Arrakis

Comets

Libra

Pegasus

Titan

Volan

Aftermarket

ASA JH9

BBS LM 3 Piece

BBS RK

Centerline - Excel

Jongbloed Aero 305

OZ Superleggera III

SSW Trex

VST Monoblock R

This database is intended as a quick way for people to view wheels available for their car and photoshop them on to their own car if they wish. If you have the means to help out it would be very appreciated. As the project grows I will update this thread with thumbnails for rapid identification and location of wheels. Requirements for the database are:

1. Wheels must be 1000px in height with a straight on shot. 3/4 and additional shots are nice but not required.

2. Image needs to be a .png with an alpha background.

3. Images need to be uploaded to the wheel gallery,http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/index.php?app=gallery&module=cats&do=sc&cat=5, and have the word "PSready" in the title.

Example:

If you wish to make a submission just reply in this topic with the name of the wheel and a link to the location you uploaded the file. A moderator or myself will update the list above and then remove your post in the interest of keeping clutter down. Any questions may be posted here and will be added to a FAQ at the bottom of the thread. All other post will just be deleted.

you can really buy these LED's anywhere you wish, i'm just showing an example of where you might be able to find these. i have purchased LEDs from V-LEDS.com, autolumination.com, superbrightleds.com, and ebay. the ones i purchased already had resistors built in, cause i just wanted something "plug and play" essentially. but i will give you the website for where you can find these. what i have noticed though, is that v-leds.com sells them by the pair. so dont think that they are overpriced!

so. the list goes like this:

Turn signal indicators, malfunction indicators, mileage and info cluster

the bulb/LED type is 74

You will need:

2x for turn signals

1x for mileage cluster

2x for info cluster

20x for malfunction indicators, although not all indicators are used

the blue bases are for these kinds of bulbs, they are the ones that fit T5 leds. T5 LED is on the left. what i recommend is that the single led like below should be used for turn signals, malfunction indicators, and the mileage cluster. the info cluster you should have a multi SMT (surface mount technology... look it up. i'm not explaining it )LEDs to make even lighting.

Where to buy

http://www.v-leds.com/24-74-NEO-LED/c122298-1-2//page/1/checkForLanding/true

http://autolumination.com/74.htm

http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-bin/store/index.cgi?action=DispPage&Page2Disp=/mini-wedge.html

Gauges, and license plate lights

the bulb/LED type is 194

you will need:

4x for the gauges in the cluster

these are larger bases than the 74 one. on a side note, these are the same type of bases that you can use in your license plate. i dont have a picture of the bulbs, but your LED's should look something (not exactly) like this

Where to buy

http://www.v-leds.com/194-168-158-LED/c122170-1-2//page/1/checkForLanding/true

http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-bin/store/index.cgi?action=DispPage&Page2Disp=/mini-wedge.html

http://autolumination.com/194.htm

Climate control

this is kind of a special case. i tried for a very long time to find the right plug and play replacement for this, because the shaft of the original bulb is extended with a 4mm bulb. the base is also somewhat unfamiliar because it is in between 2 common sizes.

the bulb/LED type i was able to find is NEO 4X

size="4"]you will need:

4x for the CC

Where to buy i could only find them on one website

http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-bin/store/index.cgi?action=DispPage&Page2Disp=/specs/NEO.htm

Radio

the bulb/LED type is T3 i believe these are slightly special. the ones from autolumination are the smallest i could find that could fit

You will need:

5x for radio bulbs, but i recommend buying extras, as these are delicate. other sidenote; if you are going to change over the radio to LED, the diffuser that spreads the light around needs to be milled down a little bit for the bulbs to fit. it is a VERY tight fit

they look like these

Where to buy

http://autolumination.com/74.htm scroll down and look for the ones i just posted

headlight switch & other toggle switches

Headlight switch, Dimmer, Info switch and Heated seat switches

the bulb/LED type is T3 again for these

al other switches use T4

You will need:

5x for the T3 LEDs

6x for the T4 LEDs

the T4 leds are right next to the T3's, obviously

Where to buy

http://autolumination.com/74.htm scroll down, you'll see them

that is all the info i can gather for plug and play. the other parts like the window switches require soldering, someone on the board i am sure is more familiar with that than i am. the other thing is the gear selector for automatic transmissions. this was the only ghetto part i could rig up, because the bulb they use is unique to volvo. i just took an extra 74 type LED and plugged it into the socket, wires just slid in. it looks terrible but you cant see it cause it's all hidden. and then i just taped it in there. all done! the only part i need to fix is the radio. the LED's i used are very old and i need to mill the diffuser out a little more and put some newer ones in. another thing is that i need multi SMT led's in the info cluster because the gauges are SO bright. next up for me is gauge rings and front lit LED's. check it out.

my fingers are tired. enjoy!

