Front Mount Intercooler: The Write Up

[Oreo931]

In lieu of the recent discussion about a write up forum, I decided to make this. I am hoping it will be easier to read and follow than my showroom thread, and hopefully it can help more people. I am also hoping that those that have used my showroom thread, or other people's threads will contribute to this and post the ways that they did things, if differently. Also, since my current mounting solution is ghetto and not up to SOME people's () standards, I would appreciate if those who have mounted your intercoolers properly (like Edwin *psychobeano*) would post pictures/instructions of that too.

This write up should only be followed if you have some idea what you are doing.

Tools needed:

-Socket wrench

-Socket wrench extensions (helpful for hard to reach clamps)

-11mm socket, 12mm socket (depends which t-bolt clamps you use, I had different types so I needed both sizes).

-Hacksaw/reciprocating saw/sawzall for cutting metal piping

-Flash light (helpful)

-Flathead screwdriver (for tightening worm clamps if you are using them)

This is what I ordered:

-CXRacing FMIC kit

-Intercooler size is 27X6X2.5. The core is 21X6X2.5. There is no specific part number.

-Piping size is 2.25". You can go with 2.5" but it will be a TIGHT TIGHT fit, it will most likely take some cutting, and many people who have done this do not want to deal with the trouble.

-The kit comes with 16 t-bolt clamps. I cant remember how many I used, but I do not believe you need any extra, I will have to check when I get home.

This is the specific piping I used, I did have leftover piping from the kit, but the following is what I USED:

-Two (2) straight pipes

-One (1) 90 degree pipe

-One (1) 45 degree pipe

-Three (3) J pipes *NOTE* The intercooler kit only comes with two J pipes, so you will have to order an extra one.

Specific couplers used:

-Two (2) straight couplers

-Two (2) 2.5"->2.25" straight couplers/reducer

-One (1) 45 degree coupler

-Three (3) 90 degree couplers *NOTE* The intercooler kit only comes with two 90 degree couplers, so you will have to order an extra one.

I purchased it on ebay. Since ebay auctions only last so long, I will link you to the CXRacing ebay store. If you cant find the specific kit, you can email them and they will set you up. They are very helpful and fast to communicate in my experience.

Link: http://stores.ebay.com/CXRacing

Before you start, remove all of your stock piping/hoses EXCEPT for the turbo coupler/hose and the throttle body coupler/hose.

Hot side instructions:

-Everything is very straight forward as it is just a matter of routing the piping and clamping everything together.

You will need the following for the hot side:

-One 90 degree pipe

-One 45 degree pipe

-One straight pipe

-One J pipe

-Two straight couplers

-One 45 degree coupler

-One 90 degree coupler

-One reducer coupler

Before you begin, you should cut the J pipe. This is optional, but it is advised for a cleaner install. Doing this allowed me to go around the a/c receiver/drier instead of under it, which allowed for nothing to be hanging down and a better looking final product. The cut should be made right at the middle of the curve at the bottom of the J pipe. To try to explain this better, imagine that the J pipe is really a U shape. You want to cut the U shape directly in half.

You are now ready to bolt everything on.

This is the order that things go, starting with the turbo(you will obviously need two t bolt clamps at every connection):

90 degree pipe ---> straight coupler ---45 degree pipe --->45 degree coupler--->straight pipe.....90 degree coupler--->cut J pipe---> straight coupler--->cut J pipe--->reducer coupler ---> intercooler

Pics:

Cold side instructions:

-Everything is very straight forward as it is just a matter of routing the piping and clamping everything together.

You will need the following for the cold side:

-One straight pipe

-Two J pipes

-Two 90 degree couplers

-One reducer coupler

Before you begin you should cut the J pipe. For the cold side it is necessary. This cut will be different than the cut for the hot side, and you will only be using half the pipe. I don't know of a measurement for where you need to cut the J pipe, you are just going to have to eyeball it, and use my pictures as a reference. The cut should be made at the lower part of the J, but closer to the longer side of the pipe. If the J at the end of the pipe is too long, the hood will hit against the pipe, if it is too short it will not work. So if you are guessing, you should probably start cutting it so there is more J than less J, if that makes any sense .

You are now ready to bolt everything on.

This is the order that things go, starting with the throttle body (you will obviously need two t bolt clamps at every connection):

Cut J pipe--->90 degree coupler--->straight pipe--->90 degree coupler---->J pipe---->reducer coupler--->intercooler

*NOTE* In the pictures below you will see that I have a pipe with a blowoff valve on it. This is where your cut J pipe will go. I used my blowoff valve piping instead so I wouldn't have to have it re-welded.

Pics:

Mounting the intercooler:

I did this last. Partly because I wanted to be able to position the piping and the intercooler how I wanted after everything was set, and partly because I didn't really know how I was going to mount it. There is not really a sense in taking pictures of this. I used a combination of long zip ties, and heavy duty metal wire. I wrapped it around the intercooler connections (the metal part) and also around a couple pipes. Basically, anything that was secure under the car is what I wrapped zip ties and wire around. Was it ghetto? Yeah. Could you tell from outside the car? No.

The intercooler was for sure secured tight, I could pull on it very hard and it wouldnt budge. I just don't think it should be a permanent solution. This is where I am hoping others can give their input on how they mounted their intercoolers.

Ending notes.

