I was wondering where to start and how high I can take the performance on it, it’s a b5254t engine, am I able to throw a bigger turbo on it? And what kind of hp can I get out of it before I crack the block?

I just discovered this forum through the Motronic 4.4 tuning thread and I wish I had found it sooner haha

Anyway, here's the deal : I am nearing the end of my engine swap which is a B5254T (from an '97 850, Manual LPT 193hp, Motronic 4.4) in my 740 Wagon. When trying to start it, it started right up, ran fine for a whole second or two, than died right away. I'm pretty confident I have an immobiliser issue, which I hoped this engine didn't have but here we are.

I was looking for somebody to do an immo off on my ECU, but then I found out there's a ton of ressources to do it yourself, so I thought I'd give it a shot.

However, I can't find a LPT 193hp .bin file with immo off, so I was wondering if anyone knew where I could find one ? I found plenty of HPT .bin files, but I'd rather just stick to flashing the ECU with an immo off .bin rather than messing with other parameters to make a HPT work for a LPT.

Bit of a mouthful, sorry about that. I'll add a few pictures of my project to make it more interesting 😆

Thanks in advance !

Looking for ideas on wheels (rims in Australia). Currently thinking of OZ Racing which are easy to get here, specifically Superturismo style:

Looks good, right?

What do other people have?

I have an Alphard as a daily, so looking to have fun with this car despite not knowing too much technically about Volvos and Volvo performance.

I'm thinking the best way forward is a decent turbo. TD04-19T... GTX2867R...? Not really limited by budget, so looking to get the most out of the car in general, starting from increasing HP and then will set the car up with coilovers or whatever needs to be done to make it serious.

Any thoughts and opinions welcome....

• High-Voltage Systems: EVs operate on powerful electric systems that can be extremely hazardous if not handled correctly by a professional. tinkering with these components yourself is a big safety risk.

• Software-Reliant Performance: Unlike traditional car parts you can swap out, much of an EV's performance is controlled by software. Manufacturers lock these settings to optimize battery life and safety. Modifying this software can be risky and might void your warranty.

• Battery Capacity: Increasing an EV's range by installing a bigger battery is tempting, but it's a complex procedure. These batteries are bulky and carefully designed to work with the car's electrical system. Improper installation can lead to malfunctions.

I do find delrin-like bushings but the brass version was waaaaay cheaper (need them for 3 850’s)

Have a 2000 P80 2.4T V70. Swapped manual into out of a ‘98 S70 donor car. Everything is done just up to the wiring part. I’ve read and read but can’t wrap my head around it. 

If anyone has pictures of the way their TCU, reverse and neutral start circuit is all spliced and set up I’d greatly appreciate it. 
 

Even circle and draw on these pictures because I ate crayons in school instead of paying attention 

Also,

Does the TCU need to be plugged in or can the pins just be jumped in to the plug 

But one thing that's really missing on the 850 and '98 S/V70 cars IMO is a variable intermittent wiper control!  Yeah I know, you can get a wiper relay from ipd and others where you can change the intermittent interval time but the UI is terrible; it's a PITA to change the intermittent time interval; you gotta get all jiggy with wiper switch to modify the time.  Link for ipd relay

http://www.ipdusa.com/products/5324/103226-adjustable-delay-intermittent-wiper-relay

The last car i owned with a variable intermittent wiper control was a 2001 MY saturn L200; it just had a knob at the end of the wiper stalk that you twisted to get different time intervals.  Very nice and easy to change interval times.  I don't know about you guys but where i drive the rain/mist rate does not stay constant during my drive; and of course it changes with your speed too.  So (barring rain sensors automatically controlling your wipers..) the knob is a very nice UI.

So I dug into our wiper relays and did some reverse engineering.  There's a RC network that controls the time interval and it's locked down to a 6 second interval.  Actually I did more experimentation than engineering; I can get into more details if anyone is interested but suffice it to say I did figure out a nice mod to add variable intermittent wipers to our cars.

Caveats:

1.  This mod will only allow you to vary the time interval between 4 and 16 to 17 seconds.  I wanted to make it longer than that but that would require more extensive mods to the wiper relay.
2. The mod is not plug and play.  This was disappointing to discover.  i calculated the max resistance necessary to be around 700K ohms IIRC from the U2640B data sheet (link inside below link) but on my 855 it actually came out to 370K.  And on my wife's S70 it came out about 520K.  I.e. you will have to tune each installation a bit.
3. Couple more items I forgot about...  when in delay mode above about 10s or so the wipers will park a bit higher than normal.  Not a big deal; if you go from intermittent delay mode to off, just do a single wipe and they'll return to the normal park position.
4. If in the max delay intermittent mode and you pull the stalk toward you to wash the windshield, the time that the wipers run after the wash will be extended.  If this becomes an issue for you just turn the pot to the shorter time position and will return to normal operation.

