Jaxx Posted October 28, 2009 Report Share Posted October 28, 2009 I really don't understand why the compression would be relatively low like that. It doesn't smoke when cold, but I don't go into boost until the engine reaches normal operating temp. was the motor warm? did you try a wet test as well to see if it made any difference? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted October 28, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 28, 2009 was the motor warm? did you try a wet test as well to see if it made any difference? Refer to Above Post Tests should always be performed on a warm engine.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EricF Posted October 28, 2009 Report Share Posted October 28, 2009 My only other thought right now is the turbo - but personally, I've never seen one smoke on decel - it's always been under boost. There is a fair amount of oil in the inlet/intercooler piping - so I'm wondering if the oil is being sucked back into the intake from the compressor housing... I really don't understand why the compression would be relatively low like that. It doesn't smoke when cold, but I don't go into boost until the engine reaches normal operating temp. If your compression is even, it could have to do with your gauge. I think compression tests are most useful for showing differences between cylinders. Can you check to see if your turbo has any end-end shaft play? If the compressor wheel is pulling forward under boost, then rocking back when you lift off the throttle, there could be oil getting past the hard exhaust side shaft seal when it moves. Just a guess, really not too sure if it would work like that although I seem to recall similar symptoms on one of my setups. Oil in the intercooler piping, I forget, do you have a catch can or not? It's most often just from the PCV... Also, if it was coming through the compressor housing, I think it would stick to the piping and intercooler core before ever reaching the engine itself. Given all of the hard running your engine has seen, if you're still a bit shaken up about the compression readings, you may want to do a leakdown test to check the ring sealing that way. That is a much more repeatable and reliable way of testing in my opinion.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted October 28, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 28, 2009 If your compression is even, it could have to do with your gauge. I think compression tests are most useful for showing differences between cylinders. Can you check to see if your turbo has any end-end shaft play? If the compressor wheel is pulling forward under boost, then rocking back when you lift off the throttle, there could be oil getting past the hard exhaust side shaft seal when it moves. Just a guess, really not too sure if it would work like that although I seem to recall similar symptoms on one of my setups. Oil in the intercooler piping, I forget, do you have a catch can or not? It's most often just from the PCV... Also, if it was coming through the compressor housing, I think it would stick to the piping and intercooler core before ever reaching the engine itself. Given all of the hard running your engine has seen, if you're still a bit shaken up about the compression readings, you may want to do a leakdown test to check the ring sealing that way. That is a much more repeatable and reliable way of testing in my opinion.. Hi Eric The turbo exhaust side seal/piston ring makes the most sense - becuase there is no evidence of oil fouling on the plugs, etc.. It's just the conditions don't match what I'm used to seeing on a leaky turbo... I'll down a leak -down test again - I did one back in the summer, becuase I was concerned about the oil smoke after the DYno @ Carlisle video... no problems found & % was minimal, I can't find my notes on the exact % though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted October 30, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 30, 2009 Good day today! New OT-1 came, and the revised unit works! So now I can log timing & AFR's. Woth ECU with revised tune arrived this evening, so I took it for a quick run, and just happened alongside a newer GTO willing to romp a little. If it wasn't for the clouds of oil smoke on decel it would have been perfect! Also got my black pegs on... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dublin14 Posted October 30, 2009 Report Share Posted October 30, 2009 Good day today! New OT-1 came, and the revised unit works! So now I can log timing & AFR's. Woth ECU with revised tune arrived this evening, so I took it for a quick run, and just happened alongside a newer GTO willing to romp a little. If it wasn't for the clouds of oil smoke on decel it would have been perfect! Also got my black pegs on... Well did ya beat him? The Black pegs look great... makes the car look as bit more nasty! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted October 30, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 30, 2009 Well did ya beat him? The Black pegs look great... makes the car look as bit more nasty! From his exhaust note, he wasn't stock, either - traffic was way to heavy to play around, so it was just a bunch of short pulls. I have no idea if I could pull on him in an open run. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted October 31, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 31, 2009 Good day today! New OT-1 came, and the revised unit works! So now I can log timing & AFR's. Woth ECU with revised tune arrived this evening, so I took it for a quick run, and just happened alongside a newer GTO willing to romp a little. If it wasn't for the clouds of oil smoke on decel it would have been perfect! Also got my black pegs on... Got a response from Hahn Racecraft on the Turbo... it seems the most probable cause is the drain tube angle - it's to close to horizontal where it comes off the CHRA - they reckon under higher boost the oil just isn't draining, and as a result will push past the exhaust side seal into the exhaust. I'm going to redo the drain tube tomorrow, and hopefully that'll be the end of it. Relatively easy fix if that's all it is! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HeavyIron Posted October 31, 2009 Report Share Posted October 31, 2009 Here's hoping for the best :D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Captain Bondo Posted October 31, 2009 Report Share Posted October 31, 2009 Clouds of oil smoke? Sounds like it's getting worse... pulled the plugs? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted November 1, 2009 Author Report Share Posted November 1, 2009 Clouds of oil smoke? Sounds like it's getting worse... pulled the plugs? yeah. Plugs are clean - so I reckon it must be exhaust-side blow-by. Hahn reckons it's my drain tube -due to the lack of acute drain angle. There's just no room to drop the tube further than I now have it with the angle drive in the way. I redid the tube today (twice, 1st try wasn't much better), ended up using the flex egr tubing off a Pontiac grand am/ Silver Soldered the Volvo flange & a short section for the block oring. Anyhow, the oil smoke is still there I just don't see it being the problem, since I've run high boost levels in the past without this issue, on the (now previous) drain tube. After I put it together the 1st time, I took a friend for a test drive - and @ 23psi it started blowing oil out the filler cap along with the (now) usual out the back. That's when I redid the tube with the egr flex pipe. Haven't run high boost (over 22) since, as it's been raining hard, so I don't know if I have crankcase overpressure issue still. This is really frustrating, since I've gone over the breather system time & again (it's all new, anyway), and I just can't see where I can alleviate the pressure. I don't recall others with over 300WHp commenting on crank overpressure issues.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted November 1, 2009 Author Report Share Posted November 1, 2009 For OBD I use Palmer Performance PCMscan, Used a WinMobile Ease OBD also but PCMscan works for me. About the ISO-9141, from what I recall the OT-1 tries to connect through CAN first. I belive the software allows to set it to 9141, need to check because it has been a long time since I last used the device. Johann, can you extract more than one channel? It seems the ECU doesn't transmit at a high enough rate to extract more than one channel with Logworks without the data being really choppy - so all I have is timing & AFR's. Not sure if that will be meaningful enough to translate as a guide for TurboTuner. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boosted850wagon Posted November 1, 2009 Report Share Posted November 1, 2009 new to modding a volvo and i was wondering with the newer oil pan on the older car what does that actually do and how much difference does it actually make? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maciekb2002 Posted November 1, 2009 Report Share Posted November 1, 2009 I see that we are both heaving fun. . Easiest way to see if you turbo gives away is. Check the bottom side of the flange on turbine side, right where downpipe connects to turbine housing, If you will see little black spot with nice crunchy oil. That is the sign that seal on turbocharger is begging to go. I have seen oil on my oil cap area too sometimes. Somebody double gasket cap and it stopped leaking I didn't try that yet but it may actually works. I was think about installing crankcase gauge to see how much pressure we getting down there. My engine has 16k on it and I drove it on reg oil for first 3k to let rings seat correctly. BTW go install Turbo tuner if you have it all ready . Check jcviggen car with 25 psi , 440 whp , f..... ridiculous. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted November 1, 2009 Author Report Share Posted November 1, 2009 new to modding a volvo and i was wondering with the newer oil pan on the older car what does that actually do and how much difference does it actually make? The oil pan makes no practical difference. I did it to update the oil filter to the cartridge style & to reduce the potential oil leak points. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.