Looking For Timing Belt Tips

[Jippi 855 GLT]

take ur time and dont rush.. double and triple check ur marks, and hand crank the motor a few revs before turning it over with the starter..

[Ozark Lee]

Crank it to #1 TDC. It is a pri(k to find the mark on the crank pulley.

Just cut the old belt off, I use a pair of tin snips to to that. It will save the aggravation of trying to thread it off around the crank pulley.

The cam locker is a waste of time and money in my opinion - just pay attention to the timing marks as you go. The cams have significant enough resistance that they won't move unless you really force the issue.

As you thread the new belt on make sure that it is very taught from the crank pulley, across the idler, and onto the intake cam - from there it is cake.

After you get everything locked down and pull the grenade pin crank it though by hand for a couple of revolutions and recheck the marks - it is easy to get a tooth off if there is any slop at all when you thread the belt from the crank pulley across the idler to the intake cam pulley.

I use a thin film of blue RTV to hold the waterpump gasket in place as I install the new waterpump since that job is done more by feel than sight and you have obstructions that you need to thread it through. Just for the heck of it I also put a gob of blue RTV on the water pump bolts to assure a good seal. Getting the remnants of the old waterpump gasket off of the block can be a chore but be thorough to avoid leaks.

My 2¢ on top of the $25.00 you have already got. I've only done 3 of them.

...Lee

[mmmmmmm]

Thanks to all for the great info.

[erikv11]

remove the serp belt tensioner

It is trivially easy, only one bolt (or was it 2?), and it makes it a lot easier to move the water pump in and out, stuff like that.

[betterthingstodo]

Crank it to #1 TDC. It is a pri(k to find the mark on the crank pulley.

...Lee

Lee,

What procedure do you use to determine TDC?

[7 VII 7]

Lee,

What procedure do you use to determine TDC?

with the timing belt on... turn the crank clockwise till the cams cogs line up correctly on the timing belt plastic cover (you can NOT be off a tooth or it will be messed up)

when they are set look down at the crank to make sure that line is lined up correctly with the line on the oil pump/block

and you are at TDC

[mmmmmmm]

Ok so TDC is exactly what bay 13 tells you to do, then..

[64pvolvo1800]

Ok so TDC is exactly what bay 13 tells you to do, then..

I lined up the cams and looked all over that damn crank for a mark. Never could find it. Finally just ran with it. Made sure the cams were exactly where i left them and didn't move the crank. All went well. Just keep all the tension in a counterclockwise order starting with the crank, to the intake cam, to the exhaust cam, and let the slack be taken up below the exhaust cam. Think of the exhaust, intake, crank as a perfect "7" and you'll be OK.

[cn90]

My Tricks...

1998 and prior:

http://volvospeed.com/Repair/timingbelt.php

Somewhere (?late 1998 and after..the tensioner is temp-dependent);

http://www.babcox.com/editorial/intercooler/ic60326.htm

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Now my tips:

As a rule:

- TB good for 60-70K (although you can push the limit, I'd not do it, not worth the risk)

NOTE: Trick is:

1. After lining things up, in addition to the marks from factory on the cams and crank, I make one additional make on each cam and the crank (using white liquid paper) somewhere easy to see, just double insurance!

I mark the Cam Shats at 12 o'clock position and on the plastic cover at corresponding locations.

I mark the CRANKSHAFT at 9 o'clock position.

2. When installing the NEW TB, use Bay 13 bungy cord trick; loop the new belt around:

- WP pulley and tensioner pulley

- Crankshaft, now left hand holding the other side of the belt tight, righ hand pulls the belt so it is snugged with CRANKSHAFT

- Then loop around right cam (intake cam)...then loop around the RIGHT hand pulley (fixed in place), keep tension on the TB with LEFT hand.

- Then loop around left camshaft.

3. IMPORTANT TRICK: install the tensioner (I used a new one). If you use the old one then compress it VERY SLOWLY per Bay 13, insert the pin.

Here is the trick: INSTALL the tensioner with pin in and white plastic collar.

DO NOT release the pin until you have TURNED the engine clockwise 2 revolutions by hand.

(I learned this from mistake, things did not line up, I ended up removing the brand new tensioner and compress them again, it is a PAIN!)

4. ONLY AFTER 2 revolutions and things line up fine, then release the pin.

AFTER relasing the pin so the tensioner now tensions the TB, remove the bungee cord.

Turn the CRANK 2 more revolutions (again BY HAND!!! There is no room for error here.) and CHECK the marks again before you start the engine! Nothing is worse than having the Timing Belts Off marks and crank the engine using the battery.

Better be safe than sorry.

- Any tensioner anywhere between 70-120K depending on luck. I changed mine at 54K, just want to sleep well at night and do not have 3-4K to fix an engine head should the tensioner fails.

If more than 130-140K, do the WHOLE thing:

- TB itself

- Pulleys x 2

- Tensioner

- Water Pump

- Front Crankshaft seal.

* Optional:

- Drive Belt

- Drive Belt Pulleys/Tensioner.

[mmmmmmm]

I'm only at 85ish on the engine, but I'm changing tensioners and water pump as preventative measure. I don't trust water pumps. lolz. Thanks for the great info man

[7 VII 7]

I'm only at 85ish on the engine, but I'm changing tensioners and water pump as preventative measure. I don't trust water pumps. lolz. Thanks for the great info man

Yeah my TB was done 5 years ago or 30k miles ago and I am doing EVERYTHING down there

Water Pump

Tensioner Pulley

Idler Pulley

Hydraulic Tensioner

Timing Belt

S-Belt

[jfo]

One last tip.....the Bay 13 pic of the CRANK mark shows a small mark or cut in the valley, between the teeth. On your S70, you may see that the ENGINE mark is centered between TWO marks on adjacent crank teeth.

[Gilhuly]

All good tips. On routing the TB the bugee technique is good. Back the crank off a 1/2 tooth. This will make it less likely that you willbe off a tooth. It will pick up the tiny amount of slack as soon as you rotate it by hand and will be very easy to see if you have everything lined up

[7 VII 7]

All good tips. On routing the TB the bugee technique is good. Back the crank off a 1/2 tooth. This will make it less likely that you willbe off a tooth. It will pick up the tiny amount of slack as soon as you rotate it by hand and will be very easy to see if you have everything lined up

but if you are careful and keep everything tight you will not have to do that :D

[a2matt]

One last tip.....the Bay 13 pic of the CRANK mark shows a small mark or cut in the valley, between the teeth. On your S70, you may see that the ENGINE mark is centered between TWO marks on adjacent crank teeth.

I was doing the TB on my V70 today. There were two marks on the tops of the crankshaft teeth to center the engine mark between. It was hard to get a good photo, but if you get in there with a flashlight, you'll see them.