Here's a link to some pics illustrating the mod.  I did it to both our cars now and it's one mod the Mrs definitely approves of!  Basically there's a 200K resistor in your wiper relay.  Remove it, and run two wires to a pot.  You could install the pot in the dash for simplicity but it's very handy if you install it in the backside of the wiper switch; a small enough pot will actually fit.  I twisted the two wires (to help noise immunity) and ran them up the left side of the steering column; be careful with your routing so they don't get pinched when the steering wheel is moved.  I have an inline two pin connector to ease install.  Like I said you may need to tune the resistance range a bit before finalizing the install.  On my car the pot resistance range is 0-370K ohms but on the S70 it came out 100K - 520K range.  I don't think it was because of different models; I think it's just because of the tolerances in the different relays.  YMMV.  I have a bunch of resistors I used for trimming but you could use trim pots too to make it quicker.  The first pots I bought turned out to be junk (couldn't handle the soldering heat) but the part label in the pics worked well.  Let me know if you questions.  I can add more details later..

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/8cvhfgho63ekwk6/AABwqlK3J4BBTpv4bmYqoI-ia?dl=0

Oh yeah; getting the back off of the wiper switch can be a biaaaaatch; the bone tool and/or a thin dull blade screwdriver works well.  Just go slow and heat may help too.  I can draw up a simple schematic if that would help.

Got a 99 2.4T V70. Posted about a year ago about power mods etc. Learnt a whole lot since then but still looking for answers on a few pressing issues.

Done the cheap(ish) and easy mods, intake all the way to turbo, rip, cbv, ipd tcv (apparently POS) plus a lot of unrelated suspension stuff. Got the stage 1 BSR tune on sale awhile back and the PPC unit as well. Used to be great. Gave mates a good surprise and was fun.

Ran about 15psi but was very erratic. Boost would build, creep, cut out and do all sorts. Started to blow off the silicone couplers on the charge pipes after a bit which is when I put the CBV off a 16t in to see if it would cure this issue. Results were varied. Seemed to go away so continued for a bit with it then got the intake setup.

Now boosting to 18psi which i’ve heard is danger zone for these motors and seen it creep higher into 19-20psi. Once again still erratic. I’ll try and get a video to show you all. Would love to find the cause for that ASAP as that’s sending off alarm bells

Also around a similar time found out that the dipstick blows out under sustained high loads. Speeds over 120-130kmh with foot flat. Doesn’t happen at lower speeds with my foot flat. Heard a few answers from a large amount of people and a lot of them were saying bad rings which is pressuring the crankcase. Any opinions welcome. 

Lastly the gearbox. Has held up exceptionally to the abuse i’ve thrown at it but now it’s starting to show signs of its age. It’s a 4spd auto which was swapped into the car at some point. 1st-2nd shift thuds really bad. Seems to be worse with no load. Taking off from lights briskly leads to almost no thud whereas crawling away it’s pretty bad. Noticed it went away with a new torque mount but found its way back again, then installed coilovers and repeat that process. Noticed the thud has ever so slightly crept into 2nd-3rd shift but it’s barely noticeable.

And now just recently reverse doesn’t want to engage. Almost as if it’s a manual. On anything other than perfectly flat ground I have to rev up to about 4k rpm for it to take off. And it won’t stay engaged either. Have a feeling this is the end of the line for that aspect but if you have any tips or know something that I don’t please let me know.

Really appreciate your time

Cheers 🍻

Should’ve said this before hand. Wasn’t sure if this belonged in the performance section considering the nature of the car so please excuse me if it should’ve gone elsewhere 

let me know im new here on forum.  really want to do this mod specifically or just delete it with an intake from a non vvis.  im not technologically inclined enough to make my own module maybe i should start there haha

Forgot to mention, there are a few maps labeled NTBD. There is a problem with these maps, most just don't have the axis internally linked.

