Serge Posted February 17, 2009 Report Share Posted February 17, 2009 * Cam locking tool is NOT necessary, unless you really plan to screw it up by moving stuff around.* Make sure the front engine mount is in good shape otherwise you can't get the belt off/on. * If you want you can cut the old belt because it's easier getting the new one on than taking the old one off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erikv11 Posted February 17, 2009 Report Share Posted February 17, 2009 ...Anyone know where to get L-shaped torx? ...Searspersonally I wouldn't (didn't) buy super quality here, it is a rarely used tool (ok here come flames from the tool snobs ... )$4 for the T-45 $32 for a set etc Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7 VII 7 Posted February 17, 2009 Report Share Posted February 17, 2009 Searspersonally I wouldn't (didn't) buy super quality here, it is a rarely used tool (ok here come flames from the tool snobs ... )$4 for the T-45 $32 for a set etcThanks!!same link twice BTW Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7 VII 7 Posted February 24, 2009 Report Share Posted February 24, 2009 a little follow up... when you use the T45 to tighten the tensioner pulley... do you tighten it to torque spec when it is in the non tensioned position or when it is in the tensioned position as if the hydraulic tensioner was installed?thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keaton85 Posted February 24, 2009 Report Share Posted February 24, 2009 Doesnt matter.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ozark Lee Posted February 24, 2009 Report Share Posted February 24, 2009 do you tighten it to torque spec when it is in the non tensioned position or when it is in the tensioned position as if the hydraulic tensioner was installed?I did mine with the German method - Gootandtight. So far it has held up on both of them that I changed the tensioner rollers on. The only trick is to get the roller above the back of the plastic on the back part of the cam cover before you snug it up....Lee Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7 VII 7 Posted February 28, 2009 Report Share Posted February 28, 2009 I need to go buy Volvo Coolant and I can tackle this jobI hope I do not mess anything up! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keaton85 Posted February 28, 2009 Report Share Posted February 28, 2009 I need to go buy Volvo Coolant and I can tackle this jobI hope I do not mess anything up!Why volvo coolent? I suspect that would be expensive. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
64pvolvo1800 Posted February 28, 2009 Report Share Posted February 28, 2009 Thanks!!same link twice BTWI just finished the first of my latest two rounds of TB replacements on Thursday night. Had to go buy the Craftsman T socket set cause the cheap ass HF broke right off. I had to use a 5/16 wrench on the tork bit itself, and a cheaper bar on the wrench, all the while holding a very large chisel as a spacer between the frame and the back of the socket to keep it from wanting to slide out of the bolt. It was TIGHT, I suspect tighter then the 40Nm it calls for to torque it back down. 115k miles on the NA and the TB Idler pulley was almost frozen. It started making a howl while idling and I caught it before it came completely apart. Did not use and never have used the cam locker either. Just timed them, cut the belt, R&R everything, idler, tensioner pulleys, hydraulic tensioner and belt, torqued everything back down and voila, all is well again. I will never ever do a TB change without doing the full gamut of parts. If that pulley had failed it would be an engine instead.Good luck. btw I changed the serpentine idler and tensioner pulley too. Easy and both were almost shot too. Got 139,900 on the T5 now and it's next.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erikv11 Posted February 28, 2009 Report Share Posted February 28, 2009 ... Had to go buy the Craftsman T socket set cause the cheap ALL GLORY TO THE HYPNOTOAD HF broke right off. I had to use a 5/16 wrench on the tork bit itself, and a cheaper bar on the wrench, all the while holding a very large chisel as a spacer between the frame and the back of the socket ...Maybe this one was overtightened but this is why I suggest the L-shaped torx - one tool, it works. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