Thanks in advance for any tips!

I’ve recently noticed that my car’s exterior is starting to show signs of wear and tear, and I’m considering getting some cosmetic detailing done to bring back that showroom shine. I’ve heard that detailing can involve various techniques and products, so I’m a bit overwhelmed by the options.

Can someone with experience in cosmetic car detailing recommend the best approach for minor scratches and paint imperfections? Also, are there any specific products or services that you would suggest for maintaining the car’s appearance after detailing?

Thanks in advance! Any help would be appreciated. 

Any help in finding out what colour E112 actually is would be greatly appreciated.

Fast forward a year later, and the wood on the wheel has delaminated and begun cracking off. Running my hand over the steering wheel started to feel like bamboo shoots under the fingernails. I peeled the rest of the wood off knowing it was not going to be salvaged, and started to look into options. There are plenty of professional services for rewrapping, but I just couldn't justify spending so much on it. Estimates were $400 or more, and my car would be out of service for several weeks. 

So I looked more closely to see if in fact this is something I could tackle myself, having never done this type of work before. Turns out it really wasn't that hard to swap from wood to "alcantara".

Photo from when the walnut trim was starting to delaminate:

Close up to show substrate underneath wood trim:

Once the wheel was removed, the wood was removed piece by piece, and I laid out the micro suede. The trick here is that the top piece of micro suede needs to be crescent or U-shaped, not a rectangle as shown in the photo. I didn't take a photo of this, however.

The existing leather on the wheel was carefully warmed up and removed, without cutting any of the stitching. The micro suede was then glued using leather glue, while being careful not to get the glue on the existing leather. 

While the glue was drying, I wrapped the micro suede with tape to get some pressure on it. The tape was backwards (sticky side out) so that I didn't start pulling up the micro suede when removing the tape. 

The next step was to do any final trimming of the micro suede, tuck in the edges, etc, and then glue the leather back in its original place. 

The same process was then used for the leather - the tape was wrapped sticky side out, then another layer was wrapped sticky side in (normal orientation) to really get some pressure on the leather while it dried. I'm sure other methods could be used (saran wrap?) but this worked for me, and the leather and micro suede all dried flat. 

The last step was to remove all the tape once the glue dried, and then clean up any areas in need of attention. Overall it came out great, especially considering the low material cost. The micro suede also is a very good match to the R seats in the car. I can take more pics if needed of any details. 

I'm thinking about a repaint for my V70 and digging this blue but can't say I've seen it in person on any Volvo.

I had Nautic Blue (Volvo Dark Blue Metallic 417) so I know it's not that.

Im thinking these are either

 Volvo Turquoise Pearl Metallic 422

or Volvo Aqua Pearl Metallic 431

Any help would be much appreciated. I was trying to use this as a reference https://www.uniquecarsandparts.com.au/colour_swatch_volvo_1998

These occur because of poisons being delivered into the circulatory system. It is prescribed to take supplements like 5-HTP (5-hydroxytryptophan) to assist with controlling the chemicals that influence rest and temperament changes.  Once more, these secondary effects are transitory and will have returned to typical after the purifying is finished.

this photo is the only bit of information i could find on the topic

https://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee372/Colin12596/Volvo SC40_zpsswejayht.jpeg

this photo is the only bit of information i could find on the topic

Thanks for reply 

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I know about the oil drip. Saw it a week ago. 

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The pic above is the worst wheel out of all of them. I just realized I can switch this worse wheel with maybe my spare wheel which is a brand new wheel.

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I'm sure you speeders have seen curb rash a lot. how bad is it?

