Dusan

Dusan

problem yesterday. I drove the car in the morning with no problems, went to start it a few hours later and I have CEL. Don't currently have access to my DICE (clone) so used my cheap Bluetooth OBD2 - see attached results.

I checked all wiring I could get to - found some damaged cable/exposed copper which I wrapped. Cleared faults and checked again, this time I'm getting P0206 (injector wiring). I cannot find any damaged cable going to injector 6.

Could it be an electrical fault with the actual injector? 

On a side not, I upgraded/retrofit the cluster to a TFT a while back and while the POWER gauge has never worked as intended, it would rise and fall with acceleration. Now, however, it will rise when ignition is switched on - it bounces around with revs - and after approx 10 secs it just drops. When I clear faults it jumps back up again for 10 or so secs, then dies again. It's as if it is receiving no electrical signal. All other dash readouts appear to function correctly. I have checked wiring at the cluster and OBD2 port - all seems good. 

Thanks

1. ABS light is on my code reader didn't pick up anything for all of these lights on

2. AWD don't work i replaced the dim2.

3. Traction don't work

4. Brake light is on sometime it turn off for 30 sec so it counts the km then turns back on. Also sometime when braking the abs will randomly kick and on dry road only going slow. It will press back so I can't press in down and make a grinding sound

5.SRS light is on

6. The fan is always on and kicks on even when it is cold out like has soon the engine is running. That might be bad coolant level sensor

7. Turbo is leaking oil. Sure I rebuild buy new or junk yard pull?

No sure where to start or what to start looking into these problems, what code reader should I buy that won't brake the back. I'm located in Canada

Thank you

its time to do the timing belt on my S60 2.5T and i have a bit of a confusion as i get different answers from everybody.

Let's begin like this; I know how the job is to be done but have questions regarding the VVT

As i understand the 2.5T has 2 VVTs unlike the other models only have 1, when doing the timing belt i have seen some use the Cam locking tool to ensure that the camshafts do not move and some do without.

I can link a video with this here where they use the tools and "zero" the vvts: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=319G0Ohfelw&lc=UgxILbTqEz7NPsgaOEZ4AaABAg.ABit639GdQAABiwEEybwj9

And on other they zero the motor and remove the pullyes and tensioners and put the new pulleys on and belt without any locking tools or resetting the vvts.

Which you can find here: https://charm.li/Volvo/2003/S60 2.5T AWD L5-2.5L Turbo VIN 59 B5254T2/Repair and Diagnosis/Maintenance/Timing Belt/Service and Repair/Timing Belt%2C Replacing/

Some say that you need to zero the VVTS and thats why they use the cam locking tool.

In the original instructions it do no say anything about using said tool to do it.

It do says to find the marking and zero the motor. After that turn the motor 1/4 rotations clockwise and then counter clockwise untill the markings line up.

When doing the counter clockwise rotation the tensioner will untension itself to ensure the vvt do not move when you remove the belt.

All help is appreciated.

So - no fan, heat, AC. Nada. Here's my question:

A month or so ago I had the cabin filter replaced. I was going to do it myself, but my shop only charged $20 to do it. I *think*  the climate system never worked after that. (I don't use the car much so I can't say for sure.) Some videos I saw about changing the filter showed one (maybe two?) wiring harnesses up in the area of the filter that had to be disconnected when making the change. So I'm wondering if that's the case then maybe the wiring has something to do with the climate system and it wasn't re-connected. Long-shot I know ...

I checked the fuse, and it's ok. There's a bigger fuse/breaker thing under the fuse block that I could get at, but didn't check. (Man, it was a bugger getting at it!) If I do get it out, how to check it? (I have VOMs.)

So - any comments or ideas appreciated!

My scanner will give real time values-

Air mass and RPM values -4g/s at 648 rpm ,9.57 g/s at 1505 rpm and 14.77 at 2134 rpm

Do these values indicate MAF is good or bad?

Fuel rail pressure is 69 psi, is this good?

Don't see any obvious vacuum leaks.

Any help or suggestions as to what else to check will be appreciated.

Thank you

2006 xc70 ocean race. 

I typically frequent Turbobricks since I have a 760, but it's swapped to a 2.5t 5 cylinder so I thought I might have more luck here. Project thread if you're interested:

https://www.turbobricks.com/index.php?threads/760-5-cylinder-scratching-a-10-year-itch.341191/ 

I'm running a bmw 6 speed trans, with a 850 single mass flywheel. I daily this car and I'm over the gear noise and want to swap to a dual mass, but the input shaft is quite short on the GS6-37 transmissions which are designed for a pilot bearing in the flywheel. Anyways, trying to find the height of an assembly flywheel/clutch/pressure plate assembly to the surface of the pressure plate fingers to see if this is even an option for me. Can anyone help me out?

Thanks!

In garage because trees above driveway are the meeting place for zillions of starlings and they take great pleasure in making my car white. Really - in a day thay can make a really gross mess. Hood up and cover off - well, TWICE I've had mice discover just how delicious the wiring harness is as they make their home under the cover. So, you get it.

The end result is that the hood is opened and closed with much more regularity than "normal". (And - let's face it - the car is fifteen years-old.) About 50 closings ago I started to have the warning show up that the hood was open. It wasn't - but a firm bump down on it made the warning go away. Until it didn't ... Three or four bumps would do it. And now it just won't go away no matter what.

