https://vprintsus.etsy.com/listing/4387074970

Does anyone know what bolts are used to attach the AC compressor to the engine on a 1996 850? I know there are 4 bolt and two of then bolt into a bracket but I am having a hard time finding which ones they are. 

Thanks 

I appreciate any tips!
 

Like many people, I'm having problems with my bevel gear.
Machining new splines on the shaft in Europe seems complicated....The addresses I had have closed...
I found a site that sells new shafts, but not for my model!

  https://lbmautoparts.com/fi-fi/tasauspyörästöjen-osat/land-rover-range-rover/crown-wheel-pinion-land-rover-volvo-front-differential/62932

Do you have any addresses for this by any chance?

Do you know who made the bevel gears for the VOLVO AWD P80?

Yann

anyone knows their way around Volvo clutches, especially the differences in DMF?

I took my clutch apart as it was slipping. Took the time to search and order parts after I had it apart and did not want to rush, to make sure I can check part numbers and check my order once it arrives.

Did not help much, because all part catalogs, even searching by VIN and gearbox no. would list more than 1 possibility. And the original Volvo part numbers stamped on DMF (9176206-B), clutch (9176205-B)and PP (9176204-B) would not come up at all in catalogs nor Google.

Never the less, talking to more parts shop, we always ended up with 2 clutch sets - LUK 600021000 and 600021400. No one knew what the difference is besides the price... I bit the bullet and ordered the first one.

Just today after unpacking what came, I am confused and happy at the same time. All seemed fine, measurements align, the inner teeth count on the clutch plate are correct...But on the DMF the center (bore) is different. Left image what I have and right is what arrived.

Whole day googling resulted in:

• There seems to be only 1 DMF always listed aftermarket, there are no choices/differences available - LUK, Sachs...
• I have found on ebay and on a wreckers listings (looking at OEM Volvo used DMF) that up until around 2001/2002 all images show that thing in the middle, which looks like is pressed in, whereas anything above this year, has just a big opening in the center. That thing is not really spinning, so would most likely not be a bearing and when searching for plain bearings or pilot bearings on Volvo S70/V70, does seem to be it at all. So I am ruling this out.
• That thing does have a part no. on it (917401700), but googling resulted only in a whole DMF for a Ford Transit?!
• I was researching as well the LUK kits, if perhaps the DMF would be the difference in the kits and I ordered the wrong one, but after hours of searching I found a website that list the part numbers of the pack content and I was able to narrow it down that the clutch plate it self is different - 600021000 has 20 teeth and 600021400 has 23 teeth. Looking into this, it seems that again up until 2001/2002 models had the 20 spline shaft and higher had 23 splines. Which might be even due to M56 5 Speed and M66 6 Speed difference?! Simply totally f...ed up if catalogs, even upon VIN and Gearbox no. provide you the incorrect kit as a choice. I was lucky to had ordered at least the one with correct clutch plate.

Never the less, for me to conclude:

• Anyone knows what is the thing in the middle/its purpose?
• Do I need it or will I be fine mounting the new DMF without it? Maybe is a case of Ford thinking "let´s make more profit and from now on we do not need this part" and so did aftermarket?
• I will need to check the bores, and thinking of trying to press it out and pressing into the new one...not sure this will work though

I have not found any topic on any volvo forum regards something like this. Not sure if I am the only one being too cautious or previously there had been 2 different DMF choices and no one experienced this headache.

Thanks for any replies

EDIT: maybe is totally ok without it? - on the crankshaft is aligned via a pin and the 10 bolts would center it anyway, clutch plate is installed with a centering alignment tool, so I doubt this serves such purpose. It would not be a bearing for the shaft either, because the clutch plate interferes into that hole and the DMF makes no contact with the shaft. So I can´t even think of what it could do, others than maybe some noise/vibration canceling device.

