In December of 2006, I was pretty content with my car, and the way it was. I had already begun collecting parts for an engine build, but I wasn't planning on any body work. That all changed with this little incident:

I was pulling out of work, and a guy on a bicycle, not paying attention, slammed into me and landed on my hood. The damage was minor, but I would have needed work on the hood and fender (probably new), and work on my Erebuni front.

What ensued, well, was total mayhem. I decided to take the engine out, get it rebuilt, and at the same time, get custom body work done. I ordered all my Volvo parts from FCP Groton, who was and still is the only vendor I deal with for OEM parts, unless I'm in a pinch and run to the dealer or a member for something.

For my aftermarket parts, I decided to contact Joseph aka JHEIII874T5M. I ordered my wastegate, injectors, turbo, and blowoff valve from him, and also my Quaife limited slip differential. I got the lines and fittings for the turbo from Mark aka BlackT5. I ordered hoses from Sig at StylinMotors. I wasn't set on tuning yet, so I kept my RICA tune, and got a "base map" from John aka JRoss for my setup.

For body work, I went to a local shop (BlackJack Autobody and Paint) that had done work on my car before, including my Erebuni kit, restoring my Tritons, and other minor paintwork such as the hood. They were patients of mine at the dental office, so they cut me a really good deal. I went with them because they had worked on my car before, we had become good friends, and because they were close to work, and I could go in anytime I wanted to help with the car, learn, and throw some ideas at them.

So, I first took the car over to an engine builder that worked on VW cars, and had been referred to me by a couple of VS members, and a friend who really trusted the guy, and knew his work. The builder agreed to remove the engine, and do the build with the parts I provided. He had a machine shop that he used, so he was going to handle everything with the engine. I would just need to get the parts to him.

I ordered China rods from R-Sport, which arrived on time, and I ordered pistons in stock compression, OS1, from R-Sport, which promised them in one or two weeks. Well, it ended up being almost 2 months, during which time I really reamed Jonathan at R-Sport, got desperate and was searching for other pistons, but just ended up waiting for the R-Sport ones. During this two month wait, my engine builder got frustrated, and handed me my engine back in a million pieces. I don't really blame him (I blame R-Sport), but it really got me stressed out since I was getting closer to leaving for India, and I needed the car back together.

I was getting desperate to have the engine done, so I called a VS member who had worked on Porsches, and he agreed to do the assembly in his garage. He had a machine shop he used, so he took care of boring, balancing, etc, and then assembly.

I also decided to give VMS a chance (wow, what a mistake), and I ordered a performance head from Terry, and got it a month and a half later (was supposed to have it in a week). The head looked good, and even Mike (the engine assembler) said it looked good, and the shop also said it looked good. We should have examined it closely, but we didn't have the time, and we expected a $1500 product to be 100% good. Mike got the engine assembled, and when he got the head on, the intake cam wouldn't spin, so we were at a loss. We took the engine over to the guy who did my manual swap (and had worked on race engines), and he tried, no luck. During the inspection, he noticed a crack in the VMS head...well, we put the cam cover on once, and that crack became opened up and a piece of the metal fell off....We now had confirmation of VMS quality control (non-existant). I was getting really desperate since I had very little time before I had to move back to TX and then off to India. I bought another head, had it rebuilt, and tried that on, and intake cam wouldn't spin. We tried boring that one, and it still wouldn't spin. Now, I was in a pinch, and I decided to buy a stock motor and put it in the car so I could get home. Got it, and got it in and the car running.

Here are pics of the VMS head and it's quality....shitty porting, shitty quality....We tried this head on atleast 50 times, and then the other head too!

I called Terry a hundred times when it was taking forever to get the head, and after we found out it wasn't working, and after we found the crack. He told me some crap about his niece getting in a wreck or some shit (we all know how many of his family members have died when there was a problem with his parts). He told me that the head was good when it left him, and that they do quality checks on all of them, blah blah. Long story short, I lost $1800, and Terry claimed he went bankrupt, even though his site is still up, along with another one. Don't ever buy from Terry Coon.

Okay, so you know about why the engine took so long, and all of the stuff associated with it. It should have been done in February or March, and it ended up getting done in July, mainly because R-Sport took 2 or 3 months to get me the pistons, and then the cylinder head issue. Now, let's back track to the body work. I was expecting the body work to be well on it's way in January, and hopefully done by February or March, to coincide with the engine, but that was not going so well. BlackJack was REALLY busy, and since I was getting a deal, my car was worked on very sparingly, and usually after-hours, and while I was there. Don't get me wrong, the guys worked really hard on my car when they could, but I needed the car back. From December to April or May, this is the progress:

In December, after getting the engine pulled, I towed the car to BlackJack, and pulled off the door panels and other extra stuff to permit a proper paint job. We had planned to shave the handles, do a flat hood with scoop, fender vents, wide body, and a candy red paint job. We didn't have any plans for the custom body work, and just kind of went along as the days went by. Alot of it was my thinking, and alot was BlackJack's thinking, but it was just going really slowly. We used lots of fiberglass, and did lots of welding. Here are pics in December:

Here are pics of how the hood was going in January and February. It's really hard for me to picture things, so I had to have BlackJack help me with how things would look. I thought the hood vent looked pretty darn good, and I liked where it was going. I also liked the idea of the flattened hood.

In the meantime, we did some M5 fender vents (I got a new used fender for the side that was hit), and I decided to do something else which hasn't been done before.....mold in a V70R bumper, and get rid of the Erebuni front. For that, we cut the top off of the V70R bumper, and put it right over the 850 upper bumper piece with rivets, and then molded it in with urethane and figerglass.

We had also started working on making the fenders wider. We were doing things all over the place just to get the basic ideas onto the car. Notice that it was March by now, and alot still had to be done. The pistons still hadn't arrived, and the whole VMS ordeal was about to ensue, and I had already been handed back my engine in a million pieces by the original engine builder.

Here's more of the hood vent and bumper coming along. That's my boy Juan at BlackJack welding in the pieces:

Now it's April, and there is still alot to be done, including the paint job, and putting the car back together. I'm freaking, and still no pistons! WTF! We're going slowly, but the shaved handles and side trim has been welded and fiberglassed:

Engine was on the lorry already heading for the scrapyard so I asked him if he wanted to drop the engine at my house, street number 55 btw.., which he did.