a2matt Posted February 28, 2009 Report Share Posted February 28, 2009 I didn't use the cam lock, either, but I wish that I had since I kept bumping the exhaust cam. Luckily, I had measured the distance between timing marks (see below) which saved my arse.Here are a few more tips from my first time experience. Most of this is "gee, I won't do that again" stuff. Do as I say, not as I do. 1) Mark the cams with white out / correction fluid. Just put some on the timing marks and smear with your finger so that it only stays in the tiny groove. I also found a tooth on the intake cam which lined up perfectly with one of the marks on the plastic cover. I marked it, too.2) Take a stick and mark the distance between the marks on the two cams. This comes in real handy if you should bump one of the cams.You can't really see it in this picture, but I used a razor knife to mark the distance. This way, if you bump the cam, you don't need to put the cover back on - you just use the stick. I used this stick at least 10 times.3) After installing the new belt, but before pulling the pin on the tensioner, you're supposed to crank it around a couple of times to make sure the timing marks are still lined up. When you do this, only go clockwise. If you backup, there isn't enouch tension and the crank gear will move but the cams will not and you'll be off. Yet another reason to know where the marks are on the crank gear.4) Don't bolt the hydraulic tensioner on until AFTER you have the belt on. I thought that with the pin installed it wouldn't be a problem bolting it on early. Wrong.5) If you are doing the water pump, get some sort of gasket solvent to help get it off. Mine took forever and I even had to use sandpaper (not my first choice - I used RTV on the gasket just in case I effed it up). Make sure you have a little mirror to see if you got all of it off.6) Take off the air pipe running from the ECU box to the firewall. It will just pull apart at the elbow. It has no fasteners, just a friction fit. 7) If you have an L-torx, you might be able to get the plastic side cover off (it's a tight fit between the crank serpentine pulley and the block to get at the torx bolt holding the plastic on). If the cover is off, it will make cleaning the water pump gasket easier. I couldn't get it off, so I'm just guessing - since I don't think pulling off that gasket could have been any harder.8) When installing the new tensioner puller, you can use a couple of shims to hold it above the plastic side cover. This makes it much easier to get the bolt started.The bottom shim lies on the plastic cover (on the left) and the crank serp pulley (on the right). The top shim is used to keep the pulley level. These pictures show what you're trying to do:These shims aren't really necessary, but I found the pulley was top heavy and it kept wanting to tip over on me before I could get the bolt started. If you've got scrap wood lying around, it makes starting the bolt a piece of cake. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
64pvolvo1800 Posted February 28, 2009 Report Share Posted February 28, 2009 Maybe this one was overtightened but this is why I suggest the L-shaped torx - one tool, it works.already had the L shpaed torx too, but it was even harder to keep it in place. At least the socket gave me a flat surface to wedge the chisel against to keep it head on into the screw head. Total PITA!. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7 VII 7 Posted March 1, 2009 Report Share Posted March 1, 2009 I just finished the first of my latest two rounds of TB replacements on Thursday night. Had to go buy the Craftsman T socket set cause the cheap ass HF broke right off. I had to use a 5/16 wrench on the tork bit itself, and a cheaper bar on the wrench, all the while holding a very large chisel as a spacer between the frame and the back of the socket to keep it from wanting to slide out of the bolt. It was TIGHT, I suspect tighter then the 40Nm it calls for to torque it back down. 115k miles on the NA and the TB Idler pulley was almost frozen. It started making a howl while idling and I caught it before it came completely apart. Did not use and never have used the cam locker either. Just timed them, cut the belt, R&R everything, idler, tensioner pulleys, hydraulic tensioner and belt, torqued everything back down and voila, all is well again. I will never ever do a TB change without doing the full gamut of parts. If that pulley had failed it would be an engine instead.Good luck. btw I changed the serpentine idler and tensioner pulley too. Easy and both were almost shot too. Got 139,900 on the T5 now and it's next..lol, how important is it to torque everything down correctly? I do not have my torque wrench with me :( Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
64pvolvo1800 Posted March 1, 2009 Report Share Posted March 1, 2009 lol, how important is it to torque everything down correctly? I do not have my torque wrench with me as Dirty Harry woudl say......"do you feel lucky?" for years, i have used the gutentite method on many pieces of equipment and engines/mechanical repairs. However, for the $20-30 for even a cheapy wrench, I would highly recommend it. It's a pity to spend $4000 on the car, $400 on the parts, and then have it come apart because you didn;t want to spend $40 on the right tool ;) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Medicman55 Posted March 1, 2009 Report Share Posted March 1, 2009 I've been throwing around the idea of changing my timing belt, and I'm really happy to see this thread come up! I am looking at whether I have the manual or automatically adjusting cam. I just copied the numbers off my engine.The numbers are:11097526821255Nothing really specifies which number to use. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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