lookforjoe Posted January 20, 2020 Author Report Share Posted January 20, 2020 Engine wouldn't start - no ECU activation. Though it might be an immobilizer issue, but it turned out I missed wired the ECU base feed from the main relay instead of the fuel pump relay switched circuit. added the extra wire from the F/Pump relay feed fuse to E9 circuit, and it's all good! Ran it for just long enough to set the fuel pressure to 50psi and that was about it. https://youtu.be/uY6dsARp0lg Only ran it for some seconds - the garage had to be wide open at both ends as the hose would stay on the exhaust. Have two minor cooling leaks (water housng gasket I didn't bother changing, and pin hole in heater hose off T/stat exension housing) to address. No oil or other fluid leaks that I could see :D Tach works, etc. Have to set some parameters in K-Tuner, as the idle surged after start idle mode. I read that the TPS has to be calibrated in the software, so need to look into that. ODBII port is wired Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted January 21, 2020 Author Report Share Posted January 21, 2020 Used a S40 wheel arch liner to make a cover for the EMS wiring secured with one plastic rivet I'll cover it with carpet made a couple extra heat sheilds from some extra material from the S40 Have to add one more sheild for the rear body panel reworked the heater hose feed elbow, it was sticking out too far & causing the heater hose to hit the shift linkage all good now Got all the drivers properly installed - had to reinstall the app with the ECU connected & powered for it to work changed the injector sizing, but didn't realize the dead times had to be manually set - this is the stock 310cc times After taking care of the cooling system I started & ran the motor for maybe a minute, and saw that the WBO2 was reading 10 (!) so I shut it down. These are the dead times I should have switched to before running it I'll reload the tune tomorrow, hopefully it'll be all good now. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted January 22, 2020 Author Report Share Posted January 22, 2020 Took care of several things today. Finished cleaning up the mats Good enough for another year or so Bled the clutch. Haven't done the pedal box, but wanted to check if the pedal return spring faux-pas was the cause of my bleeding woes. Clutch bled in about ten strokes. Bottle with fluid attached to bleeder. Crack open bleeder, stroke until pedal firms. Check reservoir after each 3-4 strokes. Close bleeder. Clutch disengages close to the floor, but no matter it works. With that, I dropped the car & drove it out the garage under it's own steam Several problems. Engine runs wayyy too rich, and won't idle below 1800rpm. Youtube Worse thing - heater core is now leaking after I cleaned out the heater box drain Drip Drip Drip youtube Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
apeacock Posted January 24, 2020 Report Share Posted January 24, 2020 So sweet! Did you really find just 1 unpined wire? Kind of nice to have such a smoking gun in this case. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted January 25, 2020 Author Report Share Posted January 25, 2020 6 hours ago, apeacock said: So sweet! Did you really find just 1 unpined wire? Kind of nice to have such a smoking gun in this case. Yes, thank goodness that was all it was, as far as that goes. Problem is it doesn't run well at all. Idle surges & AFR's sweep wildly, so I haven't even run it to full warm up yet. Have some work to do to figure out what's going on Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brad850 Posted January 25, 2020 Report Share Posted January 25, 2020 This car is going to be so much fun to drive Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted January 27, 2020 Author Report Share Posted January 27, 2020 On 1/25/2020 at 12:43 PM, Brad850 said: This car is going to be so much fun to drive I certainly expect so ! Temps in the high 30's today, so I pushed the car outside to run it. I modded the RSX tune using the TSX VTEC settings & rpm limits & uploaded to the ECU. After that I ran the motor briefly. Sounds good & AFR's are good. Only obvious problem is high idle now. First up I pulled the IACV & found the crappy seal was cracked, and leaking. With the two ports plugged in the TB, the idle was closer to normal. after that, I ran the motor to normal operating temp - 180 something for the K24, fan cycled. then I sprayed around the TB & intake plenum to check for possible air leaks. I did order a smoke machine - been meaning to get one for some time - but it won't be here for close to a week. I got an idle change when spraying the right side edge of the plenum unbolted the compressor, undid the plenum have to remove the support backet also, all easy to get to with the larger opening Just have to ease the gasket out & new one in I don't see any wear/uneven compression on the one I removed though Put it back together, and it sounded worse! So, I took the plenum off entirely, that wasn't to bad either, just have to drop the alternator to allow removal I found that there is a hole in the welds of the crotch between 1 & 2. I have to take the plenum back to the machine shop, that was one of the tricky areas I had him finish for me. I've also ordered one of the thermal intermediate gaskets (3mm), as I'm not confident that the skinny metal gasket is ever going to seal properly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted January 30, 2020 Author Report Share Posted January 30, 2020 This is where i'm at: Tried the CompBrake mockup box I don't know how much height clearance there is above the pedal box - however this would need a few inches of clearance to work. Decided I'll be much happier with a setup that with less complexity, so I'm going ahead with building the bias bar off the pedal arm pivot. Have to figure out how to box out the mounting plate I need to make to prevent flex under braking this will be welded here, with that offset I only need to widen the entire assembly by an inch 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted February 1, 2020 Author Report Share Posted February 1, 2020 Welded the bias bar sleeve to the brake pedal cut a slot for the bias bar to recess in to Worked on the MC mount plate mock