The engine was complete with intake manifold and TB, Exhaust manifold, 16T turbo and white injectors in the fuel rail. The Alternator, steering pump and AC compressor were missing from the engine.

Last Saturday I decided to take the engine apart and inspect the damage so after a couple of hours the workshop was one big mess but all was apart..

The crank was damaged and this engine really hit the jackpot, 4 bend rods!!! I collected the rods and gave them back to the original owner so he could use them as a trophy on the wall.. <img src="http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/public/style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/laugh.gif" style="vertical-align:middle" emoid="" border="0" alt="laugh.gif" /> Crank went in the old metal dumpster and a newer 2001 type crank was installed temporarily together with a china rod to check the clearance. After that the block was machined to make room for the rods to rotate freely.

The type of rod to be used,

Rod is a bit heavy and 2 mm wider than the other known China rods but all other they should be adequate.

The begining - Oct '07 misc stuff first... I'll try to list in chronological order.

17" pegs

Rear Spoiler, EST dual exhaust, "cross country" delete..

EST ABM's & SharpHID's lo & fogs

"R" door panels

Rear seat heaters

20% tint & pillar blackout (3M 73602 3" black tape)

poly torque mount & new style firewall mount

horn relocate

18" pegs, 302mm brakes

Amp & subwoofers

Tombone endlinks

Bumper, grille paint & new emblem

"R" sill plates

Tailight tint

1st dyno.. 223WHP/291tq (runfile 238)

lower shores performance MBC

3 gauge pod

EGT, Boost, Wideband, intake temp

IPD BBK

Raceway Park

>

best time (19T - running 15psi (TCV)

Eyelids...

Engine/Exhaust:
Stev0 Tune running 20-24
BW EFR 7064 Turbo Smart CBV and Dual port wastegate
Snabb Reverse intercooler piping kit
Custom Inlet tube mated to 3.5" maf housing
VR exhaust manifold - Milled Flat to fit T3 Turbo
Custom DP from Aaron
Magnaflow rear mufflers
Do88 intercooler -
Do88 Rad

Wheels:
Borbet LV5 with Bridgestone Potenzas.

Many thanks to Bmac,Steve, Hussein, and anyone else for answering the endless questions.

Day 01:
Car came with its drive shaft pre-removed but included. 12 total wheels and tires, a brand new set of R mats in the volvo box, and a stack of service receipts totaling 26,000 CAD.

Purchased at 121,000 miles currently 152k on everything.




March 2014 - Acquired many nice parts through the winter. Met Bmac and got everything installed and then had Steve tune it the same evening. Long day but everything has held together like new since then.

Snabb kit was a oh yeah! to install, lower pipe need to sit just right to make it all work.

18" of space was nice but we almost needed more.

Clamshell was not surprisingly rusted closed.

ugly ugly welds but it went in perfectly. Did require cutting the old downpipe to clear the angle gear.



Bens BIG turbo


Manifold and turbo and exhaust removed.


Nice new nuts and reused the washers.


Huge difference in design.


Sway bars are such a nice improvement on this car
Reused a front bar from VS, rear can be had new without buying the set (just ask)


Practice Safe Turboing



May '14

Tint and Clear Bra - No surprise it doesn't show up in pictures. The Tint Shop of Rochester NY did a great job. Happy to protect the newly painted front end. (barely visible below)

'Winning' Only two volvos that weekend so I can't be too happy.




Summer 2014
Fitting some poly bushings to rattle my fillings out.


Sticker from the EST customer bbq day


Nice little paint job under the hood


 

Nothing Special but it does the job

March 2015
Prep the Front shocks for service
Found a guide form what what i can't believe is 10 years ago. Thankfully the pictures are still up http://v70r.com/forums/topic/1667-ohlins-strutspring-install/
Had to get a offset box wrench but it was really the only tool for the job.





Rear set still brand new in box. Really excited to get this all in and be on the road

 

Not sure if VS works this way but Saving this space for suspension and brakes when they go on.

I have decided to create a new thread due to how cluttered and confusing the other became.

Old Thread:

I am back, a college graduate and re-motivated and ready to get this beast running for real this time!

Here is a small history of the car:

1. Engine 1: Original Engine with 216K, oil cooler line popped off and sized the engine
2. Engine 2: First fully built engine (pistons, rods, etc) - Metal left over in oil pan caused bearings to spin
3. Engine 3: Second fully built engine - Oil pan oring got pinched because "Right Stuff gasket maker" pushed it out of the recess. Lost oil pressure, spun bearings
4. Engine 4: Stock B5234 with h-beams. Didn't do a good enough job cleaning out the inside, pickup got clogged, lost oil pressure, spun bearings

I am now on my 5th engine and will be having my machine shop assemble the shortblock and put on the oil pan.

Specs of new engine are as follows:

1. 82mm N engine block (original engine block bored to 82mm(
2. 82mm Wisecos with teflon skirt
3. K1 139.5 connecting rods
4. RN 90mm crank
5. Glyco std Sputtered rod bearings
6. King .010 main bearings

I dropped everything off at the machine shop on 5/19/2017.

Yesterday, 5/24/2017 i ordered the rest of the parts i need for shortblock and oil pan assembly

1. Oil pan orings
2. Main bolts
3. Volvo sealant
4. Oil pump oring + gasket

For those looking for the sputtered bearings i was able to find them here: http://www.ebay.com/itm/262810037814?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

These are pretty much the only source I was able to find.

For those looking to get K1s at the cheapest price on the internet look here: http://www.sparktecmotorsports.com/k1t-044dw21140.html

At time of ordering there were 4 sets left and i know one friend who bought a set, so i think there are 2 left. They ship right from wiseco hence why they're so cheap.

Lastly, I have been working on a MS3 Pro PNP solution. This includes:

1. Coolant Guage driver Circuit
2. PWM Fuel pump relay driver
3. Full AC with idle compensation
4. EVAP
5. Onboard MCU with CANBUS controller for extension of different devices and built in 8 extra ADC and about 20 extra digital IO
6. Expansion Header
7. Onboard MAP and BARO
8. USB
9. Reverse Polarity Protection
10. Main relay control

Its literally plug and play... No hacking up your harness, no creating new wiring harnesses. No external circuits to drive the coolant guage, fuel relay, no switching fuel relays, etc.

Hoping to get these out for manufacturing tonight.