I'm planning on upgrading the OEM 16T turbo 

Current mods :

3" custom downpipe no cat

3" custom exhaust 

Schutten stage 2 software running 1.2 bar

Making 290-300hp to the crank currently (European dynos are very strict ) 

I have green injectors going in with the new turbo

Turbo upgrade:

I'm doubting between the Mitsubishi 20T with billit wheel and the Mitsubishi 22T with billit wheel from speeding performance

20T

https://www.speedingparts.eu/p/turbo-accessories/turbo/mitsubishi-turbocharger/mitsubishi-td04-20t-billet-competition.html

22T

https://www.speedingparts.eu/p/turbo-accessories/turbo/mitsubishi-turbocharger/mitsubishi-td04-22t-billet-competition.html#

My goal is at least 360 at the crank on a Dyno here ( remember European dynos are very strict )  anything more would be nice offcourse but keeping it realistic as these small turbine housings are very restricted

My main worries are high egt off course with such a big wheel in a little td04 this is going to be unavoidable to some point. I do however want to make the most power possible and don't destroy the engine by melting a piston

I know K24 turbo will be the better choice but these are very hard to find here !! 

And these plug and play td04 turbo's are just really tempting

My question:

Someone on here running 1 off these turbo's or have experience with them  ? Or same size turbo from other brand ?

What do you guys think is best for my goal ? 

Thanks in advance guys 

Have a nice monday

To preface: everything I've read till now was that one should never do said swap, however, I was given a manual 850 GLT wagon and a crashed automatic T5-R sedan for free. I've proceeded to ignore everything the forums have said and go ahead on the swap. my username is apt as this is the first time I've done anything Volvo. I'm a BMW guy. I've done a few OBDI and OBDII engine swaps on BMWs, been around the block with manual swaps a few times as well. 

The wagon is a 95 OBDII car. The T5 was a 96 OBDII car. I grabbed the motor, all the engine wiring harnesses's, cluster, steering column, motor, radiator and bunch of smaller things off the crashed T5. I've swapped the motor into the wagon with all the wiring harnesses, I pulled the dash out and put the turbo dash harness and cluster in. Basically the front half of the wagon is all turbo parts and the back half of the wagon is all original parts. I pretty much tossed the turbo stuff in and crossed my fingers that it would all just happily work out. Shockingly......it didn't.

The issues I'm running into: I'm getting a no crank condition on the motor and none of the headlights, signals, horn etc are working (but everything on the back half of the car is). I'm getting all the dash lights on the cluster illuminating. If I pull the stalk for high beams, the light on the dash illuminates but the lights don't actually turn on. When I pull the wiper stalk, the wipers do turn on. Something has gone funky somewhere with all the swapping of harnesses. Right now, I'm trying to chase down the no crank issue, I'll deal with the accessories later. 

I haven't managed to find a "successful" swap thread on this swap. Everything is "DONT DO IT, IDIOT" and the thread dies out after that. Is there any repining of DME or modules for this swap. Do any of you have the wiring diagrams from both cars that I could compare to each other. Any other advice or things in general for this swap? Is there any other modifications for this swap needed? 

In conclusion: No, it's not cheaper to sell my wagon and buy an 850 turbo wagon because I got it for free and I can't sell a paperweight for anything close to the cost of an 850 turbo. I am already past the point of no return on this swap. The NA motor and T5-R shell are gone. I have shop space and time to do this swap. In this case, I don't care about my time that I put into it. I have other cars to drive. This is a passion project so all logic is out the window. I hope that quells a majority of the "DON'T DO IT, IDIOT" concerns. 

Fingers crossed for a productive thread on this. 

Thanks in advance! 

Whoops, accidently created secind topic, hiw to delete first one? XD

My 850R that was smashed on the street back in May is on the mend.

The whole front end was destroyed in this, and now I have to rebuild it from the ground up. Wanted folks' opinions on my sway bar situation.

IIRC, '96 Rs are something like 21mm front sway / 21mm rear. I liked the way the car handled pre-crash, on Koni-yellows, beefy end links and a strut tower brace.

But the front sway got destroyed in the crash (along with the subframe, the steering rack, the transmission... oi)

The donor subframe is off an S70, and has it's stock swaybar (which, IIRC should be a 20mm bar). Also can't get Koni Yellows anymore so I'm going to Bilstien B6s.

Am I going to feel a difference at all going from 21/21 sways to 20/21? I like the idea that it'll rotate a little easier (might put a 22mm on the rear later), but will the 20mm make it feel noticeably softer?

I've got no problem plunking down the cash for an IPD set, but it seems like the consensus is 25/22 makes the car understeer?

I've been doing some mods to my 2015 T6 XC70 and the tuner is suggesting a higher flowing fuel pump.

Anybody heard of someone using something different? 

Thanks in advance 

A bit like the Pursuit Mode button KITT has I guess lol, which is also where said idea came from.

cc: @Simply Volvosince he runs a MegaSquirt in basically what I want to build one day: 750 hp 850 TT5/R AWD