For when there's no one in chat.

This thread is for you. Have at it.

::twirls around in chair::

I have observed that these errors tend to manifest during hot weather or when the interior of the vehicle is warm. Interestingly, if I turn off the car for a few minutes and restart it, all error messages disappear. This situation recalls the first day the errors appeared, which coincided with a particularly hot day when my air conditioning ceased to function due to a condenser leak.

I believe that the issue may be related to the Central Electronics Module (CEM) overheating. Notably, when I drive with the windows open, the errors do not occur. Additionally, I’ve noticed that when I activate the fan without the air conditioning, it blows warm air into the cabin, suggesting that the ECU or ABS may be receiving airflow from the cabin fan.

I have read that earlier models featured a small pump designed to draw heat away from the ECU, and I am curious if my model has a similar mechanism, given that the placement of the control units is different. My next step is to open the CEM and install a heatsink with a fan, hopefully this will help.

I would greatly appreciate any insights or suggestions regarding this issue. Specifically, if anyone has experience opening the CEM for this model or knowledge about the presence of servo-controlled vents for the ECU, CEM, or other control modules, your input would be invaluable.

Well known of his Chronicles of area 34, his Swededemon projects, Nürburgring trips and all the experiments he did with N/A tuning/superchargers etc.

He got diagnosed with cancer last December.

For example: Today I put on new rims and tires and also had the car detailed.

Anyway onto my electric question.  As it sits now I only have an on/off switch.  I ordered a Master flow 2 speed fan control switch BWS2 without thinking.  Now that it is here I looked up how to wire it.  Seems you need a fan set up for 2 speeds.  Well I have no idea if this motor can or is a 2 speed motor?????

Thank you

https://www.amazon.com/Century-formerly-Smith-GF2054-Bearing/dp/B006P1NRZS/ref=asc_df_B006P1NRZS/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=198064502357&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=8004074314275465058&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9023906&hvtargid=pla-323464538052&th=1 

https://www.homedepot.com/p/QuietCool-2-Speed-Control-Switch-IT-35000/206049248  

I'd post a pic to start, but I don't have any photos of my roof.

This habit is what keeps me from dumping money into cars.

'05 Specialized Enduro Expert

'05 Cove Stiffee FR

'03 Litespeed Vela

'92 Specialized Hardrock Ultra (my first real bike, now seeing duty in singlespeed form)

tks

I thought mandalorian was the best shit in years, but I was way wrong.  Boba Fett is incredible.  
 

hands down the most enthralling stuff on TV in years.  So bummed  season 1 is over.  
 

I used to have another, old tablet. But, it hasnt got a front camera, and that was really sad. Although, it was powerful, it has a small storage. Despite it was small, it was really heavy. 

Unfortunately, my parents saying that I really need to stop using a tablet, and use an ordinary phone. But I dont phone, because tablet is more comfortable than phone, in my preference. To me, a phone has a small screen. Thats why I wanted a tablet, because it has a bigger screen that phone.

Like I said, a new tablet has a big screen. It really is helping me to read a book in my tablet for example. 

What do you think? Do you have a tablet? What's it like?

We are on DefCon 3 at our house.

I know a few people that have had it, but no lose of life.

I'll start.

Che Admin:

I don't want to hear anything about safety. My car is stock and does not roast the tires at launch. This is Yakima and most people race at red lights. I'm safe and I'm not being reckless. I take off at the red and then slow it down after I'm clearly the winner in acceleration. I like to look at the grille of the car as I pull away from them so I can see which car or truck I beat.

I have how ever been pulled over for speeding now twice. VW is my reasoning, They drive so fricking slow. Sometimes they drive 10 mph under the speed limit and it makes me want to take off in the coupe. It's not at all Road Rage or me getting angry. I'm just having sober fun with my car. 

I haven't received and tickets yet. The po po see my bad history with police when they pull me over, then when They see I'm getting my life together with a license and insurance and no convictions in at least 5 or 6 years I think they let me go. I tell them the truth that I was driving like an asshole and having too much fun. Maybe they see that and let me go? I try to look on the bright side and see that if I'm not in jail I don't have any warrants. GG.

