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Orifice Tube/ Do I Need A Special Tool To Replace It?


mbsl98

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In assembling info for doing my evaporator in the next couple of weeks, I came across a tool called an orifice servicing tool "This 5 piece universal kit will remove and install any style orrifice tube. Comes in molded case. Manufacturer: MASTERCOOL". Would this be $20. well spent, or unneeded in swapping the orifice tube as part of redoing the evaporator in my '95 855T? I have never seen reference to any special orifice tools in teh write-ups on doing the evaporator so far.

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HI Pras,

This isn't the quick disconnect set that you are thinking of, for teh two AC lines. It is just for removing the orifice tube itself. I already got teh quick disconnect tools, just never heard of teh orifice removal and installation tools.

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oh, the orifice tube...right.

you don't need a special tool. you'll have to undo that huge nut that holds the two parts of the line together. you can do that with a wrench. other than that, the orifice tube can be removed with your hands or pliers, and replaced easily.

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You probably know this but you need to let all of the gas out of the system (until it's neutral) before pulling any of the A/C hoses or pipes off. Don't be pulling apart any A/C lines without first emptying the gas from your system or you'll be in for a big surprise....Danger Will Smith, Danger! :o

I noticed that for a deposit (cost of the machine), AutoZone will let you "borrow" a special pump that evacuates your A/C system too. You'll get your "deposit" back when you return the machine. Be aware that evacuation takes an hour or more but you can go do something else while it's doing it's thing. According to VADIS you also add the needed amount of PAG oil before evacuate the system once everything is back together, then you add exactly 1.63 lbs of R134A gas. I'm sorry if this was general, already known knowledge....and if there is anything I wrote that was wrong, please feel free to correct me.

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That's a good warning about emptying any freon. However, my system has a huge leak (lasts about 1 week) and has not been recharged since last September. If it still had some freon I'd be happy to just keep recharging it, but it's finally just a seive. I'll open the system at teh schrader valve, etc., but really don't expect there to be any remnants.

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When you have a system that is this old and has been compromised to atmosphere you should really replace the receiver/dryer bottle ($40-$50). If the orifice tube has crud blocking it up you likely have a compressor crapping out and you'll ruin the new evaporator. If the evap is leaking, repace it and the rec/drier, pull the vacuum, fill er up and blow ice cold.

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Thanks, Gilhuly. That's just what I'm doing - replacing evap (leaking) and receiver (old and rusty but not leaking) and Orifice tube (original, don';t think it has any issue, but good time to do it just in case. Unfortunately, I think I have to take it to an AC shop for a $150 evacuation and recharge once it is back together, since I don't have the vacuum pump or the right fill tools (just the standard tap and pressure guages to use on single cans of 134a). I know it will need the right amount of oil added, and I have seen lots of discussions in other places about the most common cause of compresor failure being over filling with oil. I haven't seen this come up here on VS, but I saw it a lot when I was getting a personal licence to allow me to buy R12 for a couple of other cars that have not been converted. Apparently having a little less is much better than having too much oil in there.

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