Spanky Posted September 25, 2009 Report Share Posted September 25, 2009 Ya I would be scared shitless to meet her also Cute pic hun. I am just messing with you Aaron ;) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tbgC70 Posted October 7, 2009 Report Share Posted October 7, 2009 very informative writeup/pictures aaron, thanks a lot. sorry your problems arent completely solved, but do keep us updated. im having somewhat similar problems (low battery after sitting overnight, headlights dim when brakes are pressed) im going to check these problem areas immediately after work, hopefully it will be a quick fix. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
--Aaron-- Posted October 11, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 11, 2009 Thanks alot, I'm not too sure if the problem is solved or not. Volvo says my car is performing to spec and that there is nothing to worry about although I feel the charging system could be doing better. Overnight the battery retains a full charge, 14.4 roughly.........running w/ no accs on it will get about 14.2 and with lights running I see about 13.8, w/ lights and A/C about 13.5. So as I said, Volvo considers this in spec but I'm still a little on edge about it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chilled man Posted October 11, 2009 Report Share Posted October 11, 2009 Thanks alot, I'm not too sure if the problem is solved or not. Volvo says my car is performing to spec and that there is nothing to worry about although I feel the charging system could be doing better. Overnight the battery retains a full charge, 14.4 roughly.........running w/ no accs on it will get about 14.2 and with lights running I see about 13.8, w/ lights and A/C about 13.5. So as I said, Volvo considers this in spec but I'm still a little on edge about it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brick8 Posted October 16, 2009 Report Share Posted October 16, 2009 Aaron glad you got it all sorted out I went through 3 alternators in less than a year. Finally found out the p/s pump was leaking on to the alternator and killing it. If you have a 98 make sure to go and check it. If you've been cleaning grime off the alternator (i know you would ) its most likely a p/s leak. Just a heads up if the p/s pump leaks it will kill the alternator quick. I am having issues with the charging system on my 2000 v70. I bought the B cable and plan to install it this weekend. Just curious, what harm would there be in removing the ends of the old B cable and then just routing the new one on its own path without messing with all the other wires? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Modus Posted October 16, 2009 Report Share Posted October 16, 2009 I am having issues with the charging system on my 2000 v70. I bought the B cable and plan to install it this weekend. Just curious, what harm would there be in removing the ends of the old B cable and then just routing the new one on its own path without messing with all the other wires? No harm, just a red power wire going to no where. Usually routing wires is contended to be works of art. This is why stereo installers get so much money. J/K Aaron let me know when your ready for this ground. I'm almost certain it will help with the electron flow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
--Aaron-- Posted October 16, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 16, 2009 No harm, just a red power wire going to no where. Usually routing wires is contended to be works of art. This is why stereo installers get so much money. J/K Aaron let me know when your ready for this ground. I'm almost certain it will help with the electron flow. Ready when you are, as I said I really appreciate the deal you're offering. Will this cable split into two as the stock ground harness does? Or will one connection to ground be sufficient? I am having issues with the charging system on my 2000 v70. I bought the B cable and plan to install it this weekend. Just curious, what harm would there be in removing the ends of the old B cable and then just routing the new one on its own path without messing with all the other wires? Just as Modus said, there will be no harm in doing that, just another wire running out of place in the engine bay which will not affect functionality. Replacing the cable in the harness is very challenging to be honest but it keeps it out of sight and where it should be. You can reference my pictures in this thread if you wish as I put them there to halp. Best of luck to you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Modus Posted October 19, 2009 Report Share Posted October 19, 2009 Ready when you are, as I said I really appreciate the deal you're offering. Will this cable split into two as the stock ground harness does? Or will one connection to ground be sufficient? The split, One goes to your chassis and the other to your starter. The cable I made would be used for your chassis, this is what I did for mine. You said your going to get a new terminal? This cable will simply fit into the hole of the terminal and then bolt the lug down to where your original ground point is. As for your starter cable, you will have to cut off the original terminal and then mate it with the new terminal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
--Aaron-- Posted October 21, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 21, 2009 Alright, so thanks to Dave for helping run a few tests on my charging system we nailed it to the remaining original positive cables. That being battery to starter and alternator to starter. I will be replacing both as I have a 1 volt drop across those. Apparently Volvo says a new cable should be installed when seeing a drop over .1 and I'm way past that. Also, no idea how I missed this but my positive wire clamp to the battery gets mutherflocking hot!!!! So that's a symptom as well that I skipped over somehow.... Stay tuned..... The split, One goes to your chassis and the other to your starter. The cable I made would be used for your chassis, this is what I did for mine. You said your going to get a new terminal? This cable will simply fit into the hole of the terminal and then bolt the lug down to where your original ground point is. As for your starter cable, you will have to cut off the original terminal and then mate it with the new terminal. I was under the impression that the split in the ground harness went to the chassis and subframe/trans. area? I've been in that area quite a few times for this and that and swear that ground goes somewhere around the trans...... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brick8 Posted October 24, 2009 Report Share Posted October 24, 2009 How did you get the b+ cable out of the fuse box. I have removed the battery and have removed the nut that holds the lug into the fuse box but I can't figure out how to the cable out of the fuse box without using a lot of force. Ready when you are, as I said I really appreciate the deal you're offering. Will this cable split into two as the stock ground harness does? Or will one connection to ground be sufficient? Just as Modus said, there will be no harm in doing that, just another wire running out of place in the engine bay which will not affect functionality. Replacing the cable in the harness is very challenging to be honest but it keeps it out of sight and where it should be. You can reference my pictures in this thread if you wish as I put them there to halp. Best of luck to you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
--Aaron-- Posted October 24, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 24, 2009 How did you get the b+ cable out of the fuse box. I have removed the battery and have removed the nut that holds the lug into the fuse box but I can't figure out how to the cable out of the fuse box without using a lot of force. Getting it out of the fuse box is a bit tricky..... I removed that large rubber gromet from the underside of the fuse box, there's little snap clip things which hold the fuse holding portions in the box....unsnap those and they'll wiggle out of the way a little bit. From there you should be able to manipulate the cable out, have lots of patience getting the rubber gromet back in, it is a pain. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brick8 Posted October 24, 2009 Report Share Posted October 24, 2009 Thanks, that worked. Unfortunately, I got it in and still no change in the voltage. Getting it out of the fuse box is a bit tricky..... I removed that large rubber gromet from the underside of the fuse box, there's little snap clip things which hold the fuse holding portions in the box....unsnap those and they'll wiggle out of the way a little bit. From there you should be able to manipulate the cable out, have lots of patience getting the rubber gromet back in, it is a pain. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
--Aaron-- Posted October 26, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 26, 2009 Thanks, that worked. Unfortunately, I got it in and still no change in the voltage. Perform a voltage drop test.......that will reveal your issue. :D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
--Aaron-- Posted October 30, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 30, 2009 Well, I finally got to a spot where I could pay some needed attention to the car.....nothing major but was needed none the less. I put a fresh Volvo oil filter on along with the usual Castrol Edge Full Synthetic 10w30, finally got to correctly tighten my downpipe nuts after the new gasket went on a week or so ago and in related news.......... I ordered a new Volvo battery to starter cable from DW and will be replacing that within the next few days. *fingers crossed* For anyone wondering this cable runs ~60 bucks and totalled 68 to my door. They do stock this item. I have a feeling I have done damage to my brand new Volvo battery as well. Instead of 13.8 at night it is now dropping to 13 and staying put for the most part, but obviously that is a little low....if that is the case then after the new cable goes in it looks like I'll be crying to Lehman Volvo to do some sort of sweet exchange deal. I hope this cable solves things, it most def. should. That sucker gets hawttttttt after running for a while. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
64pvolvo1800 Posted October 30, 2009 Report Share Posted October 30, 2009 Well, I finally got to a spot where I could pay some needed attention to the car.....nothing major but was needed none the less. I put a fresh Volvo oil filter on along with the usual Castrol Edge Full Synthetic 10w30, finally got to correctly tighten my downpipe nuts after the new gasket went on a week or so ago and in related news.......... I ordered a new Volvo battery to starter cable from DW and will be replacing that within the next few days. *fingers crossed* For anyone wondering this cable runs ~60 bucks and totalled 68 to my door. They do stock this item. I have a feeling I have done damage to my brand new Volvo battery as well. Instead of 13.8 at night it is now dropping to 13 and staying put for the most part, but obviously that is a little low....if that is the case then after the new cable goes in it looks like I'll be crying to Lehman Volvo to do some sort of sweet exchange deal. I hope this cable solves things, it most def. should. That sucker gets hawttttttt after running for a while. Heat= resistance, R= voltage drop, Vd= current, Current= Heat. You found your problem Aaron. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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