I have a 1991 240 wagon that has a bad front right ABS caliber. I have searched everywhere and now know that the chance of finding a rebuilt 240 ABS caliber is next to none. There are European after-market ones for over $230.00 dollars, but my concern is what if my other 3 ABS calipers need replaced.

Rather than continuing the hunt for re-manufactured or the super high prices of European aftermarket 240 ABS calipers, I would like to simply delete the ABS system all together and keep my beloved 240 on the road as a non-ABS.

Can anyone please provide a step-by-step instruction on how to delete the 240 ABS system or even better a video of how to do it. If so, will I be able to use my other ABS calipers that are fine when I delete the ABS and replace the bad caliper?

Thanks

My first question is this, Do I need to replace the steel timing gear if it doesn't have any play or apparent damage to it? I plan on replacing it anyway, but just wondering if it is necessary, engine only has about 40K miles on it. Second question is this, after cleaning the fiber gear debris out of the timing gear cover area do I need to drop the oil pan to clean out anything inside of there? If you have had this happen to you before how much if any fiber particles were in there? Can I just change the oil a couple of times back to back to hopefully get any particles from the oil pan? Or do I have to drop the oil pan and clean it out? If I have to drop the oil pan, can I do this with engine in the car somehow or do I have to pull the engine out? 

I have a maxxecu pro and will make a conversion harness to stock ECU connector and trans controller connector. Can anyone provide me with a complete pinout?

I just bought S90 98. and it has broken front spring.

I know rear is not so easy to lower but hows front springs?

Does 940 front springs useble or i need 960/S/V90 front springs and cut them?

Thanks

any pics very welcome before I remove the box and look

I am building a 1946 Volvo with modern engine etc.

For that I have pulled engine + transmission + the complete electric system out of a 1991 Volvo 960 with B6304 and Motronic 1.8. My intention is to keep everything electric as stock as possible, but because of physical factors (design and/or space) there are some things that I do not have any choice but to change.

First, I have another radiator/condenser/oil cooler/fan configuration, but this is not a problem if I make sure to have the same functions when it comes to switches&senders.

But there may be some issues with the other things I need to change. Those are:
1) I cannot use original cruise control switch, so I must make something with old school pull/push/toggle switches.
2) Same for wiper/washer switch, so - "" -
3) Original AC/heating system (960 had automatic ECC) is too big, so I think I must buy some other primitive/standalone system, either a used one or more probably new from VintageAir. I can use original AC compressor and maybe some lines, that's it.

Since I understand that the ECU is connected with both cruise and heating/AC, I now must figure out how to unplug/change those without confusing ECU functionality, getting error codes etc.

I actually do have some ideas on this, but I need help to make sure. 

Therefore I am looking for help with three things:
First: good wiring diagrams for these systems.
Second: help in interpreting the function of signals/wires from those systems TO/FROM the ECU.
Third: any of those signals/wires TO/FROM the ECU that carry variations in voltage - that is, anything else than plain 12V+/GND open/closed? 

Anybody that can help me?

Thanks in advance!

/Mattias in Sweden
 

I found an all original mint 79 242 with a manual transmission and 99k miles. The seller has no attachment to the car and is not an enthusiast. I have been told to make an offer. I am wondering what these are worth in our community? I know what the usually going price is to the average joe. I'm a p80 guy and have limited knowledhe of the RWD platforms. But would like to make a fair offer somewhere between what it is worth and what an enthusiast values it. Any help is appreciated.

Next fear was head gasket leak because it came from above the water pump, but there's no water mixed in engine oil.  The coolant was coming from the head gasket area when looking from below the car.

Finally after removing some parts, timing belt, timing cover, ran a pressure test on the block when engine was cold revealed it was the heater hose gasket coming out of Cylinder #1.  This $5 gasket was impossible to locate until you take many components off.

See the photo from a similar engine. The vertical hose on the far end was the culprit. Thick hose in the middle goes to the water pump.  You can see how this leak could lead you to believe it's a head gasket leak.

Finally, Robert at www.RobertSpinner.com suggested that I make sure it's running 10w-30 oil, use MANN oil filter, run 92+octane gas.   Thanks Robert!

I did did all that Robert recommended, plus serviced the PCV and changed a few aging vacuum lines. Now the engine is purring silently like new at 123,000 miles.

Also, the PCV parts, I noticed some volvo dealers are selling 1993 960 for less than $40 online. Looking at the diagram it appears to be the same for the S90 at a much lower price. I wished I knew before buying the parts.

1) remove the power steering reservoir will give you more space to reach the left two bolts to take the manifold off.
    the power steering reservoir 3x 12mm bolts are behind the round pulley, there are access holes on the pulley but you also need to take the serpentine belt off.

2) you may need to remove the thermostat housing too. (2 T-40) 

3) open the blue cap at the end of the fuel rail, press the valve to lower fuel pressure. Gas will spill out so put a towel there.

4) remove the throttle cable assembly (two pieces) 5x 10mm bolts.

5) now you have room to take the fuel rail aluminum cover off, and gently pull on the fuel injectors to remove the fuel rain completely.  disconnect any cables and vacuum
    hoses that get in the way. take photos so you remember how to put it back together.