I just bought the same mirror on Ebay from a 70 series but when I look for a way to replace the mirror I see no tabs or screws to remove the broken mirror. Do I just need to pop the old mirror out of its socket? Is there a hidden release tab or something? I'm hoping I don't have to remove interior fabric or paneling to get the mirror replaced. 

here is a behind the mirror picture.

Thanks again VS.

That is the rubber seals on the roof that has come a bit loose. I have some 3m double sided sticky tape left over from the emblem re attachment. Do you think that would work or would it leave too much space for dirt and grime to get underneath the seal? What adhesive should I use if not 3m tape? 

This is also a bit of an eye sore. The back window showed here.

 what am I looking at here? From my best guess its missing the rubber seal on the back window. The window does not leak or rattle but it does not look very good. Any advice would help thank you.

Wheels are 18x7.5

Should I go with 215/40 or 225/35

Thanks 

850 R FRONT BUMPERS ARE AVAILABLE NEW FOR LESS THAN $200.00. 

ONLY THE LOWER HALF NOT THE DARK GREY UPPER. THOSE HAVE BEEN OUT OF PRODUCTION FOR YEARS. THERE IS NOW ONLY ONE STYLE AVAILABLE AND IT IS THE "R" WITH THE CORRECT ROUND FOG LAMP .

REAR IS ALSO AVAILABLE  SEDAN OR WAGON. THIS BUMPER IS ONE PIECE, CAN'T SEPARATE. 

LATER V70R FRONT AND REAR BUMPERS ARE ALSO AVAILABLE. NOT ALL COLORS ARE AVAILABLE BUT YOU CAN ALWAYS BUY A WHITE ONE AND HAVE IT PAINTED.

IF YOU HAVE NEVER CHECKED TASCA BEFORE,  YOU'RE IN FOR A TREAT. TONS O STUFF IS STILL AVAILABLE.  EVEN SOME OF THE SHITTY INTERIOR PARTS.

850 dashboards suffer a huge design flaw – the mounting points. They are made out of plastic and due to age and wear and tear, they WILL deteriorate and break over time. Unless your 850 has been driven only on smooth roads for its lifetime, I guarantee you have at least some mounts that are broken. Unfortunately, when the mounts break, it puts more stress on the structure of the dash because the weight of the dash is no longer evenly distributed. The increased stress, coupled with driving on bumpy/poorly maintained roads, inevitably leads to cracking in various parts of the dash structure. Many with broken dash mounts will also have cracks in the long, black plastic piece at the top of the dash adjacent to the windshield. The long black plastic piece is attached to the structural parts of the dash, so when the structure cracks, so does that piece.

Here’s a picture showing the stress cracks along the structure of the dash. You can bet there is cracking on the backside of the structure of the dash as well. More on that below.

If you are repairing a used dashboard, you will very likely need to repair/reinforce more than just the mounts. You’ll need to address the structure as well. On a new dashboard, the structure is obviously intact, so you could probably get away with just reinforcing the mounts. But new dashboards are virtually impossible to find – we’re talking about 20+ year old parts here.

Repair methods that do not work:

-Metal strap method on dash mounts: there are many write-ups that show people reinforcing the mounts by attaching metal straps or other metal-based supports. The metal is attached to the structure of the dash with rivets, screws, etc. DO NOT DO THIS. This is the absolute worst thing you can do and it WILL ruin your dash over time. I have personally tried this repair method, and it resulted in a destroyed dashboard. The dash is quieter and more secure at first, but over time, it will break. The problem with this method is that when you drill/screw into the dash to attach the metal supports, you’re actually weakening the plastic structure of the dash. Over time, cracks WILL develop at the drilling/securing points, which will result in further cracking throughout the structure, and ultimately a ruined dash. In short, do not screw or drill into the plastic of dash. Example pics:

AGAIN, DO NOT DO THIS^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

-Gluing/epoxying the dash mounts: this method will only work well if you have zero cracks in the structure of the dash. As mentioned, 99% of you are going to have at least some minor cracking around the dash structure. Reinforcing the mounts is only a band aid fix. The fact that the structure is impaired means it cannot properly support the weight of the dash, or the force of bumps in the road, and it will deteriorate over time. Your mounts will eventually crack off of the dashboard and you’ll be left with a dashboard that “floats” in the cabin, moving around and rattling like crazy.