~Matt

The front seat bottom tilt doesn’t work with the switch, but going through the memory buttons, the seat bottoms will tilt. It’s like this on both. The seat belt buckles don’t look like 850 ones. Almost looks like someone swapped in x70 ones. I remember putting in x70 seats into my 850 and they worked completely fine. Do the switches go bad frequently? It seems weird it’s the exact same on both front seats. 

There's a popular thread on a mustang forum I belong to that people post pictures of their cars as they sit right now - not in some fancy scenery or anything, just where it's currently parked.

Thought it would be neat to bring to volvospeed. I'll start:

PS: I've done some mods to my recently purchased stang, mostly under the hood. It's definitely a slow process. Excuse the cell pic

So, I like my Volvo... and you guys probably know how the rest goes. 😄

The story of this particular car, a 1996 850 Turbo in Platinum trim goes a little like this:

~late 2010/early 2011, while in my black T5-R, I see a fellow Volvo owner filling up at a gas station. I pull in to the pump next to his to get some gas and strike up a conversation, "That's a really nice car that you've got there..." I ended up talking with the owner for about 45 minutes that night and discussed all sorts of details. He bought the car new from a local dealership for his wife. They loved the car even though it was nearing 210k miles, but were thinking of purchasing something else (ultimately a Prius). I gave my contact information to the owner and told him if he ever wanted to sell it, I would be happy to buy it. Fast forward about a year and I get an email out of the blue from the owner telling me that he hasn't driven the car (about) since the last time we spoke. It's been parked in his apartment complex, and management wanted him to move it. We did some brief negotiating over the phone and he insisted on selling me the car for scrap value since he hasn't been taking care of it. After some reservation, I obliged - the last time I saw this car it was in good condition, but need some TLC. We meet at his complex, and his wife (and my late wife) are both with us. We strike up our conversation like the last time we met at the pumps and he tells me he wants to give me the car, no charge. I offer to give the money that we had previously discussed but he refuses.

I drove away that day with a free Volvo 850 that needed some attention, albeit was still running well. Over the next couple months I got the car cleaned up and ready for another harsh Minnesota winter. Here's some of the only pics I have at the time I received it (with the snow tires):

Fast forward ~3 years...

We're back down in Georgia, and my wife passes away suddenly. As I'm sure you all can imagine, the car (and almost everything else in life) was neglected for the next year or so while I tried to pick up the pieces and raise my then 3 year old daughter.

~1 year later...

I finally get around to manual swapping this car, and do it on a super budget. I hooked up with someone who was moving and just needed to unload parts and bought two complete manual swap kits for ~$400(?). I saved the best stuff and sold the rest to recoup my money, plus some. The car was doing great, piling on the miles and just being a Volvo.

~2018

I've been daily driving the car up until this point. I just started a new job with a well-known Japanese company. About two weeks in, on the way home, the oil pressure light started flickering. I realized at this point I was going to need to pull the pan and replace the sump o-rings (again... lol). I gave some careful thought and decided now was the time for me to buy a new vehicle. I purchased my first new car, a 2018 Toyot Tundra... and the Volvo was parked in my shop where it lived for the next year or so as I found the intermittent motivation to work on it. 

The year(s) of the Covid...

Now I'm spending a lot of time at home (working from home) and saving a bunch of money by not commuting in a 14 mpg 4wd truck (fml...), and the seed for a new hobbie is planted - 3d printing. Of course I go in cautious and get a glimpse of the silly things I can make and then my wallet jumps out of my pocket, so to speak.

I'm going to do my best to document as many changes as I can that have occurred since 2020 and some of the things I'm still working on. As of today, the mod list on the car is extensive. At a high level, here's what I'm working with:

B5234T9 - '04 C70 T5 - refurbed
B5254T(?) dual VVT head - 2006 S60 2.5T
Aaron tune - in progress still. ~1,100 kg/hr
Ported Japanifold
Gasket matched N/A intake manifold
N/A throttle body
Hybrid K24, billet 11 blade 54.50/68 compressor and 9-blade turbine
DW 1000cc injectors
DW 300 fuel pump
Do88 radiator/fmic
KW v3
320mm front brakes
IPD sway bars
General refresh of maintenance and consumables

Pictures! (next post)

Anyways, in this thread (Which I copied over from volvoforums and edited accordingly) I will document the progression of, what is actually my wife's, 1998 C70 Coupe. I will link to any useful threads I start or find useful during the progression as a resource later on.

So...

Well it looks like it's going to be a fairly substantial project car, so I am going to keep a record (with pics) of what gets done.

We originally purchased this car, a 1998 Volvo C70 HT Coupe, for my wife. She looked at tons of cars and kept coming down to the C70, but she had to have an orange one. Somehow we got lucky and one popped up just a few hours away the same day she sold her old car. It looked to be in pretty good condition, and just needed a PCV system and maybe a wheel bearing. I quickly fixed these issues and in the few months we have had the car, we have also had to fix a c/v axle (snapped under very minor torque), drivers side window motor quit, drivers seat quit (Just need to reattach some little spring that came loose, and the car developed a significant oil leak which I and a few other mechanics believe to be coming from in between the block and head, (mind you, the underside was bone dry when we picked it up.

Anyways, despite all these issues she still loves the car and so do I (and this coming from a saab/toyota fanboy). I will be pulling it off the road in the next month or so and doing the head gasket, all upper gaskets, timing belt, water pump/t-stat, and most likely pulling and resealing the oil pan.

This car was supposed to be a daily driver for my wife, but it i becoming a fairly extensive project, so I will be posting updates in this thread.

But first, pics of the car right after picking it up...

Alright, I fixed the oil leak. Turns out the hose from the block to the flame trap has a rip in it. I also replaced several vacuum hoses and repaired a bunch of minor boost leaks. Now it runs great! The only problem I an still having is alot of tapping noise from the valvetrain. I tried the ATF trick and it didnt make a difference. So I am assuming I will have to drop the oil pan and change the o-rings.

Ok, I got the oil pan job done. It was a pain, buit I feel confident enough to do it again if I had to.

I also found alot of other problems though....

The air pump is bad and I did some research and found that the cause is most likely a bad valve where the air blows into the exhaust. Anyways that whole system is bad. I was confused though because there were no idiot lights on in the dash. I pluged the obd2 scanner into the car and found a 02 sensor code (bank1 sensor1) and a rich condition code. I am assuming that they are probably caused by the bad air pump. Anyways, I figured that the cel was burnt out so I pulled out the cluster and discovered that the CEL, ABS, TRACS OFF, and SERVICE lights were all MISSING!?!?!?. Yup, somebody removed all the lights. I replaced the bulbs and now guess what, they are all on. From what I have read, the ABS/TRACS light is most likely caused by a bad ABS module.