What you see is a DH side fender bracket, A fender turn signal light from a 00' C70, A left blinker, DH side fender graphic (417 pacific blue pearl.)  All parts are from 70 series Volvo from 98' to 00'.  The more I repair the more spare parts I will have. Should I sell?

1998 Volvo C70 coupe

I'm just going to list the diagnostic issues. $5000 is a good amount of money. Is it worth it? Maybe if i do one job at a time maybe.. this is what they said

Engine oil - "there are a few leaks on this vehicle. The major leak is from the engine oil cooler lines, start there."

Drivability- "Air pump is inoperative, visual inspection shows multiple disconnected vacuum hoses, inter cooler piping is loose."

Brake hoses - "Break hoses are cracking"

CV Joints/Half shafts - " passenger side cv axle is ripped, drivers side is close to ripping- Replace cv axles"

shocks/struts "right front strut mount is bad, there is a severe clunk from that corner everytime you go over a bump- may or may not be caused by the mount"

these are the severe needed to be fixed issues they found during their diagnostic.

I have already put about $2000 into this car. What should i do? Sell the c70 and start fresh with an s70? please let me know.

Edit: the guys there said what they would fix first is the oil leak and the struts/ suspension issues first then work my way down. just those two he said would be around $2000. 

I had some time to think, I decided im going to fix it. Can't just give up on stuff because it needs your help.

Stop using these jack stands They fail because they were casted incorrectly and the teeth of the jack stands are sunken in and fail with just the smallest tap to the locking arm.

This picture was taken from a youtube video explaining why they fail and showing you how easy it is to make the locking arm slip off. AS you can see the teeth that keep the jack up are sunken in and almost rounded. 

------------

here is a picture of the teeth on my Duralast 6 ton jack stands to compare the two.

As you can see this is why they fail. These failing jack stands from harbor freight tools are extremely dangerous and should be taken back to harbor freight for a full refund. Do not just throw the recalled jack stands away as some one may think its a free jack stand and get badly injured or worse. I know this happened awhile back but not everyone would know. I did not know when i went to harbor freight why they had no jack stands for sale anymore. Now I know.  

Edit: seems they only give you a gift card for the amount of the recalled items. I would not go for this, I would demand my money back. harbor freight cut corners and put you into a position that's very serious. I would demand a full refund.

Even the replacement jack stands that harbor freight give you in return for the recalled jacks are also failing and harbor freight had to add more jack stands to their lists of recalls as they split into two pieces under pressure. If you have any Pittsburgh jack stands just take them back. It's not worth it.

My 1998 Volvo C70 was popping 2 codes. Secondary injection system, and Running too rich. The car would sometimes lose power and my engine light would start blinking when pushing the car too hard. I went to my mechanic and they installed a new tube kit and we reset the the engine light after. A day later the old beast  popped the same 2 codes again.

2 days ago I was washing the paint with gasoline to get rid of rough spots in the paint and the car died while listening to music. I jumped the c70 and started it up. then turned it off and tried to turn it back on again. No response. I got ready to jump the car again and maybe buy a new battery when the connector to the battery popped off lol. I said "oh.. this is the problem." I tightened the clamp to the battery and the car started up just as usual. My computer system reset completely which i found out is normal. I called Volvo of Seattle and got my radio code(thank you VS).

It has been Two days now and the car still has no engine light on. I have tried pushing the Old beast  to the limit to pop the same code.  Nothing, no codes at all..

This is my theory So tell me what you think please, as im a noob. 

My theory is that the previous owner did not fasten the battery clamp down tight enough to the battery and it was causing the c70 to loose power due to bad connection to to the battery. I'm wondering if the car thought it was a secondary air injection Problem when in reality it was just a loose battery causing the car to lose power tripping the air injection code..

As i said before these are just my thoughts. Any info would help. Thank you.

Edit: Nevermind..