Hussein's 1998 V70 Xr : The Force Awakens

[klr142]

What were the numbers like on Nick's car? I am guessing less than what was hoped, given that no one has been terribly forthcoming with them?

I disagree that most cars are tuned without knowing the actual timing. Most tuning systems I know, be they standalones or chip tuners like Hondata, Crome, KPro, DSMlink, etc, allow you to actually command timing values. And any knock controls are adjustable or at the very least knock events can be datalogged with the software.

Hopefully this newer TT will allow datalogging as well - if the software can do a map trace it can essentially make a datalog, it's not a major addition in that sense.

It's not a major addition but it does take a good bit of time. Hopefully it will be released in the future. As has been mentioned before the map trace doesn't actually always follow what you're actually doing so it can be very inaccurate and basing things completely off of that(if it doesn't improve somehow) is going to be wonky for sure. We'll see.

I am going to be posting up all of the dyno sheets as soon as I have more than 5 minutes to myself, been very busy lately. Nick's first run(and best, aside from a larger boost spike on the second pull) was 238whp and 26something wtrq.

JC is running around 450hp[...]

Nice!

[JCviggen]

I disagree that most cars are tuned without knowing the actual timing.

That may well be true over there. At this end only a small percentage of "tuned" cars are running standalones. The most powerful ones usually are, but those are rare

If you have a dyno you can see what works with the advance and what doesnt. The actual values are pretty academic.

[Barnsley-Bill]

I wish Adam's TT would do P2 cars :(

[bum2kev]

I wish Adam's TT would do P2 cars

swap out the car harness and it will!

[lookforjoe]

TT lets you adjust the mapping. How ME 4.3/4.4 interprets that map is still the same as ever obviously and not a flaw as you suggest. Its still the Bosch ECU. There is no way to "force" the timing unless you want to disable knock control. If he's getting the timing pulled it's happening for a reason and that needs to be adressed first. Forcing the timing and melting a piston wouldn't do him much good at this point!

Not sure at this point whether you are referring to my or Nick's car.... but, either way, I'm not sure where to go from here. Clearly, I'm getting substantial timing pull when I move to higher boost levels. I haven't created a 19/20psi map yet to see it is still OK at that level.

I'm wondering if I should consider getting new knock sensors, in case they are sending incorrect info, but the last time I had the various system functions checked with the Volvo tool, there were no errors on any sensors... I also need to make sure I'm limiting total boost below 4K, as Adam has said the system is more susceptible to knock below that threshold.

Since you are also using TT, and running the same basic EMS, there clearly is potential for running much higher boost levels. shame you can't log timing, it would be interesting to compare your requested vs actual against mine. Is your ignition system basically stock? What plug & gap do you run? What octane petrol do you have routinely available? Are you still using a Volvo exhaust manifold (EDIT - just looked at your spec list above)? I'm wondering if flow is part of the problem...

[klr142]

Your knock sensors should be fine, as they will trigger a check engine light if the engine management thinks there's something wrong. Then again, the wiring for them can deteriorate, but with the extent to which you've had your car apart I'm sure you'd have seen that by now(and it would've thrown a code). Also, supposedly over some RPM the engine stops looking at the knock sensors because the engine is "too noisy".

[fischmama]

I'm wondering if I should consider getting new knock sensors, in case they are sending incorrect info, but the last time I had the various system functions checked with the Volvo tool, there were no errors on any sensors... I also need to make sure I'm limiting total boost below 4K, as Adam has said the system is more susceptible to knock below that threshold.

I would check that you mounted them at the correct angle (looking at the front of the engine the left one at 3 and the right one at 6 o'clock). Maybe someone can borrow you some for testing, I'm sure people have some sitting around. They are not really a wear and tear item, so it seems unlikely that they are defective.

[Dominic]

cough *standalone* cough. . .with the money and time you've got invested in your past and current setup you could have one mother of a nice standalone. It would surely cure all of your problems, not that I don't admire your ambition to make this setup work and it seems like a great ecu for the dollar. Flow to the turbo just doesn't seem like it would be the problem, if there improper flow you would have poor response, limited boost, and messed up EGT's i'm sure. There must be something simple. . the 20g is capable of some serious hp, are you still lean?