I called IPD and asked if they could make a tune that ignores the SAS system so I could just block it off. But turns out it is a federal offence to delete a worthless emission system even if I live in an area that doesn't do emissions testing. So I am going to have to fix it correctly. Darn.

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My wife has been driving this car for the last couple of years. Finally over the winter we were able to park it and I could start making a list of what all I need/want to do to it.

Here's what the plans are:

-pass side cv axle

-pass side trans output seal leaking

-timing belt job/water pump (140k mi and no sign of it ever being done!!!!!! aaaahhh!!!!)

-abs control module (abs and tracs lights are both on.)

-redo entire front end (everything is loose)

-B&G springs

-steering u-joint (steering feels like it's binding)

-15mm rear wheel spacers

-alignment

-replace split vacuum elbows on intake tube

-air flow directional actuator in dash is starting to go bad

-fix several burnt out dash lights

-oil/coolant/trans fluid change

-install 1998 V70R ecu (yes, I win at the junkyard)

-repair drivers window regulator (I rigged it last summer so it kind of works, need to fix right)

-derattle sunroof

-new headlight wiper arms/blades

-new brakes?

-some sort of double din screen (stock radio doesn't work)

-new speakers all around

-and the list goes on, and on, and on... and on.........

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This car is pretty much top priority to get stuff done on this year.

The first project I am working on is the front suspension.

-new mounts

-new bearing plates

-new end links

-new steering column u-joint

-B&G springs

-MOOG camber adjustment bolts

-new bilstein struts were put on a couple years ago and still seem to be in good shape, so I am leaving those

Everything went pretty smoothly except for the column u-joint which was a huge PITA. The front of the car is back on the ground though and looks pretty good even after just dropping the jack (springs haven't settled) it looks quite a bit lower. I cant wait to get the back springs in as well.

In progress:

Rebuilt strut assemblies:

One side installed:

Sittin pretty and still needs to settle quite a bit:

While changing the column u-joint I discovered some significant vacuum leaks due to these cracked and split elbows. I will replace them before putting the intake back together. Also need to figure out why the intake tube is covered in oil.

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And the rear is done. The rear is surprisingly easy as long as you can get the car high enough to unload the springs after undoing the shocks. Kind of a weird design for the rear suspension, but it's pretty easy to work with. It definitely needs spacers in the rear now. I'm thinking 15mm. According to the manual the rear is only a couple mm narrower than the front, not sure if its the body shape or what, but it seems like a lot more than that.

What size spacers do you guys run on the rear? I'm not trying to hellaflush/poke/etc... just don't want it to look so sunk in.

Anyways, Pics:

Drivers side:

Passenger side:

And stance:

Yes, the garage is a mess.

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Not too much to report at this time. I killed 2 birds with one stone last night. I replaced the pass side trans output seal and replaced the axle as well. The trans was leaking from that seal and the boots on the axle were ripped. So now no more leak and no more grease all over the wheel. yay!

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Finally got my vacuum elbows in from fcp. Threw in a new battery and drove it for the first time in months. It desperately needs an alignment. The ABS/Tracs lights went out almost immediately so hopefully I wont have to get a new module for that yet. The cheap hacked together exhaust on the car is now hitting the rear spring, so I'll have to get an aftermarket turbo-back... darn.

Also, the A/C has a leak as it is very low on freon and it was full last summer.... The list never ends, but there is at least progress.

I've been away a good while but the wagons keep rolling.

Still have the black 98 project good grief that I RN swapped many moons ago, still 18T and ARD Blue Tune(lol, works great?), currently 220,000 miles, 70k on the RN swap build. Sold it to my buddy for a few years, got hit at a light and sat due to bent tailgate. I got it back two years ago and swapped XC bumpers from my old nautic xc, did a bunch of regular work to it since but mostly just drive it.

My old nautic blue 98 xc died many years ago due to sibling neglect, she has been relegated to parts car. Still have pretty much whole thing but don't think it's worth fixing, probably take some parts off and scrap it soon.

I bought a 240 for a simpler Volvo experience and quite love the contrast between it and the V70. Did a cheap headlight change, B Cam, new exhaust, got 2 M47s in the garage with full swap kit ready.

Last two years I rebuilt my RX7 Turbo 2 again, added a 2nd Gen Cummins Dually and Crossfire Injection Corvette!! Still tinkering with motorcycles too.

I have a list of stuff to do to the V70, some routine maintenance, possible paint or at least dip, thinking about finally doing the M66 swap and big turbo build that I've been squirreling away parts for. It's an old car and shows, clear coat is falling off, a lot of quirks inside with doors, locks, windows,etc... But this thing still just runs, drives great and still hauls ALL GLORY TO THE HYPNOTOAD, quite happy that it's held up to the test of time despite being used hard and put away wet regularly.

Anyways just wanted to say hi, been reading around lately and really glad to see some of the same guys still here, some coming back after a while like me, glad to see that you guys don't stop rolling.

Here is what it looked like when I got it back, pretty much the same. I have a photo of the smashed rear somewhere.

Tailgate and bumper swap

The plan is for it to replace my 2018 S60 since the lease is up in May. 
This will be a family hauler / road trip vehicle and daily driver for myself.    
We have a fairly active lifestyle, either on the road a lot or in the outdoors, camping/kayaking/etc. and car shows so a V70 was the ideal solution. 

So I have a month to get it sorted and the way I want it.   

New project means fun times! 

Recent work done prior to purchase.

Timing belt & Water pump kit.
Oil change and trans flush.
New TCV.
AC vac and recharge.

Planned repairs or maintenance.

Full detail, inside and out. 
As you can see from the photos, it needs a good scrub all over, theres a good bit of paint transfer all around, some scratches, and a pretty dirty interior so thats first on the list. 

Replace driver side door
Needs a new door, have one local I expect to pick up within the next couple weeks to replace the driver door with large dent.

Replace Amplifier
Amp is dead, so just have the one center speaker at the moment. 

A pillar trim refit
Need clips to replace the exterior apillar trim.

Pass rear window
Need a new clip for the glass/window reg

Planned projects. 