6) remove the air filter box cover, remove the air intake snorkel, and the big plastic elbow connecting the throttle body.  Lots of wires and vacuum hoses to disconnect.  take photos before you pull that apart.

7) now begin to remove a bunch of 10mm bolts holding the intake manifold to the block. they're on top, bottom, and one 13mm NUT  at the very bottom that's very difficult to get to by touch only.  Some of those 10mm bolts are hidden, so take a flash light and look! when they are all removed the manifold will move and you can pull it out.

8) Once the intake manifold is out you can see your intake valves, look for any gunk built up on top of the valves and clean gently as necessary.

9) unbolt 10mm from the PCV breather box. along with connecting vacuum hoses.  Check the vacuum tree, it has 6 ports, only one is unused with a cap. My vacuum cap was cracked with holes probably causing a vacuum leak.  Check and replace the vacuum cap and any replace any old vacuum hoses. They're cheap and local autopart store carry them.

10) Most difficult was getting some of those 10mm bolts off the manifold, and that 13mm nut way at the bottom. There are also some space issues moving everything out of the way to get to the PCV.  Give yourself a good 5 hours because those 10mm and the 13mm can ruin your day.

As many of you know, FCP Euro doesn’t do sales very often so I am very excited to announce that we are offering up to 30% off everything on our website during our cyber week sale.  We will also be offering some flash sales every two hours starting at 9am on Saturday morning featuring even more savings.  Be sure to follow us on Facebook and @fcpeuro on Instagram and Twitter because that's how we will be announcing the sales.  

For those of you who haven’t shopped with FCP Euro before, we offer only OEM & Genuine replacement parts for European cars.  Every part you buy from FCP Euro is backed by an industry-leading comprehensive, lifetime parts warranty - including wear and tear items like wiper blades or brake pads. Additionally, you will receive world class customer service with a 365-day return policy and free shipping on all orders over $49. 

SHOP FCP EURO NOW!

Thank you for the support and if you have any questions please email me at jasonv1@fcpeuro.com and I will do my best to get back in touch with you as soon as possible.

Thank you again for your support!

Sincerely, 
Jason

TDC was checked with dowel and as seen in pics, cam pulley notch lines up with cam cover notch, aux gear (oil pump/distributer gear) is lined up with belt mark (no pic) and crank pulley notch lines up with block mark.  Remanufactured distro's rotor is just before #1 plug wire.

However, when cranking, only a slight "huff huff huff" is heard.  Although admittedly not at idle speed when cranking, the timing light shows #1 firing about an inch before the top lower belt, or approx. 135 degrees retarded.

"Dammit Jim, I'm not a mechanic, I'm an audio engineer!"  I've gone as far as logic, Chilton, the green books and Bentley can take me.  I'm hoping the deep experience on this forum can help with suggestions.

Back story:  Car ran great for six years through upper midwest extremes.  Choked to a stop one morning.  Towed to a "performance shop" that had worked on the car before.  They said gunk in the tank had clogged the in-tank pump sock and the pump had burned out and taken the pump relay with it.  Replaced pump with new pump & sock from IPD + relay.  Shop then said it needed a new aux air valve.  Replaced that and it would start, but it would die under load.  They told me it was a bad engine design and they were done it.  I managed to get it home by revving it in low and doing two blocks at a time.  The main pump was complaining loudly, so I replaced that, but no joy and low (18/38 psi) control & line pressures.

Thinking the problem must be downstream, I replaced the fuel filter, blew out the lines, had the WUR and fuel dist re-built, etc. etc.  In the end, it turned out the in-tank pump from IPD had impressive flow, but not sufficient psi for the main pump.  Installed new in-tank pump = all fuel pressure specs good.  Oddly, now it wouldn't start at all.  I wanted to make sure the timing was correct, so I replaced the timing belt and tensioner, distro, cap/rotor and coil.  Nope.  Also swapped an ICU from a salvage pull.  No change.

Any suggestions or ideas would be most appreciated!

Note: the 1979 244 DL doesn't have a MAF, crank sensor, throttle switch, Hall sensor or IAC.  The engine is a B21F-5 with K-Jetronic.

I have a 97 s90 top overhauled about 2yrs ago but didnt start the engine or did a trouble shooting. Now i moved to other place and had it towed over so i can drive around but issue is wont start.

At the moment im at the area where simple compression tester is not available from autoparts store. I checked fuel, seems ok. About spark i have No clue, compression of motor i have no clue, cable wires were corroded so i replaced them with 2g wires. Most wirings are falling apart, corroded, hardened up from deadly heat and age. Camshaft sensor plug fell apart and i need color combination to a plug until i order a new one from overseaa. Basically i need to get it working first before i order. Is it possible faulty sensors could cause no start? Sparkplugs does work but i cant tell they r strong or not. Any special ground connection area where i can look into? Last night i checked temperature sensor and plug also fell apart so i changed inner plug to female and taped up. Wire was also corroded. Sparkplugs are new but noticed gasoline on the plug so i cleaned them up. Battery is fullycharged, battery cable is replaced to new, changed plugs with female connector for now to work. What am  i missing out to check.  Plz help.