[lookforjoe]

I would check that you mounted them at the correct angle (looking at the front of the engine the left one at 3 and the right one at 6 o'clock). Maybe someone can borrow you some for testing, I'm sure people have some sitting around. They are not really a wear and tear item, so it seems unlikely that they are defective.

Was at the dealer today - no codes, and the service manager emphasized that a defective knock sensor will set an immediate code, so he didn't see that as being my issue.

EDIT: I'll be repositioning the right sensor tomorrow!

cough *standalone* cough. . .with the money and time you've got invested in your past and current setup you could have one mother of a nice standalone. It would surely cure all of your problems, not that I don't admire your ambition to make this setup work and it seems like a great ecu for the dollar. Flow to the turbo just doesn't seem like it would be the problem, if there improper flow you would have poor response, limited boost, and messed up EGT's i'm sure. There must be something simple. . the 20g is capable of some serious hp, are you still lean?

No more lean conditions, TT cured that issue

If I didn't use this car as my DD, I would probably have gone standalone, NIRAld have been the most likely option.

[flaco]

Orientation is for wiring purposes only.

Have not looked at the ecu you mentioned, but I have run megasquirts on daily drivers(not volvos) all the time.

Since the orlando meeting is coming, seems I got an excuse to dedicate more time to my ms'ed s70 DD.

[joergv70t5]

Hi,

you can use something like this:

http://www.viatrack.ca/

to display your Knocksignal with the Innovate tool.

If you tight your knocksensor with the wrong torque, then they will not work correct.

A worn KnockSensor will not allways set a code, it can also detect knock where nothing knocks.

regards joerg

[lookforjoe]

Hi,

you can use something like this:

http://www.viatrack.ca/

to display your Knocksignal with the Innovate tool.

If you tight your knocksensor with the wrong torque, then they will not work correct.

A worn KnockSensor will not allways set a code, it can also detect knock where nothing knocks.

regards joerg

Thanks for the link, Joerg!

I emailed them to confirm that the kit splits the stock dual sensor setup.

[JCviggen]

Yes it basically T's off from a sensor. But if you want to monitor both sensors, you need 2 kits.

[lookforjoe]

Yes it basically T's off from a sensor. But if you want to monitor both sensors, you need 2 kits.

Hmmm... he says it won't work with mine -

"I do not have Y adapter for these three pin sensors. Since you are using

original ICU you cannot connect Both sensors to Knocksense MS because that

would confuse your ICU. You would have to tap into one of the sensors where

the harness enters the ICU."

So, it would be a bit more work.

Think I might try a homemade det can first, just to see if I'm actually getting knock.

[lookforjoe]

nice work! just put a switch in the car so you can switch between the 2...or 3.

Decided this would be a good idea, thanks for the suggestion!

Cluster connector A pin 24 (+) pin 25 (-)

Dash Connector 24/13c pin 11 (+) pin 12 (-)

Cold Side sensor Y-Gy -> Y-Bn (-)

P-Bn -> Bl/Sb (+)

Hot Side sensor Y -> Bn (-)

Y-Wh -> Bl/Sb (+)

Filter Box sensor Y-Wh -> Y-Sb (-)

R -> Bl-Sb (+)

Ambient sensor Gn-Sb -> Gn/Sb (-)

Gr-Sb -> Sb (+)

Gauge ground switched between sensors via INFO switch.

Switch Pin#

Pin 3 = Pos 2 C - G coldside reading

Pin 4 = Pos 4 A - G Hotside reading

Pin 6 = Pos 6 B - G Airbox reading

Hot Side

Cold Side

Air Box

Ambient

Ran an extra 5-wire harness while I was at it - I've no more room through the stock accessory tunnel, so I went through the main fuse box

Didn't have time to finish the cabin wiring to the switch.

I'm going to use a spare INFO switch for now - I've determined that it can only switch between 3 positions, so I'll need something else to get all four sensors readout. Ambient can wait.

So far, I've found that charge side temps are about 5ºF over intake @ partial throttle/cruise, and intake temp drops to a greater degree over hot side the wider the throttle position/boost level. Temp variance between cold side & intake w/closed throttle can vary as much as 30ºF, that was with ambient temps in the 50's. Didn't really get too scientific or pushy with it (No WOT) - this was all on the drive to Boston & Vermont with the Mrs. :rolleyes: