lookforjoe Posted February 21, 2020 Author Report Share Posted February 21, 2020 CEIKA parts with the revised offset came a couple days ago, so I put the front brakes on figuring out the remote bias adjuster setup No evidence of any leaks or wiring issues so I put the spare well cover in today, I've been driving around with it open. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gmsgltr Posted February 21, 2020 Report Share Posted February 21, 2020 purdy brakes! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted February 29, 2020 Author Report Share Posted February 29, 2020 Put the new wheels on, the old ones don't clear the front brakes without more than 1/2" spacer, so I'm not using them at this point Forgot to put the rear ceter caps on... while I had it jacked up to put the rears on, I looked around to check for leaks, and the source of the rattle/clunk I was hearing when cornering. No evidence of anything rubbing, except the corner of the trans case up against the inner frame rail (area Rodger pointed out) - where I obviously didn't push it out far enough. The other thing I found was that the exhaust can rotate too much - the three mounts I made aren't enough - I had to add a fourth to counter the rotation under load allowed by the flex coupler. The problem is that now I've rotated it back to where it should be, the coupler leaks So, I need to get a new one.... After that, I worked a little on my digital clock revision - since I have a old school clock in the cluster now, I'm changing the factory one to a digital ambient/interior temp gauge, in blue to match the voltmeter Drilled a pass-though so the probe sits through the facia, above the display Fitted the ambient temp gauge. May need to figure out how to dim it. Swapped out the AEM WBO2 sensor - it reads 1 pt leaner than the EMS output when hot. Same sensor as Volvo C30, so I had a spare While I was back there, I swapped out the VDO OP sender for the Fiat-appropriate unit from MWB putting back the cover panels 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gmsgltr Posted March 2, 2020 Report Share Posted March 2, 2020 always amazing - thank you also for staying loyal to VS and sharing! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyfishing3 Posted March 3, 2020 Report Share Posted March 3, 2020 Good stuff Huessein Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tuner4life Posted March 3, 2020 Report Share Posted March 3, 2020 This thing is so cool! So much work and attention to detail! Great job! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted March 4, 2020 Author Report Share Posted March 4, 2020 Thanks, Guys! Turned out the flex coupler had not broken, not in the sense I was expecting anyway. The end collar separated from the lining. Perhaps my delicate (for once) weld on that seam was the problem - didn't penetrate to the inner material. So, I pressed it back on & welded it on the inner lip seam. While I was on the exhaust I cut back the tailpipe and welded the RedTail exhaust tip on Finished up the remote adjuster for the balance bar. Made a bracket for the adjuster knob, and a reinforcing plate for the backside of the dash. Threaded the knob plate for M4x.75 screws Bracket installed, cable cut and braised to prevent unwinding. Routed the cable over here to keep potential cable kinks to a minimum. I considered putting it under the driver's side, but it would be in the way. On the inboard side of the PS, it would be in the way of removing the fusebox, so it is what it is. Shouldn't need to be adjusting it while driving anyway. Washed the car yesterday for the first time since I started the k24 work Interior mostly back together swapped out the ambient temp gauge for one that is more legible in sunlight switched to ºF 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted March 17, 2020 Author Report Share Posted March 17, 2020 Dash & switches done for now. Remade the low side(#10) hose. 135º fitting at compressor, #12 MOR, welded to #10 beadlock hose barb. Nice & relaxed fit now. It's clear of the bulkhead - just looks like it's close Made a modified #8 elbow fitting - didn't need to remake the hose with this. Hopefully it holds vacuum now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted March 18, 2020 Author Report Share Posted March 18, 2020 Installed the C30 AWD rear Posi - carrier bearings 32008X/Q x2 about an hour or so to get the mating surfaces free of anaerobic sealant remains preload shim on right side, left side gets the backlash adjuster right side cup & preload shim going in diff in, cover sealed with anaerobic sealant, torqued to 18ft/lb new axle seals 8653928 x2 preload set (5.25 turns), then used old seal to install new seals Had to drill & tap the remains of the rear CV, it was jammed in the pinion flange Next I can remove the flange, and replace the Haldex filter & rebuild the pump. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted April 2, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 2, 2020 I finally decided to make the Dallara stripe templates. I used a couple old pics for reference, as opposed to some of the other repro Dallara. Tagboard to make the templates. The duct area is going to be a nightmare to fit. Some panels are close enough that reversing the template will work, some not so much. Got all the decals cut from the 3M 1080 film. It's one of the new wrap films that are actually porous, so they claim it doesn't bubble when installed. I don't have a great track record with conventional decal material, so we'll see how this goes. Panels are 5.125" deep. They need to ride just over the door crease, not within it, I've seen ones like that & it just looks wrong. Hard to tell if the line is really right - it's not actually straight from front ot back. The front fender forward section has to drop to the headlamp area, but on the actual Dallara it has a bulge in it that tapers in a way I don't like , so I had to make adjustments to the line. I used painters tape to add a slightly bow to the upper line where it comes forward of the wheel arch, then it drops. Hopefully it will look right in the decal. I can always make new ones if not. Deliberated on whether to try & either get the door sections manufactured with the ICSUNONOVE, or try & do it myself. In the end, I decided to not bother. May change my mind down the road, however I'm not racing this thing. Having the type on the sides is kinda like those "MAZDA" or "FORD" banners that ppl put across the windshield, etc., when it's already obvious what the car is. That may not be so true for X1/9's these days, but I still don't think it needs it. Completed the stripes around the car. Still need to redo the left duct area. Had to jack the car up to get a decent working height. Too hard to see what's what at ground level pass duct done. Turned the car around & did the pass front fender sections. The rear section took two attempts. Every decal has some imperfection. Took it out to photo in the sunlight. Looks fine from several feet, can't see the creases . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gmsgltr Posted April 2, 2020 Report Share Posted April 2, 2020 I liked it plain red, but I commend you again, like all of your work, well documented and thought out/executed! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted April 3, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 3, 2020 12 hours ago, gmsgltr said: I liked it plain red, but I commend you again, like all of your work, well documented and thought out/executed! Thank you - I liked it just red, but.... it needs the accents - this completes the body design. redid the nose decal, made it narrower to keep the pin stripe spacing even added xpel film under the rear ducts - those areas are already getting stone chipped 2 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gmsgltr Posted April 3, 2020 Report Share Posted April 3, 2020 I read some about the dallara - the wing they had was wild! Also noticed they had an additional bertone 'b' in the vinyl on the B pillar - will you do that as well? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NB-V70R Posted April 3, 2020 Report Share Posted April 3, 2020 This Fiat has come so far. Looks amazing! Always inspiring to see your work 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted April 7, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 7, 2020 On 4/3/2020 at 8:29 AM, gmsgltr said: I read some about the dallara - the wing they had was wild! Also noticed they had an additional bertone 'b' in the vinyl on the B pillar - will you do that as well? The wing is nuts! Looks awesome, but just to OTT for me. I wasn't planning on doing the "iCSONONOVE" or the "b", but I'm going to do the door lettering if I can get it produced for a resonable cost in a matching red. did a paper mock up of the lettering also made lexan headlamp covers - I hadn't noticed it at first, but the original version had them Cut from the basic template, then heated and creased the panels (clamped in a vice) for each side. some trimming required after the fact of course four little "L" brackets will retain each panel. Took some small conduit brackets I had laying around & bent them into the required "L", added a M4 rivnut, and primed/painted. ...and chopped an inch of so off the 960 spoiler chin I had melded into the fibreglass version 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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