Fog Lights
Because why not.

light bar wiring for off road/long distance road trips
Because we plan on camping a lot with this, and taking a good bit of multi state road trips, adding some extra lighting options is ideal.
I have access to a ton of light bars free so will be installing something soon, need to figure out the roof basket/set up first.

Double din with backup cam
Need to research as I have no clue where to even start with this project on a P2.  
The v70 has the oe upgraded sound system with amplifier, so not sure if theres something special that needs done. 
If you have info on how to do this correctly, id love it, otherwise ill be digging through swedespeed im sure.

WANG ALL THE THANGS
Pulled a V70 spoiler from the junkyard over the weekend (lol didnt even have the car yet and already getting parts for it)
So need to get it color matched and on the back.   Will require drilling, and wiring. 

STUFF I AM LOOKING FOR AND WILL BUY IF YOU HAVE.

_{Amplifier - need it for a *** I need to go get the HU number *** gimmie a couple hours to update this lol.}  ✔️

Fully black interior - I don't like tan.  (O.O)

PICTARS

This thread will serve as a continuation of sorts of my 1999 V70 R build, which can be read here:

The conclusion to that thread will come later this summer, as I will be pulling all the modifications of my 99 R, and transferring them to the 00 R.  Now, onto the details of my new Venetian Red 00 R!

My friend sent me the for sale ad on Facebook:

Here's a couple of the photos from the listing:

After spending a few weeks negotiating with the seller, I bought a one way flight to Denver, packed some tools in my bag (I did, however, forgot to pack underwear ) and went to visit some friends before picking up a car and driving it 1900 miles across the country back to New York!!!

I landed in Denver Friday evening (May 12) in the early evening.  While there, I got to check out the murals of the Denver Airport, and see all the other bits that are the basis for a long list of conspiracy theories.

Here's how it sat when I picked it up from the seller at a shopping center a short walk from my friends apartment.

Shortly after taking delivery of my R, I went on a hike in up Golden with my friends.  The views were stunning to say the least.

After lots of fun touring around the Denver area on Saturday, I packed my stuff into the car and started driving back to NY on Sunday morning (May 14th) with plans to stop at my friend's place in Cedar Falls, Iowa.  Here are some photos from the drive Sunday.  Nebraska was wide open, flat, and very easy to drive through:

Drove through miles of turbines in Iowa (despite the picture being of a singular turbine).  There's a Don Quixote joke here somewhere....

Cruising towards Cedar Falls, Iowa and got to watch the sun set

Sunday's drive was about 800 miles, which took about 12 hours, and the drive home was off to a great, relatively easy start.

Here's how my car sat outside my buddy's place in Iowa on Monday morning

When I left Iowa Monday morning, my destination was headed to Anthony's (@apeacock) house near Buffalo, NY.  Monday held about 850 miles of driving, which was about 13 hours of driving.

Stopped for gas in PA.  I had a hard time with card reader on the pumps though....

Made it to Anthony's around 10pm, took him for a quick test drive, and then face-planted into the extremely comfortable bed in his guest room.

Monday morning before I left his house, Anthony took this photo of our wagons together

Made good time on my way back to Troy on Tuesday morning - at this point, 300 miles seemed like a short drive to me   I got to enjoy some really nice views in the mountains in western NY:

Here's how the odometer when I made it home:

The entire trip was 1960 miles, and I managed an average of 26.8 mpg at an average speed of 70 mph.  All of this was calculated from the trip computer. 

And here's how my two wagons sat when I got the office on Tuesday at noon:

Earlier tonight I got it registered in NY, so now the build can begin.  Stay tuned, this should be a fun project and I'm very excited to get working on it  

The car: Pacific blue pearl 98' C70 hard top with 205k miles. Everything is stock and the interior is in great shape. Transmission seems solid, turbo works great.

2.3L 5cl T5(I think) high pressure turbo stock.

Things I have paid to fix: A/c compressor replaced - new tires - rebuilt left front axel, replaced right front axel - new sway bar - leaking coolant line -Both front struts and strut mounts replaced.

Things I did: front DH side fender replaced, new fuel filter, minor interior/exterior cosmetic detailing, New headlight wipers, replaced headlights.

Things still to do for the ol' beast: oil leak seems to be getting worse but I have my eye on it. Guy at the shop I went to says the worst of it seems to be coming from the oil cooler line so I'm going to start there. 

After getting the struts done I was hoping the squeaking sound would be gone when going over bumps but it would appear the squeaking sound was not one sound, but a series of squeaking sounds. Ball joints come to mind.. But what do I know? 

There is a repetitious clunking sound coming from the front of the car when I steer while not moving say, when pulling out of a parking space. You have to crank the steering wheel while the car is not moving. That's when it happens. Power steering rack? Anyone had this problem?

DH window is still stuck at half way up because the switch went wonky which is odd because it still rolls the passenger side up and down and the lock buttons work too. I took him for a diagnostics. Guy said its ether the regulator or the switch. The window has been an issue since i bought the car. I really want the window up.  

There is other things that I worry about but I think i'm just being paranoid 

my gauge says TEMP sometimes. When I looked it up, it said that the temp gauge most likely got unplugged and that I could find the gauge under my front bumper. I didnt see anything. 

I'm going to start with the leak first.

I figured since my progress thread got archived I would at least give ya'll an update. Still driving it like I stole it as long as it's warmed up. Love that turbo whine sound. Is it weird to have dreams about your car?

Last week, a 1998 Saffron V70R popped up for sale just a few hours away from me. The miles were high, and it was a little riced from what I could tell by the pictures. (black plastidip, smoked tails, etc..), but the price was quite a bit lower than any other I had found, so I decided to go take a look.  

From what I can tell, it was basically stock except for a cobbled together exhaust, and the random parts that the previous owner decided to paint. It needs a bit of work (detailed below), but it did drive decent, A/C worked, and was complete. It will make a great daily once I put in some work, It's cool enough that I don't mind a station wagon, but it's not in such good condition that I will feel bad about it being driven all year in Indiana. So I decided to bring it home. Here are a few pics on the way back home:

Once I got it home, I obviously the first thing I had to do was get some pictures of the matching pair together. Now I am getting really excited about this project!

Now that it's home I was able to give a more thorough looking over. It's going to need a lot of work, I mean a complete stage zero, plus front suspension. and several other things.

Got it in the shop.

Here's the list of good things:

-Body is very good for the age/miles. Some dents and dings, but virtually no rust. Just very slight along the bottom of the pinch welds. should clean up easily.