THE HOOD IS CLOSED! TIGHT! REALLY!

So, I guess it's some little sensor that has lost it's touch and Volvo would want to replace the engine to fix it. 🙂

I love fixing stuff but kind-of gave up after my 1980 245 DL passed away. 

So - any pointers on how to fix this? If it means permanently disabling the sensor I'm fine with that.

Bob

Part numbers:

9995662 - Compression/Press Tool, Clutch

9995663 - Centering Tool, Clutch Plate

9995675 - Sleeve/Centering Tool, Clutch Plate

9997068 - Counterholder, Self Adjusting Clutch Assembly/Fixation Tool

9997120 - Gear Selector/Gear Segment 

Can anyone point me in the right direction. Looking to rent or buy. I can pay however you like. I just need these so I can finish my car. My mechanic sent me pictures of what I need, and I have attached them for reference.

Thanks for any input or help!

I bought an 07 XC70 and a huge selling point to me was the ABL (active bending lights), because I thought it would be nice to have them, it's a pretty rare option.

When I bought it they were pointed straight down, like a foot in front of the bumper, it was horrible. The oem 4C suspension had been replaced with coilovers, and ALL the sensors were gone. So I started by replacing the rear left sensor, figuring I could re calibrate the lights using vida. The HID non 4c cars only have 1 sensor. The 4C cars have sensors all around. Anyway it turns out you need all 4 sensors operating to calibrate the lights. The rear right sensor wont read in vida unless the fronts are connected. You don't need 4c shocks at all, only the rear height sensors and the front accelerometers. Those are super pricey, but I was lucky enough to find some in the junkyard that works. I just plugged them in loose at the shock tower in the engine bay. When it started working they all read voltage on vida. I turned the manual adjusters on the headlights all the way back down, did the calibration, i actually heard the headlight motors come back up! Victory! From there I actually unplugged the adjusters so they cant go back down when I unplug the accelerometers. With those unplugged the headlights are still 100% functional, they wont adjust according to load, but its a small sacrifice to finally have these working again.

Image for attention.

Been reading a lot, getting confused a lot. I am a backyard mechanic. This is my first Volvo.

New to this forum and would like to hear from all of you. Thanks, Tim

Update:  I installed a new engine speed sensor - still no change. Trying everything I just disconnected the hose from charcoal canisters to intake manifold. (A horizontal fitting on the right side of the intake manifold - facing the engine). Checked the suction with a finger and suddenly engine idle smoothed to the normal, the engine reacted to the gas pedal much better then before and engine stopped smoking. Somehow I achieved almost ideal air-fuel mixture. As soon as I reconnect MAF sensor engine stalls. I switched the MAF sensor with a borrowed one - but no change. Where is the buried gremlin?

I have some problems with my volvo 2.4t from 2000.

Idle is rolling from 750 to 850. 

Voltage in idle is jumping up and down even with the alternator disconnectet. 

The sparkplug timing is jumping up and down from 30btdc to 0 btdc. 

The problem only occures and gets worse as the engine heats up.. 

Perfect idle and so on when its cold. 

Any ideas? 

Camshaft and crank sensor is new, 02 sensors working. Maf and map sensor new. 

Throttle is working as it should. 

Thanks 

T5 r-design, 90k miles on block, head just had new valve guides installed (previous owner had timing belt bugger off on the freeway 🤮) 

Volvo head gasket
ARP head stud kit

Process:

1. Chased the threads w a die
2. Put Moly assembly lube (not ARP ultra torque) on blockside threads and headside threads of each stud
3. Studs Threaded into block hand tight
4. Head gasket on
5. Head on
6. Washers on
7. Nuts on
8. Tighten each nut to 35lbft via Volvo recommended torque sequence
9. Tighten each nut to 70lbft via Volvo recommended torque sequence
10. Tighten each nut to 105lbft via Volvo recommended torque sequence
(the above tightening sequence of 35/70/105 is recommended on the ARP instruction slip that shipped w the bolts) 

It started up last night, no issues, shut it down after maybe 20 seconds, went to bed

After work, started up tonight, and in the span of about 30 seconds, this fog show started.

Potential causes I can think of:
1. Should have used ARP ultra-torque on head side and block side or potentially loctite on block side (ARP website says this is fine) 
2. Torque wrench is out of calibration (have used it for 5 years as a breaker bar to loosen stuff since it's a 2' unit. Should not have done this and didn't realize this was a no-no til today. Feel dumb.)
3. I put the head gasket on upside down or something stupid (is this even possible? I remember checking and lining up the holes w the holes on the head gasket I previously removed, maybe I screwed that up)
4. There are 2 dowels between the block and head, but 4 locations the dowels could go into. Does it matter which holes are used?

I super appreciate the help, y'all. 

Seems to be mixed info out there, would it be the one near the PS rack? I'd look myself but don't have the ability 

Part number would be helpful when I look on FCP it only suggests the sensor on the end of the rail

No CEL but just recently after driving for a bit the car would have a rough start and die, not every time, inconsistent at best.

I can keep it running with the pedal and once you get going it stays running. Also noticed some slight hesitation around 3k rpm 1/2 throttle or so, not so bad that it jerks but with the radio off it can be heard. 

Of course the fuel pressure sensor came up in searching

Also would a B5234T3 match up to my car?