1996 Volvo 850 Turbo wagon
VIN: YV1LW5720T2247599
Engine Type: 57 - 2.3L 5 cylinder
Front wheel drive
Mileage: 205 K

Pulled this info from a code reader:

Code P0137 - O2 Sensor - Circuit Low Voltage
Bank 1 Sensor 2

Code P0131 - O2 Sensor - Circuit Low Voltage
Bank 1 Sensor 1

Freeze frame from code reader I pulled the next day. Not sure what all this means if anything:
DTCFRZF P0131
Fuel System 1 OL
Fuel System 2 N/A
Load_Percentage 2.0
ECT °C 82
SHRTFT  1 (%)
Long FT 1 (%) 0.0
RPM (1 min) 800
VSS (Km/h  18

Long term symptoms:
I seem to be getting the CEL after driving around 100-120 miles mostly on trips but eventually when I reach this milestone to set the codes .  Most of the milage is highway driving 55-65 mph. Sometimes comes on when reducing speed going through small towns or slowing for stop signs or variations of speed on highway. Also will hit the CEL after driving about that mileage over time with variation of mostly highway and in town driving.

I need some info on how to attack this. Is it O2 sensors; relays; electronics going to injectors; fuel pump; fuel pump rag filter; computer or some other malfunction? Can't keep throwing money at it to find a solution without an educated guess on where the problem/s are.

Here is what I have done so far:
1. New plug wires and plugs
2. New distributor cap and rotor
3. New Bosch upstream O2 sensor
4. Cleaned all injectors - Pulled out of fuel rail. Made tool to spray carb cleaner through injectors when injector is opened with elecrical charge. All injectors worked good when sprayed carb cleaner through them as supposed to do.
5. New injector o-rings top and bottom. Did not replace fuel rail o-rings for injectors or seals on intake manifold. All seemed fine.
6. Brand new inline Gas Filter
7. Brand new Air Filter
8. Not sure of the cat but no exhaust leaks or problems that I can determine.

I am at a loss as to where to go with this. Why would it take so long to trip the codes?

Engine runs great and turbo working as it should. Getting 24-25 mpg on mostly highway driving.

Anyone? Let me know if you need more info on something.

Thanks for your help in advance,
Clark

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

odometer out. Speedometer out.

blinking WSE lights.

help.

94’ 960 wagon.

This was recorded when the ambient temp was around 65 F. When it's cold outside, the noise is really loud. I tried to pinpoint the noise with the statoscope, but I did not hear it close to any pulleys (including the crankshaft pulley). It almost sounds like coming from deep inside the engine. I will record it with temp around 45F in the future. Noise disappears after a few minutes, although it's replaced by another type of noise, the chirping type: check out this link:

. I guess it's coming from the harmonic balancer/crankshaft pulley area. It's not as loud, just a rhythmic chirping sound. Again I tried to pinpoint it with a stethoscope, and I could not pinpoint it to any particular pulley. Based on the phone recording, I would guess it's a crankshaft pulley. What do you think? The timing belt was changed in 8/2019 around 140 000 miles. Now it's around 162 000. I have a code P0442 which is Evaporative Emission System Leak Detected (small leak) - it's been there for the last year or so... The noises are a recent thing...
Anyway, if anyone ever heard such a noise, please let me know...  

Video 1

Video 2

1998 S70 NA 5-Spd

Head gasket just replaced, head tested and shaved.

The problem is intermittent and I can’t find a pattern.  I started it up this morning, 41f/5c outside, started perfectly runs perfectly.  Went out at lunch, 71f/22c, that when the video was taken.  It will also happen when it's cold, sometimes hot, sometimes after just running it.  

Parts replaced:  Cam sensor, Crank sensor, coil, timing belt, rear O2 (not that it matters), .

Tested:  MAF (get CEL when unplugged), input to coil, fuel pressure, IAC buzzes at key turn, TPS, probably more, but I forget.

When it’s having the starting issue, the starter will sometimes NOT stay engaged, but pull itself back in, as if it thinks it’s started but hasn’t.

In the first video.  It “starts” but it runs like crap.  My foot was giving it half throttle, and it wouldn’t rev above 2,500, rough and sounding like absolute crap.

When I went to the engine, I was actuating the throttle cable by hand about a quarter turn.

Second video, you can hear the engine stop turning while starting as if it were flooded.  But is it possible for the injectors to flood it that much in a short time?  Also, I’ve tested fuel pressure while it was acting up and it was normal.  Were it dumping fuel in, I would have thought the pressure would have gone down.  I am turning it off between starts, it's not shutting down on its own.