-Driveshaft is still there. Can't really tell condition, but it's there, and there isn't much of a vibration other than junk tires.

-Interior condition is pretty good, leather and suede will clean up nicely, and I can replace the ricey painted parts easily from the junk yard

-While it needs a lot of maintenance, the engine is in good shape, checked compression and they were 165-170 on my old harbor freight gauge that normally reads low. the cam lobes under the oil cap look great

-It's a freakin Saffron V70R..

Here's what it needs...

- Stage zero, I mean everything!

-Timing belt/water pump/thermostat/front seals/drivebelt

- PCV system

- Complete ignition tune up (found autolite plugs and autozone wires, ugh)

- All rubber hoses

- Bottom of intercooler is cracked where someone put some sort of rigged up drain plug. Need to replace and might as well do the radiator while I'm at it.

- It's got an oil leak on the back of the engine that I still need to diagnose Assuming something going to/from the turbo, or turbo itself. Someone put that stupid angle gear in the way and I can't see crap. 

- I think axle seals are bad too.

- I'll throw the oil pan o-rings in it too for good measure

- ABS module needs the soldier joints retouched.

- CEL for rear O2, Air pump system (will delete that junk), and the P0107 for the stupid baro sensor.

- New Exhaust

- All front suspension (tie rods, control arms, CV axles, links, IPD subframe bushing inserts, etc..) Strut assemblies seem surprisingly ok for now 

- Brakes all around

- E-brake cables broken

- Front right door lock actuator

- Have 2 remotes, even with new batteries, they don't work.. 

- Sunroof assy works sketchy and has caulk on it. I'll find another at the junkyard.

- Various cosmetic doo-dads that I can get from the junk yard

It needs more, but that list should get it on the road and reliable anyways. The goal is to have it up and going by winter because my in-laws want to buy the silver 850 before then.  I've never had an AWD car before, especially a P80, so thanks in advance for help with all of the dumb questions, and expect a lot of them regarding the AWD system.

Here are the rest of the pictures I've taken so far:

The half-arse drain thingy on the intercooler that cracked it:

Here's the oil leak area:

Needs brakes, the wheels are just plastidip, but I'm scared what they look like underneath..

The underside is in relatively decent shape for being a midwestern car:

Here's how it sits for now, for a while probably:

2016

1 month pure stock, then tune to 160kw. Not enough, bought 16t turbo. Local guy tuned motronic 4.4, made pops and bangs, was fun 😄*never went to dyno, butt dyno says it had around 190kw. Broke engine after summer, bent all rods coz i didn`t care about engine health anymore since i knew it wont hold 300+ safe.*

*

2017

2.0l 132kw engine from s60 (the one with 9.5 compression)

k24 turbo, e85, walbro 255, siemens deka 630cc, some crap fmic from iveco daily, self tuned, made 302hp/500nm at 1bar, was very rich at dyno, lots of misfires coz of that (at street was all perfect at 1.6 overboost, tappering to 1.4 bar, guesses around 330hp, but turbo was old, tired, broke the turbo after 3 months of driving). Bought forged rods, opened engine, and then realised 139.5 ones wont fin. Overall engine was in good shape, but i was lazy to put it back together, everything went to metal, oh well... Then bought hx35 turbo with 54mm 7 blades wheel and started to look for b5234t engine.*

2018

Found engine, with forged rods, very cheap, had only 4k km after rebuild. Skipped year, was gathering parts suchs as full alu radiator, tubular manifold, 600x300x100mm intercooler, piping, brakes, wheels, standalone ecu..

2019

Winter ended with making all engine wiring for Ecumaster Emu Classic, puting brakes, etc.

Found Brembo calipers from alfa romeo, bought Rottinger slotted disk, 336mm front, stock diameter rear. Ferodo premier pads, some nice BBS wheels, 8j front, 9j rear. with 225/45 semi slick tyres up front, 245/40 rear. Also changed fuel pump to Walbro 450, did some wiring upgrade for it, also bought siemens deka 875cc injectors, FPR regulator. After puting everything together, spent maybe a week, till i managed to start the car with standalone ecu without tune, no base map, nothing, 5 evenings sent just to make the car start.. Few more days to make it run from garage on herself. And sadly, engine wasn`t in so good shape as i thought, 30km later, just when i went for base tune to a locar tuner, lost oil pressure at 1.3 bar WOT 3rd gear, spun all bearings, 2 rods became black, 2 bearrings melted and became part of crank, yay! Good thing i had crank from 2017 season engine and new set of cxracing rods. Rebuilded engine with new crank, new rods, stock pistons and rings was still in good shape, so i left them. King racing rods bearing, King main bearings, D5 oil cooler, etc etc. Finally engine was runing great, did 100km break in, changed oil for Valvoline vr1 10w60, went to tune it again. Lots of boost leaks, boost coming very slow ant late, 1.5 bar 435ag/580nm... Tuner said my engine cant breath or turbo is maxed out (boost solenoid DC at 50% only, with 0.8 bar base pressure spring. Okay, weekend at garage, fixing boost leaks. Decided to tune it myself, since i had pretty much good map allready, good ignition table. 1.9 bar "overboost" tappering to 1.8 at 6k, 1.7 at 7k rpm(or backpressure, or wastegate spring was over, 100% duty cycle and couldn`t raise boost anymore). Injectors duty ~88-90% at 3.5bar base fuel pressure (siemends deka 875cc@3bar). 449ag/644nm, sounds a bit better, finnaly car is kinda fast, even without LSD i managed to make 0-100kmh in 5.5s, and 9s 1/8 mile in few tries, even did 8s 100-200 with rolling anti-lag. Without it, best i managed, was 8.6 (rev`ing to 6.8, when no point to rev more than 6.2 as i saw later, after looking at logs and trying different variations of gear change). Boost by gear* helps a lot. Sadly, B.itch broke after 1.2k km......

Some pictures from build before engine decided to brake.

 
And look what broke! Log was clean, no detonation, no lean afr, nothing bad. Just few pulls, and lots of smoke...* Spark plugs looks good, still have no idea what went wrong 😞Bye bye cylinder #5. Funny thing, all rest looks good, pistons, rods, rings, ringlands, bearings, everything good everywhere except #5..* TBH even #5 piston didn`t broke, just melted a bit from cylinder wall.

