firdt few miles I started to feel a strong vibration whether coasting or on the throttle that became unbearable when I stepped on the brake. by the time I got to work (15 miles total) my front brakes were smoking. Well they are shot now, but anyone have any ideas what would have caused my brakes to hang up like that?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Age and mileage take their toll. Especially if the fluid doesn't get a flush every so often. Seems like the calipers become questionable on these cars at 125k going forward.

They do have a hard life, so go figure. Sounds like your caliper was stuck.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Title says it all. After a hard rain last night, I drove to work this morning. After the firdt few miles I started to feel a strong vibration whether coasting or on the throttle that became unbearable when I stepped on the brake. by the time I got to work (15 miles total) my front brakes were smoking. Well they are shot now, but anyone have any ideas what would have caused my brakes to hang up like that?
Sticking slide pins coupled with a sticky caliper or two. If the calipers can be pushed in easily with a pair of channel lock pliers, then your slide pins are gunked really bad.

I suggest new caliper(s), rotors and pads. Buy a small tube of synthetic brake grease for the slide pins, just $1 at any auto parts store - a little goes a long way. I just did mine and I have brakes that work better than before.

Inspect your flexible brake lines, it is probably time to replace them also. Flush the brake fluid, the old stuff is probably brown anyway.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I wouldn't go crazy assuming a siezed caliper right off the bat either. If the caliper boots aren't torn/leaking then the calipers are probably fine and the last brake job probably didn't include pulling, cleaning and lubing the slide pins. Every brake pad replacement should.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I wouldn't go crazy assuming a siezed caliper right off the bat either. If the caliper boots aren't torn/leaking then the calipers are probably fine and the last brake job probably didn't include pulling, cleaning and lubing the slide pins. Every brake pad replacement should.

Well, the car is 10 years old and just rolled over 80,000 miles. I have had it for a year now and have put 10,000 miles on in that time. Since I don't know when the last brake job was done and my front rotors are warped beyond belief, I went ahead and call FCP and ordered rebuilt front calipers and a front 302mm conversion kit along with new rear pads/rotors with Zimmerman cross-drilled rotors (front & rear), Akeebono ceramic pads and Stainless steel lines.

Here is a question. IPD offers both a 4-line Stainless steel brake line kit and a 5-line kit. Everyone else offers only a 4-line kit. How do you know if you have a 5-line system and what does the fifth line go to?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well, the car is 10 years old and just rolled over 80,000 miles. I have had it for a year now and have put 10,000 miles on in that time. Since I don't know when the last brake job was done and my front rotors are warped beyond belief, I went ahead and call FCP and ordered rebuilt front calipers and a front 302mm conversion kit along with new rear pads/rotors with Zimmerman cross-drilled rotors (front & rear), Akeebono ceramic pads and Stainless steel lines.

Here is a question. IPD offers both a 4-line Stainless steel brake line kit and a 5-line kit. Everyone else offers only a 4-line kit. How do you know if you have a 5-line system and what does the fifth line go to?

you may want to skip out on the cross drilled, many people have claimed they crack, better option is to go with slotted

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

×
×
  • Create New...