up Need to add ridge to make plate more rigid 1.25" offset will be good 3.25" height, 4.5" wide Will add webbing to support mount plate clutch pedal needs to sit approx 1/4" out for stop to sit on buffer/adjuster Bushing needs to be 6.375" Have to cut this out more where mrker line is to allow pedal to come forward / up Bought some 1.25" and 3" flat bar stock to work with. Then I remembered I had a spare eBrake pulley cover from the parts car, so I cut that down. Alrady has a nice rolled edge for rigidity Bolts will be welded in place - reverse position of what is shown here - no practical way to access the bolt heads once the webbing is in Welded the brake pivot extension "L" section under the forward edge rear extension With V70 clutch master in place Have to cut back the bracketry directly under the bias bar - it is just touching on the midsection plate at full height Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted February 2, 2020 Author Report Share Posted February 2, 2020 Wrapping up the pedal box welding. Required assembly/diassembly multiple times to check fit, clearances, adjustments, tweaking of clearance areas around the Bias Bar, MC fitment area fettling after welding, etc., bent pedal arm again to get 4" offset back. Can't be wider, just no room under there Brake lines from MC's have to go the this junction. Have to make those next. 3/-24 at MC to M10x1.25 (or is it 1.00 pitch, I forgot) at junction Hose routing or Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted February 4, 2020 Author Report Share Posted February 4, 2020 I made the brake lines yesterday, and finshed the layout today. The stock MC had two front outlets, so I needed to split the front output to two lines. I repurposed one of the stock junction boxes. Cross-drilled the channels & tapped with 1/8 NPT to block it off Blocked off one of the outlets Lines done Rear MC goes to the single junction. MC ends are 3/8-24, junction end is M10x1.25 Bracket will retain the two junctions Spent a few hours the past couple days trying to find the cause of the P10009 Cam Angle code. As soon as the code is set, the cam stays in the full retard position. I replaced the Cam angle solenoid, and rechecked the filter screen on the side of the head. After that, I looked further in to the software. The basic setting is this one: I set it to 24º, taking these values from the TSX base code. Today, I found the Cam angle map, and replaced the values in that with those for the TSX: I hoped that would fix it, but it did not. What I found was that the other 25º cam angle setup found in the Accord, only had a 20º Cam Angle Limit. Since the map only goes to 20º, I figured that may be why the code is setting, so I reduced the limit to 20º, and that fixed it! Yay! The car ran better off the line with the RSX map, which has higher values lower in the rpm & load ranges, so I will try adding some degrees back in, without exceeding the limit. I'm going to take it for tuning in a couple weeks, now it OK overall. I've also had issues with the idle. Can't get the IACV to operate properly, so I have disabled it for the time being. The problem there is, if a code sets, the engine won't rev nicely, it stumbles & stutters off idle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted February 12, 2020 Author Report Share Posted February 12, 2020 GPS for Marshall Speedo will likely go here Worked on a new gauge pod. Not going to put a stereo in the upper dash. M4 rivnuts vinyl cover Oil Temp, WBO2, 5bar Volvo gauge used for fuel pressure Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted February 16, 2020 Author Report Share Posted February 16, 2020 done. mod the shifter base to clear the housing, didn't want to engage 5th so well Installed the 50º cam gear. Took hours, as I really, really did not want to risk dropping the chain off the crank gear. TDC Remove tensioner cover, then rotate CCW, lock tensioner, rotate back to TDC marker Removed all the cam caps chain tie-wrapped on either side to prevent it dropping Also secured in the middle as per various videos, however this makes no sense, as with it tensioned from above, you can't get the chain off the gear Ditched the brace & center strap. Very fiddly getting the chain off the gear, then getting the cam and gear out of the head. No pics. Transferred PND gear, torqued to 83ft/lb, reinstalled into head. Made sure dots in gears aligned with marker lines I made on chain. Rotated a couple revolutions and checked all markers again Had to redo the OP sender channel - I had made it for 1/8" NPT port, but the correct sender I have is actually M14x1.5, so I redrilled & tapped it & installed the correct sender All back together Finally got the bushing (turned down to match stock OD, bored to 9/16 (.002" over) and new 9/16" stainless steel shaft from the machine shaft, $180 later.... hopefully get it in the car during the coming week, along with the heater core (maybe, don't really need that yet ) Welded the shaft to the clutch pedal, then put the pedal assembly together, set to center on the bias bar. Figuring out the gauge layout with the Marshall Speedo & Tach. Has to fit 15" x 4.125", difficult to get the 4 52mm in that space. I'll move the speedo / tach closer together to gain a touch of space for the small gauges in the low 20's today, but sunny & dry, so I took it out to make sure the new cam gear is good. Maybe this year I'll get the stripes done Got it on a lift after that, no leaks I can see 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gmsgltr Posted February 17, 2020 Report Share Posted February 17, 2020 Wow! Congrats man! It looks great! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted February 19, 2020 Author Report Share Posted February 19, 2020 This is how I had it mocked up in cardboard - not going to work with my steering wheel holesawed out the gauge holes, with the 52mm gauges reversed Checking the gauge clearance in the aperture. not sure how I'm going to finish the surface, probably just clear coat. Still have to figure out all the idiot light arrangements and so... Wirign goes slow. GPS sender for the speedo in on top of dash, not going to bother me there Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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