GeraldJ Posted March 12, 2010 Report Share Posted March 12, 2010 So I am getting ready to redo my intake and install a catch can. Are you saying I should delete the PTC all together? How are you running your's Capt. Bondo? Should I just run the large hard line (replacing this with a hose) to the catch can and then a breather on it? What happens to the small vac hose going from the intake to the PTC? Should this just be capped off? And the PTC, it has a heater in it. Will having the plug just hanging out cause a CEL? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted March 12, 2010 Author Report Share Posted March 12, 2010 Missed the question about my own car - I did absolutely nothing. Just a draft tube out of the breather box to atmosphere. No catch can no noting. Worked good. This time around I am going to throw the breather box in the garbage and run lines straight from the block to a catch can vented to atmo under the car and call it a day, just because I hate the breathe rbox. Haha it's leaner with less boost? That is messed up. Does it feel much faster/slower? It's leaner 'cause I leaned the whole upper map for lower boost... It feels more sprightly, as you would expect with more timing! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlackT5 Posted March 13, 2010 Report Share Posted March 13, 2010 It's leaner 'cause I leaned the whole upper map for lower boost... It feels more sprightly, as you would expect with more timing! What are the timing values in the table compared to what you are actually seeing? Curious just how much timing is being pulled at the different bost levels. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeraldJ Posted March 14, 2010 Report Share Posted March 14, 2010 So I have been looking into this MAF problem. I dont think this would change much but it is a good idea, My link Has anyone thought about this yet, or tried it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted March 14, 2010 Author Report Share Posted March 14, 2010 What are the timing values in the table compared to what you are actually seeing? Curious just how much timing is being pulled at the different bost levels. Well, until Map Trace is fixed at the end of the month, I can't tell you for sure, since I don't know exactly where in the map I'm at. I'd have to say that I'm getting much closer to requested now. Still working on this 20psi map, have some rich areas, but overall it's pretty good. Today, I fitted the oil restrictor, removed & cleaned ALL the IC plumbing & inlet pipe. There was a fair amount of oil, and I'm sure that doesn't help with knock. If I still get oil, I'll remove the catchcan vent to PTC & vent it through a filter. Gerald's tool also came last night, so I checked my cams - they were 3º EXH 0º INT, so I advanced them to 4º & 4º. Throttle response seems to feel better. Did one quick log on the way home, weather is bad & I didn't want to take unnecessary risks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted March 14, 2010 Author Report Share Posted March 14, 2010 So I have been looking into this MAF problem. I dont think this would change much but it is a good idea, My link Has anyone thought about this yet, or tried it? hmm... my IC cold side is 2.75" - I could simply move the MAF housing as it is to that side. I wouldn't have considered it with the oil I was getting in the tracts - I'm sure oil coating the MAF is a bad thing - but if I have now resolved that, I'll consider giving this a try. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzimark Posted March 14, 2010 Report Share Posted March 14, 2010 I would have SERIOUS reservations about putting the MAF after the turbo... Did one quick log on the way home, weather is bad & I didn't want to take unnecessary risks Looks a lot better, timing isn't all over, and AFR is pretty much dead on 12 while you have the throttle wide open. How did it feel? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted March 14, 2010 Author Report Share Posted March 14, 2010 I would have SERIOUS reservations about putting the MAF after the turbo... Looks a lot better, timing isn't all over, and AFR is pretty much dead on 12 while you have the throttle wide open. How did it feel? It's feeling quite nice - but definitely not where I want it to be. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B Mac Posted March 14, 2010 Report Share Posted March 14, 2010 So I have been looking into this MAF problem. I dont think this would change much but it is a good idea, My link Has anyone thought about this yet, or tried it? Gerald, I've actually been thinking about the blow-through maf setup lately. It'd make it easier for BOV guys as well, and might help cope with smaller boost leaks....but like Hussein, I've got quite a bit of oil in my IC pipes...but it's probably because I'm beating the snot out of my 16t lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeraldJ Posted March 14, 2010 Report Share Posted March 14, 2010 (edited) Gerald, I've actually been thinking about the blow-through maf setup lately. It'd make it easier for BOV guys as well, and might help cope with smaller boost leaks....but like Hussein, I've got quite a bit of oil in my IC pipes...but it's probably because I'm beating the snot out of my 16t lol. Ill be working on an extra cold side pipe this week. My cold side is pretty much just a straight piece of 2.5" with a BOV fitting and the IAC, about 16" long. I should be able to take an extra piece of 2.75 and weld a machined plate into it that will hold the MAF sensor. I have an extra, so if it gets oil coated or fails for some reason I can just switch it back pretty easy. As far as oil in the pipes go. I am installing a catch can in the PCV this week and going to try to vent it to air before plumbing it back into the intake. It will have a vac line with check valve pulling vac on the can. Ill try to do a write up and take a lot of pics. As far as if the blow through will work or not with my tune. I do not see why it wouldnt, its the same amount of air just colder. Measuring the colder air will give me more timing if the ecu is pulling timing. I havent had a problem with the turbo pushing oil through the seals. My charge pipe is only about 30 inches over all, so its easy to keep an eye on. Edited March 14, 2010 by GeraldJ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted March 14, 2010 Author Report Share Posted March 14, 2010 Ill be working on an extra cold side pipe this week. My cold side is pretty much just a straight piece of 2.5" with a BOV fitting and the IAC, about 16" long. I should be able to take an extra piece of 2.75 and weld a machined plate into it that will hold the MAF sensor. I have an extra, so if it gets oil coated or fails for some reason I can just switch it back pretty easy. As far as oil in the pipes go. I am installing a catch can in the PCV this week and going to try to vent it to air before plumbing it back into the intake. It will have a vac line with check valve pulling vac on the can. Ill try to do a write up and take a lot of pics. As far as if the blow through will work or not with my tune. I do not see why it wouldnt, its the same amount of air just colder. Measuring the colder air will give me more timing if the ecu is pulling timing. I havent had a problem with the turbo pushing oil through the seals. My charge pipe is only about 30 inches over all, so its easy to keep an eye on. I'm not convinced about the colder part. They stress that in the link, but in reality, I'd say any intake temp is going to be over ambient, not under. With my temp probe, intake temps are higher than ambient, especially at idle. Perhaps with your W-AIC, Gerald, it will work, but with a stock A-AIC, I'm not sure sure. Istill don't have a probe for measuring the charge air hot side temp, that would be helpful to check IC efficiency. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted March 14, 2010 Author Report Share Posted March 14, 2010 Rechecked the cam gears again today, after conversing with JCViggen - it seems there was an issue with NA cam gears being possibly marked differently. Basically, if you center the cam in the gear slots, that's 0º. But.... since the base setting isn't 0º for exhaust, the reference marker for timing is actually some degrees of advance; however, the NA cam reference marker isn't the same as for a turbo, at least the gears I have. NA exh cam & gear - I just scratched a new marker in the center of the tooth gully INtake cam gear... You can see from the bolt markings that it was centered in the slots = 0º Exhaust gear from my LPT Basically stock setting is almost 5º advance on the exhaust. So, I've actually been running close to 0º EXH due to the cam reference marker difference I now have advanced the exh cam to 5º, the intake is @ 1º adv. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JCviggen Posted March 14, 2010 Report Share Posted March 14, 2010 (edited) That's great to see that confirmed thanks for the pics! Edited March 14, 2010 by JCviggen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted March 14, 2010 Author Report Share Posted March 14, 2010 That's good to see that suspicion confirmed Quite amazing the difference with the LPT gear. No non-turbo gears to look at? The one on the car is an NA gear.... I have LPT & HPT gear sets, they are the same. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JCviggen Posted March 14, 2010 Report Share Posted March 14, 2010 I was hoping you wouldn't see what I wrote until I corrected it..you're too fast :rolleyes: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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