It feels like the timing is wrong.  But that can’t be the case, since it can run perfectly fine, and all timing is ECU controlled.  On the “can run fine”, when it starts normally it will idle, run, and pull normally.  No hesitation, no hiccups, it’s smooth as anything, it will pull strong all the way to 5,500 (I stop after that).

On top of all that, NO CEL!

I am at a loss on this.

Haven't posted in a long time... here goes...

I have a 1998 V70R which I've fitted a S60R 2.5 engine into. Engine came out of my S60R with 80k and ran good. Have kept the M56 box. Fitted most of the V70R components over (22T turbo, VXR injectors, 3" intake with new PCV system, 3" downpipe (new cat or exhaust fitted atm), Do88 intercooler, V70R throttle body, standard TCV. M4.4 ECU, MAF is 3.5" from a BMW, most of the pipework has been upgraded. All vac lines are silicone, new clutch, flywheel etc).

Engine has been converted to Coil over plug using S60R bits and a custom map/ecu wiring.
Have completed a VVT delete on both cams. Belts replaced and timing set 2.3' exh anticlockwise and the inlet 6.2' clockwise.
O2 is being measured by a AEM AFR wideband.

FPR is currently a 3bar unit, was originally 3.4bar to try different things. I'm seeing 3bar at the rail with no massive drop over time.

New battery and have confirmed injectors, ICV, CAM, Crank, MAF are all working fine.

The car is a pig to start. Running real rich and only real way of starting is to keep blipping the throttle to WOT. Vacuum is only -9psi negative at idle. Glove test inflates massively when idling.

Trying to tune the car I'm jumping between 12AFR Rich and 20 AFR Idle. The radiator fan is making the car run real rich and then lean, often stalling the car.

Car battery is brand new with healthy voltage / alternator working. at @~14.1volts

RPM is around 700-800rpm.

My cold compression tests are

Cylinder 1 2 3 4 5
Cold 102 99 82 100 109
with oil 175 208 185 200 200 (I might of been a bit keen with oil in some of the cylinders!)

I haven't tried a compression check hot yet. It's hard enough to start although once running and warm it does fine and tries to hunt for ~14AFR. Short term fuel is jumping -/+ 25.00. Will easily restart warm.

Checking the new plugs (volvo genuine, correct long size) they're wet. Spark to all is strong and injectors are pulsing good with good flow with cup test.

The only thing left in my mind is the timing is out. I can't believe its rings as the engine ran good power and had no issues before it was moved into car. I've cross checked all the normal bits above with a friend's car that is running fine and the same setup (although he has a K turbo). Installing vice versa and my parts run fine on his inc coils, rail, injectors, maf, etc.

I've tried running my friends ECU and loaded his turbotuner map - still won't run good.

We're not even out of the garage yet - so no on-road driving! Anything else I'm missing or not thinking about? So hacked with it now!

As you can see the drivers side fender and turn signal will need replacing. And I’m going pull the bumper cover (because the grandpa who previously owned this car drove by feel and then rollered on - I’m not kidding - the matching 601 Signal Red paint). So the bumper was a mess before and worth replacing.

But what about this radiator support? Cracked on the bottom drivers side but looks like it could easily be JB Welded back on. Is it worth the pain of pulling the entire front end off - several hours in the junkyard and at home - in order to replace this? Or is the consensus that the support point which just bolts to the fender is largely for supporting the fender? Last image below just to show the component involved in all its glory - not mine.

I get it takes some of the impact in the result of a collision and did it’s job but am trying to weight the costs/benefit of the effort. 

haven't had a serious issue in a while, but I need a little help/advice now.

The CEL turned on, I checked and the code was Atmospheric pressure sensor signal EFI-422. Bought a new sensor (not original though), replaced it but the code comes back immediately.

I found a lot of threads detailing the troubleshooting process for this error code if the sensor itself seems to be ok (namely check the AC pressure sensor, acceleration sensor and fuel tank pressure sensor). But to start with I would like to check the atmospheric pressure sensor itself. While the car is running it measures 5V on pin 3 (which is correct, I believe – reference voltage), ground on pin 2 (which is also correct I think) and it measures 0,4V on pin 1. Does anyone know what voltage this sensor should measure on pin 1 normally?