Cyl #5 rod bearings, ony ones wich in bad shape

Piston looks like it hit the head, but on head no marks indicating this happened, also i don`t understand how this is possible, unless crank broke, or somehow it got bent in few pulls. Coz this happened few days after last dyno. Overall i drove around 400km with 1.8-1.9 bar, and i took this car to drive not for simple cruise, but for WOT runs,* to have some fun. (don`t mind grooves from valves, not my job, old engine owner broke smth, and used these pistons in next engine, budget builds, you know... 😄*)

AAAAAAAAnd plan for 2020

*

Got tired of braking stuff. Bought built b5204t (that old one, with 77 stroke, 8.4 comp. ratio). Engine was built 5 years ago for drag racing, by local builders who proven by community, they have hands how to build engines. Domes around cylinders, custom head studs, custom FCP rods (4mm wider than china ones). Fully rebuilt and ported head with hidro lifters. All cleaned, changed what was necessary, everything measured. Engine was never fired, a guy left project for few years. Took it apart for cleaning, didn`t liked glyco bearings (not sputter ones, wtf).* The difference of rods/pistons 2.0 vs 2.3 🙂

Yes,* both rods is same lenght! Since there is no 2.0 forged pistons, i will make 2.3 from this block, don`t like the design of 2.0 pistons, and since i`m lucky with oil pressure, it will be way easier to get 90mm crank instead of 77 one, just in case, you know 😄

Some pics of block and head ports

Soooo, winter was lazy, now coz of virus, things not going fast as i want also. Engine is almost ready to drop in, LSD is in. I actually was kinda surprised how gearbox internals are in excellent shape.

Idk if i was smart, but ordered wiseco 81.25 oversize, block was in really good shape, just needed minor oversize. MLS headgasket ofc, 12.9 metal head studs, torqued to 130nm with arp lube.  I did rings kinda loose, 0.5mm top and 0.55mm 2nd. King`s main bearings, glyco sputter rod dones, RN oil pump, d5 oil cooler. A friend helped me with head porting, went all in basicly. And sadly, no cams for now, will try GLT ones (maybe someone can give some guidelines on how to time these cams for 64mm turbo?). Waiting for custom turbo to arive in few weeks, then i can drop engine in and take car to shop for exhaust manifold and downpipe, some pipes fabrication. Oh, and also bought kl racing intake manifold. That thing will need more work than i expected. Lots of gasket matching, cast/welds grinding, vacuum ports welding (or maybe i`ll just weld some plate for "vacuum tree"). Dunno yet, but i think i`ll need to modify termostat housing a bit, for manifold to fit, also relocate temp sensor somewhere else.

Spent half day porting that "almost bolt on" kl racing manifold (some casting still gonna need some shaving, i didn`t had enough lenght drill bits to do that for now). Holes for bolts needed to be raised up about 2mm, runners needed to be shaved kinda a lot. Thermostat housing will need 20mm adapter plate to be raised up. Also gonna need adapter for 960 throttle body (all would be fine if not TPS sensor and spring). Oh, and also i had to cut some of the flange of intake, it was hiting thermostat housing lower parts.

Some updates.
Made throttle body adapter, termostat housing adapter, changed place of CLT sensor. Manifold is welded, ghetto connections for vacum lines, idle, brake booster. Everything kinda fits, except TB touches coolant radiator fan housing (will try lower all radiator about 10mm, problem should be solved, else i`ll just cut a piece from fan housing). Still need to figure out how to connect cable to TB, make some bracket to hold oil level dip stick, connect few coolant hoses, some minor things. 
Also, finally my turbo arrived. Turbosystems HX4064b1, proven for solid 750 at the crank.

Well, things are going slow. Kinda finished intake side, changed control arms to pre `94 with poly bushing from kl racing, changed gearbox torque mount bigger bushing to poly one, right side mount to MPRE custom one, did some PCV "fix" for high boost and waiting for my exhaust manifold to be finished. Like allways, when i`m doing something to the car, keep forgeting to make pictures if everything will go by the plan, car should be runing in a week, max two.

Manifold is finally rdy, machined flanges surfaces to be flat, did some hammering to few runners, needed to make 2mm extra clearance near valve cover Turbo is in! Cold side had to be clocked a little more, than it is on the photo. I`m surprised how much room left everywhere around turbo (except rear pillow bracket)

So i`ve been working on car past few weeks almost at nights, to get it ready for local drag event (1/4 mile).  Only few photos from all finishing touches Got car tuned only few days before event, no time even to learn how it drives, but i`m very happy how this family sedan turned out. Pulls like a train (need cams, spings, engine feels like it asks for more rev range, ol), no leaks, no bugs, spent all weekend driving quarter mile 1 run after another with 33+ temperature outside, very hot day. IAT was 50-60, sometimes 70c, car holds like a tank Drag event was held in one of town public streets, so u can`t expect good grip there. I also saw how bad is "drift" semi-slick tyres with huge TW numbers, needs loooots of heat to even start to work a bit. On the dyno we had falling boost, not reaching it`s target, supposed to hold 2.1bar, but ended with 2bar, i think with 2.2 solid, on colder day, could be 600 easy. 1st day we tuned with 6800rpm rev limited (don`t ask why, tune error), we made 500 with 1.85bar, played with ignition, a bit more boost, and few runs later 550 with 2.1bar, power peak@6.2k rpm. Fixed bugs, went on dyno next day, a bit hotter day, +10c higher intake temps, just with rev limiter set at 7500, made 564, even boost was a bit lower

Controller is set using a phone app via BT

He makes these plug 'n' play for VW applications. In my case I had him ship with 1 metre pigtails off the controller & I added the Volvo-specific male/female harness connectors.

Volvo uses 1.5mm & 2.8mm YESC series (Yazaki) terminals in the Molex 12 pole DEM connector housings

Add the factory grommet before the external male end connector

Just needs the male connector now

A bridge set of 2 wires (5,6 CANhigh CANlow) had to be added due to the way Volvo wires the haldex controller CANbus loop. The device only needs 4 wires (1,2 power&ground & 3,4 CANhigh CANlow) to operate

add ABS harness through grommet before install

install location under rear seat, right side

unit is velcro'd in place, like the Volvo fuel module in same location on left side under seat

reinstall protector plate

reconnect & anchor harnesses under car

reinstall splash guard

Remove Volvo Haldex Gen2 Module & install VW-based Gen2 unit - solenoid & valve are Volvo-supplied Gen2. It's just different software that requires the replacement. If the Volvo Gen2 units could be re-flashed with the VW Gen2 software, it would make the conversion several hundred dollars cheaper.