-JB Weld: I used this on one of my dashboards to reinforce the mounts AND structure. I applied liberal amounts of JB weld on the dash mounts and structure, basically anywhere that looked like it could crack. It has held up for several years now, but I am not confident enough to say that it’s a permanent fix. I’ve seen JB weld crack in other applications, so it’s not the best solution.

Permanent solution: fiberglass. Use fiberglass to reinforce the dash mounts and the structure of the dash. In essence, you’re building a dash within a dash (queue inception).

The first two pictures are not mine, but they provide a good bird’s eye view of the areas you want to reinforce. I’ve inserted red arrows showing some of the areas you want to reinforce on the top of the dash. On the underside of the dash with the mounting tabs, it’s self explanatory.

The remaining pics are from my repair. The first group of pictures shows the condition of the dash when I got it. The tabs were broken off, there were holes in the back of the dash, etc. Obviously, before fiberglassing anything, you’ll need to attach the mounting tabs to the dash. I used super glue.  My go-to superglue is Loctite super glue “professional.” It’s the absolute strongest and quickest drying glue I’ve worked with. It’s awesome stuff, but it’s extremely strong, and very easy to accidentally glue your fingers, clothing, etc, so be careful.

Once the mounting tabs are in place and everything is dry, you can move on to the fiberglass. You’ll want to use coarse sandpaper to rough up the areas you intend to fiberglass. This promotes adhesion. I didn’t sand the mounting tabs though, as they were too delicate. As seen in the pics, in addition to fiberglassing the dash structure and around the mounting tabs, I fiberglassed the mounting tabs themselves. The fronts, the sides, and the bottoms. The result is an extremely strong tab that will outlast the car. However, once the resin sets you’ll have to sand down and smooth out the mounting tabs. A dremel with a sanding wheel attachment works well for this. You’ll have to drill a hole in each tab for where the bolt goes through since fiberglass now covers the hole. Once you’ve smoothed out the tabs, make sure you test-fit the screw brackets that slide on to the tabs. You want to make sure the brackets fit firmly and the screw holes of the brackets lines up with the holes of the mounting tabs.

Other areas you should reinforce include all of the mounting points between the dashboard and upper dash pad. I did not use fiberglass on these areas due to the shape of the mounting point, and also because I was concerned about adding too much thickness. If the reinforcement on the mounting point is too thick, you will end up with a gap between the dashboard and upper dash pad. You could use JB weld or other epoxy, but I used a product called plast-aid. Available on amazon. It’s the best plastic repair product I’ve tried – and I’ve tried many different products. I also used plast-aid to repair the upper dash plastic piece by the windshield – more on that below. Pics of the repair:

Now, this last part is optional. I tried to repair the upper plastic part of the dash that sits against the windshield. I used plast-aid, which worked awesome. It was a huge amount of work, and you have to be very careful because the plastic is so thin and delicate. Unfortunately, it ended up being a huge waste of time, but I’ll get to that in a bit. My goal was to repair all of the cracks and holes in the plastic and end up with a smooth part that looked new. I almost did it. You can see my progress in the pics. It was looking pretty good… Obviously, the first step is super gluing any pieces that cracked off

Now to the bad part :( . I sprayed the plastic piece with a coat of black SEM interior paint. For some reason, the repaired portions of the plastic stood out like a sore thumb. My next idea was to try and cover up these imperfections with some textured paint. So I sanded the area down, and sprayed the plastic with some rustoleum black textured paint. As soon as the paint hit the plastic, I heard loud cracks, looked down, and saw that some of the thinner cracking I had repaired was now re-cracked!!! I don’t know if there was a chemical reaction between the paint and plast-aid, or if the cold aerosol spray reacted with the plastic, or what, but the point is, it cracked. At that point, I was completely fed up with the repair, and decided to give up and simply use the extra dash cover trim plate I had purchased in a VS group buy a while ago. Maybe the result would have been different if I hand-painted the piece, but I guess we won’t know unless someone else tries it.

Thanks for looking. 

The black 850R's -- were they single stage paint or BC/CC?

I'm trying to determine how much of my quickly deteriorating paint is original...

thank you 

john 

Would the heat gun trick work on this piece of plastic?