7 VII 7 Posted February 16, 2009 Report Share Posted February 16, 2009 oh ok, so it could be between the valley on the crank or between the top of two teeth on the crank? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzimark Posted February 16, 2009 Report Share Posted February 16, 2009 oh ok, so it could be between the valley on the crank or between the top of two teeth on the crank?Or missing all together because it's covered in dirt. I never saw one on my S70, and I looked quite a few times. Then again, I could just be blind :lol: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jfo Posted February 16, 2009 Report Share Posted February 16, 2009 That's right. Line up the cam pulleys and then shine a bright flashlight down on the crank. If you don't see the small notches, reach down and try to feel them. Mine were easy to spot but some have said that grease was in the way. If you don't see them, rotate the crank and look again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7 VII 7 Posted February 16, 2009 Report Share Posted February 16, 2009 So I got my water pump and bolts OEMthere is blue stuff on the bolts... so I am assuming that is good.does anyone have a picture of where the tensioner pulley goes with the tensioner pulley not in the spot... trying to figure how it will sit in there.Thanks!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
a2matt Posted February 16, 2009 Report Share Posted February 16, 2009 does anyone have a picture of where the tensioner pulley goes with the tensioner pulley not in the spot... trying to figure how it will sit in there.Ask and ye shall recieve (it's too cold outside to finish scraping the water pump gasket off of my engine, I figured I'd take more pictures instead).Here is the new tensioner pulley. You can see the bump where the hydraulic tensioner hits it. The bolt does not come out.To get it off the block, you need a T-45. Everyone has been raving about the harbor freight socket. I damn near stripped out my bolt with it when trying to break it free using a ratchet. To break it free, I used this contaption - a 5/16" box wrench on my normal t-45 socket with a 20" piece of 3/4" black pipe on the end for a breaker bar. You have a lot more control with this setup. Once you break it loose, the HF socket rules.One more hot tip- get this 12mm flex socket (3/8" drive) to get the lower bolt on the hydraulic tensioner started (you'll need an open-end wrench to finish the job).And finally, here's a better picture of the two V-marks on the crankshaft pulley with the idler & tensioner pullies out of the way.FWIW - I'm replacing everything, but the bearings on the waterpump & tensioner pulley all felt good even after 160,000 miles. The idler pulley was not perfect, but it wasn't too bad. The serpentine belt tensioner pulley was getting bad and the serpentine belt itself was toast (it's never been changed). The timing belt was actually in very good shape. It was changed 70,000 miles / 4 years ago. I think age might be the enemy to these belts more than mileage. It also helped that there was no oil or coolant leaking on the belt, either. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7 VII 7 Posted February 16, 2009 Report Share Posted February 16, 2009 these are all awesome tips and pictures!!This should be pinned! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7 VII 7 Posted February 17, 2009 Report Share Posted February 17, 2009 how does the white plastic piece fit and get installed on the Hydraulic Tensioner to the Tensioner Pulley? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matty Moo Posted February 17, 2009 Report Share Posted February 17, 2009 how does the white plastic piece fit and get installed on the Hydraulic Tensioner to the Tensioner Pulley?It snaps right back on the same way it was on there. I didn't see a new one in my box of goodies, so I just threw the old one back on.About the harbor freight socket. It will get blown out and strip before the bolt head does. Better the $1 chinese tool than a bolt that's stuck in the block. I knew it was going to be soft, so I bought 2. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7 VII 7 Posted February 17, 2009 Report Share Posted February 17, 2009 It snaps right back on the same way it was on there. I didn't see a new one in my box of goodies, so I just threw the old one back on.About the harbor freight socket. It will get blown out and strip before the bolt head does. Better the $1 chinese tool than a bolt that's stuck in the block. I knew it was going to be soft, so I bought 2.I am going to get a Sears T45 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erikv11 Posted February 17, 2009 Report Share Posted February 17, 2009 instead of 2 or 3 different tools cobbled together get one decent quality L-shaped torx for that nasty pulley bolt, that is what I did. With a pipe sleeve as an extension and pretty much anything to lever it in at the bottom while you turn it, it works perfectly, no screwing around. When you're done you'll have it for next time too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7 VII 7 Posted February 17, 2009 Report Share Posted February 17, 2009 will a 3/8" with a T45 socket fit in there? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matty Moo Posted February 17, 2009 Report Share Posted February 17, 2009 If you use the 1/4" sears 45 make sure you have a real long ratchet, or a a small enough pipe to use as a breaker. 1/4 ratchet is kinda small, especially when you're in that area.The hf t-45 will fit in there with the 3/8, and I had one other 3/8 t-45 that would fit in there, but had another that was a bit too long. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erikv11 Posted February 17, 2009 Report Share Posted February 17, 2009 will a 3/8" with a T45 socket fit in there?Dave see my post on bottom p 2: L-shaped torx rocks for this job, way better than socketsyou will still need a thin pipe for an extensionand take out the serp belt tensioner, one bolt lots of extra room for your hands getting in and out of there Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
a2matt Posted February 17, 2009 Report Share Posted February 17, 2009 will a 3/8" with a T45 socket fit in there?No. If you use a 3/8" drive, you need the HF T45 socket. All other T45 sockets will be too long. I'll measure the gap tomorrow when I finish putting it back together. Damn it's cold outside.L-shaped torx rocks for this jobAnyone know where to get L-shaped torx? You need one for taking off the plastic shroud which runs around the bottom half of the timing belt (you would only take it off if you were replacing the water pump and the gasket didn't want to come off easily). Scraping the water pump gasket off with that plastic in the way was a real PITA. Also, an L-shaped torx would have been the perfect tool for changing the oil cooler hoses without pulling the oil thermostat housing off of the block. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7 VII 7 Posted February 17, 2009 Report Share Posted February 17, 2009 hmm... I might have to get creative Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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