I’m at an altitude of approximately 250 m above sea level. I believe this pin 1 is used for “informing” the ECU of the air pressure by differences in voltage (resistance). It’s just my guess though.

I also don’t have a wiring diagram – the one I have (Haynes) does not show this sensor at all. An anyone help me with that?

Regards

Jernej

Long story short, when I pulled the panel this piece fell out. It has the green glue on the back, same as each of the black supports that hold the pressure connectors, several of which I had to reglue to the panel. So it must have been glued on, but there are only 2 evident possible locations and unsure of orientation.

First 2 photos are the piece, last 2 are the locations where there’s green glue remnants. My guess is it goes in the 4th photo. I have pulled door panels previously and never encountered this. Is it just a stray piece that dropped in during assembly in the factory?

He had done quite a bit on the west coast, and went to Las Vegas for the next leg. She felt poorly one morning two weeks ago, he took her to the hospital, and she went downhill pretty rapidly. He has posted several vids on his YouTube channel, and there is a gofundme account to help with the large expense of bringing Dianne home to Cincinnati for the last time.

I used PayPal to send a 'gift' instead, there isn't a fee structure like there is on gofund.

1. This thing has burned/leaked oil since I bought it, and I noticed some wet oil on the corner of the block near the passenger cv axle (I think that's what it's called...) and on the cv axle boot. What could be causing this oil leak, bad seal or gasket somewhere? And should I replace the boot since it's soaked in oil?

2. should there be something inside the rear spring? like a shock or something? What's the rubber looking thing that's just floating around in there?

Thank you in advance for your assistance with this!

Little bit of contextual prefacing:

I drive an S70. Recently replaced the radiator, starter, and had to rebuild the engine, all about two months ago. Has been running reliably and sounding normal since. 

The last week or so has been much more humid than usual as it's been storming mildly frequently. Because of this, I didn't think much of finding my windows entirely covered in fog upon entry yesterday (standard condensation).

The issue arose when I tried to make a 5 minute drive. Normally full heat would remove the condensation, but only seemed to make it worse. 

this morning is when I really started noticing an issue. Very little weather occurrences overnight, no reason for condensation, but the same fog issue. Driving to work in stop and go traffic prompted a white smoke to come out the cabin air vents, and the continued recondensation of the windows. Vehicle gets incredibly humid after very little time, especially with the air fans on. 

still sounds normal and operates as it should. Only issue I'm finding is the cabin vents. 

was looking into it and all I found was a potential need to replace the heater core, buy I'm wondering if anyone else may have some ideas? I've never had this happen before and a bypass isn't an option because winter 😕

thanks again for your help! I hope you have a great rest of your day

My pcv system has needed to be done for a long time and I did'nt realize. I was trying to diagnose issues with drivability and stuttering on takeoff or idle. Also wondering where my oil has been going when there are no apparent leaks. Well, I watched more RobertDIY and he talked about how the oil could shoot out of the dipstick to the under hood of the car. I looked and there is indeed oil shot all over the under of my hood. I don't think i blew any seals yet. I ordered a Pcv replacement kit and am going to attempt it. Terrified, New jobs riding on this. I have the RobertDIY video and have studied it. Only job i have done was replace my fuel filter myself and a fender replacement.

Dash says TEMP or DISC where the time is displayed. I think it means the temp gauge is disconnected but I cant find it.

Popping new codes as well P0116.  Coolaint temp sensor Looks doable but has to wait. Priority is PCV

P0442 - small leak in evap system

Secondary air pump inoperative - smog device

misfire - cylinder 1 (i think)

Running too rich - due to inoperative secondary air pump i believe.

coolaint tank leak somewhere - needs new tank

Used cars have gone up in price a lot since i paid $1000 for this car a year or so ago. I have grown to really love my Blue coup and have yet to give up on it. Any advice or help in any way is going to help calm me in my attempts. I don't know much about any of this but have actively learned as im going.