1990 Volvo 240 Dl Wagon

[Guest Guest_nick_*]

this car is a gem.

the engine is awesome.

but about a month ago, i was driving down the road, and it just shut off. then i pulled over, started it right back up, and kept driving down the road.

about 2 days ago, I turned the key once in my driveway, and nothing (as if i wasn't in park, but i was) then turned it again, and it worked fine.

now...i just turn the key and nothing, no click, no turn of the engine...nothing. seems electrical, or maybe a starter. once again...the car is in park

what should I do?

[Three Fat Tigers]

List of suspects include:

Neutral safety switch

Starter solenoid

Battery cables

Ignition switch

Step 1) Three Quick Tests:

→While holding the ignition key in the start position, move the gear selector back and forth from park to neutral (maybe also wiggle the key in the switch at the same time).

↑starter responds while moving the shifter: you can assume the issue is a flaky/failing neutral safety switch.

↑starter responds while wiggling the key: you can assume the issue is a flaky/failing ignition switch.

↑starter doesn't respond: could still be anything, continue on with testing↓

→Another quick test is to tap the starter solenoid while someone holds the key in the start position.

Either strike it directly with something or maybe take a stick (plunger handle, break-over, et cetera) and place this on the starter solenoid (avoid the power terminals if stick is make of metal), then strike the stick with something.

↑starter responds: odds are the solenoid is going bad.

↑starter doesn't respond: could still be anything, continue on with testing↓

→Verify your battery cables: Hand held multi-meter, one lead on the center of the negative battery post, the other lead touch to good ground points on the body, engine, and alternator. Any reading of .1 volts or higher is a significant contact or cable issue that needs attention. For example my '92 240 reads .000 at all three points with ignition off, and .062 when running, .091 at the alternator. I stress the word "center" above as that will take into account the contact made between the battery cable terminal and the battery post, also turn something on like the parking lights. You can check the positive cable the same way, between the center of the positive battery post and the starter, large red wire at the alternator, and the power junction box located on the left inner fender next to the battery.

Still another quick test you could try would be to take a screwdriver and jumper the small blade push-on terminal on the back of the solenoid to the battery cable terminal, you should get some sparks and an immediate response from the starter. Obviously: don't get run over by the car.

Step 2)

→Next locate the STT (starter test terminal), it's a pink wire with shielded single female blade push-on connector, located behind the dipstick tube on the firewall:

This terminal is connected to the ignition switch and is "up-stream" of the neutral safety switch.

→Use a section of wire to momentarily connect the STT to the battery positive terminal, a length of wire, 18 gauge wire will suffice, with one male and one female blade push-on crimps (un-shielded type works best). Normally you should get a very immediate response from the starter (shifter in park/neutral).

↑starter responds at this point: odds are very high that the ignition switch is defective and is the sole problem.

↑starter doesn't respond, and assuming you verified your battery cables as mentioned above: neutral safety switch, or the starter solenoid are suspect, continue with Step3 testing↓.

Step 3)

→Connect the STT to the starter solenoid (terminal #50, blue-green wire), again use a length of 18 gauge wire with one male and one female blade push on crimp on the ends. Turn the ignition switch to the start position:

↑starter responds: the fault is most likely a bad neutral safety switch, and you can leave it wired this way until you have the parts/time to fix it properly.

↑starter doesn't respond: continue with Step4 Testing↓

Step 4)

→Disconnect the test wire from the STT terminal and momentarily touch it to the positive battery terminal: you should get an immediate response from the starter.

↑starter responds at this point: odds are very high that the ignition switch is defective and is the sole problem.

↑starter doesn't respond, and assuming you verified your battery cables as mentioned above: the starter solenoid is most likely bad.

For replacement Parts:

Starter: Basically all starters for 1976 and newer RWD cars with 4 cylinder engines are interchangeable. So that includes the 740/940. I would buy a used or reman. starter rather than just a solenoid as the solenoid alone can cost about the same if not more than a complete reman. starter. Can't recall off the top of my head what year Volvo switched from the large field wound type starter to the smaller better permanent magnet type, but you prolly want an '89+ if going with used; IINM all remans. will already be the newer type.

NSS: On the neutral safety switch, replacement requires you to remove the shifter assembly, pretty easy to pull out, one 13mm nut under the car, 4 10mm bolt inside and some electrical connectors, one of which is under the car. It can be easier/simpler/cheaper to just go buy another used shifter assembly and drop it in.

Ignition switch: the electrical part is easy to change out but can be very pricey new (around 80$ delivered). I would consider used. I've confirmed that the '90+ cars use a different switch than the earlier 240s, so you want one with the part #9447805. This same switch is used in all 940s, and I believe the '90+ 740s. Just unplug it, then it's just held in by two small slotted screws. Easy to pull from 700/900s after the instrument panel is removed. If you are interested, I may have a spare one here that I'd let go for 29$ plus shipping, has 71k miles on it, out of an '94 944T.