Once wired, Controller is then paired with phone app via BT

Unfortunately for me, that's not the end of the story. The VW controller was wreaking havoc with the Volvo CAN network. disabling the CAN inputs doesn't prevent data transfer, & the car is rejecting the transplant

Tach & coolant gauges also drop out as the system cyles between the two prevailing system errors

I disconnected the CANhigh & CANlow inputs to the controller for now. Car can't be driven. Since this controller is also designed to function as a standalone on vehicles pre-dating CAN, basic function (% of engagement) should be available, I just won't have all the niceties until Jeroen can review some data logs & (presumably) write appropriate code to make the Volvo-side happy.

I have a CANUSB convertor that he recommended to extract data via software he provided, so I can give him data logs to review.

The initial problem turned out to be the way Volvo looped the CAN high/low on the DEM/output side of the circuit - the controller blocks the CAN broadcast off the input side. Once I removed the two CAN signal wires that loop from the DEM to the ADM and from there to the SWM, everything was fine (from that perspective).

Overall wiring layout (except for 5,6 removed from connector 64/50 for now):

The AOC doesnt seem to be working though. With his app I can change the % of engagement in increments from 100/0 (essentially off) to 50/50. At 50/50 there should be no front wheelspin when launching, with mine it makes no difference. If the data displayed in his app is accurate, the recorded system temp (198C) is way over the Volvo predetermined cut off point of 105C (taken from info in VIDA section 465/DEM design & function). Looking around, others have had problems with this low cut off & apparently there was a service fix. I’m not sure how relevant that data is though, since I’m using the VW Gen2 DEM now. I’m waiting for a response from him as to how to proceed.

in the screenshot of the Settings window, it shows the Controller Temp @ 34C - but that may mean the head unit, not the AOC controller (DEM) so now I don't know what is going on. I'll wait until I hear back before considering about what to do next.

Put in a new oil temp / pressure sensor as that was the most likely candidate. Along with a new Volvo seal kit. VW sells it for less, but no stock in the US

Still front wheel burnouts, without trying very hard

After that, I wired in an OBDII port for just the Haldex DEM, so it can be read. I also ran a new harness I made for the Leak Detection Pump, as the codes for that are recurring, and I figured the harness repair I made when I did the install was the most likely culprit. 

CAN high, CAN low, power & grounds TS 090 terminals & housings

EVAP Pump harness 

into the 64/51 connector, pins 9-12. Yazaki terminals

pump end

terminals & connector from Mouser

ran new harness behind heat shield over subframe, sheathed in DEI 

No more error codes.

On the Haldex front, using VCDS ( a saga in of itself), I can extract data from the DEM

error code confirms original temp/pressure sender was an issue

what is apparent now is that the system thinks the eBrake is on, so no wonder it's not operational

pump pressure & AOC temps are good

More to figure out.

Oct 2020: VanDerVeer finally figured out why his controller wasn't working with my unit - when running some tests using Volvo solenoid & sensor with the VW module, apparently there is a glitch in Gen2 control - the chosen mode has to be cycled off/on with the car running to activate the AWD. So, I have working AWD again, very happy. He will work on fixing the software glitch.

With that, I started providing him with CAN data logs (through CAN Monitor Pro)  to determine Volvo settings for throttle, brake, eBrake, rpm and speed signals. 

Once he is done, there will be a setting in the app that allows you to choose what auto manufacturer the CAN signals originate from, so that all the modes will be usable. 

Right now, I can only use the Lock mode & set the percentage of split

Also added a Quaife posi to a spare rear --

Ring gear is now transferred & welded to the new rear LSD. $250 later it's done. Now I have to install the new bearings (32008X/Q) and check the backlash.

He said it was a royal pita to essentially machine the old diff out of the ring gear, the welds were deep

Note: 999-7160 special tool required to remove rear axles without damage to casing

Installed the carrier bearings 32008X/Q x2

about an hour or so to get the mating surfaces free of anaerobic sealant remains

preload/gear offset shim on right side, left side gets the backlash adjuster

right side cup & preload/gear offset shim going in

diff in, cover sealed with anaerobic sealant, torqued to 18ft/lb

new axle seals 8653928 x2

preload set (5.25 turns), then used old seal to install new seals

Had to drill & tap the remains of the rear CV, it was jammed in the pinion flange

Next I can remove the flange, and replace the Haldex filter & rebuild the pump.

Extracted the torque mount bushing. The Manual version is a different composition than the Auto.  Not a fun job

Used part of a three-jaw puller and a X1/9 rear hub bearing to pull it into the housing

Also changed the two filter/vents fo rth Haldex & Diff

31256914 bush  30681138 x2 filter/vent

And for giggles, the last picture I have of it since I haven't driven it for 26 months, and when we were an all Volvo family.

OG T5power aka Goldmember here, back again. Got out of my 2013 S60 T5 AWD and my 2006 Lexus LS430, and bought a 2018 S90 T6 Inscription in late June. I also had it Polestar Optimised. This is my favorite vehicle I have ever owned, and is well worth the upgrade over the S60 I had. I added a V90 R-Design lower valance, R-Design grille, HEICO SPORTIV Springs & Block spacers, H&R 20mm spacers, those were needed to add the freshly-powdercoated 20" Cratus wheels I had done. a few other minor things like tint, debadged partially, and blacking out the window trim. Enjoy!

Regards,

-Corey

Anyway,  Some updates:

Pulled the engine and trans recently. It was dirty, like damn I need three pairs of rubber gloves just to touch it dirty.  240K on the clock leaves a lot of sludge behind.  Plan to power wash the bay before doing anything else. Once I get it clean, the IPD sway will go in.

Installed the Ohlins up front with the TME springs, as well as the High Carbon 330mm Brembo discs and Big Red Calipers. This color combo will work, oh yes, it will work very well.

The brakes are now to big for the 17" wheels to go back on. The wheels do actually clear the calipers by about 1/16", but the spokes do not clear the bottom of the calipers. It could with spacers... but why bother, I have to get the 18" Ronal R39's ready anyway... Now, what color to have them powder coated...

Quite a difference in disc size

Also Started the interior change over. The rear seats are completely changed over to the light grey inserts. The front seats will come out soon to replace the heater core and so some electrical work, as well as change out the pedal box, shifter cables and shifter

Nothing to check off the list yet, but a lot of it is in the works.