Step 1. evacuate the system.
Step 2. put back the condenser.
Step 3. recharge the system. (I don't think I can do it myself. Will bring it to a mechanic shop.)

My questions are:
1. Since the condenser has been removed for about three weeks. Probabaly no need for step 1?
2. Since the condensor has been removed for a relatively long time (~ 3 weeks), do I need any special treatment for the system before/after putting back the condensor??
3. Should I worry about other parts of the AC? AC worked well before the accident and anything after the radiator looks untouched.?

Thanks a lot!

https://www.reddit.com/r/Volvo/comments/puy6tn/5g_update_required_soon_in_order_to_keep_remote/

Thank you all in advance for your support.

https://www.carvana.com/vehicle/1787613

In case the ad's gone by the time you see this, it's silver with 6 cyl 3L turbo, AWD, 6 speed Geartronic autobox.  VIN: YV4902DZ0C2318444

They're asking $20K

I need to put my 2017 Volvo S60 in storage for several months and wanted to jack it and put it on jack stands. The volvo manual is clear on front end placement but has nothing for the rear. Any thoughts on where to place the rear jack stands so as to not cause any damage?

Cheers

Turn right side piston back in, no issue.  Turn left side piston back in, brake fluid comes out of boot. Its definitely leaking now, so seal is bad.  Wasn't leaking before brake job.

My 1997 850 with 205,000 miles still has original calipers!!

Does this different design, instead of just pushing back pistons, cause failure more often?  I wonder if turning the piston can tear old seals.

I assume the only coolant left in the system was heater core.

Upon refilling, it only took 1 1/2 gallons of coolant mix.  Is this right?  I thought I read the cooling system was 3 gallons.  No way 1 1/2 gallons was left in heater core.  The car reached normal temp no problem, and ran fine.

?

Perhaps you can give me some help.

Have a 2011 Volvo C30 RDESIGN 6spd. I have a vibration, and wobble, and clicking on stop starts or turning. When i turn its just one click , nothing continuous. At speeds over 90kph, I get a wobble from the front left. Also under acceleration it feels like the something isn't correct in the front left. I would describe it as vibration or engine missing.

I have replaced both axles as i had a tear in the right boot, so replace both sides. 

I have put IPD stabilizer end links on . 

Checked balance of front left wheel as well.

Sometime when I am braking from speeds of 90kph plus, i get vibration through wheel, like a warped rotor. But other times its fine. Doesn't happen at lower speeds at all. 

Car idles great, smooth, great gas mileage, no knocks for contact sounds from engine bay. 

At a loss on what next. Could strut mount bushings and bearings be creating this issue?

Anything suggestions that would help , would be most appreciated.

Thank you

Gary

Can anybody tell me if there's an aftermarket replacement for a 2018 V60 Cross Country? Mine is causing "low charge" messages

Ricky

Could maybe use a bit of advice here... googling has not yielded the best results. I have a 2012 C70 displaying the convertible top service required message.. and of course, when driving, I am getting the annoying constant chime and the message to stop driving because the top might be damaged. I *think* I might have traced the issue down to the hydraulic pump motor.. I put power to it and the pump motor lazily spins then pops the fuse in my power probe. I reached out to Klaus at TopHydraulics and he kindly informed me that the motor should have no more than a 30 amp draw (going to test this soon). Also, the hydraulic reservoir is full of fluid and nothing seems to be leaking, but I need to find folks to help me lift the top to inspect the hydraulic cylinders... not an easy feat in rural Colorado's winter :)

All that being said, is there anyway for the time being while I perform diagnostics that I can disable this chime so that the car is still usable? I made 110% sure that the top is locked down. Any suggestions?

After my experience I feel like the TRW sourced rear pads don’t hold up. They are so bad in my opinion I have a hard time believing they are even TRW and wonder if these are actually Lucas since I believe TRW acquired Lucas. If that’s the case I’m not sure why Volvo would have sourced these but I think it would have to do with cost.

I used to get up to 70,000 miles out of our P2 rear brakes so I know it’s not us. Personally, I don’t buy that it’s due to EPB or increased rear brake bias because the fronts still get the most brake distribution.