-If you havent already noticed, you will need to use some of the stock components. The stock components being the coupler/hose on the turbo and the coupler/hose on the throttle body.

-I do not know the torque values on the t bolt clamps. I torqued them to "tight."

Driving impressions:

It definitely pulls harder. I noticed more low end torque and louder turbo. My EBC is set to 17psi, but with the front mount I am hitting and holding 18psi strong. Definitely worth the money, and I cant wait to see how it does this summer. I havent blown a single pipe off yet either, the tbolt clamps are holding really well.

Forgot to add the best part!

Total cost: $188, including shipping

[PsychoBeano]

And here is how I mounted mine, maybe not the best way, but relatively easy to do and no fabricating of brackets is a plus.

On the cross beam (where the bumper bolts on to) is this edge that comes out and then folds down. I just used some vice grips to bend the edge up so it is flat and then I drilled holes on this edge so I could bolt it on. Then, since the bolts that came with the FMIC were too short, I just bought some longer ones (I just took the originals to a hardware store and asked if I could get some that were a bit longer) and used spacers (hardware store as well) to get the FMIC to be perfectly in that middle gap in the bumper. It is only held on by these two bolts but so far its been good.

Pics (these dont show the spacers):

With the spacers in, you just want to get it so it doesnt hit the bottom of the metal slam panel of the bumper. If you compare the pictures you should be able to see that the actual FMIC was lowered about 1/2" to 1" so it would sit perfectly in that gap.

Hope this helps.

And I actually did elongate the holes a bit to get it (mostly) dead center as in the first pics it looks like it is too far right.

Lets move this to the Write Up/FAQ Forum

[Oreo931]

Did you cut your tow hook Edwin? I wanted to keep mine...

[PsychoBeano]

Yeah, the new bumper was on its way to my house already and from what it looked like the c70 bumper wasnt going to play nice with the FMIC piping. I had access to a reciprocating saw at the time and I didnt want to chance that I would have to cut it later on. I dont need it anyways, lol.

[BlackT5]

What are you guys doing on the TB side to make it come up so high?

You should try doing more welding and less couplers, but if you're on a budget..

[PsychoBeano]

It would be easier to keep the tow hook if the bungs on the FMIC were cut off and rewelded more towards the front of the intercooler so the intercooler sat a little more recessed into the bumper and gave the piping more of a chance. This would probably eliminate the need for spacers as well as the only reason they were needed was because the front edge of the Front mount was hitting the plastic bumper cover.

[PsychoBeano]

The only reason it comes up so high is because of the pipe with the BOV welded in to it. I need to have it there because my CBV is blocked off and I didnt want to get it welded again. That will get taken care of when I get a new one. It will be replaced by a shorter pipe and the BOV will get welded on to the 45 degree pipe that goes atop the engine. Definitely will be welded when I get around to it.

[Oreo931]

What are you guys doing on the TB side to make it come up so high?

You should try doing more welding and less couplers, but if you're on a budget..

I agree with you 100%. I do not know anyone local who welds though, and I was on a budget.

[Zulu]

I've a real nice way of mounting, unfortunately my camera was stolen so no pics for awhile. Looks good Adam, this is hands down one of, if not THE best performance mod for our cars...recommend using a higher quality intercooler though (spearco, greddy, bell, precision).

[Livvakt]

Once all my parts get in, I'll do a little write-up on installing a big core intercooler :)

[Auburn T5]

that's an odd angle the cold side takes going into the TB Whatever works I suppose. I just went straight down with mine.

[irf]

brilliant thread, i've been doing a lot of searches regarding front mounts recently and it's something i'm definetly considering.

the only thing thats bothering me though is wether an intercooler thats 27" x 7" or whatever is actually better then the OEM?

i'm not criticising anyone or anything, i am genuinely interested.

obviously the oem intercooler has a greater surface area but is covered by the air con condenser. the cxracing one has direct airflow through it and is much thicker but has longer pipework and less surface area.

[NW T5R]

Good writeup!!! Now all that's needed is a bumper that has a big enough opening for the I/C.

[Auburn T5]

brilliant thread, i've been doing a lot of searches regarding front mounts recently and it's something i'm definetly considering.

the only thing thats bothering me though is wether an intercooler thats 27" x 7" or whatever is actually better then the OEM?

i'm not criticising anyone or anything, i am genuinely interested.

obviously the oem intercooler has a greater surface area but is covered by the air con condenser. the cxracing one has direct airflow through it and is much thicker but has longer pipework and less surface area.

yes they are. They flow MUCH better and cool more effeciently with less surface area due to better design. Bar/Plate is much much better than the Fin design the stock cooler has.

I've got this one

http://www.nolimitmotorsport.com/prod/AS1021

And though it says it supports 350 hp, in real world performance, it would be equivalent to a 500 hp CX racing or other knock off generic import IC. Case in point, a local guy here has a civic (don't laugh) that was putting down around 450fwhp. The generic chinese (I assume) bar/plate FMIC was swapped out with this one

http://www.nolimitmotorsport.com/prod/AS1026

And with no other changes, the car laid down numerous consistent 500+ hp runs.

Anyways, the one I've got fits nice and neatly behind the bumper with no modification needed.

(no the zip ties aren't still holding it up)

[Chilled man]

hmmm I need to get off my ass and install mine ;)