I feel completely screwed because I don’t see any aftermarket alternative that I really feel comfortable with. I know people will throw all kinds of things out there but I need something high quality members have used for a long time and proven. When I say proven I mean original braking performance, smoothness, quiet with no noise but actually hold up in my opinion where I can get at least 30K from rear brakes. The problem I am having is everything is questionable. When I have tried even what were supposed to be quality aftermarket pads with my first Volvos many years ago they always seemed inferior and they always made noise.

It also seems like everything aftermarket is now ceramic.

My first instinct was ATE Pads but they appear to be ceramic. My concern is one website said ATE 602736 pads were discontinued and I found some on ebay but it makes me concerned there may have been some issue and even if they are great I may not be able to buy them for very long anyway so this option doesn’t look good.

My second instinct is TRW has what I think they are pushing as kind of a premium black series pad. I looked at the reviews of these pads used with other brand vehicles and the reviews seem good and say they are quiet with good brake performance which has me leaning toward these.

Textar was a brand I was considering but I believe that I read a forum post from a BMW owner that put these and Brembo rotors on the rear and said something I think like he kind of feels a delay before they grab unlike original brakes. This is something I cannot accept because I need something with original braking performance.

I have seen Pagid brake pads but personally I think they look like too hard of a pad where there may be noise or decreased braking performance in my opinion.

I am leaning toward the TRW Black TPC1307 Pads

Now for rotors I don’t know if the rotors with uneven wear rings, grooving and scoring I never seen before that you can see in my video are because Volvo is now using a really soft rotor material or just the pads being inferior in my opinion did this. Now I’m trying to decide if I should go with Volvo rotors or try aftermarket.

The only possibly decent aftermarket rear brake rotor I found seems to be Brembo 09958711. I would NOT go with Brembo aftermarket pads because I think I saw a review complaining about noise even when using with Brembo rotors. My only concern is that I remember when I tried Brembo rotors years ago with my first Volvos Brembo had started putting these stupid wear indicator dimples in the contact area even though none of the online photos showed these. I believe I called them to complain and think I ended up sending the rotors back.

Also, how low should you safely be able to wear your rear brake pads down to? Shouldn’t you be able to wear pads down to 2 or 3mm safely and as long as there is still some pad material left the rotors shouldn’t be grinding or scored? I know this sounds like a stupid question but I never experienced anything like this. 

Here is a video that shows the pads and rotors so you can see the wear

Here is my article I wrote about my new Volvo rear brake experience

I’m leaning toward the TRW Black TPC1307 rear pads with Volvo rotors and seeing what happens but it’s not a cheap experiment if the rotors are somehow part of the problem and wear like before so it’s kind of a tough one.

I would appreciate proven suggestions for P3 aftermarket rear brakes.

It happens every morning after a couple minutes of driving, almost a total loss of power. Like a limp home mode, but there is no warning message or warning light that turns on.

I can pull over, restart the engine, and it is immediately back to normal and does not happen again for the rest of the drive to work (45 minutes, suburban stop n go)

There is no check engine light, and no ECM faults flagged, at least that my code reader can see anyway.

This has been happening everyday for about a month now. 

But recently I found out, that Volvo upgraded to Aisin type WS after VIN 220000! Which my 2012 is.   Its in their VIDA software, but not the printed owners manuals. (Go figure) I also read that the WS is a thinner fluid, but is STILL not synthetic. 

So I decided to go with Redline D6 synthetic, which they claim will work for Aisin type WS.  I also figured how to disconnect the trans cooler line, so I actually did a three gallon flush.  I just don't trust a thin mineral-based ATF like Aisin WS running at temps of 85C (that's what VIDA says my trans is running at for normal driving)

i also added 6oz of auto rx to my previous 3309 fluid and ran for 4000 miles.    Couldn't believe how dirty the fluid looked when I pumped it out.  Now I have nice pink synthetic fluid.  Will flush again in 30,000 miles.  THIS is how you do lifetime fluid.

anybody else try redline D6?  Long term results?